DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Spring Splendor

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with lace pattern and zig zag pattern in ”Cotton Merino”

DROPS 170-12
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-040
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Width at the top: 140 cm / 55'' Length in the middle: 70 cm / 27½''
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
450 g color no 17, vanilla

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth, top down. Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Cotton Merino. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, and inc 4 sts evenly on every row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP = 18 sts. Work next row as follows from RS: Work 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, insert 1 marker, * A.1 (= 2 sts), insert 1 marker *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, finish with 3 sts in garter st = 7 markers in piece. Move the markers upwards when working. Continue with A.1 and 3 sts in garter st in each side of piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 138 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.2 (= 11 sts) until 3 sts remain (= 12 times in width), finish with 3 sts in garter st. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 186 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.3 (= 30 sts) until 3 sts remain (= 6 times in width), finish with 3 sts in garter st. On last row from RS in A.3 inc 1 st with a YO after the 3 sts in garter st at the beg of row. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 277 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 38 cm / 15'' on the longest (measured along the middle).

Work next row as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, work A.4 (= 3 sts), * A.5 (= 40 sts), A.6 (= 5 sts) *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, work A.5, A.7 (= 3 sts), finish with 3 sts in garter st. Inc in A.4/A.6/A.7 is drawn in A.5 so that the pattern fits. Repeat A.4/A.6/A.7 vertically until A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 361 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 53 cm / 21'' on the longest (measured along the middle).

Work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, 1 st in garter st (this st is worked in garter st when working in garter st in A.8 and in stockinette st when working in stockinette st in A.8), repeat A.8 (= 59 sts) until 3 sts remain (= 6 times in width), finish with 3 sts in garter st. NOTE: Eyelet row in A.8 does not fit in diagram but fits in total on row, first st after 3 sts in garter st should be work in stockinette st from RS.

On last row from RS insert 1 marker thread in the middle of every repetition of A.8, i.e. between: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, insert 1 marker and K 2 tog. Move the marker threads upwards when working. When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 397 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 58 cm / 22 3/4'' on the longest (measured along the middle).

Work as follows on next row from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.4 over the next 3 sts, * repeat A.9 (= 10 sts) 6 times in total in width, A.6 over the next 5 sts *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, repeat A.9 (= 10 sts) 6 times in total, A.7 over the next 3 sts, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Inc made in A.4/A.6/A.7 are worked in stocking st. Repeat A.4/A.6/A.7 vertically (make sure that A.4/A.6/A.7 are come above itself) until A.9 has been worked 1 time vertically. When A.9 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 433 sts on needle.
Piece measures approx. 65 cm / 25½'' on the longest (measured along the middle).

Then work piece in garter st as follows from RS: Work 3 sts in garter st, * A.10 (= 2 sts), work in garter st until 2 sts remain before marker thread, dec as before (i.e. slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K the next 2 tog), work in garter st until 2 sts remain before marker, work A.11 over the next 2 sts *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures 70 cm / 27½'' on the longest part. Loosely bind off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.10.2016
SHAWL: Work increases made in A.4/A.6/A.7 in stockinette, not as in A.5.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = work 2 sts in same st
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = no of sts on this row does not fit the diagram but does fit the entire shawl
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Amanda Karlsson wrote:

I have just started A9 but i think i have the wrong number of st. Shuld i include the 3 first and last st in the ammount, because if not i still have 12 left after doing everything but the last A7 and i dont understand what i am doing wrong

19.03.2023 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amanda, work the first row as follows. Start with 3 stitches in garter stitch and 3 stitches in A.4. Now, work the next section 5 times in total: 6 repeats of A.9, 5 stitches in A.5. At this point, you should have worked 331 stitches (3+3+(6x10+5)x5). Work 6 repeats of A.9 (=60 stitches), 3 stitches in A.7 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Now, you have worked over all 397 stitches (331+60+3+3=397). Happy knitting!

19.03.2023 - 19:15

country flag Amanda Karlsson wrote:

I am now starting A5. In the pattern it says that A4 and so on is included in A5, how do you mean? Do I follow all stitches as shown in the pattern or do I need to accommodate for anything?

07.03.2023 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Karlsson, when working A.4; A.6 and A.7 there are yarn overs not compensated by a decrease (see row 3 and 9), these increases are drawn in A.5, so that you can just consider A.4 and A.7 are always worked over 3 sts and A.6 over 5 sts, and A.5 will then increase by 2 sts as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

07.03.2023 - 14:34

country flag Magda wrote:

Dzień dobry, chyba właśnie o to chodzi. Markerów powinno być więcej, co na końcu nie jest wyjaśnione. Popróbowałam i wyszło mi, że powinno być tak:3 o. francuskie, A 10, o. dżersejem do markera (po dwa oczka razem z każdej strony), o. dżersejem do schematu A6 i nad nim, po obu stronach środkowego oczka schematu A6, schematy A11 i A10. itd. Na końcu, przed 3 o. oczka schemat A 11. Inaczej kształt chusty nie będzie odpowiedni. Pozdrawiam

25.10.2021 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dziękuję za feedback Magdo. Już zgłaszam korektę. Pozdrawiamy

