DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Charming Cooper

Set of knitted jacket with cables and shawl collar, hat with pompom and bow in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS Children 26-16
DROPS design: Pattern no u-068-bn
Yarn group B
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JACKET:
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 98/104 - 110/116 -122/128 – 134/140 – 146/152
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550 g colour no 55, light beige brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-8-8 pieces

HAT:
Size: 6 months/1 year - 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 10/12 years
Fits head circumference: approx. 42/44 - 48/50 - 50/52 - 53/54 - 55/56 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50-100-100-100 g colour no 18, red
50 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm (40 cm) - for garter st.

BOW:
Measurements: approx. 5 x 8 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 18, red (bow weighs approx. 6 g).

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ACCESSORY: Silk ribbon or elastic for fastening the bow.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. See diagram for your size! The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
The jacket is double-breasted. Dec for 6-6-6-8-8 buttonholes on left band. Dec for buttonholes at the end of a row from RS.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog fourth and fifth st on band and make 1 YO. On same row also K tog fourth and fifth LAST st on band, make 1 YO.
Dec for 2 buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 3/4 years: 10, 18 and 26 cm
SIZE 5/6 years: 14, 22 and 30 cm
SIZE 7/8 years: 16, 25 and 34 cm
SIZE 9/10 years: 11, 20, 29 and 38 cm.
SIZE 11/12 years: 15, 24, 33 and 42 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 186-198-206-214-226 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work as follows: 18-20-20-22-24 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= band), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st ( = band). Work rib until piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm, then P 1 row from WS (continue band in garter st), AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 184-196-202-214-224 sts. Work next row as follows - from RS: 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 28-28-28-32-32 sts - see diagram for your size), 32-36-39-37-40 sts in stocking st, A.1, 32-36-39-37-40 sts in stocking st, A.1, finish with 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st. NOTE: For every 8th ridge work short rows over band as follows: K 18-20-20-22-24 sts, turn and K back 18-20-20-22-24 sts, work 1 row over all sts. Turn and K 18-20-20-22-24 sts, turn and K back 18-20-20-22-24 sts. K 1 row over all sts.
Continue the pattern like this. Dec for BUTTONHOLES on left band - see explanation above. When piece measures 31-34-37-40-43 cm, work as follows - from RS (continue pattern as before): Work 50-54-55-59-62 sts (= right front piece), cast off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 72-76-80-84-88 sts (= back piece), cast off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 50-54-55-59-62 sts (= left front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-76-80-84-88 sts. Continue pattern as before. Then cast off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-2-3-1-2 times = 64-64-66-74-76 sts. When piece measures 42-46-50-54-58 cm, dec 10 sts evenly over A.1, on next row cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20 sts for neck and finish each side separately. Then cast off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 18-18-18-22-22 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 44-48-52-56-60 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-54-55-59-62 sts. Continue pattern as before. Cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 46-48-48-54-56 sts. When piece measures 43-47-51-55-59 cm, dec 10 sts evenly over A.1. On next row from RS, cast off the first 18-18-18-22-22 sts = 18-20-20-22-24 sts remain on needle (= band). Continue in garter st over all sts on band, and work short rows as follows, beg from RS: * Work the first 9-10-10-11-12 sts, turn and work back, work over all sts, turn and work back *, repeat from *-* until band measures 7-8-9-10-11 cm from shoulder (measures at the shortest). Cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-54-55-59-62 sts. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-44-48-48-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-0-2-2-4 sts evenly = 44-44-46-46-48 sts. Then work as follows: 13-13-14-14-15 sts in stocking st, A.2 (= 18 sts), 13-13-14-14-15 sts in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 6-6-5-5-5 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 4½-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm 6-8-9-11-12 times in total = 56-60-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 30-34-39-42-46 cm, cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve. Then work sleeve back and forth and dec for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Dec 2 sts in each side until piece measures 34-39-44-47-52 cm. Dec 3 sts in each side, then cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 35-40-45-48-53 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew band tog mid back and sew on to neck line at the back of neck.

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HAT:

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and then double pointed needles. Cast on 85-90-95-100-105 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with off white. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and red. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 12 cm, insert 5 markers in the piece, 17-18-19-20-21 sts apart. On next round, dec 1 st after every marker by K 2 tog = 5 sts dec on every round. Repeat dec every 3rd round 14-15-16-17-18 more times = 15 sts remain on double pointed needles. After last dec K all sts tog 2 by 2. Pull yarn through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 27-28-30-31-32 cm.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with an approx. diameter of 5 cm in off white. Fasten pompom at the top in the tip of hat.


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BOW:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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BOW:
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 8 cm, cast off.

MIDDLE BAND:
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 3.5 mm and work 4 ridges. Cast off. Sew the short ends tog to form a ring.

Pull the bow through the ring and fasten the two parts tog with a couple of stitches. Fasten a ribbon or an elastic through the ring on the back of the bow.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K or P 1 (see diagram), K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K or P 1 from cable needle (see diagram)
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Erika wrote:

Hello, I need some help with the short rows every 8th ridge please. What are they for? Can I skip them? Do I count it every 8th ridge from the beg. of the piece or from when I changed to 4mm needles and started the chart? Thank you

17.05.2023 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Erika, additional short rows are worked to prevent the band from tightening too much. As the garter stitch is dense and the band wide, garment could be deformed (band x rest of sweater). Therefore, we "flattened" band using short rows. The ridges are counted from the bottom edge, i.e. from the beginning of the piece. Happy knitting! Milá Eriko, zkrác. řady přidáváme proto, abychom předešli deformování úpletu - kontrast mezi hustotou lég a zbytku svetru může vytvořit "kapsu". Légy tedy "vyrovnáme" zkr. řadami. Vroubky počítáme od začátku, od dolního okraje. Hodně zdaru! Hana

