DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 8.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Woodstock

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and A-shape, worked top down in ”Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-6
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-027
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 11, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 8.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rounds/rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP 1:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the new sts in stocking st.

INCREASE TIP 2:
Work until 1 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, 2 sts in stocking st, 1 YO. Repeat in the other side. On next round K the YOs. They should make holes.
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TOP:
The piece is worked top down. Work first front and back piece separately, back and forth down to armholes, then work in the round.

BACK PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows:
Cast on 16-17-17-18-20-20 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= towards the neck), work 10-11-11-12-14-14 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st (= towards armhole). Continue like this until 4 rows in stocking st have been work inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. On next row inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck - READ INCREASE TIP 1 = 17-18-18-19-21-21 sts. Work 1 row from WS and put piece aside.
Work left shoulder as follows:
Cast on and work as right shoulder but reversed. I.e. inc 1 st before the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck on 5th row in stocking st. Work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 new sts for neck and then work the 17-18-18-19-21-21 sts from right shoulder on to needle = 69-71-73-75-81-81 sts. Work the new sts cast on for neck in garter st. When 2 ridges have been worked over these sts, continue with 2 rows in stocking st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Now work pattern as follows on next row from RS (NOTE: Beg on 13th row in A.1- A.3, see star in diagram): Work 3 sts in garter st, 2-3-4-5-0-0 sts in stocking st, A.1 (= 5 sts), A.2 (= 16 sts) 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in width, A.3 (= 6 sts), 2-3-4-5-0-0 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st. Repeat A.1-A.3 vertically until finished measurements. When piece measures 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm from cast-on edge, inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side for armhole. Repeat inc on every row from RS 2-4-6-9-11-16 more times = 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts. Work 1 row from WS after last inc and put piece aside.

FRONT PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows:
Cast on 16-17-17-18-20-20 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): 3 sts in garter st (= towards armhole), work 10-11-11-12-14-14 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st (= towards the neck).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-8-7-8-8-9 cm, inc for neck and when piece measures 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm inc for armholes the same way as on back piece. NOTE: In size XXXL beg inc for armholes before inc for neck.
INCREASE NECK:
Inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck. Repeat inc on every row from RS 4-4-5-5-6-6 more times = 5-5-6-6-7-7 sts inc for neck. When all inc are done, work 1 row from WS. Put piece aside.

Work left shoulder as follows:
Cast on and work as right shoulder but reversed. I.e. inc 1 st before the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck.
When all inc for neck are done, work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 27 new sts in all sizes for neck, then work all sts from right shoulder on to needle. Continue back and forth like this (continue inc for armholes) until 2 ridges have been worked over the new sts for neck. On next row from RS work pattern A.4 (= 27 sts) over the middle 27 sts on needle. NOTE: Work A.4 1 time vertically but the repetition will not be finished vertically before front and back pieces are put tog and you are working in the round on body.
When all inc for armholes are done, there are 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts on needle. After last inc work 1 row from WS. Turn and work over all sts on front piece, cast on 4-6-8-10-12-14 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these new sts (= 2-3-4-5-6-7 sts on each side of marker), work 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts from back piece on to same circular needle and cast on 4-6-8-10-12-14 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these new sts (= 2-3-4-5-6-7 sts on each side of marker) = 158-174-190-210-234-258 sts on round. Beg of round is after the last 4-6-8-10-12-14 new sts cast on.

BODY:
Then work in the round on circular needle. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue with pattern as follows: Work 3 sts in garter st, continue in stocking st with pattern as before over the next 69-75-81-89-99-109 sts - NOTE: Continue pattern A.4 until entire repetition has been worked 1 time vertically, then work in stocking st over all sts on front piece, 10-12-14-16-18-20 sts in garter st, stocking st over the next 5-8-11-15-12-17 sts, continue pattern A.1-A.3 as before over the next 59-59-59-59-75-75 sts, 5-8-11-15-12-17 sts in stocking st, 7-9-11-13-15-17 sts in garter st. When 2 ridges have been worked over the new sts for armholes, continue these sts in stocking st until finished measurements. When piece measures 4 cm, inc 2 st in each side of piece - READ INCREASE TIP 2! Repeat inc every 4th round until finished measurements. When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm – adjust to finish after 10th or 20th round in A.1-A.3 - work 1 round in stocking st. There are now approx. 262-278-298-318-346-374 sts on round depending on where the pattern is finished. Then work 2 ridges. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS




symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = beg on this row in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Diana wrote:

Zodra alle steken op de rondbreinaald staan en er verder alleen nog in de rondte gebreid wordt, hoe brei ik dan het ajourpatroon? Er zijn dan geen averechtse naalden meer. Brei ik dan steeds de 2e naald de omslagen gewoon rechts zoals ze voorkomen? Ik heb het idee dat mijn gaatjes niet hetzelfde zijn als toen ik de omslagen averechts breidde? Alvast bedankt .

