DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Petunia

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern, worked top down in 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk” or 1 strand “Melody”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 164-45
DROPS design: Pattern no as-047
Yarn group C+C or D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour no 03, grey
75-75-75-100-100-100 g colour no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 07, red
25-25-50-50-50-50 g colour no 06, coral

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 04, grey
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 12, cherry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 13, rose

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 14 sts in stocking st with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand Melody = 10 cm in width.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - for edge in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
Work diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size and beg on round marked with arrow for correct size). Work entire pattern in stocking st in 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk (= BAS) or 1 strand Melody (= M).

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To calculate how often inc should be done on a increase round, use the total no of sts on needle (e.g. 54 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 12 sts) = 4.5. I.e. in this example inc after alternately every 4th and 5th st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 54-54-58-58-62-62 sts on circular needle size 6 mm with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand off white Melody. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm and K 1 round while inc 12-18-14-17-13-16 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 AND INCREASE TIP-2 = 66-72-72-75-75-78 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size = 22-24-24-25-25-26 repetitions of 3 sts). READ KNITTING TIP and inc as shown in diagram = 88-96-96-100-100-104 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
Continue to inc as follows:
On round marked with arrow-1 in diagram inc 30-34-38-46-50-54 sts evenly - remember INCREASE TIP-2 = 118-130-134-146-150-158 sts.
On round marked with arrow-2 in diagram inc 30-30-34-34-38-38 sts evenly = 148-160-168-180-188-196 sts.
On round marked with arrow-3 in diagram inc 20-20-24-24-28-32 sts evenly = 168-180-192-204-216-228 sts.
On round marked with arrow-4 in diagram inc 12-12-16-20-24-24 sts evenly = 180-192-208-224-240-252 sts.
On round marked with arrow-5 in diagram inc 10-10-14-10-14-14 sts evenly = 190-202-222-234-254-266 sts.
When A.1 has been worked, piece measures approx. 19-21-21-22-23-23 cm from cast-on edge. Work next round as follows with 2 strands grey Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand grey Melody: K 54-58-66-72-80-84 (= back piece), slip the next 41-43-45-45-47-49 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts (= under sleeve), K 54-58-66-72-80-84 (= front piece), slip the next 41-43-45-45-47-49 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts (= under sleeve).

BODY:
= 120-128-144-160-176-184 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. K 1 round with grey. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (= 15-16-18-20-22-23 repetitions of 8 sts). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stocking st with grey until finished measurements (with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/1 strand Melody). Work until piece measures 35-35-37-38-39-41 cm. Approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on for desired length. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Work 4 ridges and LOOSELY cast off. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 7 mm. K 1 round with grey and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts at the end of round = 47-49-51-53-55-57 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts (= mid under sleeve) and insert 1 marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (st with star in diagram should fit with st with marker mid on top of sleeve – count outwards from where round beg). When piece measures 2-2-3-3-4-4 cm, dec on each side of marker mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 5½-5-4-4-3½-3½ cm a total of 7-8-9-9-10-10 times = 33-33-33-35-35-37 sts. AT THE SAME TIME after A.2 work in stocking st with grey until finished measurements (with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/1 strand Melody). Work until piece measures 43-42-42-42-42-42 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on for desired length. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm. Work 4 ridges and LOOSELY cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 45-44-44-44-44-44 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.09.2015
New yarn amount in Melody

Diagram

symbols = 2 strands off white BAS or 1 strand off white M
symbols = 2 strands grey BAS or 1 strand grey M
symbols = 2 strands red BAS or 1 strand cherry M
symbols = 2 strands coral BAS or 1 strand rose M
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts with 2 strands off white BAS or 1 strand off white M, on next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes
symbols = increase round
symbols = mid st
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Silv wrote:

Da ich bisher keine Antwort erhalten habe, möchte ich noch einmal nach der Reihenanzahl für die Maschenprobe fragen. Freue mich über eine kurze Rückmeldung!

20.11.2022 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Silv, Entchuldigung, es sieht so aus, daß wir Ihre Frage verpasst haben; die Maschenprobe ist 14 Reihe und 16 Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.11.2022 - 09:09

country flag Silv wrote:

Wie soll die Maschenprobe aussehen? Es ist keine Anzahl der Reihen angegeben worden... Viele Grüße

13.10.2022 - 10:10

country flag Louison wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le diagramme 1. Il commence par 3 cases /1blanc/3 cases/1blanc/3 cases. A quoi correspond le blanc entre les 3 cases? Merci

29.12.2020 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louison, cet espace correspond aux mailles qui seront ajoutées ensuite (= au 4ème rang on fait 1 jeté), autrement dit, on tricote: *1 m naturel, 1 m gris, 1 m naturel*,et on répète de *-* tout le tour, et pendant 3 tours. Bon tricot!

