DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
9.40 CAD /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 9.40 CAD /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Raspberry Wrap |
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Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with lace pattern in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”.
DROPS 165-4 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. INCREASE TIP 1: Inc with YO, K YOs on next row to make holes. INCREASE TIP 2: Inc with YO, P YO twisted on next row to avoid holes. KNITTING TIP: Use two circular needles if there are too many sts on a circular needle. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1-A.18. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. ---------------------------------------------------------- SHAWL: Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from mid back and down. Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert a marker in the middle st. Then work in garter st - AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP 1 as follows: Inc 1 st inside 2 edge sts in each side of piece and 1 st on each side of mid st. Inc like this until there are 57 sts on needle (i.e. there are 28 sts on each side of mid st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Then work the 2 edge sts in each side in garter st and mid st in stockinette st. Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 (= 2 sts) until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 12 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 2. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 91 sts on needle. Work diagram A.4-A.6 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 (= 6 sts) until 4 sts remain before mid st, A.6 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 6 sts remain, A.6 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on 11th row (= from RS) inc 12 sts evenly. When A.4-A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 135 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 22 cm / 8 3/4'' measured along mid st. Work diagram A.7-A.9 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 (= 12 sts) until 3 sts remain before mid st, A.9 over 3 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 5 sts remain, A.9 over 3 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.7-A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165 sts on needle. Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 187 sts on needle. Work diagram A.10-A.12 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.10 over 3 sts, repeat A.11 (= 12 sts) until 4 sts remains before mid st, A.12 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.10 over 3 sts, repeat A.11 until 6 sts remain, A.12 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.10-A.12 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 279 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 57 cm / 22½'' measured along mid st. Work diagram A.13-A.15 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.13 over 8 sts, repeat A.14 until 9 sts remain before mid st, A.15 over 9 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.13 over 8 sts, repeat A.14 until 11 sts remain, A.15 over 9 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.13-A.15 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 319 sts on needle. Work diagram A.16-A.18 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.16 over 6 sts, repeat A.17 until 7 sts remain before mid st, A.18 over 7 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.16 over 6 sts, repeat A.17 until 9 sts remain, A.18 over 7 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 12 sts evenly. When A.16-A.18 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 403 sts on needle - READ KNITTING TIP. Piece measures approx. 81 cm / 32'' measured along mid st. Work diagram A.4-A.6 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 4 sts remain before mid st, A.6 over 4 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.4 over 3 sts, repeat A.5 until 6 sts remain, A.6 over 4 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME on 11th row (= from RS) inc 12 sts evenly. When A.4-A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 447 sts on needle. Work diagram A.7-A.9 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 3 sts remain before mid st, A.9 over 3 sts, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.7 over 2 sts, repeat A.8 until 5 sts remain, A.9 over 3 sts and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.7-A.9 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 477 sts on needle. Work diagram A.1-A.3 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 1 st remains before mid st, A.3 over 1 st, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st, repeat A.2 until 3 sts remain, A.3 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When A.1-A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 499 sts on needle. Then work 2 ridges over all sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts inside 2 edge sts in each side of piece and 2 sts on each side of mid st on every row from RS (= 8 sts inc). Bind off. Piece measures approx. 100 cm / 40'' measured along mid st. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (76)
Rahel wrote:
Hallo, ich habe gerade dieses Tuch begonnen und wundere mich nun ab der fünften Reihe der Rapporte A1-3. Wenn das Diagramm stimmt erhalte ich durch die Wiederholung der Rapporte 1 und 2 einen doppelten Umschlag, muss das so sein ? Vielen Dank...
01.03.2016 - 00:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Rahel, könnten Sie das bitte noch genauer beschreiben? Es folgt immer: 1 Umschlag, 2 re zusammen.
01.03.2016 - 14:15Ewa wrote:
Dokładny opis schematu A1-A3 do wzoru 1 65-4
13.02.2016 - 16:37DROPS Design answered:
Trudno będzie to opisać w kilku zdaniach. Musi Pani dokładnie trzymać się opisu i prześledzić schematy A.1-A.3, które znajdują się na dole strony. Powyżej będą wyjaśnienia symboli. Jak coś jest niezrozumiałe radze sięgnąć do zakładki VIDEO (pod tytułem wzoru, na górze strony). Proszę próbować, bo wtedy wiele się wyjaśnia. Jeśli będą kłopoty może uda się przygotować filmik instruktażowy jak przerabiać schematy A.1-A.3. Czekam na informację. POZDRAWIAM
14.02.2016 - 16:52Ewa wrote:
Co oznacza w drops 165-4 schemat A1 ponad następnym oczkiem
12.02.2016 - 17:20DROPS Design answered:
Proszę napisać dokładnie o jaki fragment w opisie chodzi. POZDRAWIAM
12.02.2016 - 21:54Hansi Koekkoek wrote:
Bij telpatroon A.4-A.6 en A.16-A.18 staat meerderen. Wordt hier bedoeld MEERDEREN 2 ? De volgende naald is recht, moeten de omslagen dan gedraaid recht gebreid worden? Mooi patroon. Dank voor uw antwoord.
