DROPS / 164 / 33

Lakeside Cardigan by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket round yoke, double crochet and lace pattern, worked top down in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-012
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450-450-500 g color no 11, peacock blue

DROPS Hook size 6 mm / J/10 - or size needed to get 12 dc x 7 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 8 cm / 3 1/8''.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7 pieces in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every row with sc work 1 ch to turn with. Ch does not replace first sc.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Sleeve: When working in the round, finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CROCHET 2 dc TOG (in dc):
Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more in same dc, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.

CROCHET 2 dc TOG (AROUND CH):
Work 1 dc around the middle chin dc-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.

DC-GROUP:
Work a dc-group around ch-space as follows: Work * 1 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 dc around same ch-space.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 sc/dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc at beg and end of round as follows: Work 1 dc (= 3 ch at beg of row), * work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook *, repeat from *-* when 3 dc remain on round = 1 st dec on each side of marker.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 75-78-84-89-93-98 ch (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 6 mm / J/10 with Air. Work next row as follows - READ CROCHET INFO:
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 1-4-2-7-3-8 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 7 ch *, repeat from *-* 8-8-9-9-10-10 more times = 65-68-73-78-81-86 sc.
ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 sc (= band), continue with 1 dc in every sc until 4 sc remain on row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-8-8-10-12-23 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP, 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 sc = 71-76-81-88-93-109 dc.
Now insert 8 markers in the piece for raglan increasing without working the sts. Insert 4 markers from each side of piece as follows: Insert a marker after 13-13-14-14-16-19 dc, insert next marker after 2 dc, then insert next marker after 9-11-12-14-14-17 dc, and finish with last marker after 2 dc. There are now 19-20-21-24-25-29 dc between the 2 middle markers towards mid back on jacket. Now continue with 1 dc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc on right side of each of the 8 markers. Then inc alternately on right and left side of every marker (seen from RS). Repeat inc every row 9-9-11-12-13-16 more times, and every other row 2-3-2-2-2-0 times = 167-180-193-208-221-245 dc on row. Piece measures approx. 20-23-23-24-26-27 cm / 8"-9"-9"-9½"-10 1/4"-10½". REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
On next round work as follows: Work 25-27-29-31-34-38 dc (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 38-40-42-45-47-50 dc from previous row (= sleeve), 41-46-51-56-59-69 dc (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve), skip 38-40-42-45-47-50 dc from previous row (= sleeve) and 25-27-29-31-34-38 dc (front piece). Insert a marker, now measure piece from here!

BODY:
There are now 107-116-125-134-143-161 sts for body. Now measure the piece from here. Now continue with 1 dc in every dc/ch on row, turn and work next row in PATTERN - see explanation above, as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc (= A.1), then work A.2 as follows: * Work 2 dc TOG (in dc) - see explanation above, ch 5, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 5, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 10-11-12-13-14-16 more times, work 1 dc in each of the remaining dc (= A.3).
ROW 2: Work 1 sc in each of the first 4 dc, * work ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, work 1 dc-GROUP - see explanation above, around next ch-space, ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in the 2 dc worked tog *, repeat from *-* 10-11-12-13-14-16 more times, work 1 sc in each of the last 4 dc.
ROW 3: Work 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, * ch 2, 1 sc around next ch-space, ch 5, work 2 dc TOG (around ch) - see explanation above, ch 5, 1 sc around next ch-space after dc-group, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 10-11-12-13-14-16 more times, 1 sc in each of the last 4 sc.
ROW 4: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 sc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) around first ch-space, ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in the 2 dc worked tog, ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, * (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) around next ch-space, ch 3, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in the 2 dc worked tog, ch 3, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* 9-10-11-12-13-15 more times, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1 ch) around last ch-space, 1 dc in each of the last 4 sc.
ROW 5: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, * work 2 dc TOG (around ch), ch 5, work 1 sc around ch-space after dc-group, ch 3, 1 sc around next ch-space, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 10-11-12-13-14-16 more times, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc.
Continue like this and repeat A.X (= 2nd-5th row) back and forth until piece measures approx. 32 cm / 12½'' in all sizes - adjust to finish after 2nd or 4th row in A.1-A.3. Piece measures 56-60-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-23½"-23½"-24½"-25 1/4"-26" in total.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8 ch worked under sleeve. Now measure the piece from here. Let marker follow in piece until finished measurements. Fasten yarn with 1 sl st in the 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc) continue with 1 dc in each of the next ch 3, 1 dc in each of the dc for sleeve and then 1 dc in the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 46-48-50-53-55-58 dc - remember CROCHET INFO! Continue with 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 4 cm / 1½'' beg dec - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat the same dec every 3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd-1st round 8-9-10-10-11-12 more times = 28-28-28-31-31-32 dc remain. Fasten off when piece measures 46-44-44-43-42-40 cm / 18"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16½"-15 3/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, the top button approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from neck edge, fasten the remaining button approx. 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm / 3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-4'' apart. Button between 2 dc on right front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 dc
= 1 ch
= 1 sc in st
= Crochet 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more in same dc, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.
= Crochet 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc around the middle ch in dc-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.
= Work a dc-group around ch-space as follows: Work * 1 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 dc around same ch-space.
= 1 sc around ch-space
= 1 dc around ch-space