04.01.2021 - 12:01

country flag Stephanie wrote:

I am working on understanding the sleeve instructions. I have 53 stitches (size XL), which is not perfectly divisible by 8 stitches (the number of stitches in A.2). After having 6 repeats of A.2, what do I do with the remaining 5 stitches? Should I make a miniature A.2, or spread out the 5 stitches between the A.2 repeats? If the latter, where is the recommended place where two adjacent A.2 motifs don’t have an extra stitch between them—the top or the underside of the sleeve?

14.08.2020 - 08:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stephanie, diagram A.2 should be centered on mid upper sleeve - this lesson explains how to center a diagram. Happy knitting!

14.08.2020 - 11:07

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Can you explain the meaning of the arrow+star symbol/"mid st" from the diagram better ? I only see the star symbol by itself, which I understand corresponds to the coral BAS/rose M yarns. Where is the arrow+star symbol used?

30.01.2020 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stephanie, the arrow with star is used in A.2 to mark the middle stitch. Happy knitting!

31.01.2020 - 07:17

country flag Pia Wettergren wrote:

Ang. det grå: jeg fik 8 gram til overs ! Til gengæld er der 20 gram hvid, 16 gram rust og 35 gram stålblå til overs. Synes ikke ,at garn mængden er helt ok. Jeg kunne have undværet et nøgle blåt ! Til gengæld stor bekymring omkring det grå

02.01.2020 - 19:04

country flag Pia Wettergren wrote:

Jeg har lige bestilt garn til str M i Brushed Alpaca Silk og er da blevet lidt bekymret - har jeg købt nok grå? Flere skriver, at det er for lidt? Jeg handler på nettet, så det er ikke smart, hvis jeg har bestilt for lidt. Hvad er der med strikkefasthed/længde? kan jeg få et fif til at strikke den nedefra? På forhånd tak for svar:-)

22.10.2019 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, der skal altså være nok garn, vi ved at mange har strikket den (vi har kun fået én kommentar om at der er for lidt) . Du skal få 14 masker på 10 cm i bredden. Det er mindst lige så let at strikke ovenfra og ned og fordelen er at man kan måle og tilpasse undervejs. God fornøjelse!

23.10.2019 - 13:55

country flag Astrid wrote:

Genseren er flott og den var morsom å strikke, passer perfekt i str. medium, som jeg vanligvis bruker. Men garnmengden som er angitt i Brushed Alpaca Silk passer ikke helt. Særlig irriterende var det å få for lite grått garn, 6 nøster (150 g) ble for lite, 175 hadde vært passe. Det står 50 g rødt (2 nøster), men det hadde fint klart seg med ett nøste (25 g) rød. Der fikk jeg halvannet nøste til overs.

21.04.2019 - 09:20

country flag Sonja wrote:

Hvorfor bruges der ikke dobbelt tråd med Drops Melody? Bliver trøjen ikke fastere ved dobbelttråd? Jeg synes at Drops Melody som enkelttråd kan blive meget slasket/løs i det. Mvh Sonja

27.03.2019 - 22:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sonja. Om man strikker med 2 tråder vil plagget bli tykkere, og da sikkert virke fastere. Melody er jo et luftig garn. Det er strikkefastheten som avgjør om du kan strikke med 1 eller 2 tråder, og i denne oppskriften er strikkefastheten 14 masker glattstrikk i bredden = 10 cm. Du kan derfor ikke strikke med 2 tråder Melody, da du vil få altfor få masker på pinnen. Målene på plagget vil da bli mye større enn angitt. Om du ikke vil strikke med Melody kan du feks strikke med 2 tråder Brushed Alpaca Silk (som tilsvarer 1 tråd Melody). God fornøyelse

04.04.2019 - 14:48

Freddie wrote:

Sorry but this does not answer my question - I am not intending to use an alternative yarn but the DROPS alpaca/silk specified in the pattern so my question is how many balls of this yarn would I order of the main colour (gray) to knit a sweater in size small?

16.11.2016 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Freddie, in size S you will need: if you use Brushed Alpaca Silk: 125/25 g a ball = 5 balls gray no 03 and if you use Melody: 150/50 g a ball = 3 balls gray no 04. Happy knitting!

17.11.2016 - 09:02