DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Ferry Cross

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 165-14
DROPS design: Pattern no z-724
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-300-350-350-400 g colour no 501, light grey
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 100, off white
colour no 517, medium grey
colour no 8903, black
colour no 9020, light pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rounds in stocking st/pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on round (e.g. 248 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 64) = 3.88. I.e. in this example K approx. every 3rd and 4th st tog.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Beg 5 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 6 (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Inc 1 st on each side of markers as follows: Beg 3 st before marker, 1 YO, K 6, 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 248-272-296-336-376-408 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 64-68-72-84-96-100 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 184-204-224-252-280-308 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side = 92-102-112-126-140-154 sts between markers on front and back piece. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3 cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 172-192-212-240-268-296 sts. When piece measures 20 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2½-2½-2½-4½-4½-4½ cm 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 192-212-232-256-284-312 sts. When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm (inc should now be done), work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 - READ KNITTING TIP. After A.1 K 1 round with off white as follows: Cast off 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts for armhole, work 88-98-106-118-130-144 sts (= front piece), cast off 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts for armhole, work 88-98-106-118-130-144 sts (= back piece) and cast off the last 4-4-5-5-6-6 sts for armhole (piece measures approx. 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 64-64-68-68-72-72 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with light grey. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-8-8-10-10 sts evenly = 56-56-60-60-62-62 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 8-11-10-10-7-10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 4-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 10-12-12-14-15-17 times in total = 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 44-44-43-43-42-42 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders - and inc should now be done), work pattern according to diagram A.1. After A.1 K 1 round with off white while casting off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts under sleeve = 68-72-74-78-80-84 sts remain on needle (piece now measures approx. 48-48-47-47-46-46 cm). Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 312-340-360-392-420-456 sts. K 1 round with off white while dec 8-4-8-8-4-8 sts evenly = 304-336-352-384-416-448 sts. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size and beg on round marked with arrow in diagram for correct size).
AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 38-42-44-48-52-56 sts evenly (i.e. K every 7th and 8th st tog) = 266-294-308-336-364-392 sts.
On round marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 38-42-44-48-52-56 sts evenly again (i.e. K every 6th and 7th st tog) = 228-252-264-288-312-336 sts.
On round marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 4-12-8-0-8-0 sts evenly.
SIZE S: K every 56th and 57th st tog,
SIZE M: K every 20th and 21st st tog,
SIZE L: K every 32nd and 33rd st tog,
SIZE XXL: K every 38th and 39th st tog,
(do not dec in size XL + XXXL) = 224-240-256-288-304-336 sts. Continue pattern and dec as shown in diagram = 196-210-224-252-266-294 sts on needle before arrow 4.
On round marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 28-30-32-36-38-42 sts evenly (i.e. K every 6th and 7th st tog) = 168-180-192-216-228-252 sts. Finish A.2 (finish after round marked with arrow for correct size).

Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (choose diagram for correct size). AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow 5 in diagram dec 16-12-8-16-20-28 sts evenly as follows:
SIZE S: K alternately every 9th and 10th st and every 10th and 11th st tog,
SIZE M: K every 14th and 15th st tog,
SIZE L: K every 23rd and 24th st tog,
SIZE XL: K alternately every 12th and 13th st and every 13th and 14th st tog,
SIZE XXL: K alternately every 10th and 11th st and every 11th and 12th st tog,
SIZE XXXL: K every 8th and 9th st tog = 152-168-184-200-208-224 sts. Continue pattern. On round marked with arrow 6 in diagram dec 24-32-32-40-40-48 sts evenly.
SIZE S: K every 5th and 6th st tog,
SIZE M + XL + XXL: K approx. every 4th and 5th st tog,
SIZE L: K alternately every 4th and 5th st and every 5th and 6th st tog,
SIZE XXXL: K alternately every 3th and 4th st and every 4th and 5th st tog = 128-136-152-160-168-176 sts.
On round marked with arrow 7 in diagram dec 28-36-44-52-52-60 sts evenly.
SIZE S: K alternately every 3rd and 4th st and every 4th and 5th st tog,
SIZE M + L: K approx. alternately every 2nd and 3rd st and every 3rd and 4th st tog,
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: K approx. every 2nd and 3rd st tog = 100-100-108-108-116-116 sts remain on needle.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg mid back and work with light grey as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 32 sts back. Continue to work 8 sts more in stocking st on every turn until a total of 64-64-64-80-80-80 sts have been worked, turn and K until mid back again.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to a short circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 round, P 1 round and K 1 round with light grey. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.
Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = off white
symbols = medium grey
symbols = black
symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = K 2 tog with light pearl grey.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Avril wrote:

Hi. I’m afraid I have another question… so I’ve now finished the Ferry Cross jumper and I’m pleased with the result. I would like to know if I can block the garment (I used drops Alpaca) using damp cloth and iron. If not which would be the best method to use. Thank you so much for all the help you have given me.

30.01.2023 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Avril, some customers block, some other never block, so it's up to you, but remember you always should follow the instructions on the label - see shadecard or even more - and do not hesitate to contact your DROPS store for even more tipps and help. Enjoy your jumper!

