DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Carter

Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Belle, with raglan and worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1131
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-004
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-550-600-650-750-800 g colour no 09, beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan by working a YO on each side of A.1 in every raglan. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 114-117-120-123-126-129 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Belle. K 1 round. Then work rib (= K 1/P 2). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm when piece measures 2 cm. Now continue piece in stocking st. On first round dec 18-17-16-15-14-13 sts evenly = 96-100-104-108-112-116 sts (this is done to give the garment better shape). On next round, inc 24-26-30-40-48-70 sts evenly = 120-126-134-148-160-186 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back. On next round work as follows from mid back: K 17-18-20-24-27-33 (= half back piece), A.1, K 6, A.1 (= sleeve), K 34-37-41-48-54-67 (= front piece), A.1, K 6, A.1 (= sleeve ), K 17-19-21-24-27-34 (= half back piece). Continue pattern like this while AT THE SAME TIME working an elevation in the back as follows: Work 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and work 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more for every turn until a total of 64 sts have been worked after last turn, turn and work 1 round over all sts until mid back again. On next round start inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above - NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc every round 0-4-4-4-4-4 times in total, then every other round 28-27-29-30-32-33 times. There are 90-99-107-116-126-141 sts on front and back piece.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc every other round 16-19-21-22-24-27 times, then every 4th round 6-5-5-5-5-4 times. There are 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts for each sleeve.

When all inc are done there are 320-346-370-392-420-458 sts on needle. On next round, work as follows: K 45-49-53-58-63-70, slip the next 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), K 90-99-107-116-126-141, slip the next 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts), K 45-50-54-58-63-71 = 196-214-230-248-268-298 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 14-14-14-30-30-30 cm 2-2-2-1-1-1 more times = 184-202-218-240-260-290 sts. When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-17-16-15-16-13 sts evenly = 204-219-234-255-276-303 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib = K 1/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm, loosely cast off K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 70-74-78-80-84-88 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts = 78-82-86-88-92-96 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME continue A.1 as follows: Inc 1 YO before A.1 up towards middle of sleeve, K 2 tog after A.1 towards under sleeve (i.e. the 8 new sts cast on under sleeve). This is done so that A.1 meets under sleeve and disappears, repeat dec every other round until all sts in both A.1 are gone. K YO twisted on next round, it should not make holes. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3-3-2½-2½ cm 11-12-13-13-14-15 more times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts.

Work in stocking st until piece measures 51-50-50-50-49-49 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-4-5-3-4-2 sts evenly = 60-60-63-63-66-66 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = K 1/P 2. Cast off when piece measures 55-54-54-54-53-53 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

POCKET:
Cast on 23 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Belle. Continue in stocking st back and forth with 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side of piece. When piece measures 8 cm, adjust so that next row is from WS, inc 4 sts evenly from WS = 27 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, rib = K 1/P 2 until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 10 cm, cast off K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the pocket on the left sleeve, approx 45 cm from cast off edge.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Blanquet Elysabeth wrote:

Bonjour, juste une remarque, autant Drops a bien renouvelé les modèles femmes pour les modèles hommes ce n'est pas le cas! les modèles sont assez anciens, des années 90 sans doute. je cherche un modèle pour homme tout simple pour le printemps/été en Belle, j'aime bien cette matière. Mais à part celui ci qui ne me satisfait pas vraiment, il n'y a pas grand choix. cordialement

12.04.2021 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blanquet, vous pourrez trouver ici tous les modèles de pull homme tricotés dans un fil du groupe B, comme Belle, si vous ne trouvez pas votre bonheur, vous pouvez adapter un modèle femme - cf ce point de la FAQ. Bon tricot!

13.04.2021 - 07:52

country flag Victoria wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote la taille M et je suis bloquée à la première étape du raglan Dos et Devant : Augmenter 0-4-4-4-4-4 fois au total tous les tours, puis 28-27-29-30-32-33 fois tous les 2 tours. Je ne comprends pas "x fois tous les tours/tous les 2 tours" Dois-je augmenter après et avant A1 du dos et devant (soit 4 en tout) sur 1 tour (combien de tour représente "tous les tours dans ce cas ?") et puis 27 tours en augmentant à ces mêmes endroits 1 tour sur 2 ? Merci beaucoup

28.03.2021 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Victoria, en M, vous augmentez: pour le devant/le dos d'abord 4x tous les tours puis 27x tous les 2 tours; en même temps, vous augmentez pour les 19x tous les 2 tours et 5x tous les 4 tours; autrement dit vous augmentez soit 8 m (= devant/dos + manches) soit 4 m seulement par tour (= quand vous augmentez tous les tours pour le devant et le dos mais tous les 2 tours pour les manches). Bon tricot!

06.04.2021 - 08:02

country flag TP wrote:

Hei! Pitäisikö hihan pituus todellakin olla alle 4cm siinä vaiheessa kun A1:n silmukat on ”hävitetty”? Minulla pituus on jostain syystä lähemmäs 10cm. Ymmärsinhän oikein että hihan alun kavennukset ja levennykset tehdään symmetrisesti molemmilla puolilla?

