DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 170-28
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-029
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400 g colour no 02, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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PONCHO:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in 2 parts and sewn tog when finished.

Cast on 99-107-115-123 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm with Air. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 5 sts), A.2 (= 8 sts) 11-12-13-14 times in width. A.3 (= 4 sts), 1 edge st in garter st. NOTE: Continue edge sts in garter st until finished measurements, they become part of the moss st in pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When entire A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with pattern as follows from RS: Work A.4 (NOTE: 1st st in diagram = edge st), work 79-87-95-103 sts in stocking st, work A.5 over the last 10 sts on row (NOTE: Last st in diagram = edge st). Continue like this until piece measures 30 cm from cast-on edge. At the end of next row from WS, cast on 1 new st (marks vent) = 100-108-116-124 sts. Work the new st in garter st. I.e. there are now 2 edge sts in garter st at beg of row from RS. When piece measures 58-63-69-74 cm, work pattern, beg from row marked with star in diagram as follows: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1, A.2 11-12-13-14 times in width, A.3, 1 edge st in garter st. When diagram has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows in diagram until piece measures 66-71-77-82 cm. Cast off sts with K over P and P over K.
Cast on and work another part the same way but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
See measurement chart. Sew seam A and B with grafting/kitchener stitches. Then sew seam C and D in outer loop of edge sts. There is now a 30 cm vent in one side and a vent along the entire other side. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS

symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next row P the YO. It should make a hole.



symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = lip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 2nd time patterns A.1 to A.3 are worked, beg on this row in pattern
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Andrée Marin wrote:

A plusieurs reprises j'ai essayé d'imprimer le diagramme pour le patron. Seulement les premièeres lignes du diagramme apparessent. Comment je peux avoir tout le diagramme pour que je puisse réaliser le modèle

24.02.2019 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marin, lors de l'impression, choisissez bien le mode A.4 et pas de mise à l'échelle particulière, en gardant les en-têtes et bas de page, les diagrammes devraient tous être sur la 3ème page. Bon tricot!

25.02.2019 - 12:24

country flag Lisa H wrote:

Can this pattern be done with straight needles?

13.02.2019 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa H, sure, you are working here with circular needles to get enough room for all stitches. Happy knitting!

13.02.2019 - 14:55

country flag Lise wrote:

Bonjour , Une question qui va vous paraitre idiote mais je ne suis pas sûre au sujet des allers retours, je débute . Au debut du travail rang 1 ,je commence par A1 puis A2 puis A3 mais au 2 rang( donc envers du travail ),puisque je fais un retour , est ce que je commence par A3 ? Merci de votre patience !

19.04.2018 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lise, tout à fait, sur l'endroit, vous tricotez A.1, A.2, A.3 en lisant les diagrammes de droite à gauche et sur l'envers, vous tricotez A.3, A.2 et A.1 en lisant les diagrammes de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

20.04.2018 - 08:09

country flag Linda Haviland wrote:

I now realize that this item is knit from the bottom up.

04.04.2018 - 18:03

country flag Linda Haviland wrote:

On bottom edge, when I start at star, do I then I go up to the top and then down to the bottom of chart until I come back to star?

04.04.2018 - 03:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Haviland, on the bottom edge, work all rows in diagram A.1-A.3 - when you work the diagrams at the top edge, you will start on the row with a star (only one lace repeat at the neck). Happy knitting!

04.04.2018 - 09:09

country flag Nadège wrote:

Bonjour, Il est indiqué que ce poncho se tricote avec aiguilles circulaires en allers et retours. On peut donc suivre les explications en tricotant avec des aiguilles standard ? Merci

11.11.2017 - 22:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadège, c'est exact pour ce modèle, on tricote ici sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour toutes les mailles, si vous utilisez des aiguilles droites, veillez à bien conserver la bonne tension (les mailles seront plus serrées). Vous trouverez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

13.11.2017 - 09:47

country flag Danièle wrote:

Malheureusement, dans cette version du patron, le diagramme (pour les points de fantaisie) n'est pas indiqué. Les cases qui devraient l'indiquer sont toutes en blanc. Est-ce possible d'obtenir ce diagramme? Merci

27.05.2017 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Danièle, les diagrammes pour ce modèle sont complets et bien visibles - vous trouverez la légende des symboles juste au-dessus. Bon tricot!

29.05.2017 - 09:02

country flag Sarah LEBIGOT wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la seconde partie, il est indiqué de la faire en sens inverse et je ne comprend pas comment lire les diagrammes en sens inverse? Merci pour vos explications.

10.01.2017 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebigot, la 2ème partie doit se faire en miroir, c'est-à-dire tricotez les diagrammes comme la 1ère partie, mais montez la maille de la fente de l'autre côté pour avoir 2 m point mousse en fin de rang sur l'endroit et plus en début de rang sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

10.01.2017 - 09:47

country flag LeeAnn wrote:

Ok this still did not help me please type out how to start the second piece where in the pattern chart is it started ????? Sorry to be such a pain but I have already ripped out second piece 3 times and am frustrated.

15.09.2016 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear LeeAnn, work A.1,A.2, A.3 as on 1st piece, but after they have been worked 1 time in height, work A.4 and A.5 reversed, ie instead of working A.4, stocking st, A.5, work from RS on 2nd piece: A.5, stocking st and A.4. When piece measures 30 cm, cast on 1 st at the end of next row from RS (instead of from WS) an work this st in garter st. Hope this will help. Remember you can also get further individual assistance from the store where you bought your yarn. Happy knitting!

15.09.2016 - 17:25

country flag LeeAnn wrote:

I am even more confused regarding so classy please read all my questions which basically the same except the last one being is the second piece starting with RS or WS. the answer I got was not answering my question but rather telling me how to do the second piece . there were 2 answers telling me how to do the second piece both different , so which one is correct lPease advise how to correctly do second piece and if I am starting the chart on the RS or the WS Thank you

15.09.2016 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear LeeAnn, you are right, sorry for very first answer, at the beg of 2nd piece, work as first piece, but then work reversed all inc/moss sts so that both pieces will be mirrored. Read diagram from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS, ie as on 1st piece. Happy knitting!

15.09.2016 - 16:12