11.04.2022 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Diana,

Als je in de rondte breit, dan brei je inderdaad steeds de tweede naald recht. De spanning op de draad kan inderdaad soms wat anders zijn als je in de rondte breit. Dit is van persoon tot persoon verschillend. Dit zou je even in de gaten kunnen hebben. Voor de rest heeft het rondbreien verder geen invloed op het patroon (behalve dan dat je de steken recht aan de goede kant breit in plaats van averecht aan de verkeerde kant).

14.04.2022 - 11:45

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter le devant, j'ai tricote les deux epaules, droite en premier, puis gauche, conformement aux instructions, mais il me semble que le patron devrait etre inverse par rapport au dos; c'est a dire tricoter l'epaule GAUCHE en premier, laisser un fil en attente cote encolure, tricoter l'epaule DROITE et faire les 27 augmentations de l'encolure a partir de l'epaule droite et continuer a tricoter vers l'epaule gauche. Merci de preciser.

18.08.2019 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, votre commentaire a été transmis à nos stylistes qui vont l'étudier, merci pour votre retour. Si une correction doit être faite, vous la retrouverez en ligne. Bon tricot!

19.08.2019 - 10:48

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, Dans les explications du dos: "À 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm depuis le rang de montage, augmenter pour les emmanchures ...", s'agit-il du rang de montage initial (le haut des epaules) ou bien le rang des augmentations de l'encolure? Les jetes des augmentations doivent-ils etre tricotes en mailles torses sur l'envers? Merci!

17.07.2019 - 08:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, on mesure depuis les mailles de l'épaule pour que l'emmanchure soit juste en hauteur. Tout à fait, les augmentations doivent se tricoter torse - cf AUGMENTATIONS-1. Bon tricot!

17.07.2019 - 11:14

country flag Lise Tamara Sand wrote:

Jeg strikker str xxl og med 81 m før økning til ermehull så blir 11 økninger *2 , 11 for hver ermhull, så blir 81+22= 103m ikke 105

13.06.2019 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lise. Du øker 11 ganger TIL - altså i tillegg til den første gangen som blir forklart. Dvs det økes totalt 12 ganger = 105 masker etter økningene til ermhull. God fornøyelse

13.06.2019 - 09:24

country flag Valerie wrote:

I am at the increase neck section. I have increased the appropriate number of stitches and am increasing for the armhole as well. Do I stop when the stitches for the neck are finished or continue until all the stitches for the armhole are finished?

19.08.2018 - 02:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Valerie, You work each shoulder separately, so increase for neck on the right shoulder and then work the left shoulder. Once you have worked both shoulders you cast on stitches for the neck and work the shoulders together. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

21.08.2018 - 07:54

country flag Susanna wrote:

These patterns are great, but I really wish they would be edited better. I couldn't tell which "cast on edge" to measure from when beginning the back armhole increases. I chose the neck cast on, and only after happening to read a comment here did I learn it was supposed to be the shoulders. Also, there is a mistake in the pattern for the front shoulders--the left shoulder should be knitted first, then the right, neck cast on to right shoulder, then left shoulder joined.

03.07.2018 - 20:38

country flag Natalie Hall wrote:

All the keys in every knitting chart are blank on all my devices so I don’t know if I am supposed to k2tog or sl k1 psso. Is there a key chart which is in a different format?

22.05.2018 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hall, the dec are symbols 2 , 3 and 5, ie either diagonal line over 2 sts/squares (2nd and 3rd symbol) or black triangle over 3 sts (5th symbol). Happy knitting!

22.05.2018 - 12:47

country flag Margrethe Fauske wrote:

Hei!\r\nJeg har kommet til der jeg legger opp 27 masker til hals. Jeg strikker str. S.\r\nJeg har strikket høyre skulder: legg opp 16 masker, øk 5 masker til hals, øk 3 masker til ermehull = 24 masker. Jeg har gjort det samme med venstre skulder = 48 masker. Pluss de 27 maskene til hals har jeg da 75 masker. Men oppskriften sier at jeg skal fortsette å øke til ermehull til jeg har 75 masker, men det har jeg allerede? Hva har jeg gjort feil?

11.05.2018 - 11:58

KATE ROBINSON wrote:

Hi, When the pattern says "When piece measures 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm / 5"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4"-4"-2 3/4'' from cast-on edge, inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side for armhole." what is meant by "inside the 3 sts in garter st"? Where are those stitches to made exactly? Between the last stockinette stitch and the first garter stitch? And how many stitches are we increasing by? Is that one stitch for each garter st border, ie 4 stitches? Thank you!

17.04.2018 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Robinson, you increase from RS after the first 3 sts in garter st and before the last 3 sts in garter st. These new sts will be worked in stockinette stitch= you will increase 2 sts on each inc row = every RS row. Happy knitting!

18.04.2018 - 09:37

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Der Abschlussrand rollt sich trotz den 2 Reihen kraus rechts immer hoch. Hat jemand ein Tipp???

20.01.2018 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, Sie können das Top mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

22.01.2018 - 09:08