11.02.2016 - 12:06DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Hansi. Bij het breien van de telpatronen maak je gewoon omslagen en deze worden niet gedraaid gebreid. Bedoel je de 12 st gelijkmatig meerderen in de 11e nld, dan brei je deze wel gedraaid (dus geen gaatjes) BEHALVE de 2 omslagen aan beide zijkanten in het telpatroon - deze worden NIET gedraaid gebreid
11.02.2016 - 14:44Karina Profft wrote:
Sidder og er igang med dette sjal. Har talt for at få det til at passe. Jeg er kun kommet til de 3 første diagrammer og har lige haft udtagninger på sidste retpind. Men jeg mangler 3 masker til sidst. Har ellers flittigt talt maskerne. Kan ikke se hvor jeg mangler dem. Hvad skal jeg gøre?
21.11.2015 - 01:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Karina, Det er svært at gætte hvor det går galt.... Kan du ikke bare tage de 3 m ud på sidste pind? God fornøjelse!
25.11.2015 - 15:20Amna Hassan wrote:
I am a little confused about this " - READ INCREASE TIP 1 as follows: Inc 1 st inside 2 edge sts in each side of piece and 1 st on each side of mid st. Inc like this until there are 57 sts on needle" Is the increase between the 2 edge sts or after the 2 edge sts? Thank you
18.11.2015 - 07:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hassan, you inc with 1 YO after the first 2 edge sts + 1YO on each side of mid st + 1 YO before the last 2 sts on row = 4 YO = 4 inc. Happy crocheting!
18.11.2015 - 09:45Nathalie wrote:
Vous indiquez 150g de kid Silk, soit 3 pelotes. Avec déjà plus de 400 mailles sur mon aiguille circulaire j'ai déjà épuisé presque 5 pelotes de cette qualité et ma dernière pelote n'ira pas au bout de l'ouvrage... Vous devriez peut être revoir votre estimation de nb de pelotes à la hausse...
03.11.2015 - 20:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Nathalie, DROPS Kid-Silk se présente en pelotes de 25 g, ainsi 150 g Kid-Silk = 6 pelotes. Bon tricot!
04.11.2015 - 09:23Amna Hassan wrote:
I could not understand INCREASE TIP 2: Inc with YO, P YO twisted on next row to avoid holes. Instead of this, can we use the regular method to increase? Will it make any difference? By regular method i mean knit and purl the same stitch. Thank you.
26.10.2015 - 04:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hassan, see in the video below how to inc with a YO - do not hesitate to make a swatch to test both methods and use the one you rather like. Happy knitting!
26.10.2015 - 11:43Debra wrote:
I have never used a diagram for knitting and have tried to find video help related to pattern 165-4 raspberry shawl. On the pattern it says there are 16 related videos but I am not sure which ones will help. I have the correct number of stitches (57) ready to start the diagram A1-A3, but I am not sure on which row to increase 12 stitches evenly. Is it the very last row before going on to A4? I don't understand how I will end up with 91 stitches on needle before proceeding to A4.
22.10.2015 - 15:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Debra, please click here to read more about diagrams - the 12 sts have to been increased on last row from RS in diagrams, ie on next to last row and have to be done extra to the YOs in A.1/A.3 - see how to inc evenly here. 57 sts + (2 x 5 sts inc in A.1) + (2 x 6 sts inc in A.3) + 12 sts inc evenly = 91 sts. Happy knitting!
23.10.2015 - 09:20CLARABELLE wrote:
Bonjour! Superbe châle! J'aimerais le faire, j'ai des pelotes de "DROPS ALPACA SILK brushed", est ce possible de les utiliser pour l’exécution de cet ouvrage! J'ai vu sur les explications que l'on pouvait utiliser des fils de groupe A+A ou C, or , le fil que j'ai cité plus haut et qui est en ma possession, est de groupe C ! J'ai déjà réalisé quelques uns de vos modèles que je trouve formidables! Merci de votre réponse! Cordialement à vous! CLARABELLE
25.09.2015 - 18:18DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Clarabelle, effectivement 2 fils A = 1 Fil C, vous pouvez donc utiliser Brushed Alpaca Silk au lieu d'1 fil Alpaca + 1 fil Kid-Silk. Cliquez ici pour savoir comment calculer la quantité nécessaire. Bon tricot!
28.09.2015 - 09:10