DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 169-37
DROPS design: Pattern no e-244
Yarn group A
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Measurements: 1 square measures 10½ x 10½ cm. Blanket measures approx. 90 x 130 cm.
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 18, off white
150 g colour no 10, yellow
100 g colour no 01, light pink
100 g colour no 04, green
100 g colour no 11, strong yellow
100 g colour no 28, orange
100 g colour no 50, light ice blue
50 g colour no 12, peach
50 g colour no 13, raspberry
50 g colour no 51, petrol
50 g colour no 55, cerise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 1 square to measure 10½ x 10½ cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

COLOUR COMBINATION:
Work 6 different squares and 16 squares in each colour combination (96 squares in total).

SQUARE 1:
Cast on + round 1: strong yellow. Round 2: peach Round 3-4: light pink Round 5: off white. Round 6: cerise Round 7: yellow. Round 8: off white.

SQUARE 2:
Cast on + round 1: light ice blue. Round 2: green Round 3-4: yellow. Round 5: light pink Round 6: raspberry Round 7: orange Round 8: off white.

SQUARE 3:
Cast on + round 1: yellow Round 2: strong yellow. Round 3-4: green Round 5: petrol Round 6: orange Round 7: peach Round 8: off white.

SQUARE 4:
Cast on + 1 round: light pink Round 2: cerise Round 3-4: orange Round 5: strong yellow. Round 6: off white. Round 7: light ice blue. Round 8: off white.

SQUARE 5:
Cast on + round 1: raspberry Round 2: orange Round 3-4: light ice blue. Round 5: cerise Round 6: petrol Round 7: green Round 8: off white.

SQUARE 6:
Cast on + round 1: peach Round 2: raspberry Round 3-4: off white. Round 5: light ice blue. Round 6: yellow. Round 7: light pink Round 8: off white.

COLOUR CHANGE TIP:
To get a nice transition between the colour changes, work last sl st on round with the new colour as follows: Insert hook in first ch from beg of round, make a YO with the new colour and pull YO through the loop on the hook.
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SQUARE:
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Work 5 ch on hook size 3 mm with cast-on colour and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 ch (= 1 dc), work 14 dc in ch-ring, switch colour - READ COLOUR CHANGE TIP and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 15 sts.
ROUND 2: 1 ch (= 1 dc), * work 6 ch, 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch and 1 dtr in next ch, skip 2 dc in ring, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total but switch colour before last st on round and finish last repetition with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st) = 5 sea star leaves.
ROUND 3: 8 ch (= 1 dtr + 4 ch), * 1 dc at the top of first/next sea star leaf, 4 ch, 1 dtr in dc between 2 sea star leaves, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, 1 dc at the top of last sea star leaf, 4 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 4: 1 ch (= 1 dc), then work 4 dc around every ch-space and 1 dc in every st between ch-spaces but around last ch-space work 5 dc (instead of 4) = 51 dc on round. Switch colour and finish round with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.
ROUND 5: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in next st, * 2 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 16 times in total, 2 ch, switch colour and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round = 68 sts (34 dc + 34 ch).
ROUND 6: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in next st, * 2 dc around ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 16 times in total, work 2 dc around last ch-space, switch colour and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round = 68 sts on round.
ROUND 7: 4 ch (= 1 dtr), 1 dtr in next st, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 htr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 htr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 dtr in next dc **, 2 dtr + 2 ch + 2 dtr in next dc (= corner), 1 dtr in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, work 2 dtr + 2 ch + 1 dtr in last st, switch colour and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round.
ROUND 8: 2 ch, (= 1 htr), then work 1 htr in every st the entire round but around ch-space in every corner on work 2 htr + 1 ch + 2 htr, finish round with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew blanket tog with 8 squares in width and 12 squares in length -see diagram A.3. Sew one and one length tog with off white - sew in outer loop of edge sts, first along then across.

