DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Seashore Bliss Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Cotton Light”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 169-16
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-057
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour no 02, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for correct size. Diagram A.9 show how to start and end when working in the round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
At beg of every dc round, replace first dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 tr by working 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

TIP ARMHOLE:
Size S, M and XL: In the last repeat of A.2 before marker 1 and marker 3 (= beginning of armhole), replace the last chain stitch with a treble crochet in the last stitch of the same repeat on previous row.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down. NOTE: It is important to keep the crochet tension vertically so that the measurements on yoke will be correct.

YOKE:
Work 123-123-134-134-138-140 ch on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Light. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 tr in each of the next 0-0-4-4-1-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 104-104-114-114-117-119 tr.

Work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr and inc 19-19-21-21-30-40 tr evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 123-123-135-135-147-159 tr. Work next row and insert 8 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.1 (= 5-5-8-8-5-8 sts), repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 tr (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width), insert 1st marker, A.4 over the first 4 tr, insert 2nd marker, A.2 over the next 12 tr (= 2 times in width), insert 3rd marker, A.4 over the next 4 tr, insert 4th marker, work A.2 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-54 tr (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width), insert 5th marker, A.4 over the next 4 tr, insert 6th marker, A.2 over the next 12 tr (= 2 times in width), insert 7th marker, A.4 over the next 4 tr, insert 8th marker, A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-24-24 tr (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width), finish with A.3 (= 6-6-9-9-6-9 tr). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
On 5th row (row with tr from RS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker: Inc 6-6 tr.
12-12 tr have been inc in total on row (= 18-18 tr between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker). Repeat A.2 3-3 times between 2nd and 3rd marker and between 6th and 7th marker:

ALL SIZES:
On 6th row (row with tr from WS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Before 8th marker: Inc 0-3-3-3-6-6 tr (= 24-27-30-30-36-39 tr before 8th marker).
Between 7th and 6th marker and 3rd and 2nd marker: Inc 0-0-6-6-6-6 tr (= 12-12-18-18-24-24 tr between these markers).
Between 5th and 4th marker: Inc 0-6-6-6-12-12 tr (= 36-42-48-48-60-66 tr between each of these markers).
After 1st marker: Inc 0-3-3-3-6-6 tr (= 23-26-29-29-35-38 tr after 1st marker). There are now 179-191-215-215-251-263 tr in total on row.

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 5-5-8-8-5-8 tr as before, A.5 over the next 0-3-3-3-0-0 tr, repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-30-30 tr (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-18-18-24-24 tr (= 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 36-42-48-48-60-66 tr (= 6-7-8-8-10-11 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-18-18-24-24 tr (= 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-18-18-18-30-30 tr as before (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in width), A.5 over the next 0-3-3-3-0-0 tr, finish with A.3 over the last 6-6-9-9-6-9 tr as before.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
On 8th row (row with tr from WS) in A.2 inc evenly as follows:
Before 8th marker: Inc 3-3-3 tr (= 33-39-42 tr before 8th marker).
Between 4th and 5th marker: Inc 6-6-6 tr (= 54-66-72 tr between 4th and 5th marker).
After 1st marker: Inc 3-3-3 tr (= 32-38-41 tr after 1st marker).
Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 8-5-8 tr as before, A.5 over the next 0-3-3 tr, repeat A.2 over the next 24-30-30 tr (= 4-5-5 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-24-24 tr (= 3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 54-66-72 tr (= 9-11-12 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 18-24-24 tr (= 3-4-4 times in width), A.4 as before, repeat A.2 over the next 24-30-30 tr as before (= 4-5-5 times in width), A.5 over the next 0-3-3 tr, finish with A.3 over the first 9-6-9 tr as before.

ALL SIZES:
On last row in A.4 (= from WS) insert 1 new marker in the middle of every A.4 (i.e. 18 tr on each side of marker in A.4 = 4 markers). Remove the old markers (= 4 markers remain in piece). Sts between markers are for sleeves (= 48-48-54-54-60-60 tr on each sleeve). When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 251-263-287-299-335-347 tr on row. Yoke is now done in size S.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work next row from RS as follows: Work A.6 over the first 8-5-8-8-5 tr, continue with A.2 over the next 18-24-24-30-36 tr (= 3-4-4-5-6 times in width), * A.7 over the next 36 tr (= 2 times in width, marker is in the middle of these repetitions), A.2 over the next 12-18-18-24-24 tr (= 2-3-3-4-4 times in width), A.7 over the next 36 tr (= 2 times in width, marker is in the middle of these repetitions) *, A.2 over the next 42-48-54-66-72 tr as before, repeat from *-*, A.2 over the next 18-24-24-30-36 tr (= 3-4-4-5-6 times in width), finish with A.8 over the last 9-6-9-9-6 tr. Work 1-2-3-4-4 rows of A.7

ALL SIZES:
Piece now measures 17-18-19-20-21-21 cm vertically.