18.05.2023 - 15:44

country flag Denise wrote:

Liebes Drops Team Ich bin schon bei der Halsblende (li. Vorderteil) und habe eine Frage zu den verkürzten Reihen: Meiner Auffassung nach müssten diese auf der linken Seite der Vorderseite sein, also am äußeren Rand der Blende. Es bildet sich ja eine Art Fächer dadurch und wenn der auf der rechten Seite wäre, wie in Eurer Beschreibung angegeben, wüsste ich gar nicht, wie ich den an den Kragen nähen soll. Ich bin verwirrt. Danke für Eure Rückmeldung und LG Denise

20.01.2023 - 20:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Denise, also ja genau, um den Schlalkragen zu bilden, will man mehr Reihen über die außer Maschen (die werden danach schön gefaltet), und die inneren Maschen werden an den Halsausschnitt vom Rückenteil angenäht. Also wie in diesem Video, obwhol keine verkürzten Reihen im Video gestrickt waren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.01.2023 - 08:42

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, Ich bin inzwischen am Kragen angekommen. Hier wird ja weiterhin in verkürzten Reihen über die 10 Maschen gestrickt... bleibt es bei dem "in jeder 16ten Reihe"? Oder in jeder zweiten Reihe ? Danke für die Hilfe

29.06.2021 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, beim Kragen stricken Sie nur die beschriebenen verkürzten Reihen, dh 2 Reihen über die ersten 10 Maschen, 2 Reihen über alle Maschen und diese 4 Reihen wiederholen bis der Kragen 9-10 cm vom Schulter misst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.06.2021 - 07:20

country flag Lea wrote:

Ich habe nochmal eine Frage. Wie muss ich den folgenden Satz aus der Anleitung des Rückenteils verstehen? "Am Anfang jeder R, d.h. beidseitig, für die Armausschnitte wie folgt abketten: 2 M je 1-2-2-2-2 x und 1 M je 2-2-3-1-2 x (= 64-64-66-74-76 M)." Diese Angabe kann ich nicht nachvollziehen, vielleicht kann mir das jemand en bisschen bildlicher beschreiben? Danke

21.04.2021 - 09:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lea, Sie sollen für die Armausschnitte beidesitig in jeder 2. Reihe so abketten: 2 M je 1-2-2-2-2 x (= 2 Maschen am Anfang jeder der nächsten 2-4-4-4-4-4 Reihen) und 1 M je 2-2-3-1-2 x (= 1 Masche am Anfang jeder der nächsten 4-4-6-2-4 Reihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.04.2021 - 13:19

country flag Lea wrote:

Hallo, ich finde diese Jacke total super, und suche schon lange nach genau so einer Anleitung für Erwachsene. Kann man das nicht vielleicht nochmal für größere Größen umrechnen???

21.04.2021 - 07:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lea, hier finden Sie Herrenjacken mit Zöpfe - kann das Ihnen helfen?

21.04.2021 - 08:09

country flag Jessica wrote:

I’m doing 5/6 on back piece do I only decrease until I’ve reached 64sts then continue pattern as normal until 18in?

15.01.2021 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jessica, work back piece in pattern as before over the 76 middle stitches casting off at the beginning of each row (both from RS and WS): 2 sts 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = you will cast off 6 sts on each side = 64 sts remain. Work then over these 64 sts in pattern as before until 18 inches. Happy knitting!

15.01.2021 - 07:34

country flag Emanuela wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei avere una precisazione: durante l'esecuzione del cardigan, la NOTA dice: "su ogni 8° costa lavorare a ferri accorciati" essendo 1 costa = 2 ferri diritti quindi ogni 16 ferri devo fare un ferro accorciato? Grazie

02.04.2020 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Emanuela, esattamente, deve lavorare i ferri accorciati sul bordo ogni 8 coste, cioè ogni 16 ferri. Buon lavoro!

03.04.2020 - 09:17

country flag Maliza wrote:

Please help me understand the following stitches: = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K or P 1 (see diagram), K 3 from cable needle Knit or purl? How should I decide. What should I be looking in the picture? = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K or P 1 from cable needle (see diagram) Same for this stitch. Is there any standard term for these stitches? Thank you for your help!

15.10.2019 - 04:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maliza, the stitches in the middle of the mid-cable are worked in moss stitch, so that they have to be either purled or knitted, depending on how the next/previous stitch has to be worked, ie if next stitch in moss stitch is P you have to knit this stitch, if previous stitch is a K, you have to purl this stitch. Happy knitting!

15.10.2019 - 10:15

country flag Carol wrote:

I would like to know in this pattern for Charming Cooper, in the 2nd row on starting the pattern stitch it mentions you must start short rows after the 8th ridge on the band. what does this mean and what is the 8th ridge worked.

16.07.2019 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carok, a ridge is two rows/ rounds knitted with garter stitch. When you knit garter stitch back and forth, it is two rows with knit stitch, when you knit it on the round it is one round of knit and the second round is purled. I hope this help. Happy Knitting!

16.07.2019 - 11:44

country flag Nadege MAILLET wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les diminutions. Je le fais en taille 9/10 ans Du coup pour le dos je commence avec 84 mailles Si je fais 1-2-2-2-2 fois 2 mailles je retire déjà 18 mailles et 2-2-3-1-2 fois 1 mailles je retire 10 mailles + les 18 précédentes ca fais 28 mailles retirées. Comment je fais pour arriver à 74 mailles ? Merci pour votre réponse

22.03.2019 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maillet, en taille 9/10 ans, vous allez rabattre de chaque côté 2 fois 2 m et 1 fois 1 m soit 10 m au total, il va rester: 84-10= 74 mailles. Bon tricot!

22.03.2019 - 15:53