DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Sweet As Candy Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and multi-coloured pattern in borders in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 165-2
DROPS design: Pattern no u-762
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 71, silver pink
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour no 69, light grey green
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 39, dark old rose
colour no 40, light old pink
colour no 52, dark mustard
colour no 65, denim blue
colour no 68, light sky blue
colour no 74, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-8-8-9-9 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st. Repeat A.1 up to armhole on both body and sleeves.

KNITTING TIP 1 (applies to bands):
On the rows where there are either stripes or pattern border work the colour in the stripes or the base colour of pattern border also over the 5 band sts in each side.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 4 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All inc are done from RS.
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 4, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 46 and 54 cm
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 11, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 9, 17, 24, 32, 39, 47, 54 and 62 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50, 57 and 64 cm

KNITTING TIP 2:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 232-252-272-296-332-360 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with silver pink. P 1 row from WS. Then work rib (= K 2/P 2) with 5 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above and 2 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS). When rib measures 4 cm, K 1 row from RS while at the same time dec 45-49-53-57-65-69 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 187-203-219-239-267-291 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st and pattern according to diagram A.1 (1st row = WS), but continue the 5 band sts in each side towards mid front in garter st until finished measurements – READ KNITTING TIP 1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When piece measures 8 cm in all sizes, insert 2 markers 49-53-57-62-69-75 sts in from each side = 89-97-105-115-129-141 sts between markers on back piece. On next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3-3-3-3-4½-4½ cm 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in total in each side = 171-187-203-223-255-279 sts - NOTE: Adjust to dec on a row with silver pink.
When piece measures 22-22-23-23-23-23 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3½-3½-4-4-6-6 cm a total of 4-4-4-4-3-3 times = 187-203-219-239-267-291 sts.
When piece measures approx. 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, adjust so that 1 or 2 rows with silver pink have been worked after 1 row with dots and so that last row is worked from WS, work next row as follows from RS: Work 45-49-53-57-64-70 sts (= right front piece), cast off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work 81-89-97-105-119-131 sts (= back piece), cast off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole and work the remaining 45-49-53-57-64-70 sts (= left front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 60-60-64-64-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with silver pink. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm, K 1 round while dec 12-12-14-12-14-14 sts evenly = 48-48-50-52-54-54 sts on row. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1. When piece measures 8-8-7-8-8-10 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 3½-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 11-13-13-14-14-16 times in total = 70-74-76-80-82-86 sts. Work until sleeve measures 46-46-45-45-44-44 cm - adjust to work the same no of rounds with silver pink as on body (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). K 1 round while casting off the middle 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts mid under sleeve = 62-66-68-70-72-76 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 295-319-339-359-391-423 sts on needle. P 1 row from WS with silver pink(continue bands in garter st) while dec 8-8-10-12-14-16 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 287-311-329-347-377-407 sts - remember KNITTING TIP 1 and read KNITTING TIP 2.
Work next row as follows from RS: Work 5 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 6 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size and beg on row marked with arrow in diagram for correct size), work first st in A.2 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front) and finish with 5 band sts in garter st as before. Continue pattern like this.
AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 36-40-42-48-50-56 sts evenly (do not dec over bands ) = 251-271-287-299-327-351 sts on needle. Continue pattern.
On row marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 40-40-44-48-52-56 sts evenly (do not dec over bands ) = 211-231-243-251-275-295 sts on needle.
On row marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 40-44-44-52-52-60 sts evenly (do not dec over bands ) = 171-187-199-199-223-235 sts on needle.
On row marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 48-60-60-60-64-68 sts evenly (do not dec over bands ) = 123-127-139-139-159-167 sts on needle.
When A.2 has been worked, piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm up to shoulder.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg from RS with silver pink and K 12-12-14-14-15-15 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 24-24-28-28-30-30 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 36-36-40-40-44-44 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 48-48-52-52-58-58 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 60-60-64-64-72-72 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 72-72-76-76-86-86 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 84-84-88-88-100-100 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 96-96-100-100-114-114 sts back. Turn and K the rest of the row.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and P 1 row from WS (continue bands in garter st) while dec 27-31-31-31-43-51 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 96-96-108-108-116-116 sts. Work rib (= K 2/P 2) with 5 band sts in garter st and 2 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS) - NOTE: Dec for last buttonhole on right band when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P in rib and K over sts in garter st on band.
Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm up to shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = silver pink
symbols = light grey green
symbols = dark mustard
symbols = light old pink
symbols = dark old rose
symbols = denim blue
symbols = lavender
symbols = light sky blue
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej! I början på mönstret står det att man ska sticka 5 maskor i rätstickning och 2 rm i varje sida mot mitt fram. Ska jag alltså sticka 7 rm mot mitt fram? Mvh Maria

