DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Saltwater

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and band collar in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-32
DROPS design: Pattern no as-059
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-225-225-250-275-300 g colour no 15, light sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE (80 cm) 6 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts x 21 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm, and 13 sts lace pattern according to diagram A.1 = width 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm - for crochet border.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to armhole, then cast on new sts for sleeve and work front and back piece separately.

BODY:
LOOSELY cast on 191-203-217-233-251-269 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts, work 31-34-36-40-43-47 sts in stocking st, insert 1 marker (marks the side), work 81-87-93-101-109-119 sts in stocking st (= back piece), insert 1 marker (marks the side), work 31-34-36-40-43-47 sts in stocking st, A.1 over the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this and move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm, adjust so that last row is worked from WS, divide the piece at the markers and finish each front piece and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 81-87-93-101-109-119 sts. Work 2 rows in stocking st and cast on 39-39-39-39-38-36 new sts for sleeves at the end of these 2 rows = 159-165-171-179-185-191 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from RS: 4 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 20 sts, work in stocking st until 24 sts remain on needle, work A.1 over the next 20 sts and finish with 4 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 68-71-74-77-80-83 cm, cast off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-23 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 70-73-75-79-81-83 sts remain on the shoulder. When piece measures approx. 69-72-75-78-81-84 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from RS - K 2 rows over all sts before LOOSELY casting off with K from RS. Jacket measures approx. 70-73-76-79-82-85 cm from shoulder and down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 55-58-62-66-71-75 sts. Work 1 row from RS as before and cast on 39-39-39-39-38-36 new sts for sleeve at the end of this row = 94-97-101-105-109-111 sts on needle. P 1 row from WS but K the first 4 sts (= sleeve edge) and work the last 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts towards mid front as before.
Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over band as before, work in stocking st until 24 sts remain on needle, work A.1 over the next 20 sts and finish with 4 edge sts in garter st (= sleeve edge). Continue the pattern like this until piece measures approx. 69-72-75-78-81-84 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS). K 2 rows but work the outermost 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts in towards mid front as before. On next row from WS, cast off the first 70-73-75-79-81-83 sts on shoulder = 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts on needle for collar. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue A.1 with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until collar measures 9-9-9-9-10-11 cm from marker. At beg of the next 3 rows from WS cast off the first 6-6-6-6-7-7 sts = 6-6-8-8-7-7 sts remain on needle. Cast off these sts on next row from WS.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. I.e. work first row from RS as before. On next row (= WS), cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of row. Continue to work next row from RS as follows: Work 4 edge sts in garter st (= sleeve edge), A.1 over the next 20 sts, work in stocking st until 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts remain on needle, continue with A.1 over the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. When piece measures approx. 69-72-75-78-81-84 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from RS, K 2 rows over the first 70-73-75-79-81-83 sts on shoulder (work the other sts as before). On next row from RS, cast off the first 70-73-75-79-81-83 sts = 24-24-26-26-28-28 collar sts remain on needle. When casting off collar sts, cast off at beg of every row from RS (instead of beg of every row from WS).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seam inside cast-off edge with 1 stitch in every st so that 2 ridges are placed towards each other on shoulder - make sure to avoid a tight seam. Sew collar tog mid back - sew WS against WS and sew collar to neck line in the back of neck (the seam should be in towards WS). Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work a finishing edge from RS up along right front piece, around the collar in the back of neck and down along left front piece on hook size 5 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk as follows: Work 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*. Work the same edge at the bottom of both sleeves but now finish round with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next st).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Heidi Kragh Mortensen wrote:

Jamen jeg forstår ikke A1 selvom I skriver der er en forklaring oven over🤗 Kan I prøve at forklare hvordan jeg skal læse A1?

13.03.2024 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi. A.1: Gjør et kast om pinnen, ta 1.maske på venstre pinne løst av pinnen som om den skulle strikkes rett (bruk høyre pinne), strikk neste maske rett, løft den løse masken over den masken som ble strikket. Dette gjentas over så mange masker det står i oppskriften. Når du skal strikke fra vrangen. (2. rad i diagrammet), strikkes alle maskene vrang. Neste pinne (3. pinne) strikkes slik: strikk 2 masker rett sammen, gjør et kast. Gjenta dette så mange ganger det står i oppskriften. Når du skal strikke 4. rad i diagrammet (vrangen), strikkes alle maskene vrang. mvh DROPS Design

18.03.2024 - 14:30

country flag Heidi Kragh Mortensen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke mønster A1? Der er ikke noget diagram som forklare hvad det er jeg skal gøre?

