DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Seashore Bliss Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Cotton Light”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 169-16
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-057
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color no 02, white

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for correct size. Diagram A.9 show how to start and end when working in the round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with ch 3, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
At beg of every sc round, replace first sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

TIP ARMHOLE:
Size S, M and XL: In the last repeat of A.2 before marker 1 and marker 3 (= beginning of armhole), replace the last chain stitch with a double crochet in the last stitch of the same repeat on previous row.

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down. NOTE: It is important to keep the crochet gauge vertically so that the measurements on yoke will be correct.

YOKE:
Work 123-123-134-134-138-140 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Light. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 0-0-4-4-1-3 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 104-104-114-114-117-119 dc.

Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and inc 19-19-21-21-30-40 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 123-123-135-135-147-159 dc. Work next row and insert 8 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.1 (= 5-5-8-8-5-8 sts), repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 dc (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width), insert 1st marker, A.4 over the first 4 dc, insert 2nd marker, A.2 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in width), insert 3rd marker, A.4 over the next 4 dc, insert 4th marker, work A.2 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-54 dc (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width), insert 5th marker, A.4 over the next 4 dc, insert 6th marker, A.2 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in width), insert 7th marker, A.4 over the next 4 dc, insert 8th marker, A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 dc (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width), finish with A.3 (= 6-6-9-9-6-9 dc). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
On 5th row (row with dc from RS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker: Inc 6-6 dc.
12-12 dc have been inc in total on row (= 18-18 dc between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker). Repeat A.2 3-3 times between 2nd and 3rd marker and between 6th and 7th marker:

ALL SIZES:
On 6th row (row with dc from WS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Before 8th marker: Inc 0-3-3-3-6-6 dc (= 24-27-30-30-36-39 dc before 8th marker).
Between 7th and 6th marker and 3rd and 2nd marker: Inc 0-0-6-6-6-6 dc (= 12-12-18-18-24-24 dc between these markers).
Between 5th and 4th marker: Inc 0-6-6-6-12-12 dc (= 36-42-48-48-60-66 dc between each of these markers).
After 1st marker: Inc 0-3-3-3-6-6 dc (= 23-26-29-29-35-38 dc after 1st marker). There are now 179-191-215-215-251-263 dc in total on row.

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 5-5-8-8-5-8 dc as before, A.5 over the next 0-3-3-3-0-0 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-30-30 dc (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-18-18-24-24 dc (= 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 36-42-48-48-60-66 dc (= 6-7-8-8-10-11 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-18-18-24-24 dc (= 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-30-30 dc as before (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in width), A.5 over the next 0-3-3-3-0-0 dc, finish with A.3 over the last 6-6-9-9-6-9 dc as before.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
On 8th row (row with dc from WS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Before 8th marker: Inc 3-3-3 dc (= 33-39-42 dc before 8th marker).
Between 4th and 5th marker: Inc 6-6-6 dc (= 54-66-72 dc between 4th and 5th marker).
After 1st marker: Inc 3-3-3 dc (= 32-38-41 dc after 1st marker).
Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 8-5-8 dc as before, A.5 over the next 0-3-3 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 24-30-30 dc (= 4-5-5 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-24-24 dc (= 3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 54-66-72 dc (= 9-11-12 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-24-24 dc (= 3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 24-30-30 dc as before (= 4-5-5 times in width), A.5 over the next 0-3-3 dc, finish with A.3 over the first 9-6-9 dc as before.

ALL SIZES:
On last row in A.4 (= from WS) insert 1 new marker in the middle of every A.4 (i.e. 18 dc on each side of marker in A.4 = 4 markers). Remove the old markers (= 4 markers remain in piece). Sts between markers are for sleeves (= 48-48-54-54-60-60 dc on each sleeve). When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 251-263-287-299-335-347 dc on row. Yoke is now done in size S.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work next row from RS as follows: Work A.6 over the first 8-5-8-8-5 dc, continue with A.2 over the next 18-24-24-30-36 dc (= 3-4-4-5-6 times in width), * A.7 over the next 36 dc (= 2 times in width, marker is in the middle of these repetitions), A.2 over the next 12-18-18-24-24 dc (= 2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.7 over the next 36 dc (= 2 times in width, marker is in the middle of these repetitions) *, A.2 over the next 42-48-54-66-72 dc as before, repeat from *-*, A.2 over the next 18-24-24-30-36 dc (= 3-4-4-5-6 times in width), finish with A.8 over the last 9-6-9-9-6 dc. Work 1-2-3-4-4 rows of A.7.

ALL SIZES:
Piece now measures 17-18-19-20-21-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8"-8 1/4"-8 1/4" vertically.