30.01.2023 - 16:03

country flag Avril wrote:

Hi. I’m about to start the yoke, please can you advise if the beginning of the round is centre back or under the sleeve. Thank you Avril

16.01.2023 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Avril, The beginning of the round is mid-back. Happy knitting!

17.01.2023 - 07:24

country flag Avril wrote:

I am starting to knit Ferry Cross for my daughter. She would like it to be longer than stated in the pattern. Please could you confirm that to increase the overall length I should knit the extra centimetres before the first decreases. Thank you

14.12.2022 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Avril, The best way to increase the length is to add the cms before starting the decreases, as you say. Happy knitting!

15.12.2022 - 06:56

country flag Edith wrote:

Hallo, ich finde nicht, wo im Rumfteil das Muster A2 VOR A1 anfängt. Bitte um Hilfe! Liebe Grüße Edith

31.07.2022 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Edith, A.2 wird in die Passe gearbeitet.

31.07.2022 - 19:04

country flag Stefanie Boucher wrote:

Bonjour J'ai eu le même soucis que Louise pour le col. Une fois le pull fini pas moyen de le mettre. Beaucoup trop serré pour rentrer la tête. Je fais taille S j'ai dû me résoudre à le détricoter et le refaire en taille M.

04.01.2021 - 16:39

country flag Louise wrote:

Bonjour, . J'ai tricoté la taille S. L'encolure mesure les 16cm indiqués sur le schéma Si on la compare à la photo , elle est beaucoup plus montante et plus étroite. En utilisant la méthode de rabattage préconisée dans les vidéos explicatives, il est impossible d'enfiler le pull qui d'après mes calculs est adapté à 50cm de tour de tête sans l'élargissement dû à l'élasticité de la laine. Que me conseillez vous de faire?.

04.01.2021 - 10:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louise, essayez de tricoter les côtes avec les aiguilles 3 pour voir si vous pouvez conserver la circonférence souhaitée, et rappelez-vous de bien rabattre souplement. Bon tricot!

05.01.2021 - 10:22

country flag Stefanie Boucher wrote:

Bonsoir. Je suis à la partie ré-hausse encolure dos et je ne comprends pas du tout. Après mon diagramme A3 j'ai mes 100m. Est-ce que je dois continuer un tour en Jersey jusqu'au milieu du dos et à combien de mailles ça fait au milieu dos ? Je ne comprends vraiment pas du tout cette explication 😕 Merci de votre réponse 😊

30.12.2020 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boucher, pour bien définir le milieu dos, posez votre ouvrage bien à plat, et marquez le milieu dos. Tricotez ensuite jusqu'au milieu dos et commencez la réhausse. Bon tricot!

04.01.2021 - 13:14

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Bonjour Je viens de tricoter déjà une manche et je viens de me rendre compte que je viens de faire une erreur. Les 8 m qu'il faut rabattre milieu sous la manche, est ce que c'est tout au début qu'il faut rabattre ? Car moi je l'ai fait à partir de la 34eme maille. Je ne comprends pas très bien.

11.12.2020 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéphanie, les 8 mailles à rabattre sous la manche doivent être au milieu sous la manche, ce sont les mailles qui seront contre les 8 rabattues pour l'emmanchure dos/devant, autrement dit, pour la manche, on va rabattre les 4 dernières mailles du tour + les 4 premières mailles du début du tour. Bon tricot!

11.12.2020 - 13:06

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis actuellement en train de faire ce pull et j'en suis aux manches. J'ai un énorme soucis avec les aiguilles doubles pointes je n'y arrive pas du tout avec 5 aiguilles. Est ce que c'est possible de répartir les mailles sur 3 aiguilles ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

23.11.2020 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéfanie, vous pouvez tout à fait répartir les mailles sur uniquement 3 aiguilles et tricoter avec la 4ème, avez-vous pensé à la technique du magic loop? C'est une alternative aux doubles pointes qui a ses adeptes. Bon tricot!

24.11.2020 - 09:07

country flag Louise wrote:

Bonjour , les diminutions 2 doivent elles être réparties symétriquement par rapport au marqueur indiquant la séparation entre les 2 parties? Dans votre explication il est indiqué de faire à 5 mailles du marqueur une diminution, nous nous retrouvons donc à 4 mailles du marqueur. On nous dit ensuite de tricoter 6 mailles cela nous amène à 2 mailles du marqueur et de diminuer . Au final il y a une diminution à 4 mailles du marqueur et une à 2. Est ce correct?

30.10.2020 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Louise, les diminutions-2 sont symétriques par rapport au marqueur, commencez 5 mailles avant le marqueur, tricotez 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit, 3 mailles endroit, glissez le marqueur, tricotez 3 mailles endroit, puis glissez 1 maille à l'endroit, tricotez 1 maille endroit et passez la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricoté = vous avez 6 mailles entre les 2 diminutions, 3 de chaque côté du marqueur. Bon tricot!

30.10.2020 - 10:38