DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 167-8
DROPS design: Pattern no l-141
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 54/58 cm / 21/22 3/4"
Materials:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
150 g color no 11, beige
50 g color no 05 brown
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g color no 26, dark beige
50 g color no 44 brown

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 18 sc/hdc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work diagram 5 times in total on round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first hdc at beg of every hdc round with 2 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
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HAT:
The piece is worked top down. Crochet 5 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with beige/dark beige and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 11 hdc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2 (and then on every even numbered round): Work 1 sc in every hdc.
ROUND 3: Work 2 hdc in every sc = 22 hdc.
ROUND 5: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 33 hdc.
ROUND 7: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 44 hdc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 9: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 55 hdc.
ROUND 11: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 66 hdc.
ROUND 13: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 77 hdc.
ROUND 15: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 88 hdc.
ROUND 17: Work * 2 hdc in first/next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 43 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 90 hdc.
Continue every other round with 1 sc in every hdc and 1 hdc in every sc. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'' from the top, adjust so that last round is with sc. Work brim.

BRIM:
Now work A.1 as follows (repeat A.1 5 times in total on round):
ROUND 1: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work ch 2, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc*, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round = 90 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work * 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 13 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, 1 sc in each of the next 3 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 110 sc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 110 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 3 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 11 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 130 sc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first 6 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 6 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 130 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 6 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150 sc.
ROUND 7: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 9 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 10 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 140 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 sc in each of the first 9 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 6 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 11 sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 160 sc.
ROUND 9: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first 12 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 12 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 12 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 hdc, 3 sc around next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 13 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 170 sc.
ROUND 11: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first/next 16 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 15 sc, 2 hdc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 165 hdc and 5 ch-spaces.
ROUND 12: Work * 1 sc in each of the first/next 16 hdc, 3 sc around first/next ch-space, skip 1 hdc, 1 sc in each of the next 16 hdc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 175 sc.
ROUND 13: Work 1 hdc in every sc = 175 hdc. Fasten off.

PLAITED STRING:
Make a plait with 3 twined strings. Make 1 twined string as follows: Cut 2 lengths brown yarn of 8 metres/8½ yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot in each end of the string. Make another 2 strings the same way. Make 1 plait of the 3 twined strings. Tie a knot approx. 4 cm / 1½'' from each end. Twirl the plait 2 times around hat and tie a knot.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.07.2016
BRIM:
Now work A.1 as follows (repeat A.1 5 times in total on round):
ROUND 1: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work ch 2, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sc*, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round = 90 hdc and 10 ch-spaces.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch 2
symbols = sc in hdc
symbols = sc around ch-space
symbols = hdc in sc
symbols = hdc in sc (skip this hdc on next round)
symbols = beg round with 2 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch
symbols = last round on hat, round has already been worked
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (66)

country flag Iris wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de terminer ce chapeau et j'ai pu enrouler la tresse 4 fois !! autour du chapeau, elle est longue pourtant je fais 56cm de tour de tête. Le chapeau retombe de tous les côtés, pas de tenue du tout, dois-je l'amidonner ? Si oui, quel produit me conseillez-vous et comment procéder ? merci

18.03.2017 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Iris, avez-vous bien la bonne tension (18 ms/brides = 10 cm de large)? vous pouvez essayer avec un crochet plus serré et/ou amidonner légèrement pour lui donner la tenue souhaitée. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

20.03.2017 - 08:47

country flag Ann-kristin Mossberg wrote:

Hej! Är det verkligen meningen att vartannat varv skall vara fm utan ökningar? Min hatt blir alldeles toppig, som en glasstrut ungefär. Mvh

25.01.2017 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann-Kristin. Nej, der tages ud i hver omg til du har 90 halv-st i omg 17. Herefter hekler du med 1 fm i hver halv-st eller 1 halv-st i hver fm til den maaler 17 cm.

25.01.2017 - 16:35

country flag Ann-kristin Mossberg wrote:

Hej! Är det verkligen meningen att vartannat varv skall vara fm utan ökningar? Min hatt blir alldeles toppig, som en glasstrut ungefär. Mvh

25.01.2017 - 10:52

country flag Fidia Cruz wrote:

Hola .estoy confundida cuando el patron se refiere a hace un medio punto alto sobre un punto bajo si en la vuelta anterior no Hubo puntos bajos .gracias

24.08.2016 - 07:23

country flag Mariángeles wrote:

Hola, tengo una duda: ¿el cordón se hace con tres hilos de 8 metros?

20.08.2016 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mariángeles. Se hacen 3 cordones y cada cordón se trabaja con 2 hilos de 8 m cada uno

27.08.2016 - 23:08

country flag Irma wrote:

Hallo, ik heb deze hoed gehaakt, maar hoe komt de rand nu omgekruld? Dat lukt bij mijn hoed echt niet. Alvast bedankt Irma

04.08.2016 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dat kunnen we op afstand natuurlijk niet goed beoordelen, maar over het algemeen kunt u dit doen? Maak het werk nat (30 min. in lauw water) en rol het vervolgens op in een handdoek. De hoed is dan vochtig. Nu kunt u hem vormen zoals u wilt en laten drogen in deze vorm, eventueel ondersteund met een bolle kom, etc.

05.08.2016 - 10:25

country flag Anna wrote:

Zrobiłam ten kapelusz i jest świetny, ale mam problem. Mianowicie jak zrobić aby on był taki sztywny. Krochmal trochę pomógł ale nadal jest taki oklapnięty, a wasz na zdjęciu trzyma się świetnie. Można poprosić o instrukcję krok po kroku? Dodam że użyta była ta sama włóczka co u was.

31.07.2016 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Witam. Problem może leżeć w naprężeniu nitki podczas wykonywania robótki. Jeśli kapelusz jest przerabiany zbyt luźno efekt końcowy może być taki jak Pani opisuje. Albo należało by go wykonać na mniejszym szydełku, albo dobrze wykrochmalić. Pozdrawiamy i powodzenia

02.08.2016 - 00:43

Violet wrote:

Also, at round 1 of the brim it says: 2 hdc in each of the next 2 hdc *. I guess it should be 2 hdc in each of the next sc * because the last round of the hat is with sc.

11.07.2016 - 10:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Violet, you are correct, pattern will be edited. Thank you! Happy crocheting!

11.07.2016 - 13:05

Violet wrote:

Hello, Do you sl st at the end of round 2 at the brim ?

11.07.2016 - 10:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Violet, yes, you finish each round with hdc with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round, as you did before for the top of hat. Happy crocheting!

11.07.2016 - 13:03

country flag Iris wrote:

Bonjour, après plusieurs rangs, la jonction des rangs consécutifs forme une ligne en biais et non droite, comme sur vos vidéos. Ainsi, on voit comme une couture de travers sur le chapeau. Est-ce normal ? est-ce dû aux augmentations ? Est-ce moi qui ne finit pas bien mes rangs ? Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment rendre cette jonction invisible ? Merci :)

29.06.2016 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Iris, pour des jonctions de tours bien droites, commencez chaque tour par 2 ml (ces 2 ml remplacent la 1ère dB), et terminez le tour par 1 mc dans la 2ème ml - veillez bien à ce que vos 2ml soient à la même hauteur que vos demi brides pour que le début/la fin des tours soient bien droits, crochetez en 1 de plus si besoin. Bon crochet!

29.06.2016 - 17:56