DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blossom Lane

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Karisma”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 165-48
DROPS design: Pattern no u-759
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g colour no 64, grey purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for garter st.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - 2 needles for cable.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to side of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts before the marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (the marker), K the next 2 tog.
Last dec, dec as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, P 2 tog, (marker), P the next 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Work until 2 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. K YOs twisted on next round.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies over A.2):
Dec 2 sts over A.2 as follows: K 1, K 2 twisted tog, K 2, K 2 tog, K 1.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band, i.e. in left side of piece seen from RS (i.e. seen from knitting direction). 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from where sts for shoulder were cast on):
SIZE S: 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm
SIZE M: 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm
SIZE L: 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm.
SIZE XL: 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
SIZE XXL: 26, 34, 42, 50, 58 and 66 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 26, 34, 42, 50, 58 and 67 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 25-29-32-35-33-41 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: P 2, * K 6, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-4-3-4 times, finish with K 5-3-3-1-6-6 and P 0-0-0-0-1-1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 2 cm, inc 1 st at the end of next row from RS = 26-30-33-36-34-42 sts. Put piece aside and knit right shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 25-29-32-35-33-41 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work 1 ridge. Then work as follows from RS: P 0-0-0-0-1-1, K 5-3-3-1-6-6, * P 3-2-3-2-2-2, K 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3-4-3-4 times, finish P 2. When piece measures 2 cm, inc 1 st at beg of next row from RS = 26-30-33-36-34-42 sts.

BACK PIECE:
Work as follows from WS (i.e. work over right shoulder to left shoulder): K 2, * P 6, K 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 2-3-3-4-3-4 times in total as before, P 6-4-4-2-6-6, K 0-0-0-0-2-2, cast on 21-22-25-26-30-30 sts for neck, K 0-0-0-0-2-2, P 6-4-4-2-6-6, * K 3-2-3-2-2-2, P 6 *, repeat from *-* 2-3-3-4-3-4 times in total, finish with K 2 = 73-82-91-98-98-114 sts. Then work as follows from RS: P 2, A.3, * P 3-2-3-2-2-2, A.3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-9-9-11-11-13 times, finish P 2. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 89-102-111-122-122-142 sts on needle. Then work A.1 over A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Repeat A.1 vertically. When piece measures 13-15-16-15-15-17 cm, inc for armholes at end of every row in each side of piece as follows: Inc 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-2 times, then cast on 2 sts 3-2-2-3-3-3 times and 3 sts 1-1-1-1-3-3 times = 111-120-129-146-158-176 sts. Work inc sts in stocking st. When all sts are inc, put piece aside and work front piece (last row = WS).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
First work shawl collar.
Cast on 17-18-19-20-22-22 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work in garter st AT THE SAME TIME work short rows, beg from WS as follows: Work 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the first 11-11-16-14-16-16 sts. Work like this until piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm at the shortest, adjust so that the next row is worked from WS. K 17-18-19-20-22-22, cast on 25-29-32-35-33-41 sts at end of row for shoulder = 42-47-51-55-55-63 sts. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts. Then work as follows on next row from RS: P 2, * K 6, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, K 6, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm from where sts for shoulder were cast on, work next row as follows from RS: P 2, * A.3, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, A.3, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 50-57-61-67-67-77 sts on needle. Then work A.1 over A.3. Repeat A.1 vertically. When piece measures 13-15-16-15-15-17 cm (adjust according to back piece, it is important to end on same row for the cables to fit onwards), inc for armhole at end of row from WS as follows: Inc 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-2 times, then cast on 2 sts 3-2-2-3-3-3 times and 3 sts 1-1-1-1-3-3 times = 61-66-70-79-85-94 sts. Work inc sts in stocking st. When all sts are inc, put piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. when working short rows over shawl collar, start from RS. Cast on new sts for shoulder at the end of row from RS. Work first row after 1 ridge on shoulder from WS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, K 2, P 6, * K 3-2-3-2-2-2, P 6 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times, finish with K 2. Inc for armhole at end of row from RS.