CROCHET BORDER:
Work a final border around the entire blanket on hook size 3 mm - work diagram A.2 - start in a corner and work from RS with off white as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every st the entire round (i.e. 1 dc in every htr, 1 dc in every corner on the squares themselves, 1 dc in every transition between every square and 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every corner on the blanket itself), switch to yellow and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round.
ROUND 2: 3 ch, (= 1 tr), then work 1 tr in every dc the entire round but around ch-space in every corner on blanket work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr, at the end of round switch to strong yellow and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 3: 3 ch (= 1 tr), then work 1 tr in every tr but around ch-space in every corner on blanket work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
ROUND 4: 1 ch, 1 dc in next st, * 2 ch, 1 sl st in first ch worked, skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts on blanket *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in ch at beg of round.
Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = 5 ch, form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch
symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = dc around ring/ch-space
symbols = dc in st
symbols = htr in st/around ch-space
symbols = tr in st/around ch-space
symbols = dtr in st
symbols = 6 ch, 1 dc in third ch from hook, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dtr in last ch
symbols = this round is last round on square and is explained in diagram A.1
symbols = 1 picot: 2 ch, work 1 sl st in first ch worked, skip 1 st on blanket
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Marie Belette wrote:

Bonjour, il me semble que les instructions du texte pour le tour 7 ne correspondent ni au diagramme ni à la video. Est-ce que je me trompe?

18.12.2018 - 08:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Belette, le texte correspond tout à fait au diagramme, on crochète de *à* 4 fois au total, mais la dernière fois, on termine au niveau de ** (= après 1 DB dans la m suivante avant le coin, et on termine par 2 DB, 2 ml, 1DB dans la dernière m, puis 1 mc dans la 4ème ml du début du tour. Bon crochet!

18.12.2018 - 09:05

country flag Radha Korsoski wrote:

Pivot 2 som visas i videoklippet görs inte på anna sätt som i beskrivningen i mönstret.\r\n\r\nSka det vara 2 eller 3 luftmassor och ska det vara en luftmassa eller fast maska i första luftmassan. \r\n\r\nMed vänlig hälsning, Radha

09.08.2018 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, du ska virka som det står i mönstret, dvs. 2 luftmaskor och 1 smygmaska i den första luftmaskan.

13.08.2018 - 14:19

country flag Maria Stenfeldt wrote:

Tidigare kunde man beställa garn till ett specifikt mönster direkt från sidan. Går det inte längre eller är det bara jag som inte hittar var?

11.07.2017 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, jo det kan du, det är bara att kicka på "beställ" till höger på sidan under bilden. Lycka till!

12.07.2017 - 14:09

country flag Lion wrote:

Bonjour,j'ai terminé cette magnifique couverture ,j'en arrive l’assemblage ,cependant je ne comprends pas à quoi correspondent les chiffres de 1 à 6 sur le diagramme A3 . En vous remerciant par avance , V Lion .

06.11.2016 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lion, les chiffres 1 à 6 dans A.3 représentent chaque type de carré en fonction de l'ordre des couleurs (carrés 1 à 6). Bon assemblage!

07.11.2016 - 09:35

Maria Alice Cardoso wrote:

Muito bonito a combinações de cores. Gostaria de ver uma receita com motivos infantil

30.01.2016 - 02:09

country flag Claudia wrote:

Liebes DROPS-Team, wieviel Garn wùrde man brauchen wenn man die Decke mit nur 4 Farben häkeln möchte? Hauptfarbe bleibt weiss, und noch 3 Farben für die Sterne... Danke für Ihr Feedback! LG, Claudia

22.01.2016 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Leider können wir Ihnen keine Angaben zum ganz genauen Garnverbrauch der Einzelfarben machen und somit auch nicht zum Garnverbrauch mit weniger Farben.

30.01.2016 - 11:06

country flag Daggi wrote:

Tolle Granny Squres in hübschen Farben.

20.01.2016 - 12:14

country flag Daggi wrote:

Tolle Granny Squares und delikate Farben

20.01.2016 - 11:34

country flag Päivi wrote:

A funny feeling of fruits

27.12.2015 - 23:23