21.03.2021 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, piirroksen A.1 silmukoiden vähentäminen jatkuu vielä sen jälkeen kun kavennukset keskellä hihan alla on aloitettu.

22.03.2021 - 16:43

country flag Alexander wrote:

Hello! I'm confused about the increasing. I understand that Y/Os are worked on each side of the A.1s but if I understand correctly this only adds 4 new stitches. Should I add 4 more increases in the 6 stitches between the A.1s? Also, when working the raglan body increases, should I aim for an even distribution of increases ending with 45 stitches ea in the front and back panels? Lastly, should ALL increases be worked as Y/Os or should the ones not adjacent to A.1 be worked as KFB? Thank you!

20.03.2021 - 04:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alexander, you will increase 2 sts on each piece (front, back piece or sleeves), but the increases are worked on a different rythm on body and sleeve, ie you will increase alternately 8 sts (= body + sleeves) or only 4 sts (body only when increasing on every round - except in first size). The yarn over should be worked after A.1 at the beg of piece that should be indreased + before the A.1 at the end of piece that should be increased. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

22.03.2021 - 07:30

country flag Anne-Marie Bourgeois wrote:

I'm confused with the raglan part. Do we do the raglan body and raglan sleeve at the same time, or we start with raglan body first for 64 round and then start the raglan sleeve ? Also it says to Inc differently on body and sleeves. What type of increase do we do for sleeve ?

07.11.2020 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bourgeois, raglan will be worked on a different rythm on body and on sleeves, ie depending on the size you will increase 4 sts (= body or sleeves only) or 8 sts (body and sleeves). Raglan increased are done with yarn over - see RAGLAN; Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

09.11.2020 - 10:13

country flag Susan Underwood wrote:

A1 disappear way after 4cm. So do you decrease every row once either side of marker or twice I.e. k2, k2 work to last 4 sts slk1, sl1k1. at 4cm ?

01.07.2020 - 15:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Underwood, A.1 is not supposed to disappear, the stitches worked in A.1 are the raglan stitches, they are worked at the transition between front/back piece and sleeves - and you will increase either/or after A.1 at the beg of front/back/sleeve and/or before A.1 at the end of front/back/sleeve. See RAGLAN. Happy knitting!

01.07.2020 - 16:26

country flag Fabienne wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais être sûre d'une chose, la rehausse déborde bien sur le haut des manches ?

15.06.2020 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fabienne, tout à fait. Bon tricot!

16.06.2020 - 08:57

country flag Hayley De Gee wrote:

Hi!! I've read through the part of SLEEVE and cannot understand the process of how both A1's disappear under the sleeve. I also don't know how where exactly to YO and K2tog. My understanding after increasing the 8 stitches would be to knit until before A1 , then YO, [k1, P2, K4,P2,K1=A1 pattern], then K2tog, k4, YO,{K1,P2,K4,P2,K1=A1 pattern] THEN K2tog???? PLS HELP :( I'm totally confused.. its my 1st time doing a raglan and I have 4 more days before my man's birthday

24.05.2020 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs De Gee, mid under sleeve there are: A.1, new sts picked up, A.1 - you have to increase on either side of these sts and decrease between both A.1: work until before first of both A.1 mid under sleeve,YO, A.1, work until 2 sts remain before marker mid under sleeve, K2 tog, K2 tog, work to A.1, work A.1, YO - you increased 2 sts. Continue like this decreasing with K2 tog on each side of marker mid under sleeve + 1 yarn over on either side of these sts until all sts in A.1 will have disappear (the new sts are worked in stockign st). Happy knitting!

25.05.2020 - 10:26

country flag Marie-Laure wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous remercie pour vos explications. Du coup, j'ai commencé avec les aiguilles circulaires :-) Il est noté qu'à 4 cm de hauteur, il faut diminuer 1 m de chaque côté du marqueur et cela 11 fois pour le modèle S. Pourquoi arrive-t'on alors à 54 mailles et non 56 (78 - 22) ? Par ailleurs, je dois bien faire en même temps ces diminutions dès 4 cm de hauteur (calculé depuis sous la manche) et poursuivre les augmentations avec les jetés ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

10.04.2020 - 16:48

Marie-Laure answered:

Bonjour, Désolée, je vous ai dérangé pour rien. Je n'avais pas compté le premier tour ;-). Pas nécessaire de me répondre. Merci et joyeuses pâques !

11.04.2020 - 17:28

country flag Marie-Laure wrote:

N'ayant pas reçu de réponse, je pense que je vais essayer d'utiliser des aiguilles circulaires ;-) Dommage, c'était l'occasion pour moi d'apprendre à tricoter avec les aiguilles double pointes. Merci et bonne journée.

08.04.2020 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Laure, désolée pour la réponse tardive, rappelez-vous toujours que vous pouvez toujours consulter notre base de données de leçons et vidéos pour vous aider, et également contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

09.04.2020 - 16:48