DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

City Stroll

Knitted DROPS jacket with stripes, V-neck and pockets in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 167-16
DROPS design: Pattern no de-154
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 06, pink/purple
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 05, beige/grey/pink

NOTE: Jacket worked in one colour = 250-250-300-300-350-350 g Delight.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 27 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 523: 5-5-5-5-5-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
* Work 2 rows beige/grey/pink, work 2 rows pink/purple *, repeat from *-*.

TIP FOR CHANGING YARN:
When working stripes, switch yarn in the side of piece to avoid visible yarn fastenings.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck):
Dec inside 5 band sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 5 band sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows after 5 band sts: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st. All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 11, 18, 25 and 32 cm
SIZE M: 3, 11, 18, 26 and 33 cm
SIZE L: 3, 11, 19, 27 and 34 cm
SIZE XL: 3, 11, 19, 27 and 35 cm
SIZE XXL: 3, 12, 20, 28 and 36 cm
SIZE XXXL: 3, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Work STRIPES - see explanation above - through entire pattern.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 90-98-106-118-130-142 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with beige/grey/pink. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1! Repeat dec every 7-8-8-8-9-9 cm 4 times in total = 82-90-98-110-122-134 sts. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast off for armholes in each side, on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-4-5 times and 1 st 1-1-2-2-3-3 times = 80-82-84-86-88-90 sts. When piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts (work rest of sts as before) then cast off the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts for neckline and finish each shoulder separately = 31-32-32-33-33-34 sts. Continue in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st towards the neck. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 50-54-58-64-70-76 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 5 band sts) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with beige/grey/pink. READ TIP FOR CHANGING YARN! Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, continue in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st at beg of row from RS and 1 edge st in garter st in the side. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in the side. Repeat dec every 7-8-8-8-9-9 cm 4 times in total = 46-50-54-60-66-72 sts. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, dec for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: Dec 1 st inside 5 band sts - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Repeat dec every other row 14-14-15-15-16-16 times in total - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm cast off for armhole at beg of every row from WS as on back piece. When cast off for armhole and dec for neck are done, there are 31-32-32-33-33-34 sts on needle. Continue in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. cast off for armhole at beg of row from RS and band sts at the end of row from RS. Do not dec for buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. REMEMBER STRIPES!
Cast on 50-52-54-57-59-61 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with beige/grey/pink. Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 3-4-2-4-4-3 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3½-2½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm 9-11-12-12-15-16 times in total = 68-74-78-81-89-93 sts. When piece measures 33-32-31-30-28-28 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 6-7-8-0-0-0 times, 2 sts 0-0-0-11-14-15 times = 24-24-22-29-25-25 sts. Cast off. Piece measures approx. 38-38-38-39-40-40 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. REMEMBER STRIPES! Cast on 23 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with beige/grey/pink. Work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 9 cm, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Cast off. Knit another pocket. Sew pockets on to jacket, approx. 7 cm from bottom edge and approx. in the middle on front piece.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Marie Letocart wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis très étonnée et déçue qu'il n'y ai plus de delight !!! J'ai fait une magnifique couverture au crochet avec et ma fille m'a demandé de lui en faire une. Au moment de commander, je m'aperçois qu'il n'y a plus que quatre couleurs et qu'elles sont épuisées! Quelle déception! J'espère que nous serons nombreuses et nombreux à réclamer son retour! Bonne journée. Marie.

22.08.2023 - 16:24

country flag Lynn wrote:

Hello, I wonder if you can help, I am having a problem understanding the decreases whilst knitting the right side. I have got upto finishing with 50 stitches as I am knitting the second size. It then says decrease for the next at the beginning of every row from mid front as follows, but every time I try to do it it comes out wrong. I really do not understand the decrease tip at number 2 for the neck or any of the decrease s for the neck? Please help!

16.03.2023 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, you decrease 1 stitch for neck a total of 14 times and at the same time, cast off for armhole on the side as for back piece = 3 sts 1 time + 1 stitch 1 time = there were 50 sts - 14 sts (neck) - 4 sts (armhole) = 32 sts remain for shoulder. Happy knitting!

