DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1178
DROPS design: Pattern no z-714
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 70 cm measured along mid sts, and approx. 140 cm at the top.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 6205, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st or 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st by making 2 YO, on next row K first YO, drop the other YO off the needle to make hole.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Inc 1 st by making 2 YO, on next row P first YO, drop the other YO off the needle to make hole.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from mid back and down. Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Work first row as follows (from RS): K 2 sts in every st = 6 sts. K 1 row. Work next row as follows: K 2 in every st until 1 st remains, K 1 = 11 sts. Insert a marker in the 6th st = mid st. Then continue in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP-1, as follows: K 1, 2 YO, K 4, 2 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 2 YO, K 4, 2 YO, K 1 = 15 sts. Continue like this by inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side and on each side of mid st with marker in on every row from RS until finished measurements - READ INCREASE TIP-2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

When there are 35 sts on needle in total, work pattern (continue edge st in garter and inc as before) as follows: A.1 (= 8 sts) until mid st, 1 st in stocking st (= mid st), A.1. NOTE: Work the sts in pattern A.1 that do not fit, i.e. after inc at beg of row and after mid st, in stocking st st until there are enough sts for a new repetition of A.1. Continue like this until A.1 has been worked 8 times vertically = 163 sts. Piece measures approx. 23 cm in knitting direction.

Now work A.2 (= 8 sts) inside 1 edge st in garter st and mid st, continue inc as before. NOTE: On 5th row in A.2 K the sts that do not fit the pattern before inc before mid st and at the end of row. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 183 sts on needle.

Now work pattern (continue edge sts and inc as before): * A.3 (= 1 st on 1st row), A.4 (= 8 sts) until 1 st remains before mid st, A.5 (= 1 st on 1st row) *, repeat from *-* after inc on each side of mid st. When enough sts have been inc inside and on each side of mid st, work A.4 over these inc sts (i.e. over every A.3 and A.5).
Continue like this until A.3-A.5 have been worked 5 times vertically = 343 sts on needle.

Now work A.2 inside 1 edge st in garter st and mid st, continue inc as before. NOTE: On 5th row in A.2 K the sts that do not fit the pattern before inc before mid st and at the end of row. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 363 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 69 cm along mid st.

Now work 1 row in stocking st from RS (continue edge sts and inc as before), AT THE SAME TIME inc 14 sts evenly (i.e. 7 sts on each side of mid st) = 381 sts. P 1 row from WS inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side.

Now work pattern (NOTE: Edge sts in garter st + inc are shown in diagram) as follows: A.6 (= 15 sts), A.7 (= 26 sts) 6 times in width, A.8 (= 19 sts), A.9 (= 20 sts), A.10 (= 26 sts) 6 times in width, A.11 (= 15 sts). Continue like this back and forth until entire diagram has been worked vertically - NOTE: Note the extra YO on each side of every st with arrow in diagram. This is done to get tips along cast-off on edge of shawl. When A.6-A.11 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 497 sts on needle.

Now insert 1 marker in every st with arrow in diagram (= 15 markers). Work 2 rows in stocking st (continue inc as before). Finish with 1 row K from WS AT THE SAME TIME inc with 1 YO on each side of every st with marker (= 30 sts inc). Loosely cast off. Cast off YOs as sts.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 2 YO. On next row work the first of the two YOs P, drop the other YO off the needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Marina wrote:

Dood day, my question is about the 'Swan Lake' shawl. Afrer having 381 stitches on needles I must knit from chart A6 till chart A11 till finishing them in hight. I counted all the increases in the charts and they are 21 in 4 charts. 21x4=84. 381+84=465 stitches and I must have them 497. Where am I mistaken? Thank you.

28.10.2023 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marina, make sure you make the correct number of yarn overs in each diagram, you should have A.6 (=40 sts)+ 6 x A.7 (= 6x28=168 sts) + A.8 (40 sts) + A.9 (41 sts) + 6 x A.10 (=6x28= 168 sts) + A.11 (= 40 sts) = 497 sts. Happy knitting!