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Stacey 13.09.2019 - 19:58:

Which side is the right side ?

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 15:41:

Dear Stacey, it's not that important when you work back and forth, you can have a look on the video to this pattern to help you to decide. Happy crocheting!

Stacey 12.09.2019 - 09:17:

Sorry me again I’m still confused When it says alternate increase right and left side of the markers dose that mean ? Increase on the right side of each 8 markers each row and then on the left side on the next row and then back to right side again next row ? Because if you increase both right and left side of the 8 markers that’s 16 stitch’s increase each row not 8 and that’s where I’m getting confused because I don’t understand the wording ?

DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 09:24:

Dear Stacey, as shown in the video linked below, when you have to increase alternately on the right side and left side of each marker, work fist increase row increasing on the right side of each marker, then work the next increase row increasing on the left side of each marker and continue like this = you increase 8 stitches on each increase row. Happy crocheting!

Stacey 11.09.2019 - 22:00:

Im confused by the pattern Where is says increase left and right of the markers seen on RS side Dose this mean only increase either side of the 8 marks every other row ? So one row increase and then the other just crochet into each stitch and the first row where it says just on the right does it mean increase only on the right on the first row and then just crochet the next row and then increase both sides on the next and then crochet every stitch no increase?

DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 08:52:

Dear Stacey, this video shows how to increase alternately on the right and left side of markers ; there are 8 markers and you increase 8 stitches per increase row. Happy crocheting!

Heather 14.03.2019 - 20:34:

I've done a test piece for increasing right and left of the markers. However one side the dcs increase and the other side stays at 4dc before the first 2dc increase. Ive followed the video, surely the number of dcs should increase on both sides/ends? Evenly When working the pattern are you doing 2 rows of right side marker increase before alternating right/left?

DROPS Design 15.03.2019 kl. 08:34:

Dear Heather, you should increase alternately on right and left side of the markers - seen from RS, ie seen from RS the increase will be worked atlernately before and after the markers so that the number of sts increases on each side of markers. Happy crocheting!