25.02.2021 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, de 5 maskor i varje sida som skall rätstickas = rät från både avigsidan och rätsidan. De 2 maskor som stickas rät = rät från rätsidan och avig från avigsidan. Lycka till :)

25.02.2021 - 14:37

country flag Lina wrote:

Buona sera, ho realizzato il cardigan nella taglia XXXL, seguendo scrupolosamente le indicazioni, ma lo sprone mi è risultato 7-8 cm più lungo della misura riportata nel diagramma. Come mai è successo questo? Dovendo rifarlo nella stessa taglia, è opportuno seguire lo schema dello sprone per taglie più piccole che risulta un pò più corto rispetto a quello della taglia 3x. Grazie

30.01.2020 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lina, prima di iniziare a lavorare il modello ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato? se così non fosse le misure non combaciano. Buon lavoro!

18.02.2020 - 21:44

country flag Lina wrote:

Buonasera, nelle indicazioni per il corpo, fa riferimento ad un "ferro con i puntini". E' quello che viene lavorato con il ferro azzurro cielo chiaro? Bisogna quindi arrivare a questo punto prima di lavorare lo sprone?

26.12.2019 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lina. Il ferro con i puntini è uno dei ferri in cui si alterna una maglia lavorata con il rosa argento a una maglia lavorata con un altro colore. Buon lavoro!

27.12.2019 - 08:26

country flag Karianne Fossmo-Sørensen wrote:

Når jeg strikker A.2 skal jeg begynne vrange omganger til venstre i diagrammet? Må jeg da starte med første maske til høyre, siden jeg avslutter med den på rette omganger?

12.03.2019 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karianne. Ja, det stemmer: når du strikker fra vrangen leses diagrammet fra venstre mot høyre. Den første masken etter stolpen strikkes som første maske i A.2. God fornøyelse

13.03.2019 - 08:21

country flag Jacoline wrote:

Dan zou de mouw 6 cm. te lang worden. Ik denk dat ik hem nu maar uithaal en aan de onderkant met een andere kleur begin zodat het wel uitkomt.

12.08.2018 - 18:08

country flag Jacoline wrote:

Dan zou de mouw 6 cm. te lang worden. ik denk dat ik hem nu maar uithaal en aan de onderkant met een andere kleur begin zodat het wel uitkomt.

12.08.2018 - 17:35

country flag Jacoline wrote:

Als de mouwen bij het lijf op de rondbreinaald komen loopt de kleurenvolgorde aan de bovenpas niet gelijk. Dit doordat de mouwen langer zijn. Hoe hebben jullie dat opgelost? Op de foto lopen de kleuren wel mooi door. Ik heb als enige oplossing; de mouw uithalen en met een andere streep beginnen dan het lijf zodat het boven wel uit komt? Met vriendelijke groet, Jacoline

12.08.2018 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacoline, Het staat inderdaad niet duidelijk aangegeven bij de mouw dat je uit moet komen met het patroon. Op de afbeelding is er 1 herhaling extra van patroon A.1 in de mouw te zien. Hoe kom je uit als je de mouw door breit tot het patroon overeenkomt. Ik zal het even aan de designafdeling doorgeven om dit evt. te verduidelijken.

12.08.2018 - 17:14

country flag Jacoline wrote:

De kleuren doorbreien in de boord/ ribbelsteek vind ik niet zo mooi worden omdat het een ribbelsteek is.\r\nHeeft u ook een mooier alternatief?\r\nAls ik de kleuren niet doorbrei krijg ik gaatjes omdat ik dan de hoofdkleur daar steeds moet aanhechten.\r\nIk hoor graag van u.\r\nHart. Gr,\r\nJacoline

10.07.2018 - 08:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacoline, Als je de voorbies in een kleur wilt hebben is het misschien handiger om achteraf steken op te nemen over de voorpanden en boordsteken te breien. Maar misschien ben je al een eindje op weg en haal je liever niet uit. In dat geval is het even puzzelen wat het beste voor je werkt zodat je geen gaatjes krijgt, bijv. door een klein koopje in de draden te maken of de draden om elkaar heen te leggen o.i.d.

10.07.2018 - 16:21

country flag Karianne Fossmo-Sørensem wrote:

Hvor finner jeg målene i de forskjellige størrelsene?

15.05.2016 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du hittar de på måttskissen längst ner i oppskriften. Lycka till!

16.05.2016 - 14:07

country flag Jette Jonstrup wrote:

Kan jeg ikke strikke den rundt og klippe den op. Det synes jeg er nemmere end at strikke frem og tilbage. Hvor mange klippemasker skal jeg slå op og kan jeg ellers bare føge opskriften.

02.05.2016 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette. Jo, det kan du godt. Jeg ville saette 5-6 klippemasker op. God fornöjelse.

03.05.2016 - 17:01