30.10.2023 - 16:09

country flag Joke Boevé wrote:

Ik heb moeite met A.1 is dat je het patroon vanaf het begin of vanaf het midden moet tellen. En is dit met alle telpatroon van deze omslagdoek. Moet je bij steeds blijven meerderen als het eerste stuk gedaan heeft.

12.08.2022 - 15:32

country flag Joke Boevé wrote:

Na 35 st moet je beginnen A.1 is dat je die 8 st over de eerste helft moet beginnen of vanaf het midden. En moet je steeds aan het begin 2xomslag maken. Is dat met alle telpatronen van het begin breien

12.08.2022 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

De omslagen aan de zijkanten en in het midden maak je over de hele omslagdoek, dus hier ga je de hele tijd mee door. Als je 35 steken op de naald hebt brei je (na de kantsteek en de omslag) A.1 tot de middelste steek. Je begint dus gewoon bij het begin van A.1 en omdat je 35 steken hebt, brei je op de eerste naald precies 2 keer A.1 voordat je op de middelste steek bent. De gemeerderde steken brei je steeds in tricotsteek totdat je genoeg steken hebt om nog een herhaling van A.1 te breien.

14.08.2022 - 19:57

country flag Maija wrote:

Miten tuo reuna pitsi neulotaan? Kuvio A6 sitten A7 (6 kertaa?), A8 sen jälkeen A9, A10 (6 kertaa) ja lopuksi A11. Ei edes silmukat riitä. Mielestäni menisi sopivasti kun neuloo A6 ja A7 toistaen keskilinjaan saakka.

26.08.2021 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, työssä on 381 silmukkaa. Tarkistin ohjeen, ja sain kuviot mahtumaan: 15 s + 6 x 26 s (= 156 s) + 19 s + 20 + s + 6 x 26 s (= 156 s) + 15 s = 381 s.

09.09.2021 - 17:27

country flag Nettie Van Bommel wrote:

Dit patroon is fijn om te breien tot het laatste. Ik heb proeflapjes gebreid maar kom er niet uit . Als ik met A6,A7,A8 en moet breien kl op t het niet meer . Je moet er 2 steken bijmaken maar dat komt niet meer goed!,,

14.12.2019 - 19:27

country flag Nettie Van Bommel wrote:

Dit patroon is fijn om te breien tot het laatste. Ik heb proeflapjes gebreid maar kom er niet uit . Als ik met A6,A7,A8 en moet breien kl op t het niet meer . Je moet er 2 steken bijmaken maar dat komt niet meer goed!,,

14.12.2019 - 19:26

country flag Nettie Van Bommel wrote:

Dit patroon is fijn om te breien tot het laatste. Ik heb proeflapjes gebreid maar kom er niet uit . Als ik met A6,A7,A8 en moet breien kl op t het niet meer . Je moet er 2 steken bijmaken maar dat komt niet meer goed!,,

14.12.2019 - 18:34

country flag Wendie Ranner wrote:

Nearly finished, now it says increase each side if the arrows. There’s five arrow 2 of which the pattern is done six time, so that make 15 (markers) where are the other two please. Thank you

30.08.2019 - 01:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ranner, that's right, pattern has been edited, there are 15 markers and then 30 sts increased. Happy knitting!

11.09.2019 - 14:04

country flag Bernadette wrote:

Are the tips created in the last row of increases on either side of the 17 markers, the K on WS? Or do those increases occur in either of the stockinette rows? I need clarification please.

10.11.2018 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bernadette, the tips are created with the yo's on each side of the stitch with the arrow in diagrams A.7, A.8 and A.9 - + the YO's on each side of the sts with markers when working the last row K from WS before bind off. Happy knitting!

12.11.2018 - 08:55

country flag Loup wrote:

A1 ist nach der mittelmasche gemeint, dass man A1 spiegelverkehrt stricken muss? Also zuerst das zusammen stricken Umschlag Masche rechts Umschlag zusammen stricken 3 rechte Maschen gemeint? Vom Foto kann man es nicht ableiten, es würde aber Sinn machen.

04.12.2017 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Loup, so können Sie wahrscheinlich auch stricken, dh spiegelverkehrt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.12.2017 - 08:28