25.10.2021 - 09:53

country flag Magda wrote:

Dzień dobry, nie rozumiem ostatniej części. Markerów jest 6, więc wzór nie wychodzi równo. Zaczyna się od A10, potem do markera i po 2 razem z każdej strony markera, do następnego markera i z jednej strony A11, a z drugiej A10 itd. Przy ostatnim markerze z obu jego stron są schematy A11 i A10, potem dżersej do końca. A co przed 3 ostatnimi oczkami francuskimi? Pozdrawiam

21.10.2021 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdo, może chodzić o to, że na początku było włożonych 7 markerów, a później jeszcze 6 nitek markerów (na środku każdego schematu A.8). Wcześniejsze markery nie zostały usunięte. Wydaje mi się, że tu powstał błąd terminologiczny. Powinnaś powtarzać następującą sekwencję: ...*A.10 (= 2 o.), przer. ściegiem francuskim aż zostaje 2 o. przed NITKĄ MARKEREM, zamykać o. jak wcześniej (…..), przer. ściegiem francuskim aż zostaje 2 o. przed MARKEREM, przer. A.11 ponad 2 nast. o.*, powt. od *-*. Napisz czy jest ok. Pozdrawiamy!

24.10.2021 - 20:43

country flag Minu wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team. Wie viele markierer müssen es bei A 10 und A 11 sein ?

16.09.2020 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Minu, die Markierungen werden in der Mitte von jedem A.8 eingesetzt = es sind 6 Markierungen (je in der Mitte von A.6/A.7). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.09.2020 - 10:11

country flag Chebot Michèle wrote:

Bonjour,\\r\\nPourrais je avoir la traduction en français pour ce modèle \\r\\nMerci infiniment \\r\\nMChebot

19.07.2018 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Chebot, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour sélectionner "français". Bon tricot!

19.07.2018 - 14:38

Genevieve wrote:

I'm on row 5 of A5. Started with 3 sts in garter st. Followed by A5 40 stitches and left with on 3 stitches for A6 instead of 5 stitches. Can enlighten what I've done wrong?

17.06.2018 - 06:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Genevieve, work A.5 as shown in diagram, ie the decreases in the middle of A.5 should be always worked over the middle sts, on row 4 you see the increases made in the other diagrams - just continue working row 5 as shown staring with K4 before YO (and ending with K4 after last YO) and working the decreases in the middle of repeat as before. Happy knitting!

18.06.2018 - 08:34

country flag Genevieve wrote:

Work next row as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, work A.4 (= 3 sts), * A.5 (= 40 sts), A.6 (= 5 sts) *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, work A.5, A.7 (= 3 sts), finish with 3 sts in garter st. Inc in A.4/A.6/A.7 is drawn in A.5 so that the pattern fits. I'm stuck here. Starting this section and can advise where do i do the increase? The pattern chart doesn\'t state any increase.

17.06.2018 - 06:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Genevieve, you are increasing in A.4, A.6 and A.7 (= see rows with YOs but without dec = row 3 and 9). These decrease are shown in A.5 - make sure you will always have the correct number of sts in A.4/A.7 (= 3 sts) and A.6 (= 5 sts), and that the YO's in these diagrams will always lined up. Happy knitting!

18.06.2018 - 08:31

country flag Lise wrote:

Je suis dans le modèle 170-12 ,dans la séquence A5 et cela fait trois fois que je détricote le troisième rang. Je comprends qu’il ne faut pas faire les augmentations,mais dans A4, A6 et A7 il y a des mailles glissé et des mailles tricoter ensemble. Donc ma question est les augmentations ont les fait plus mais les diminutions elles oui?

07.06.2018 - 12:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise, tricotez les diagrammes comme indiqué: 3 m point mousse, A.4 (= 3 m), *A.5 (= 40 m), A.6 (= 5 m) *, répétez de *-* encore 4 fois, terminez par A.5, A.7 (= 3 m) et 3 m point mousse. Les augmentations vont se faire dans A.4, A.6 et A.7 mais sont reportées au rang suivant sur les diagrammes A.5. Veillez à toujours bien tricoter A.4 et A.7 sur les mêmes 3 mailles et A.6 sur les mêmes 5 mailles (= pour que les jours soient bien alignés). Bon tricot!

07.06.2018 - 13:26

country flag Lorraine wrote:

Autre question 170-12 je suis à la section A.5 première section il me faut 48 mailles et j'en ai que 45 comment j'intègre le A.4 car il me faut 45 mailles pour le A.5A.6 et j'aurai le même problème à la fin pour A.7 merci

19.08.2017 - 04:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lorraine. Avant de commencer le diagramme A.5, vous avez 277 m. Vous tricotez le rang suivant ainsi: 3 m point mousse, A.4 1 fois (=3 m), vous répétez A.5 (=40m) + A.6 (=5 m) 5 fois en total, puis A.5 (40 m), A.7 (3m) et enfin 3 m point mousse. En total : 3+3+(40+5)*5+40+3+3= 277 m. Bon tricot.

20.08.2017 - 17:14