Mirte 25.11.2018 - 13:17:

Hallo, bedankt voor het antwoord op mijn vorige vraag! Ik vind nog iets niet duidelijk. In de tekst over de pas staat : “Meerder hierna afwisselend links en rechts van elke markeerder (gezien aan de goede kant). “. Klopt het dat de vermeerderingen vanuit de buitenkant van het vest telkens aan de zelfde kant van de markeerder komen omdat het werk elke toer gedraaid wordt? Zo ziet het eruit in de video, maar de toevoeging in de tekst tussen () schept verwarring. Mvg

DROPS Design 28.11.2018 kl. 12:54:

Dag Mirte

Je meerdert de ene keer aan de linker kant en de andere keer aan de rechter kant van de markeerders, gezien vanaf de goede kant. Dus als het werk klaar is, zie je op de goede kant dat er de ene toer aan de ene kant en de andere toer aan de andere kant gemeerderd is. Als je op de verkeerde kant aan het haken bent moet je hier dus rekening mee houden (want rechts op de goede kant is op de verkeerde kant links en vice verca). Hoop dat het zo duidelijk is :)

Mirte 20.11.2018 - 15:58:

Zijn de rijen stokjes identiek of er in de rondte wordt gehaakt (mouwen) of heen en weer (pas). Op de mouwen heb je dan alleen de “voorkant”, terwijl je op de pas voor- en achterkant afwisselt. Hoe kun je ervoor zorgen dat er geen verschil is? Groeten, Mirte

DROPS Design 21.11.2018 kl. 10:46:

Dag Mirte

Om de mouwen en de panden er gelijk uit te laten zien, kan je de mouwen ook heen en weer haken vanaf de scheiding door steeds het werk te keren nadat je een halve vaste in de derde losse het begin van de toer hebt gehaakt.

Charley 13.06.2018 - 22:28:

Hi, I am working the body and can\'t seem to make it add up. In row 1 of the body I start with 116 stitches for the medium but I\'m not left with 4 stitches at the end to make it even. I see on the diagram it shows the pattern uses 9 stitches but 2tog+sk2+sc+sk2+sc+sk2 is 10 stitches. I can\'t work out where I\'m going wrong, if anyone can offer any insight that would be great! Thank you

Charley 13.06.2018 kl. 22:35:

After posting my question I have now seen my error. I was crocheting 2dc tog from previous row but have read properly now and it's 2dc tog in the same stitch. Thank you for the pattern x

Nancy Janssens 10.10.2017 - 19:55:

Ik haak maat XXL. Een vraagje bij de pas: Ik vermeerder afwisselend links en rechts van de markeerders en om de toer 2 keer. Doe ik deze 2 keer ook thv de markeerders en zoja de welke en in welke toer? Vb toer 2 en 4? Of meer verspreid in de pas?

DROPS Design 04.11.2017 kl. 14:26:

Hallo Nancy, Het is de bedoeling dat je het meerderen steeds afwisselend rechts en links van de markeerders doet. Als je om de twee naalden meerdert, meerder je de ene keer bijvoorbeeld links van de markeerders en 2 naalden later rechts van de markeerders. Je wisselt dus steeds af: als je de vorige keer links van de markeerders hebt gemeerderd, doe je het de volgende keer rechts van de markeerders en zo ga je steeds heen en weer.

Rebekka 12.06.2017 - 14:53:

Is row 4 also increasing on the right side of the marker or is this the left? The video for me is not clear enough on how to increase on the left and right of the markers. Is there a graph/diagram of how to achieve this? Does the marker move down the work in the middle of the increase? OR to each side of the increased stitch as you move down the work?

DROPS Design 12.06.2017 kl. 15:42:

Dear Rebekka, the video below show how to increase alternately on the left and on the right of markers for a rounded yoke as in this pattern. Happy crocheting!

Petra Vincken 26.05.2017 - 10:18:

Hoi, ik moet nu de eerste regel van het lijf haken , mijn vraag is nu,,er staat , ga nu verder met 1 stk in elke stk/L op de toer , wil dat zeggen dat iK op die2 maal 8L die ik heb moeten haken in de vorige toer ook stokjes op moet haken? alvast bedankt ,Petra

DROPS Design 26.05.2017 kl. 16:13:

Hallo Petra, Ja, dat klopt helemaal. Op iedere losse haak je een stokje en op ieder stokje haak je een stokje.

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