DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 164-46
DROPS design: Pattern no x-407
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
750-800-900-1000-1100-1200 g colour no 11, dark red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 180-196-212-228-252-268 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alaska. Beg round = side. Work as follows:

Size S-M-L-XL: P 1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 16-20-24-28 sts, A.3 a (= 8 sts), A.2 a (= 40 sts), A.1 a (= 8 sts), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 32-40-48-56 sts, P 2, A.3 a, A.2 a, A.1 a, * P 2, K 2 * over the next 16-20-24-28 sts, finish with P 1.

Size XXL-XXXL: K 1, P 2, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 32-36 sts, A.3 a (= 8 sts), A.2 a (= 40 sts), A.1 a (= 8 sts), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 68-76 sts, P 2, A.3 a, A.2 a, A.1 a, * P 2, K 2 * over the next 32-36 sts, finish with P 2, K 1.

When A.3 a, A.2 a and A.1 a have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows (switch to circular needle size 5 mm): Stocking st over the first 17-21-25-29-35-39 sts, A.3 b, A.2 b, A.1 b, stocking st over the next 34-42-50-58-70-78 sts, A.3 b, A.2 b, A.1 b, stocking st over the last 17-21-25-29-35-39 sts. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Insert 1 marker in each side; 1 at the beg of round and one after 90-98-106-114-126-134 sts (= sides). When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm, cast off 3 sts on each side of each marker in each side, then finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 84-92-100-108-120-128 sts. Continue pattern as before. Cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-3-5-6 times and 1 sts 1-2-3-3-4-5 times = 78-80-82-84-86-88 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, dec 8 sts evenly over A.2, on next row cast off the middle 30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to dec 1 st on next row from neck = 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts remain on the shoulder. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, dec 4 sts evenly over A.1/A.3 = 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Continue cast off and dec for armhole as on back piece = 78-80-82-84-86-88 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, slip the middle 28 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each side separately. Continue dec towards the neck every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times. After all dec are done, 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, dec 4 sts evenly over A.1/A.3 = 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 46-46-50-50-54-54 sts on double pointed needle size 4.5 mm with Alaska. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work as follows:
Size S-M-XXL-XXXL: K 1, * P 2/K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-4 times, A.4 a (= 20 sts), * K 2/P 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-4 times, finish with K 1.
Size L-XL: P 1, K 2, * P 2/K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3 times, A.4 a (= 20 sts), * K 2/P 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3 times, finish with K 2, P 1.

When the first 10 rounds of A.4 have been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work as follows: 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts in stocking st, A.4 a, 13-13-15-15-17-17 sts in stocking st. When A.4 a has been worked one time vertically, work A.4 b over sts in A.4 a, continue with stocking st over the remaining sts. Now repeat A.4 b vertically. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 4-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 8-11-11-13-13-16 more times (= inc 9-12-12-14-14-17 times in total) = 64-70-74-78-82-88 sts. When piece measures 47-46-46-45-44-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. NB! Cast of in row 2, 4 or 6 after last cable, to ensure that following cables will be on RS. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-6-9 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side and dec 8 sts evenly over sts in A.4. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

NECK:
Pick up 92-92-96-96-100-100 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. P 1 round while dec 8 sts evenly = 84-84-88-88-92-92 sts. Work rib K 2/P 2 in the round. When piece measures 10 cm, inc all K 2 to K 3 = 105-105-110-110-115-115 sts. When piece measures 20 cm, inc all K 3 to K 4 = 126-126-132-132-138-138 sts. When neck measures 26 cm, cast off K over K and P over P.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.02.2016
Correction: New diagram A.2a.
Updated online: 24.08.2016
Correction: A.1 and A.3 has been switched around. Pattern online ok!

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 4, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Diane wrote:

Mooie trui, wel jammer dat er in de trui van de afbeelding een fout te zien is. De grote kabel moet nl. volgens patroon 2x gewisseld worden op de foto is dit (bij de eerste) zowel links als rechts aan de buitenkant slechts 1x gebeurd. Dot bracht mij even op een dwaalspoor.

23.02.2019 - 15:39

country flag Mayou wrote:

J'ai encore une question: je ne comprends pas, pour les manches: "NB: Rabattre au rang 2, 4 ou 6 après la dernière torsade pour que les torsades soient bien sur l'endroit"?

02.01.2019 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mayou, les manches se tricotent d'abord en rond, puis en allers et retours, il faut donc rabattre au "bon" rang pour qu'il y ait toujours le même nombre de rangs entre les torsades pour l'arrondi de la manche et que les torsades puissent être également sur un rang sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

02.01.2019 - 15:08

country flag Mayou wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas quand vous dites: répartir X diminutions au-dessus de A2 (ou A1/A3). Merci pour vos éclaircissements.

02.01.2019 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mayou, les torsades exigent plus de mailles en largeur, pour éviter que les mailles rabattues soient tout à coup plus large, diminuez le nombre de mailles indiqué dans les diagrammes correspondant. Cette vidéo montre comment procéder. Bon tricot!