16.03.2023 - 16:43

country flag Andrea wrote:

Wie kriegt man es hin, daß beim rechten Vorderteil der Fadenwechsel der Streifen an der rechten Seitennaht ist? Dort beginnen doch die Rückreihen. Die Hinreihen beginnen doch in der Jackenmitte, wo auch die kraus rechte Jackenblende mit den Knopflöchern . Für das linke Vorderteil ist alles klar. Aber damit es für das rechte Vorderteil gleich aussieht verstehe ich das nicht. Bitte um Hilfe.

12.02.2023 - 17:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, nur die Farbelwechsel wird am Anfang der Rückreihe gestrickt, das rechte Vorderteil stricken Sie sonnst wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.02.2023 - 10:17

country flag MCath wrote:

Que voulez-vous dire par "Tricoter 3 côtes au point mousse" je ne comprends pas le 3 côtes. vous indiquez "voir ci-dessus"... mais il n'y a rien ci-dessus. merci d'avance.

27.04.2022 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour MCath, au tout début des explications se trouve l'explication du POINT MOUSSE: ... 1 côte mousse = 2 rangs end., autrement dit, pour tricoter 3 côtes au point mousse, vous tricotez 6 rangs endroit. Bon tricot!

28.04.2022 - 11:35

country flag AnneMette Salvesen wrote:

Hei. Jeg kan ikke se på mønsteret at det skal felles tilsvarende til ermhulen som på bolen? Er dette korrekt? \r\nMvh AnneMette

08.02.2022 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej AnneMette, på Ermet skal du felle til ermetopp ifølge opskriften for at den skal passe ind i ermhullet. Ermhullet på ryg og forstykke strikkes ens :)

09.02.2022 - 10:30

country flag Anna wrote:

Grazie per la tempestiva risposta. Si . Il mio campione corrisponde a quello da voi indicato nel modello. 10 cm corrispondono a 21 maglie quindi se intreccio 18 maglie sono 9 cm. Forse mi sfugge qualcosa. Scusatemi ma non capisco

24.10.2021 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna, le istruzioni sono corrette: provi a continuare a lavorare e a riprendere le misure una volta bloccato il lavoro. Buon lavoro!

20.11.2021 - 11:56

country flag Anna wrote:

Buongiorno ho lavorato il dietro e sono arrivata allo scollo ho intrecciato le 18 maglie indicate nella spiegazione però mi sembrano poche anche perché la misura che ottengo è 9 cm. e non 18 cm . come indicato diagramma. Forse sarebbe necessario intrecciare più maglie? Resto in attesa di una vostra cortese risposta. Grazie mille. Anna

24.10.2021 - 00:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato? Buon lavoro!

24.10.2021 - 20:17

country flag Sandra Miller wrote:

Could you please explain what it means to “work 2 ridges” when finishing the pocket? Thank you!

17.10.2021 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, 2 ridges are 4 rows / rounds with garter stitch. Happy Stitching!

17.10.2021 - 18:29

country flag Sandra Miller wrote:

I have a math question for sleeve decrease, size XL. “Repeat inc every ½",15 times in total = 89sts. bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0 times, 2 sts 14 times = 25 sts. “ 8+ 28 = 36. But 89 - 36 = 53. I can’t figure out how it equals 25. Please help. I would love to finish the sweater! Thank you.

04.10.2021 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Miller, you have to cast off the same number of sts on each side, ie you will cast off at the beginning of every row both from RS and from WS: 4 sts + 2 sts x 14 = 32 sts will be cast off on each side; so that you get 89 - 32 -32 = 25 sts left. Happy knitting!

05.10.2021 - 07:27

country flag Gisela Weisz wrote:

Ich stricke die Jacke der Anleitung 167-16 in M. Die Angaben für den Armausschnitt und den V-Auschnitt können nicht richtig sein. Laut Maschenprobe müssten für den Armausschnitt mindestens 10 Maschen abgenommen werden, um 5 bis 6 cm zu erhalten. Laut Angabe werden aber nur 4 Maschen abgenommen (3/1). Beim V-Ausschnitt dürfte nur alle vier Reihen abgenommen werden und nicht jede zweite. MfG Gisela Weisz

09.08.2021 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Weisz, die 6 cm bei der Ärmeltopp bei der Skizze gilt nur für das Ärmeltopp, nicht für die Breige von Armausschnitt an der Seite. Die V-Halsausschnitte werden in jeder 2. Reihe gearbeitet, dann stricken Sie gerade bis zur Ende; Sie können aber die Abnahmen in der Höhe anders verteilen, wenn Sie es so lieber haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.08.2021 - 12:37