DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 166-12
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-013
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Width at the top: 156 cm Length in the middle: Approx. 48 cm
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 10, fog

DROPS HOOK SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 12 tr x 7 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 8 cm (A.X = approx. 5 cm vertically).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET 2 TR TOG (in tr):
Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more in same tr, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.

WORK 2 TR TOG (AROUND CH):
Work 1 tr around the middle ch in tr-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.

QUINTUPLE TR:
Make 5 YOs on hook, insert hook in first tr/dc on previous row and pull yarn through, * 1 YO on hook, pull yarn through the first 2 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* 5 more times = 1 st on hook.

TR-GROUP:
* 1 tr around ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 tr around same ch-space (= 4 tr around same ch-space).
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth.

Work 216 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 6 mm with Air. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), then work 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 34 more times = 178 tr. Now work PATTERN - see explanation above, as follows:
ROW 1: 6 ch, skip 2 tr, in next tr work 2 TR TOG (in tr) - see explanation above, * work 5 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, skip 2 tr, 3 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 5 ch, skip 2 tr, work 2 TR TOG (in tr) *, repeat from *-* until 3 tr remain, skip 2 tr, work QUINTUPLE TR - see explanation above, in last tr on row.
ROW 2: Turn and work as follows: 1 ch, * 1 dc in tr worked tog, 3 ch, skip 1 ch-space, work TR -GROUP around next ch-space, 3 ch, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch-spaces remain, 1 dc in tr worked tog.
ROW 3: 1 ch, * work 5 ch, skip to tr-group and work 2 TR TOG (around ch) - see explanation above, work 5 ch, work 1 dc around next ch-space after tr-group, 3 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr-group remains, 5 ch, work 2 TR TOG (around ch) in tr-group, skip next ch-space, work quintuple tr.
ROW 4: Work 1 ch, * 1 dc in tr worked tog, 3 ch, skip 1 ch-space, 1 tr-group around next ch-space, skip 1 ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch-spaces remain, 1 dc in tr worked tog.
ROW 5: 1 ch, * 5 ch, work 2 tr tog (around ch), 5 ch, work 1 dc around next ch-space after tr-group, 3 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr-group remains, 5 ch, work 2 tr tog (around ch), skip next ch-space, work quintuple tr.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Then repeat 2nd-5th row (i.e. A.X), and continue dec in each side as shown in A.1 and A.3. When working tip, work as shown in A.4. Piece measures approx. 48 cm in the middle of shawl down towards tip. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = Work 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more in same tr, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.
symbols = Work 2 tr tog as follows:
Work 1 tr around the middle ch in tr-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all sts on hook.
symbols = Work a tr-group around ch-space as follows: Work * 1 tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 tr around same ch-space.
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space.
symbols = Quintuple tr: Make 5 YOs on hook, insert hook in first tr/dc on row and pull yarn through, * 1 YO on hook, pull yarn through the first 2 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* 5 more times = 1 st on hook.
symbols = finish row here.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Willow wrote:

Hello. First of all thank you for the lovely pattern. Could you tell me what the multiples or pattern repeat are for this pattern as I want to use a different weight yarn and would therefore need more or less stitches for my starting chain.

22.11.2023 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Willow, add/remove 9 sts for each repeat of A.2 to change the width at the beginning; keeping A.1 and A.3 over 21/22 sts at the beg/end of piece. Happy crocheting!

23.11.2023 - 08:24

country flag Romy wrote:

Hallo. Ich habe folgendes Problem: jedesmal Ende ich vor den letzten 3 Stäbchen (erste Reihe nach der Stäbchen-Reihe) mit einer festen Masche, habe bereits 4x neu gemacht, da ich dachte ich habe irgendwo einen Fehler drin (verzählt o.s.). Aber es stimmte jedes Mal. Kann ich trotzdem mit dem Fünffach-Stäbchen weitermachen oder muss es unbedingt die 2stäbchen zusammen gehäkelt sein?

30.11.2020 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Romy, haben Sie wirklich 178 Stb am Ende 1. Reihe? Es sollte dann in der Breite klappen: A.3 = 22 M, A.2 (= 9M x 15 Mal), A.1 = 21 M = 22 + 9x15 + 21 = 178 M. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

30.11.2020 - 10:13

country flag Annemarie wrote:

Probleem van de stokjes is al opgelost!

16.11.2020 - 21:46

country flag Annemarie wrote:

Als de eerste stokjes opzet kom je op 178, maar in het telpatroon staan op de "eerste rij" maar 62 stokjes (A1+ A2 +A3) . Hoe kom ik van de 178 naar 62?

16.11.2020 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annemarie,

Het middengedeelte van het telpatroon (A.2) herhaal je 15 keer. Dan kom je precies op 178 stokjes uit.

18.11.2020 - 10:37

Nourhan Osama wrote:

Hello,, you are write in the first step, work 216 ch did i make the double crochet in each of the all next chains in 215 ? Or u mean that i make 2dc then 2 dc then skip 1 ch then work dc in 5 ch then repeat 34 times? And why the first make 4 dc only but all the repeat work is dc in each of the next 5 ch ?!

30.10.2018 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Osama, to avoid the fundation chain being too tight you will crochet more chain stitches than you will have dc on the first row, work the 216 ch as follows: 1 dc in the 4th dc from hook (= the first 3 ch to turn with + 1 ch to work in), 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, then *skip next ch, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 35 times . Happy crocheting!

31.10.2018 - 08:05

country flag Elaine Culver wrote:

I don't know the yardage, and I don't know how many balls of Air I should order. Can you help? Also, the instructions call for a total 4 dc, although the videos show many more dc in the dc group. ???

20.10.2018 - 23:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Culver, you will find required amount of yarn under the header, ie 150 g DROPS Air/50 g a ball Air = 3 balls are required for the shawl. Where do you read to work 4 dc, I cannot find these. Happy crocheting!

22.10.2018 - 10:24

country flag Lia wrote:

Dank voor het antwoord. Ik vraag me af of je een veelvoud van 9 extra steken moet opzetten. In de begintoer worden de steken van 216 verminderd naar 178. (En -/- 38 steken is geen veelvoud van 9.) Ik heb 36 steken (252) meer opgezet en ik kwam niet uit met het patroon in toer 1.

08.12.2017 - 19:54

country flag Lia wrote:

Als ik de sjaal groter wil maken, hoeveel lossen moet ik dan minimaal meer opzetten? Dit ivm het patroon in de sjaal? Groet Lia

04.12.2017 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Lia, Het patroon (A.2) dat steeds herhaald wordt gaat over 9 steken, dus als je de sjaal groter wilt maken, moet je een meervoud van 9 steken extra opzetten.

07.12.2017 - 12:37

country flag Ana Gomes wrote:

I have used nearly 250g in this pattern. I did not use DROPS yarns, could that explain the discrepancy?

05.10.2017 - 00:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gomez, you will find here relevant informations when using an alternative. Happy crocheting!

05.10.2017 - 09:28

country flag Hanneke wrote:

Het antwoord aan Yvonne beantwoord mijn vraag helaas niet... Als ik tel kom ik op 179 stokjes. Of tellen jullie de 3 lossen aan het begin hier niet in mee? Het gaat mij niet om het aantal lossen dat gebruikt wordt (zoals in het antwoord voor Yvonne gegeven wordt) maar in het totale aantal stokjes dat dit oplevert.

03.06.2016 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Hanneke. Ja, dat is waar. Maar ik zou het eerste stk (de 3 l) hier niet meetellen. Het is puur om mee te keren zoals ik het ziet.

03.06.2016 - 14:34