DROPS 167-9
DROPS design: Pattern no n-179
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Length: approx. 18 - 18 cm / 7"-7'' Circumference: approx. 17 - 19 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"
Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g for both sizes in color no 17, light beige
50 g for both sizes in color no 02, off white

NOTE: Wrist warmers worked with one color = 50 g Cotton Viscose in both sizes.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.1 shows how round beg and ends.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Crochet in the round from bottom up. Work 44-51 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with light beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 1-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 36-42 dc and 3 ch.

Then work A.2 as follows (repeat A.2 6-7 times in total on round) - NOTE: When diagram has been worked vertically, switch to off white and repeat A.X 1 more time vertically.
ROUND 1: A.1 shows how round beg and ends - work ch 3, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in next dc, * skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 36-42 dc.
ROUND 2: Work ch 5, 1 sc between first and next dc-group, * ch 4, 1 sc between previous and next dc-group *, repeat from *-* until last dc-group, work 4 ch and 1 sc between next dc-group and the 3 ch at beg of 1st round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round = 12-14 ch-spaces. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 3:Work ch 4, 1 dc in first ch-space, * ch 2, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 11-13 ch-spaces and 2 ch.
ROUND 4: Work ch 3, 2 dc around first ch, 3 dc around every ch-space the entire round, finish with 1 dc in last ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work ch 1, * ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 6-7 dc and 6-7 sc.
ROUND 6: Work ch 5, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in first dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 18-21 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7: Work ch 1, * skip 1 ch-space, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) around next ch-space, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 6-7 dc-groups.
ROUND 8: Work ch 6, 1 sc around first ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 3, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 12-14 ch-spaces.
ROUND 9: Work ch 3, 3 dc around every ch-space the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 36-42 dc.
ROUND 10: Work ch 3, 1 dc in every dc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 11: Work ch 3, skip 1 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next dc , * skip 2 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 12-14 ch.
ROUND 12: Work ch 3, 3 dc around every ch the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 36-42 dc.
ROUND 13: Work ch 3, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12-14 ch-spaces.
ROUND 14: Work ch 3, 3 dc around every ch-space the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 36-42 dc.
ROUND 15-17: As 1st-3rd round. Fasten off.

ROUND 18-21: Switch to off white. Repeat 4th-7th round. Fasten off. Work another wrist warmer the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st
symbols = sc between 2 dc-groups/3 ch at beg of round
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around ch/ch-space
symbols = round is explained in pattern Round has already been worked, it only shows how 1st round in diagram should be worked
symbols = beg round with ch 3, and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round
symbols = beg round with ch 1, and finish round 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Elizabeth wrote:

I loved this pattern - I am newly returned to crochet after not having done much since I was a child. The video helped me get this right first time. (Well, I did have to unravel a few times but that is just because I can't count to three.) The wristlets are so beautiful. I shall make more!

13.10.2023 - 20:50

country flag Helga Eitel wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung für die Pulswärmer ist ein Fehler am Ende der RD 13. Hier müsste es heißen dass Sie endet mit 1 KM in die 3. Im. Ich konnte den Fehler ohne Probleme erkennen, was bei Anfängern vielleicht nicht der Fall ist. Ich hoffe dass meine Mitteilung gut war. Ich benutze seit Jahren nur DROPS und bin begeistert über die gute Qualität und den Preis. Freundliche Grüße Helga Eitel

13.05.2021 - 11:24

country flag Olivia wrote:

Efter varv 7 står att jag skall ha 6/7 st grupper... Men jag förstår inte hur det skall bli så .. v 6 avslutas med 18 bågar men antalet stämmer inte efter v 7 Gör storlek s/m

04.11.2020 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Olivia. Str. S/M. Når du har heklet 6. omgang har du 18 luftmaskebuer (3 luftmaskebuer pr 1 gang du har heklet A.2). Når du så hekler 7. omgang hekler du 1 stavgruppe i den midterste luftmaskebuen fra forrige omgang. Du hekler A.2 6 ganger, 1 stavgruppe pr A.2 som hekles = 6 stavgrupper. I str. L/XL ville du ha hatt 7 stavgrupper. Se gjerne hjelpevideoen til disse pulsvarmerene. God Fornøyelse!

09.11.2020 - 10:53

country flag Liz wrote:

I dont understand. The pattern starts with "Work 44-51 ch on hook..." Does this means I can work 45 stitches, or 46, or 47, etc? Any number between 44 & 51?

11.01.2020 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Liz, this pattern is in two sizes: S/M and L/XL, in the first size, you will start with 44 chains and in the larger size you will start with 51 chains. Happy crocheting!

13.01.2020 - 08:45

country flag Valérie Tack wrote:

Ik heb net één polswarmer afgewerkt. Op zich een heel mooi patroon, maar aan de pols is hij veel te breed en sluit dus totaal niet aan. Heb ik iets verkeerd gedaan? Het lijkt mij dat de polswarmer idealiter ongeveer vanaf het midden zou moeten beginnen minderen...

14.05.2019 - 15:09

country flag Isabel wrote:

Fejl i opskrift til omg. 13: Der mangler vist at stå at man stopper når der er tre stm tilbage og slutter med 2lm og så en km i 3.lm i begyndelsen af omg. dette vises også på videoen.

14.10.2017 - 13:43

country flag Heidi wrote:

Dere får slette det siste spørsmålet mitt. Jeg klarte det! :)

29.09.2017 - 23:40

country flag Heidi wrote:

Jeg får 12 lm-buer på omgang 3 også, selv om jeg sluttet med 12 lm-buer på omgang 2. Hva gjør jeg feil? Har forsøkt flere ganger (har tatt opp heklingen igjen etter et par måneders fravær - nå skjønner jeg plutselig ingenting).

29.09.2017 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, har du set videoen :)

How to crochet the wrist warmers in DROPS 167-9 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

03.10.2017 - 11:45

country flag Heidi wrote:

Hei skjønner IKKE omgang 6. Jeg har forsøkt flere ganger men får det absolutt ikke til - verken av diagram eller forklaring. Når jeg hekler etter forklaringen får jeg 16 lm-buer, verken mer eller mindre .

06.08.2017 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. Har du sett på videoen til denne pulsvarmeren? Der viser vi blant annet 6.omgang. Videoen finner du nederst på oppskriften eller i video fanen. God Fornøyelse!

07.08.2017 - 13:58

Limor wrote:

I made myself some wrist warmers for the winter and handed them out to my family. then i sent some to a friend and they commented how can it hold usually it needs to close on the thumb or the fingers so i am calling it a sleeve instead of a wrist warmer. recently i got burned by winter sun. so i knitted myself a sleeve or wrist cooler and i wore it out in the sun. i was cold! it is elegant and keeps me cool! the summer wrist cooler!

12.03.2016 - 22:46