BODY:
It is important to finish all part on same row.
Slip all sts on to same circular needle size 4 mm = 233-252-269-304-328-364 sts. Insert 1 marker between each part (= 2 markers in the side). Insert 1 marker thread in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Move the markers upwards when working, the marker thread stays. On first row (= from RS) continue pattern as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.1, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, 22-18-18-24-36-34 in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these sts), P 2, A.1, * P 3-2-3-2-2-2, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 7-9-9-11-11-13 times in total, P 2, 22-18-18-24-36-34 in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these sts), P 2, * A.1, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above - on right band.

Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4-4-4-5-2-2 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 4th-6th-6th-4th-4th-4th row 10-8-8-11-17-16 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm, inc 1 st in every P section on next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.1, 1 YO, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, stocking st over the remaining sts in stocking st, P 2, A.1, * P 3-2-3-2-2-2, 1 YO, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 7-9-9-11-11-13 times in total, P 2, stocking st over the remaining sts in stocking st, P 2, * A.1, 1 YO, P 3-2-3-2-2-2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. K YOs twisted on next row, i.e. P them from RS.

SIZE XXL + XXXL:
When piece measures 20 cm, repeat inc in every P section on next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.1, 1 YO, P 3-3 *, repeat from *-* 5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, stocking st over the remaining sts in stocking st, P 2, A.1, * P 3-3, 1 YO, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 11-13 times in total, P 2, stocking st over the remaining sts in stocking st, P 2, * A.1, 1 YO, P 3-3 *, repeat from *-* 5-6 times in total, A.1, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st.

ALL SIZES:
When all the sts in stocking st have been dec, there are 202-233-250-277-298-346 sts on needle.

SIZE M + XL:
When all the sts in stocking st have been dec, dec as follows: On next row from RS, dec the 4 P sts in each side to 3 P sts as follows: P the first 2 tog = 231-275 sts.

ALL SIZES:
= 202-231-250-275-298-346 sts. There are now 4-3-4-3-4-4 sts P in every P section and 2 P sts towards band in each side. Work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.1, P 4-3-4-3-4-4 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain (= 15-19-19-23-23-27 times in total), A.1, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm, adjust so that 1 whole repetition of A.1 has been worked. Now work A.2 over A.1. Repeat A.2 until finished measurements.

SIZE M + XL:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25-27 cm, inc on next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.2, P 1, 1 YO, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain, A.2, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st (= 19-23 sts inc) = 250-298 sts. K YO twisted on next row, i.e. P them from RS. There are now 4-4 sts P in every P section and 2 P sts towards band in each side.

ALL SIZES:
= 202-250-250-298-298-346 sts. When piece measures 24-26-26-28-28-29 cm, work as follows on next row from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.2, P 1, then work cable over the next 2 sts as follows: Slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain (= 15-19-19-23-23-27 times in total), A.2, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. The 2 sts worked in cable are now worked in stocking st.

When piece measures 25-27-27-29-29-30 cm, inc follows on next row from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.2, P 1, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain, A.2, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st (= 15-19-19-23-23-27 sts inc) = 217-269-269-321-321-373 sts. P YO twisted on next row, i.e. work inc sts in stocking st. Repeat inc when piece measures 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm, work next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.2, P 1, K 2, 1 YO, K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain, A.2, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st (= 15-19-19-23-23-27 sts inc) = 232-288-288-344-344-400 sts. Repeat inc with 1 YO every 3-4-3-5-4-7 cm alternately on each side of A.2 and P sts inside 1 st in stocking st (i.e. work next inc as follows: A.2, P 1, K 1, 1 YO, K 3, P 1) 6-4-5-3-4-2 more times = 12-10-11-9-10-8 sts between each A.2 = 322-364-383-413-436-454 sts. Work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, P 2, * A.2, P 1, K 10-8-9-7-8-6, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain, A.2, P 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm from marker (= 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm in total). Finish when 5 rows have been worked after a cable row in A.2. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 2 sts over each A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP 2 (= 32-40-40-48-48-56 sts dec) = 290-324-343-365-388-398 sts. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 46-48-50-52-52-54 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work next round as follows: K 19-20-21-22-22-23, P 1, A.3, P 1, K 19-20-21-22-22-23. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts on needle. Then work A.2 over A.3. Repeat A.2 until finished measurements. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 12-12-11-9-12-10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2½-2-2-2-1½-1½ cm 13-15-16-17-19-20 more times = 76-82-86-90-94-98 sts. When piece measures 48-47-45-44-44-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), continue pattern AT THE SAME TIME work back and forth and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6-6-7-7-9-9 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 57-56-55-54-55-53 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts over cable. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 58-57-56-55-56-54 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back. Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle no 1 in front of piece, slip the next 2 sts on cable needle no 2 in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle no 1, K 2, K 2 from cable needle no 2.
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next row
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Jane wrote:

What do you mean by ‘remember the gauge’ when knitting the shoulders?

19.05.2019 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, it's just a small reminder that you should keep same tension as you had when checking your swatch first - to be sure that the finished project will have correct measurements. Happy knitting!

20.05.2019 - 13:48

country flag Crystel wrote:

Bonjour, Ce n'est pas clair pour moi pour le col en rangs raccourcis. Je fais la taille L, est-ce que ça veut dire que je tricote *2 rangs sur 19 mailles et 2 rangs sur 16 mailles * et ainsi de suite sur 9 cm ? D'avance merci pour votre réponse.

30.10.2016 - 10:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chrystel, c'est exact, tricotez ainsi jusqu'à ce que le col mesure 9 cm du côté le plus court (pas côté des rangs raccourcis qui sera automatiquement plus long). Bon tricot!

31.10.2016 - 10:43

country flag Metzger Anneliese wrote:

Vos vestes sont tres belle ,la laine aussi .pourquoi commencer les vestes par le haut je trouve cela complique et le tricot devient tres lourd

22.01.2016 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Metzger, nos différents modèles se tricotent de façon différentes: de haut en bas (comme ici), de bas en haut, en 1 pièce jusqu'aux emmanchures ou chaque pièce séparément ... en fonction du choix de la styliste, du modèle etc. Bon tricot!

25.01.2016 - 09:30

country flag Jocelyne Brassard wrote:

Peut on faire ce modèle simplement en point Jersey . Si oui, la quantité de laine est-t-elle la même et le nombre de mailles est-t-il le même? Merci

18.09.2015 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brassard, pour une veste en jersey, la quantité de fil sera différente mais le nombre de mailles également. Il est recommandé dans ce cas de faire une recherche pour un modèle jersey. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider si nécessaire. Bon tricot!

19.09.2015 - 09:45

country flag Eija Auvo wrote:

Ihana jakku! Etukappaleiden nappilistat tosin vetävät kuvassa ryppyyn. Vaihtoehtona on kutoa nappilistassa kerroksen viimeinen silmukka nurin ja nostaa seuraavan kerroksen ensimmäinen silmukka kutomatta. Näin siihen tulee ketjusilmukkareuna, joka ei vedä. // Underbar kofta! Sidorna på knapplistan ser ut att dra sig. Ett alternativ är att sticka den sista maskan på varvet avigt och lyfta den första maskan på följande varv utan att sticka den. Då blir sidan som en kedja som inte drar sig.

24.06.2015 - 16:07

country flag Karin wrote:

Wonderful, thats the pattern I was looking for.

23.06.2015 - 21:28

country flag José wrote:

Mooi getailleerd model met prachtige kabels. Helemaal mijn ding. Wat ik wat jammer vind is dat de voorpanden wat op trekken.

13.06.2015 - 16:23

country flag Ellis wrote:

Very nice jacket, think I make a picot edge that makes it less sloppy. I cannot see if there is a collar or not but I like it if the edges are double knitted. Nice cables.

08.06.2015 - 20:58

country flag Uschi wrote:

Perfekt, auch für grössere Damen :-)

04.06.2015 - 09:23

country flag Monica wrote:

Den känns som jag kan börja sticka nu

03.06.2015 - 21:36