DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Vintage Charmer

Knitted DROPS jumper with a small cable edge, lace pattern and raglan in ”BabyMerino” or "DROPS ♥ You #7". Size: XS - XXXL.

DROPS 169-10
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-025
Yarn group A
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Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 44, powder

Or use:
Materials: DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 08, vanilla

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib and edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cable edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 1 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, work 2 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of A.4 in every transition between sleeves and body.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Beg 2 sts before A.4, K 2 tog, A.4 (= 6 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Beg 2 sts before A.4, P 2 twisted tog, A.4 (= 6 sts), P 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck edge):
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 114 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 10) = 11.4. I.e. in this example work alternately approx. every 10th and 11th st and every 11th and 12th st tog.


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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 322-350-378-448-476-546-574 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino or DROPS ♥ You #7. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 5. When piece measures 3-3-3-3-4-4-4 cm, dec 1 st in every P-section by working the first 2 sts in every P-section P tog. Repeat dec when piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, but now work the last 2 sts in every P-section P tog = 230-250-270-320-340-390-410 sts on needle. Now work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 23-25-27-32-34-39-41 repetitions of 10 sts). When A.1 has been worked vertically, 184-200-216-256-272-312-328 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8-8 cm. K 1 round while at the same time dec 8-6-4-8-6-10-8 sts evenly = 176-194-212-248-266-302-320 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2. After A.2 insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 88-97-106-124-133-151-160 sts. Then work as follows: * Work A.3A (= 6 sts), repeat A.3B over the next 72-81-90-108-117-135-144 sts (= 8-9-10-12-13-15-16 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.3C (= 10 sts), marker *, repeat from *-* one more time. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 12 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 5-5-6-8-10-10-10 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3-3 times = 192-210-228-260-278-314-332 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole, work 90-99-106-122-129-147-156 sts (= back piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work 90-99-106-122-129-147-156 sts (= front piece) and cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-52-61-61-61-70-70 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino or DROPS ♥ You #7. K 1 round. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 - NOTE: On 7th round in A.2 K last st on round (applies to size L + XL + XXL). When A.2 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Work next round as follows: Work A.3A (= 6 sts), work A.3B over the next 36-36-45-45-45-54-54 sts (= 4-4-5-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 9 sts) and finish with A.3C (= 10 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 5-6-6-7-5-9-9 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 14-16-13-15-16-14-17 times in total = 80-84-87-91-93-98-104 sts – NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern again. Work until piece measures approx. 47-47-46-46-45-45-45 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) – adjust to work the same length in repetition of A.3 as on back body before dec for armholes. Work next round as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts, work 74-78-79-83-83-88-94 sts and cast off the remaining 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 3 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 328-354-370-410-424-470-500 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern as before and work in addition A.4 in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.4). AT THE SAME TIME on first round beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every other round a total of 24-25-28-29-32-34-34 times and then every round a total of 4-5-2-3-0-0-3 times - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit A.3 in stocking st when dec.
NECK: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-54-56 cm, slip the middle 12-17-24-28-35-43-46 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish piece back and forth on needle (in some sizes dec for raglan from both RS and WS). Continue with pattern and raglan as before and cast off for neck at beg of every row from the neck as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 times.
After all dec and cast offs for raglan and neck, 78-83-92-104-111-127-130 sts remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 104-114-130-154-168-198-204 sts (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm. P 1 round. K 1 round while dec evenly to 102-104-120-122-132-136-140 sts (i.e. dec approx. 2-10-10-32-36-62-64 sts) – READ DECREASE TIP. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, then loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.05.2016
SLEEVE:...When piece measures 5-6-6-7-5-9-9 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 14-16-13-15-16-14-17 times in total = 80-84-87-91-93-98-104 sts – NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern again. Work until piece measures approx. 47-47-46-46-45-45-45 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) – adjust to work the same length in repetition of A.3 as on back body before dec for armholes...

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Barbara wrote:

Nach dem Ende der Halsblende sind noch 130 M. Übrig Dann sollen 204 M. aufgenommen werden ? Wie das?

29.02.2024 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, fassen Sie auch Maschen beim Halsausschnitt für Vorderteil auf, dann wird es aber bis 140 Maschen für die Halsblende abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

01.03.2024 - 08:19

country flag Pauline wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis perdue. Arrivée au diagramme A3, dès le début je suis à 12cm et donc j'augmente. Mais comme j'ai une augmentation, je le commence quand le diagramme A.3A ? Merci beaucoup

15.01.2024 - 07:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pauline, tricotez les diagrammes A.3 comme avant, tricotez les nouvelles mailles augmentées d'abord en jersey, puis, quand vous en aurez suffisamment, vous pourrez les tricoter au point fantaisie. Notez que sur les côtés, le motif ne tombe pas juste, mais continuez à bien aligner les A.3 du dos et du devant pour qu'ils continuent comme avant. Ajouter des marqueurs entre les diagrammes peut aider à mieux se repérer. Bon tricot!