BODY:
SIZE M-XL:
Work as follows from WS: Work A.8 as before, repeat A.2a (see arrow on where pattern beg in the different sizes) 6-7 times in total in width until 1st marker (= right front piece), work 8-10 ch, skip sts between 1st and 2nd marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 13-15 times in total in width until next marker (= back piece), work 8-10 ch, skip sts between 3rd and 4th marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 6-7 times in total in width, finish with A.6. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

SIZE S-L-XXL-XXXL:
Work as follows from RS: Work A.6, repeat A.2a (see arrow on where pattern beg in the different sizes) 6-7-8-9 times in total in width until 1st marker (= left front piece), work 8-8-10-10 ch, skip sts between 1st and 2nd marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 12-14-17-18 times in total in width until 3rd marker (= back piece), work 8-8-10-10 ch, skip sts between 3rd and 4th marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 6-7-8-9 times in total in width, finish with A.8. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

SIZE S-M-L-XL:
Work A.6/A.2a/A.8 as before, work the 8-8-8-10 sts under each sleeve as 1st st in A.6. On last row in A.6 and A.8 (row with dc) dec 4-4-4-2 dc evenly on entire row – READ DECREASE TIP = 167-179-191-209 dc. When A.6 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows from WS: Work A.3a over the first 6-6-9-9 dc, repeat A.2a 26-28-29-32 times in total in width, finish with A.1a over the last 5-5-8-8 dc.

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
Work from WS: A.3a over the first 6-9 dc, repeat A.2a 37-38 times in total AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-2 dc evenly – READ DECREASE TIP, finish with A.1a over the last 5-8 dc = 233-245 dc.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat A.1a to A.3a vertically. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', adjust so that next row is with dc, dec 6 dc evenly = 161-173-185-203-227-239 dc. Now repeat A.2a 25-27-28-31-36-37 times in width.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
Repeat dec when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from marker = 197-221-233 dc. Now repeat A.2a 30-35-36 times in width.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' from marker – adjust so that next row is with dc, inc 6 dc evenly. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-2½-2-2-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" 3-3-4-6-6-6 more times = 185-197-215-239-263-275 dc. Repeat A.2a 1 more in width on every inc. When all inc are done, repeat A.2a 29-31-33-37-42-43 times in width. Work until piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'' from marker, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
SIZE S:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under armhole as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 sc). Then work 1 sc in each of the next ch 4, work A.7 over the next 18 dc, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 2 times in total in width, work A.7 over the next 18 dc, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7. When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 56 dc on last round.

SIZE M-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8-10-10-10 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-6-6 ch, work A.7 as before, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 2-3-4-4 times in total in width as before, work A.7, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8-10-10-10 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7.

When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 56-64-70-70 dc on last round.

SIZE L:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 sc). Then work 1 sc in each of the next ch 4, work A.7 as before, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 3 times in total in width as before, work A.7, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7.
When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 62 dc on last round.

ALL SIZES:
= 56-56-62-64-70-70 dc. Repeat A.2a 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total in width while AT THE SAME TIME on first round with dc dec 2-2-2-4-4-4 dc evenly = 54-54-60-60-66-66 dc. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', adjust so that next round is with dc, dec 6 dc evenly = 48-48-54-54-60-60 dc. Then repeat A.2a 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in width. When piece measures 23 cm / 9'', adjust to finish nicely according to pattern, fasten off. Work another sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck. Beg mid front. Work * 1 sc in first dc, ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Make sure to avoid a tight neck edge, adjust to finish with 1 sc in last dc on row. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, fasten the top button approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' from neck edge, fasten the remaining buttons approx. 8-9-9-8-8-9 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-3"-3"-3½" apart. Button between 2 dc on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.06.2018
Armhole tip has been added

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st
symbols = sc between 2 dc
symbols = sc around ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = not not work this row, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in st
symbols = first row in diagram
symbols = sl st
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (165)

country flag Cecilia wrote:

La realizzazione del modello è difficile in quanto le spiegazioni non sono chiare

06.05.2021 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cecilia, a quale punto del modello sta facendo riferimento? Buon lavoro!

06.05.2021 - 21:17

country flag Elsa wrote:

Hallo, was bedeutet das: je 1 Stb in die nächsten 0-0-4-4-1-3 Lm? In welche Luftmasche muss ich die Stäbchen häkeln, in die Nullte? Ich bitte um eine kleine Erklärung. Herzlichen Dank für die Hilfe! VG Elsa

22.04.2021 - 23:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elsa, in die 2 ersten Grössen häkeln Sie hier das nicht, nur in die anderen Grössen sollen Sie diese Stäbchen häkeln, dh in beiden ersten 2 Grössen häkeln Sie zuerst 1 Stäbchen in die 4. Lm (= 2 Stb) dann die ganze Runde: * 1 Lm überspringen, je 1 Stb in die nächsten 6 Lm *, von *-* wdh = 104-104 Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

23.04.2021 - 08:06

country flag Atbin wrote:

Angaben der Maschenprobe und Anleitung differieren bei Anleitung des Modells (18x9 ) und der Wolle ,die man kaufen kann (28x21) erheblich. Bitte Angabe präzisieren. Danke

25.03.2021 - 01:56

DROPS Design answered:

Siehe vorrige Antwort :) Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.03.2021 - 08:46

country flag Irene Atbin wrote:

Bei dieser Anleitung wird eine Machenprobe von 18 Stäbchen und 9 Reihen angegeben bei Nadelstärke 4! In der Angabe der Wolle, die man dafür kaufen kann, wird für 10 cm aber 28 Stäbchen und 21 Reihen angegeben . Wie passt das zusammen? Danke für die Aufklärung

25.03.2021 - 01:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Atbin, für dieses Modell sollen Sie 18 Stb x 9 R = 10 x 10 cm, die Häkelnadelgröße ist nur als Information gegeben, wenn Sie fester oder eher locker häkeln, dann sollen Sie entweder eine grössere oder eine kleinere Häkelnadel - mehr lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.03.2021 - 08:45

country flag Britta Nielsen wrote:

Har købt dette kit hos Rito.dk og nu sidder jeg som et stort spørgsmålstegn, for jeg kan simpelthen ikke finde ud af at få begyndt. Jeg er sikker på at det er et nem opgave hvis man bare finder ud af starten. mønstret ser ret ens ud resten af vejen. Er der nogen mulighed for at få hjælp til en nybegynder som jeg?! jeg kan finde ud af at hækle lapper efter mønster. Eneste erfaring.

17.06.2020 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Britta. Du begynner med å hekle en luftmaskerad, for at denne raden ikke skal stramme hekles det deretter en rad (med staver) der det hoppes over ca hver 6. maske. Nå har du fått en kant som ikke strammer, men som også har hold i seg. Så hekles det en rad der det økes maske jevnt fordelt. Så begynner du med diagrammene, se i oppskriften hvilke diagram. Se gjerne våre hjelpevideo til denne oppskriften. Håper dette kan hjelpe deg med å begynne. God Fornøyelse!

22.06.2020 - 10:17

country flag Ida Margrethe Larsen wrote:

Jeg er færdig med A4 i højden, men jeg kan ikke få næste række til at passe i str m. Jeg har 263 masker. I næste række skal jeg hækle 5+24+36+18+36+48+36+18+36+24+6+2=289 masker. Hvor læser jeg opskriften forkert?

21.04.2020 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ida, det er den første størrelse du skal følge (S er afsluttet) så (M=første tal) det er 8+18+36+12 osv :)

22.04.2020 - 11:20

country flag Vandana wrote:

Hi, I am glad to inform you that I finished 169/16jacket with your great help. Thank you for prompt responses from you. It was very nice of you. Now I want to send picture of the same to show you. How to go about it ...please let me know. I have increased length of the jacket as my friend is tall. A BIG THANK YOU TO YOU AT DROPS DESIGNS.

05.03.2020 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vandana, thank you very much for your message :) You can share your picture in our DROPS Workshop or send us a link for the #dropsfan gallery :)

05.03.2020 - 17:02

country flag Vandana wrote:

263 = A.1 (=5 sts), A.5 (= 3 sts), A.2 (= 3 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts) A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 18 sts), A.5 (= 3 sts), A.3 (= 6 sts). Happy crocheting! This is not 263.....oops

28.02.2020 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vandana, you are right :D here we are: A.1 (= 5 sts), A.5 (= 3 sts), A.2 (= 18 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 42 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 18 sts), A.2 (= 3 sts), A.3 (= 6 sts), ie = 5+3+18+36+12+36+42+36+12+36+18+3+6= 26 3 sts - but this is the last row in A.4, when there are 36 sts on last row (you will have less stitches in each A.4 before that row). Happy crocheting!

28.02.2020 - 13:20

country flag Vandana wrote:

I am on 11th row...ie 3dc together in one ch. I hv 227 dc altogether. Now where to increase to make it 263 sts?? which row I should inc. 48 for sleeves? Thank you for all your great help.

28.02.2020 - 06:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vandana, work the diagrams as before (from RS: A.1, A.5, A.2, A.4, A., A.4, A.2, A.4, A.2 A.4, A.2 A.5, A.3), on row 11 in A.4 you should have 9 groups of 3 dc (US-English), and on last row in A.4 you should have 36 dc (US-English) - and then your total number of stitches on this row should be 263 = A.1 (=5 sts), A.5 (= 3 sts), A.2 (= 3 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts), A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 12 sts) A.4 (= 36 sts), A.2 (= 18 sts), A.5 (= 3 sts), A.3 (= 6 sts). Happy crocheting!

28.02.2020 - 08:59

country flag Vandana wrote:

How many rows are there in this pattern? i am not getting 18 cms yoke.Rows are not marked or numbered....so I m confused. I m making size M

26.02.2020 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vandana, Do you have correct tension in height as well as in width? You work first 1 row tr (UK-English), then 14 rows (= one time A.4 in height) then 2 rows (with A.6 and A.7 ) = 17 rows, work should mesure 18 cm in size M.Happy crocheting!

27.02.2020 - 09:00