DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Spring Fling

Knitted DROPS bolero with lace pattern and small cables in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 169-11
DROPS design: Pattern no z-733
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 2110, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7 pieces in all sizes
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO. On next row (= WS) P YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 232 sts), minus bands (e.g. 14 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec to be done (e.g. 47) = 4.6. I.e. in this example work alternately every third and fourth st and every fourth and fifth st tog (do not dec over bands).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 button hole = K third and fourth st from mid front twisted tog and make 1 YO, on next row work YO in rib.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23 and 27 cm
SIZE M: 2, 7, 12, 17, 21, 25 and 29 cm
SIZE L: 2, 7, 12, 17, 21, 25 and 29 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27 and 31 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22, 27 and 31 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 8, 13, 18, 23, 28 and 33 cm
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 232-256-280-312-356-392 sts (includes 7 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Alpaca. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in
garter st, K 1, P 1, K 1, P 2 (= 7 band sts), * K 2, P 2 * repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 7 band sts as follows: P 2, K 1, P 1, K 1, 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this for 2 cm / 3/4'' – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above.
Work next row as follows from RS: 7 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.1A until 9 sts remain, work A.1B (= 2 sts) and finish with 7 band sts as before. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-4"-4"-4''. Now K 1 row from RS while dec 47-55-59-67-79-83 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 185-201-221-245-277-309 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and P 1 row (continue bands as before). Insert 1 marker 50-54-59-65-73-81 sts in from each side (= 85-93-103-115-131-147 sts between markers on back piece).
Work next row as follows from RS: 7 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.2A over the next 40-40-50-50-60-70 sts (= 4-4-5-5-6-7 repetitions of 10 sts), work 3-7-2-8-6-4 sts in stockinette st, marker, work 8-2-7-3-1-9 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.2C over the next 60-80-80-100-120-120 sts (= 6-8-8-10-12-12 repetitions of 10 sts), work A.2B 1 time (= 9 sts), 8-2-7-3-1-9 sts in stockinette st, marker, 3-7-2-8-6-4 sts in stockinette st, pattern according to diagram A.2C over the next 40-40-50-50-60-70 sts and finish with 7 band sts as before.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING AND REMEMBER THE TENSION/GAUGE!
PATTERN: Continue with pattern and in stockinette st until 1 repetition has been worked vertically. Now work pattern the same way but over 1 repetition less towards the markers in the side, i.e. work A.2A 3-3-4-4-5-6 times in total, work 13-17-12-18-16-14 sts in stockinette st, marker, 18-12-17-13-11-19 sts in stockinette st, A.2C 4-6-6-8-10-10 times in total, A.2B 1 time, 18-12-17-13-11-19 sts in stockinette st, marker, 13-17-12-18-16-14 sts in stockinette st, A.2C 3-3-4-4-5-6 times in total. Continue the pattern like this by working over 1 repetition les towards the markers in the sides until 1 repetition has been worked over last repetition mid front and mid back. Then work in stockinette st over all sts until finished measurements.
SIDE INC: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 1½-1½-2-2-2½-2½ cm / ½"-½"-3/4"-3/4"-7/8"-7/" 6-6-6-6-5-5 times in total = 209-225-245-269-297-329 sts.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'', work next row as follows: Work 53-57-61-67-73-81 sts as before (= front piece), bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work 91-99-107-119-131-147 sts as before (= back piece), bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work the remaining 53-57-61-67-73-81 sts as before (= front piece).
Finish fronts and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 91-99-107-119-131-147 sts. Continue with stockinette st back and forth and cast/bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3-4-5-6 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-6-7 times = 85-87-89-91-93-97 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm / 14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18'', bind off the middle 33-33-35-35-37-37 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast/bind off 1 st at beg of the next 2 rows from neck = 24-25-25-26-26-28 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19'' and loosely bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 53-57-61-67-73-81 sts. Continue in stockinette st back and forth on circular needle with 7 band sts towards mid front as before and cast/bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-30-30-32-32-34 cm / 11"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-12½"-12½"-13½", slip the first 12-12-13-13-14-14 sts at beg of row from mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast/bind off for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4 times, and 1 st 3 times. After all bind offs for armhole and dec for neck, 24-25-25-26-26-28 sts remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm / 15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19'' and loosely bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed - NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when sleeve cap beg.
Cast on 76-80-88-92-100-108 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Alpaca. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 1 cm / 3/8'', work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1A. When piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', work next round as follows: Bind off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, K 70-74-80-84-90-98 and bind off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work pattern back and forth on circular needle according to diagram A.3. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 3-4-4-4-4-5 times and 1 st 6-7-9-9-12-12 times. Then cast/bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures 11-12-13-15-17-18 cm / 6 3/4-7''. Bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before loosely binding off remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 12-13-14-16-18-19 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-5½"-6 1/4"-7"-7½".
Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 approx. 118 to 138 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holders at the front). K 5 rows and then loosely bind off with K from RS.
Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Spring Fling

Charlotta, Sweden

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Laure wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de faire ce modèle en taille L pour le dos actuellement et je ne comprends pas pour les diminutions. D'après les indications données dans la taille choisie Je ne compte que 12 diminutions il manque 6 diminutions par rapport au chiffre de mailles restant après les premières diminutions soit 89 au lien de 107

07.08.2023 - 02:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laure, en taille L vous devez rabattre pour les emmanchures de chaque côté: 3 fois 2 m + 3 fois 1 m, soit 9 mailles de chaque côté et donc 18 m au total, vous aviez 107 m - 18 = 89 mailles. Bon tricot!