BODY:
SIZE M-XL:
Work as follows from WS: Work A.8 as before, repeat A.2a (see arrow on where pattern beg in the different sizes) 6-7 times in total in width until 1st marker (= right front piece) - SEE ARMHOLE TIP, work 8-10 ch, skip sts between 1st and 2nd marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 13-15 times in total in width until next marker (= back piece), work 8-10 ch, skip sts between 3rd and 4th marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 6-7 times in total in width, finish with A.6. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

SIZE S-L-XXL-XXXL:
Work as follows from RS: Work A.6, repeat A.2a (see arrow on where pattern beg in the different sizes) 6-7-8-9 times in total in width until 1st marker (= left front piece) - SEE ARMHOLE TIP, work 8-8-10-10 ch, skip sts between 1st and 2nd marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 12-14-17-18 times in total in width until 3rd marker (= back piece), work 8-8-10-10 ch, skip sts between 3rd and 4th marker (= sleeve), work A.2a 6-7-8-9 times in total in width, finish with A.8. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

SIZE S-M-L-XL:
Work A.6/A.2a/A.8 as before, work the 8-8-8-10 sts under each sleeve as 1st st in A.6. On last row in A.6 and A.8 (row with tr) dec 4-4-4-2 tr evenly on entire row – READ DECREASE TIP = 167-179-191-209 tr. When A.6 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows from WS: Work A.3a over the first 6-6-9-9 tr, repeat A.2a 26-28-29-32 times in total in width, finish with A.1a over the last 5-5-8-8 tr.

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
Work from WS: A.3a over the first 6-9 tr, repeat A.2a 37-38 times in total AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-2 tr evenly – READ DECREASE TIP, finish with A.1a over the last 5-8 tr = 233-245 tr.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat A.1a to A.3a vertically. When piece measures 12 cm, adjust so that next row is with tr, dec 6 tr evenly = 161-173-185-203-227-239 tr. Now repeat A.2a 25-27-28-31-36-37 times in width.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
Repeat dec when piece measures 16 cm from marker = 197-221-233 tr. Now repeat A.2a 30-35-36 times in width.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm from marker – adjust so that next row is with tr, inc 6 tr evenly. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-2½-2-2-2 cm 3-3-4-6-6-6 more times = 185-197-215-239-263-275 tr. Repeat A.2a 1 more in width on every inc. When all inc are done, repeat A.2a 29-31-33-37-42-43 times in width. Work until piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm from marker, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
SIZE S:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under armhole as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, work A.7 over the next 18 tr, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 2 times in total in width, work A.7 over the next 18 tr, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7. When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 56 tr on last round.

SIZE M-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8-10-10-10 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr). Then work 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-6-6 ch, work A.7 as before, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 2-3-4-4 times in total in width as before, work A.7, finish with 1 tr in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8-10-10-10 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7.

When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 56-64-70-70 tr on last round.

SIZE L:
Worked in the round. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, work A.7 as before, work A.2a (adjust pattern according to A.7) 3 times in total in width as before, work A.7, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch. Work the 8 sts under sleeve as 1st st in A.7.
When A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 62 tr on last round.

ALL SIZES:
= 56-56-62-64-70-70 tr. Repeat A.2a 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total in width while AT THE SAME TIME on first round with tr dec 2-2-2-4-4-4 tr evenly = 54-54-60-60-66-66 tr. When piece measures 10 cm, adjust so that next round is with tr, dec 6 tr evenly = 48-48-54-54-60-60 tr. Then repeat A.2a 8-8-9-9-10-10 times in width. When piece measures 23 cm, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern, fasten off. Work another sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck. Beg mid front. Work * 1 dc in first tr, 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Make sure to avoid a tight neck edge, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr on row. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, fasten the top button approx. 2 cm from neck edge, fasten the remaining buttons approx. 8-9-9-8-8-9 cm apart. Button between 2 tr on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.06.2018
Armhole tip has been added

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc between 2 tr
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = tr in st
symbols = tr around ch
symbols = not not work this row, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in st
symbols = first row in diagram
symbols = sl st
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (165)

country flag Birgit Gras wrote:

Ich hätte mal eine Frage. Was bedeutet es 1 Stäbchen In 0 0 4 1 3 LM? ,

07.02.2024 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gras, jede Nummer/Zahl gilt für die Größe in der gleichen Reihenfolge wie beim Kopfteil und genausowie bei der Luftmaschenanzahl am Anfang, dh in die 2 ersten Größen häkeln Sie diese Stäbchen nicht, in die 3. + 4. Größe häkeln Sie je 1 Stäbchen in die nächsten 4 Lm, in die 5. Größe je 1 Stäbchen in die nächste Lm und in die letzte Größe je 1 Stäbchen in die nächsten 3 Lm. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.02.2024 - 08:34

country flag Lindie wrote:

På række 6 skal der tages ud fra 135 til 215 (L) men det stemmer ikke med vejledningen til udtagning…3+6+6+6+3. Det skal blive udtagning på 80 st. Jeg forstår det ikke

03.02.2024 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lindi. Du har 135 masker og så hekler du etter diagrammene (1. -5. rad) og om du ser på diagram A.4 så økes det ganske mange masker før du kommer til 6. rad (A.4 startet med 4 masker, men når du er ferdig med 5. rad har A.4 økt med 9 masker, altså A.4 består nå av 13 masker). Slik hekles 6. rad: A.1 (8) + A.2 (18+3) + A.4 (18) + A.2 (12+6) + A.4 (18) + A.2 (42+6) + A.4 (18) + A.2 (12+6) + A.4 (18) + A.2 (18+3) + A.9 (9) = 215 masker. mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 11:53

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hej :-) Jeg er igang med at forsøge at hækle 169-16 cardigan, desværre har jeg rigtig svært ved at forstå diagrammer. Har i opskriften med tekst frem for diagrammer? På forhånd tak - Camilla

12.07.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Camilla. Nei det har vi ikke. Men ta en titt under TIPS & HJÆLP / DROPS Lektioner / Læs en opskrift / Hvordan læses hæklediagrammer? Kanskje det kan være til hjelp? mvh DROPS Design

24.07.2023 - 14:40

country flag Kamila wrote:

Dziękuję za odpowiedź. Czyli to będzie pas ze słupków od pachy aż do samego dołu swetra?

05.05.2023 - 13:52

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kamilo, nie, później będziesz powtarzać schematy A.2a także pod rękawami. Dalej przerabiaj zgodnie z opisem. Pozdrawiam!

05.05.2023 - 16:25

country flag Kamila wrote:

Dzień dobry, Zrobiłam 8 oczek łańcuszka pod rękaw (w rozmiarze M) i dokończyłam rząd. Jakimi oczkami przerobić te 8 oczek łańcuszka w kolejnych rzędach? Jak połączyć ścieg fantazyjny z kolejnych rzędów z tym łańcuszkiem? Schemat mówi: "ROZMIARY S-M-L-XL: Przer. schematy A.6/A.2a/A.8 jak wcześniej," Ale nie rozumiem jak dalej wg opisu postąpić z łańcuszkiem. Proszę o podpowiedź.

03.05.2023 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kamilo, teraz należy przerobić 8-8-8-10 oczek pod każdym rękawem jak 1-sze oczko schematu A.6 czyli przerabiasz słupki w miejscu tych oczek. Pozdrawiamy!

05.05.2023 - 09:05

country flag Monique wrote:

Wat jammer dat het mij niet lukt, ik vind het erg verwarrend. Lastig dat je en de beschrijving moet lezen en het telpatroon. En al die maten maakt het ook niet duidelijker. Waarom niet 6 beschrijvingen maken, dan kies je je maat, digitaal tijdperk tenslotte, elke toer op een nieuwe regel en duidelijk toernummer erbij zou ook helpen. Ik zoek een ander patroon.

27.11.2022 - 17:14

country flag Franziska wrote:

Hallo Ich bin gerade bei Reihe 8 und bin etwas verwirrt ,man soll in größe XL vor den ersten Markierer 3 zunehmen ,jedoch ist es laut diagramm ein muster mit luftmaschen in die gehäkelt werden soll, ich komme wen ich 3 zunehme nicht auf 33 stäbchen am Ende ,was mach ich womöglich falsch?

02.08.2022 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Franziska, die 8. Reihe in A.2 ist eine Rückreihe (= 3 Stäbchen um die Luftmaschen zwischen die 2 Stäbchen von der 7. Reihe) so häkeln Sie 3 Mal 4 Stäbchen anstatt 3, so nehmen Sie 3 Maschen vor der Markierung zu - die 1. Reihe A.2 ist die mit dem schwarzen Quadrat. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.08.2022 - 10:02

country flag Virzi Laccania Claudette wrote:

Merci vraiment pour la rapidité de votre réponse. Je suis désolée je n'avais pas vu A4 écrit sur le côté.

11.06.2022 - 12:58

country flag Claudette Virzi Laccania wrote:

Bonjour, je ne trouve pas le diagramme correspondant à A4. Merci par avance pour votre réponse

09.06.2022 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Virzi Laccania, le diagramme A.4 est le dernier des diagrammes, celui juste au-dessus du schéma des mesures. Bon crochet!

09.06.2022 - 16:05

country flag Donatella wrote:

Grazie per la celere risposta. Era il commento tra parentesi dei 13 in lunghezza che mi deviava su dove inserire il marcapunti. Siete molto gentili e meraviglioso il vostro sito.

28.04.2022 - 11:38