DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 10.00 BGN /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Candyfloss

Knitted DROPS poncho in garter st with fan edge in ”Kid-Silk”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-29
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-108
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-100-100-100 g colour no 03, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 10.00 BGN /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 299 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 11) = 27.2. I.e. in this example K approx. every 26th and 27th st tog.

KNITTING TIP:
If you want to work the ridges back and forth on circular needle after A.1, divide the piece at beg of round and work ridges back and forth with K from RS and K from WS. Then sew piece tog edge to edge with one stitch in every st.
----------------------------------------------------------

PONCHO:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.

LOOSELY cast on 276-299-322-345-368-391 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 round. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 repetitions of 23 sts). When A.1 has been worked 2 times vertically, piece measures approx. 10 cm. Continue in garter st - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm, dec 12-11-10-25-8-11 st evenly - READ DECREASE TIP (dec on a round with K) = 264-288-312-320-360-380 sts on needle. When piece 20-21-22-24-25-27 cm, dec 22-24-26-32-36-38 sts evenly (in Size S + M + L K every 11th and 12th st tog and in Size XL + XXL + XXXL K every 9th and 10th st tog) = 242-264-286-288-324-342 sts. Repeat this dec every 4 cm a total of 3 times - NOTE: For every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog = 198-216-234-224-252-266 sts. When piece measures 30-31-32-34-35-37 cm, dec 32-42-52-36-56-64 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 166-174-182-188-196-202 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 46-48-
50-52-54-56 cm and LOOSELY cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.08.2019
New yarn amount in size S and XL.
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-75-100-100-100 g colour no 03, light pink

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 2 YOs between 2 sts, on next round drop one YO off the needle and P the other YO

symbols = P 2 tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 167-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Mela wrote:

Potrei sapere le taglie S/M a quanti cm. Di circonferenza corrispondono? Inoltre, lavorando a legaccio in tondo, non si crea uno “scalino” passando al giro successivo? Come si puo’ ovviare a questo problema? Grazie

13.04.2022 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mela, può trovare lo schema con le misure in fondo alla pagina. Buon lavoro!

16.04.2022 - 19:30

country flag Tiziana wrote:

Buongiorno, posso lavorare il poncho a maglia rasata invece che a punto legaccio? Troverei qualche difficoltà nel seguire poi lo schema e le diminuzioni? Grazie

13.09.2021 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Tiziana, se lavora a legaccio, non ci sarà continuità tra il motivo e il resto del poncho. Buon lavoro!

14.09.2021 - 22:04

country flag Anne-Laure wrote:

Bonjour, dois-je monter 2 mailles supplémentaires (pour la bordure du tricot) lorsque je divise l'ouvrage en 2 pour tricoter le point mousse en allers/retours? Merci d'avance pour votre aide!

14.12.2020 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anne-Laure, vous voulez tricoter le point mousse en allers et retours et faire une couture? Si vous assemblez ensuite ainsi, vous ne devriez pas avoir besoin de monter de mailles lisières en plus. Bon tricot!

14.12.2020 - 13:37

country flag Marleen Coemans wrote:

Vraag over het minderen patroon DROPS 167-29. Er staat vermeld “brei elke naald met minderingen 1 steek minder voordat u 2 steken recht samen breit”. Die 1 steek minder breien, bedoelen ze daar mee dat je die steek zonder te breien op de rechternaald zet en dan twee steken samen breit?

18.08.2019 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marleen,

Nee er wordt mee bedoelt dat het aantal steken wat je breit voordat je 2 steken samen breit, telkens 1 minder is.

08.09.2019 - 18:16

country flag Ola wrote:

I made it in S size and 2 balls of the yarn are definitely not enough. I used almost whole 3. And the measures needed were correct, as in the pattern.

08.08.2019 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Olu! W 3 pierwszych rozmiarach potrzebujesz 75 g włóczki, Kid-Silk jest sprzedawana w motkach po 25 g, potrzeba ich więc 3. Jeśli będziesz w przyszłości miała pytania, proszę zaznacz w formularzu PYTANIE, a nie KOMENTARZ, wtedy odpowiemy w przeciągu 2-3 dni. A propos, czy już zagłosowałaś na nową kolekcję DROPS Jesień/Zima, zapraszamy serdecznie!

07.06.2020 - 22:16

country flag Frau Bender wrote:

I made this pattern in size small and 2 balls of kid silk is definitely not enough. You will need 3. I made sure my tension was correct. Please in future patterns post yarn requirements more conservatively. It looks like there were others who posted that the yarn requirement stated was not enough. It really is unfortunate when you follow a pattern and in the end you do not have enough yarn to complete it.

21.03.2019 - 12:56

country flag Jaana wrote:

En fråga angående mönstret A1. Om man stickar ihop två maskor (varv 3) avigt och sedan på varv 4 skall det stickas två över dem igen, måste jag då inte lägga upp en maska (jag har ju precis stickat ihop två på föregående varv) över dem igen? Det syns tyvärr inte på videon, i alla fall hinner jag inte se... tacksam för svar. Jaana

03.08.2017 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Du ökar maskor (med omslag) på samma varv som du gör minskningarna, så då förblir maskantalet hela tiden detsamma. Bara sticka enligt diagrammet så blir det riktigt.

08.08.2017 - 13:42

country flag Danielle wrote:

Bonjour, je réalise ce modèle en taille XL avec 75 gr de laine comme indiqué et je n'aurai pas assez. J'arrive au bout de ma dernière pelote et je dois encore tricoter environ 15 cm. Cela fait déjà la 2ème fois que cela m'arrive en suivant vos explications. C'est très regrettable !

14.02.2017 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Danielle, aviez-vous bien l'échantillon indiqué de 23 m x 45 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm en Kid-Silk, et avez-vous bien gardé cette même tension pendant la réalisation de votre ouvrage? Si vous utilisez une autre laine que Kid-Silk, avez-vous bien calculé le métrage nécessaire?

15.02.2017 - 09:44

country flag Claudia Carolina wrote:

Spett.le Drops, grazie mille per i favolosi modelli. Ricevo in dono per Natale 250 gr. di Flora; sono sufficienti per fare questo modello? Non è che il Kid Silk rende tantissimo di più per essere più sottile? Grazie infinite. Claudia

16.12.2016 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia Carolina. Dovrebbero essere sufficienti. 250 Gr di Flora corrispondono a 210 m × 5 gomitoli= 1050 m di filato. Per il poncho vengono richiesti nella taglia più grande 200 m × 4 gomitoli = 800 m. Il capo risulterà però più pesante. Buon lavoro!

16.12.2016 - 20:26

country flag Charlene Melihercik wrote:

Please explain the instructions for the decreases. "For every round with dec work 1 st less before working 2 sts tog " I have just knit 2 tog for every decrease.. Thank you.

21.08.2016 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Melihercik, First dec is worked in Size S + M + L K every 11th and 12th st tog and in Size XL + XXL + XXXL K every 9th and 10th st tog - on next dec in size S + M + L K every 10th and 11th st tog and in size XL + XXL + XXXL K every 8th and 9th st tog, ie you will work 1 st less between each K2 tog. Happy knitting!

22.08.2016 - 09:17