12.03.2024 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Heidi, jo du finder diagrammet til højre for måleskitsen og diagramforklaringen lige ovenfor :)

13.03.2024 - 15:06

country flag Marianne wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne trouve pas le dessin du diagramme sur cette page. Est-ce normal? Si non où pourrais-je le trouver? Merci Marianne

24.02.2024 - 02:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marianne, vous trouverez le diagramme A.1 (2 mailles x 4 rangs) à droite du schéma des mesures, sous la manche. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 07:54

country flag Pam wrote:

How many 25g balls do I need to make a size M cardigan?

24.10.2022 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Pam, Size M uses 225 g, which is 9 balls. Happy knitting!

25.10.2022 - 07:09

country flag Anna Schisani wrote:

Hello. When working the 9 cm rectangular on the collar, are the last rows (decreasing 3 times and casting off) worked in pattern A1 or are the simply worked in stocking stitch? Thank you.

07.02.2022 - 10:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Schisani, continue working remaining stitches in A.1 as before, and cast off 6 sts at the beginning of every WS row (right front piece)/RS row (left front piece). Happy knitting!

07.02.2022 - 11:02

country flag Inge B wrote:

Kloppen de maten bij de tekening wel? Ik heb normaal maat XL en als ik de breedtematen onderaan het vest bij elkaar optel (achterpand 67, rechtervoorpand 46 en linkervoorpand ook 46) kom ik op een breedte van 159 cm. Dat is véél meer dan de,vesten die ik heb. Op de foto ziet het vest er niet heel wijd uit.

04.02.2022 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inge,

Ja, de maten kloppen wel, het is echt een oversized vest. Het komt ook overeen met het aantal op te zetten steken.

11.02.2022 - 16:07

country flag Simonetta Seu wrote:

J ai trop mal aux epaules a tricoter avec le aiguille circulaire, il y a la possibilite d avoir le model avec les aiguilles classiques?

10.12.2021 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Seu, cette leçon explique comment adapter un modèle sur aiguille droites; dans le cas de cette veste, ce sera très simple car on utilise les aiguilles circulaires pour tricoter en allers et retours pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!

13.12.2021 - 08:34

country flag Gisela Bongart wrote:

Hallo, welche Farbe ist das beim Modell? Helles Seegrün ist es nicht, daraus hab ich nämlich einen Pullover gestrickt und die Farbe ist grünlicher.

29.10.2021 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bongart, die Farbdarstellung auf Fotos und durch die Bildschirmwiedergabe entspricht meist nicht genau der "realen" Farbe. Das Modell zeigt die genannte Farbe, auch wenn sie auf dem Foto etwas bläulicher aussieht als die echte Farbe. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

30.10.2021 - 11:59

country flag Magda wrote:

Dzień dobry, nie rozumiem jak zrobić końcówkę przodów. Czy mam najpierw zrobić 9 cm, potem w następnych 3 lewych rzędach zamykać po 6 oczek? I na końcu te pozostałe 6 oczek? A w lewym nie robi się dłuższego kołnierza? Czy robi się jak prawy tylko zamyka oczka na prawej stronie? Pozdrawiam

27.02.2021 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdo, najpierw wykonujesz część kołnierza jak w opisie, i jest to prostokąt o długości 9 cm. W 3 następnych rzędach na lewej stronie robótki zamykasz po 6 oczek w każdym, a pozostałe oczka przerabiasz jak wcześniej (w sumie zamkniesz 18 o.), górna część kołnierza ma kształt trójkąta. Na końcu zamykasz te pozostałe 6 oczek tak jak zakańczasz robótkę. Na lewym przodzie wykonujesz kołnierz tak samo (będzie symetryczny), tylko zamykasz po 6 o. na początku każdego z 3 rzędów na prawej stronie robótki. Powodzenia!

28.02.2021 - 18:38

country flag Inge Frederiksen wrote:

Denne åben jakke i Drops Brushed Alpaca I str. XXXL er mønstret over 26 m, der er to masker i overskud da mønstre går over 4 m (24).Hvad skal jeg gøre ved de 2 overskydende masker. Jeg har set opskriften i Ude og Hjemme nr. 34 2020. Venlig hilsen Inge

21.09.2020 - 14:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inge. Diagram A.1 består kun av 2 maskor, så du stickar det 13 gånger för att få det över 26 maskor. Mvh DROPS Design

22.09.2020 - 08:00