07.08.2023 - 11:23

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Jag undrar hur man på rundsticka maskar av i början och slutet utan att få en maska över i slutet när man möter de redan avmaskade? Sedan undrar jag vid ärmkullens början, ska det maskas av tre maskor (stl s) i såväl början som slutet på varje varv? Om man bara maskar av i början 3 ggr blir det ojämt antal maskor på vardera sida.

04.07.2023 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Cecilia, när du har maskat av, klipper du tråden, byter till sticka 3 och stickar fram och tillbaka. Du minskar (i början av varvet) 3 ggr i varje sida så det blir jämnt :)

05.07.2023 - 08:29

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hallo, ich habe Größe M gestrickt und Rücken- + Vorderteile fertig und an den Schultern zusammen genäht. Einen Ärmel habe ich ebenfalls fertig, allerdings ist der Ärmel für die Öffnung zu klein. Der Armausschnitt misst ja 19 cm und der Ärmel hat nur 13 cm Länge. Soll das so sein? So bekomme ich den ja gar nicht eingenäht. Maschenprobe passt.

04.07.2023 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, die Ärmel werden herum das Armoch eingenäht, dh die 3 Maschen, die Sie beidseitig abgekettet haben werden an den 3 Maschen vom Vorderteil + 3 Maschen vom Rückenteil genäht, dann wird den ganzen Rand (die abgkettenen Maschen bei dem Ärmel) am Armloch eingenäht = die 10 cm vom Ärmelkugel werden an die 19 cm x 2 für das Armloch eingenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.07.2023 - 14:53

country flag Emmely wrote:

Hej! Jag håller på att sticka denna Spring Fling och har kommit till ärmarna, men då är diagrammen plötsligt borta?!! Är det min enhet som bråkar med mig eller har jsg blivit knäpp? Diagrammen saknas men det gjorde dom inte förut. Jag har dom på andra tröjor här på siten. Help :)

17.04.2023 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emmely, jo jeg får diagrammerne frem... prøv at skifte sprog (lige under billedet)... eller prøv at starte om :)

18.04.2023 - 10:34

country flag Claire wrote:

When adding the circular sleeve on double pointed needles to the body on a circular needle, there are too many stitches across the sleeve to knit easily. I ended up having to knit the sleeves on straight needles and sewing them together separately. The tutorial shows a tiny garment, so the problem does not occur! No one else has asked the question, so what am I doing wrong?

24.08.2022 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claire, on this pattern the sleeves are worked separately and sewn afterwards. When you work a yoke adding sleeves over stitches cast off for armhole on the body, the first rows/rounds might look somewhat tricky but you can then use the magic loop technique for these first row/rounds, then it will work fine afterwards. Happy knitting!

24.08.2022 - 13:30

country flag Nicole wrote:

How many stitches are left for the sleeves after all the bind offs?

06.05.2022 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, what is important is that the shape of the sleeve cap is correct, more than the amount of stitches left, which will depend on your gauge. The amount of stitches left will also depend on the size, so it's difficult to make the calculations without knowing which size you are working. Happy knitting!

08.05.2022 - 19:36

country flag Agnes Oblas wrote:

I live in Arizona where Spring has temps in the 90's (f) and Summer has 100+. Can I make pattern # 169-11 Spring Fling with your Drops 100% Alpaca for my climate??

01.01.2022 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Agnes, Alpaca is a rather warm yarn, however the simple "DROPS Alpaca" is not too thick. It always depends on your personal preference, how hot you get. Happy Knitting!

03.01.2022 - 02:00

country flag Maria Van Der Mast wrote:

Kan het patroon ook worden weergegeven met gewone naalden. Ik ben 88 jaar . Kan niet omgaan met rondbreinaald.

04.08.2021 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Maria,

Helaas is dit patroon alleen uitgeschreven voor de rondbreinaald. Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

07.08.2021 - 10:33

country flag Caroline Lalanne wrote:

Min fråga är antal rapporter på höjden. Det står att man ska minska tills det är 1x a.2a, a.2b och a.2c (mitt fram och mitt bak). I XL blir det 5ggr på höjden men bilden är det 4ggr på höjden. Är antal ggr på höjden bunden till storleken?

25.04.2021 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Caroline. Ja, det kommer an på størrelsen. Modellen på bildet bruker str. S eller M og for at det skal bli penere i de større størrelsene strikkes det da flere ganger i høyden (5 ggr). mvh DROPS design

03.05.2021 - 11:44

country flag Tine wrote:

Hvorfor står der i opskriften at ribben er 2 cm? Den skal da være 10, skal den ikke?

14.04.2021 - 09:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tine, Ribben består af små snoninger :)

14.04.2021 - 15:05