02.01.2019 - 13:06

country flag Inge wrote:

Hallo, het is mij niet helemaal duidelijk of deze trui heen en weer gebreid wordt, of rond. Heb ik voor maat S rondbreinaalden 60 mm of 80 mm nodig? Alvast bedankt

16.01.2018 - 19:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Inge, Je breit de trui op de rondbreinaald, maar bij de armsgaten brei je het achterpand en het voorpand apart van elkaar verder, heen en weer gebreid. Dit laatste kan met der rondbreinaald of rechte naalden met knop. Voor maat S zou 60 cm genoeg moeten zijn, maar zelf gebruik ik voor een trui liefst een grotere maat, zodat ik de trui af en toe kan passen tijdens het breien. De naald is dan te lang voor het aantal steken, maar hiervoor kun je de magic loop techniek die in deze video uitgelegd wordt, gebruiken.

17.01.2018 - 11:11

country flag Dea wrote:

Ho bisogno un chiarimento. Sto facendo il collo e mi dice di aumentare le 2 dir a 3 dir e poi le 3 dir a 4 dir. Il collo essendo alla fine verrà piegato e quindi le maglie si vedranno diversamente rispetto a quando vengono lavorate. Ora che lavoro tenendo il diritto del lavoro verso di me, le 2 dir passano a 3 dir, ma quando verrà piegato queste diventeranno 3 rovesce. Quindi cosa vedrò dopo averlo piegato 4 dir e 2 rov o 4 rov e 2 dir?

03.12.2017 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea. Alla fine degli aumenti, sul diritto del lavoro, le coste saranno 4 m dir / 2 m rov. Ripiegato, vedrà 4 m rov / 2 m dir. Buon lavoro!

03.12.2017 - 21:01

country flag Dea wrote:

A cosa corrispondono le misure "8-9-10-11-13-15" cm nel disegno del modello? Cosa rappresentano? Grazie

03.11.2017 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea. I numeri corrispondono alla parte della manica, lavorata dall'intreccio per lo scalfo alla fine della manica stessa. P.es. per la taglia S: intreccia per gli scalfi quando la manica misura 47 cm e intreccia le ultime maglie a 55 cm. La parte lavorata dagli scalfi alla fine misura 55 - 47 = 8 cm. Analogamente per le altre taglie. Buon lavoro!

04.11.2017 - 00:00

country flag Mona wrote:

Feil i forklaringen på vrangbord. Det står...*2r2vr* gjenta**over de neste 16m. Det samme står det nevnt to ganger til. Men det skal ikke stå gjenta.....da får man for få masker på slutten. Derimot skal det stå 2r2vr over de neste 16m....samme på to steder til.

22.10.2017 - 19:22

country flag Dea wrote:

Avrei bisogno un piccolo chiarimento. Alla fine della manica dice "... poi intrecciare 3 m 1 volta a ogni lato e distribuire 8 diminuzioni in modo uniforme sulle m in A.4." Le 8 maglie le devo diminuire durante lo stesso ferro in cui diminuisco le prime tre maglie oppure le faccio da sole dopo avere fatto entrambe le dimnuzioni? Grazie.

30.01.2017 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Dea. Può diminuire le 8 maglie tutte sul ferro in cui diminuisce le prime 3 maglie. Buon lavoro!

30.01.2017 - 15:45

country flag Nollet Greta wrote:

Deze pull wil ik breien met garen type a . Hoeveel bollen heb ik nodig om met 2 draden maat m te breien .

25.01.2017 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Greta. Lees hier hoe je het aantal bollen kan berekenen

25.01.2017 - 14:33

country flag Nancy Villiard wrote:

Sur ce modele j'ai ceci:Taille XXL-XXXL: 1 m end, 2 m env, côtes *2 m end, 2 m env* sur les 32-36 m suivantes, A.3a (= 8 m), A.2a (= 40 m), A.1a (= 8 m), côtes *2 m env, 2 m end* sur les 68-76 m suivantes, 2 m env, A.3a, A.2a, A.1a, côtes *2 m env, 2 m end* sur les 32-36 m suivantes, terminer par 2 m env, 1 m end. quand j'ai fini ce rang il me reste pas mal de m c'est normal?

21.12.2016 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villard, en tricotant ainsi: 1 m end, 2 m env, côtes *2 m end, 2 m env* sur les 32-36 m suivantes, A.3a (= 8 m), A.2a (= 40 m), A.1a (= 8 m), côtes *2 m env, 2 m end* sur les 68-76 m suivantes, 2 m env, A.3a, A.2a, A.1a, côtes *2 m env, 2 m end* sur les 32-36 m suivantes, terminer par 2 m env, 1 m end. Vous avez: 1 + 2 + 32-36 + 8+ 40+8+ 68-76 + 2+ 8+40+8 + 32-36+2+1 = 252-268 m. Bon tricot!

02.01.2017 - 09:39