15.01.2024 - 10:14

country flag Aj Dekker wrote:

Ik zoek patroon met gaatjes Anjou

13.01.2024 - 16:42

country flag Kathrin Günther wrote:

Hallo zusammen,, was bedeutet in dem Modell im Diagramm A. 2. Die Reihe 7 habe dazu leider keine Zeichenerklärung was muss ich da wie stricken?? Weiter im Diagramm A. 3 A, A. 3B, A. 3C Was muß ich da stricken bei dem dargestellten Muster in den Reihen 5 und 7 sowie in den Reihen 15 und 17 auch hierfür habe ich keine Zeichenerklärung. Ich danke Ihnen im voraus. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Kathrin Günther

08.08.2023 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Günther, bei der 7. Reihe in A.2 stricken Sie:*2 M rechts zs (= 4. Symbol), 1 Umschlag (3. Symbol)*, und wiederholen Sie von *-*. Bei A.3 beginnt das Lochmuster mit A.3A (= 6 M), dann wiederholen Sie die 9 Maschen A.3B und enden Sie das Lochmuster mit den 10 Maschen A.3C. Siehe die Symbolforklarungen zwischen der schriftlichen Anleitung und die ersten Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.08.2023 - 08:18

country flag Carol McMillan wrote:

2 questions 1 - I'm marking size XXL and just dec'd to 302 sts. I started the next row (chartA.2 8 sts) this doesn't divide evenly into 302? 2 - When piece measures 12 cm/4¾'', inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side . I just want to know where this actually occurs. Is it on the 1st row of the A3 charts?

18.12.2022 - 02:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, chart A.2 is actually a 2-stitch pattern, which is repeated 4 times so that it can be seen more easily than a 2-stitch chart. Since you have 302 stitches, you will be able to fit complete repeats of the 2-stitch chart. For the increases, you need to increase when the piece measures 12 cm, it doesn't depend on which row of the chart you are working (since, with different gauges, people may be working different rows when they reach this measurement). So the row of the chart doesn't matter, only the measurement of the piece. Happy knitting!

18.12.2022 - 23:28

country flag Schilders wrote:

Wat is goede en verkeerde kant bij raglan, waar is de goede en war is de verkeerde kant

07.12.2022 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Schilders,

De goede kant zit aan de buitenkant als je het kledingstuk draagt en de verkeerde kant zit tegen de huid als je het kledingstuk draagt. Dit geldt ook voor de raglan.

07.12.2022 - 20:30

country flag Schilders wrote:

Wat is goede en verkeerde kant bij raglan, waar is de goede en war is de verkeerde kant

07.12.2022 - 20:01

country flag Aggy wrote:

På hals skal man felle vridd vrang eller rett sammen?

21.05.2022 - 00:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aggy. Om du tenker på halskanten så står det i oppskriften at man skal felle løst av med rett. Men om du syns det blir penest med en annen avfellingsteknikk kan du fint gjøre det. mvh DROPS Design

23.05.2022 - 08:28

country flag Valerie O'Donovan wrote:

Hi there, I'm really enjoying knitting this pretty jumper, my first Drops pattern to knit, but I have a question re the yoke section. At the end of that section I'm left with 92 stitches (3rd size) What happens to those 92 sts?? Do I cast off before picking up 130 sts for neck edge?? I'm a little confused! Thanks, Val O'Donovan

22.04.2022 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs O'Donovan, you will work them for neck and at the same time pick up stitches along neck on front piece + work the 24 stitches on the thread: 92 sts on needle + 7 sts picked up before the sts on the thread + 24 sts on the thread + 7 sts picked up after the sts on the thread = 130 sts for neck. Happy knitting!

22.04.2022 - 15:33

country flag Pia wrote:

Hej Jeg undrer mig over, hvorfor der ikke er beskrevet en strikkefasthed i opskriften. Det giver lidt udfordringer mht. størrelsen. Mvh Pia

09.03.2022 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Stickfastheten står sammen med pinner som ska bruges; "DROPS STRØMPEP OG RUNDP (80 cm) nr 3 – eller det p.nr du skal bruge for at få 24 m x 32 p glatstrik på 10 x 10 cm." Mvh DROPS Design

09.03.2022 - 13:50