DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Super Sale

Sea Mist

Knitted DROPS jumper with ¾ sleeves and round yoke in "Delight" and "Brushed Alpaca Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1089
DROPS design: Pattern no de-136
Yarn group A and C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g color no 07, beige/blue
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color no 14, light gray green

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 6 mm / US 10 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DECREASE TIP-1:
Dec as follows before 6 sts in the side: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 sts tog.
Dec as follows after 6 sts in the side: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

DECREASE TIP-2:
Dec 1 st on each side of marker.
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid hole.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back.
Cast on 116-128-140-152-172-184 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows: K 2, P 2 the entire round. When 3-3-3-5-5-5 rows have been worked, continue in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 4-4-2-4-4-4 sts evenly = 112-124-138-148-168-180 sts. Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows, from beg of row: 1st marker after 25-28-31-34-39-42 sts, 2nd marker after 31-34-37-40-45-48 sts, 3rd marker after 81-90-101-108-123-132 sts and 4th marker after 87-96-107-114-129-138 sts (= 6 sts between markers in each side). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'' from cast-on edge, dec 1 st on each side of 6 sts in each side - Read DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat dec when piece measures 11 cm / 4½'' and 13 cm / 5'' = 100-112-126-136-156-168 sts.
When piece measures 23 cm / 9'', inc 1 st on each side of 6 sts in the sides -
READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc when piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' = 108-120-134-144-164-176 sts. Work until piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''. Now work next row as follows: Work 24-27-30-33-38-41 sts, bind off the next 4 sts, work 52-58-66-70-80-86 sts, bind off the next 4 sts and work the last 24-27-30-33-38-41 sts. Put piece aside = 100-112-126-136-156-168 sts remain on needle.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 34-34-34-38-38-42 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Work rib as follows (1st row = from RS): 1 edge st, *K 2, P 2*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Continue like this until rib measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Now continue working in stockinette st with 1 edge st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st in each side inside 1 edge st. Repeat inc every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm / 3/4"-½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8" 9-10-11-11-12-12 times in total - Read INCREASE TIP! = 52-54-56-60-62-66 sts. When piece measures approx. 28-27-27-26-25-25 cm / 11"-10½"-10½"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 46-48-50-54-56-60 sts. Put piece aside and Make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 192-208-226-244-268-288 sts. Start mid back and work 1 round while dec evenly 0-0-2-1-7-8 sts = 192-208-224-243-261-280 sts. Next row work and place markers like this: insert 1st marker after 12-13-14-13-14-14 sts, then insert the next 7-7-7-8-8-9 markers with 24-26-28-27-29-28 sts between each marker, there is 12-13-14-14-15-14 sts after last marker, work to mid back (= a total of 8-8-8-9-9-10 markers).
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 16-16-16-18-18-20 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP 2! Repeat dec every 3 cm / 1'' 2 more times and then every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 80-96-96-99-99-100 sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9''. On next row dec evenly 13-26-24-21-18-17 sts = 67-70-72-78-81-83 sts.
Insert a marker mid front and work short rows to make the jumper higher at the back, beg from mid back: K until 15 sts remain until marker at the front. Tighten yarn, turn and P from WS until 15 sts remain in the other side towards marker at the front. Turn piece and tighten yarn. K until mid back. Then K 1 round and P 1 round over all sts. Then loosely bind off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seam and sew openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Anna Paola Majer wrote:

Buongiorno, quanto filato Melody occorre per realizzare questo modello, nella taglia L? Grazie

06.10.2023 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna Paola, può usare 250 g di DROPS Melody. Buon lavoro!

19.11.2023 - 20:12

country flag Lise wrote:

Hej. Er det korrekt at der ikke skal være lige mange masker på forstykke og ryg, når man lukker af til ærmegab? Det giver jo noget mere vidde foran til brystet, har bare ikke oplevet det før. Venlig hilsen Lise

05.11.2022 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lise. Jo, på denne modellen er det slik (4 masker mer på forstykket enn bakstykket ved delingen). Når ermene er strikket og satt sammen med bærestykket, vil maskeantallet være det samme mellom hver felling. mvh DROPS Design

07.11.2022 - 10:58

country flag Catherine Ledon wrote:

Bonjour, Je commence tout juste à m'initier au tricot aux aiguilles circulaires..... cependant je ne comprends pas le 2ème § des explications du modèle 0-1089. Où doit on mettre les marqueurs? si on fait la somme des intervalles on arrive au double de mailles: 224 en ce qui me concerne. merci. cordialement.

29.11.2021 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ledon, vous devez placer vos marqueurs entre des mailles ainsi en S (sauf erreur de ma part): comptez 25 m, placez 1 marqueur, comptez 31 m à partir du début du tour (= 6 mailles après le 1er marqueur), placez 1 marqueur, comptez 81 mailles à partir du début du tour (46 m après le dernier marqueur), placez 1 marqueur, comptez 87 m à partir du début du tour (= 6 m après le dernier marqueur). Bon tricot!

30.11.2021 - 08:22

country flag Mary Ann M Marsico wrote:

Is this pattern joined and knitted in the round at the beginning. If not when is it joined in the round. Thank you

06.11.2021 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mary Ann, this jumper is joined and knitted in the round from the beginning. Happy knitting!

06.11.2021 - 19:50

country flag Bente wrote:

Jeg kan ikke forstå når jeg stikker denne bluse i str L og efter opskriften, så bliver den alt alt for lille og jer er normal i størrelse. Jeg har været helt oppe i p 8, lavet strikkeprøve og strikker ikke løst og heller ikke stramt. Strikkeprøven på 10x10 cm viser 15 m på p 7og 8. Jeg er helt vildrede, håber i har nogle gode råd til det.

17.02.2021 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bente, Strikker du i DROPS Delight og DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk samtidigt? Da skal du få 14 masker på 10 cm. Hvis du får 15 eller flere masker på 10 cm, så vil størrelsen blive mindre end de mål du finder i måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2021 - 08:45

country flag Helle wrote:

Jeg har fulgt opskriften, men halsudskæringen bliver alt for vid til mig (hænger ud over skuldrene). Strikkefasteheden stemmer. Vil I anbefale mindre pindestørrelse eller færre masker til start?

15.09.2019 - 15:06

country flag Villuis wrote:

Bonjour pourriez-vous me conseiller sur le nombre de pelotes 🧶 conseiller pour tricoter le pull modèle 236 en taille 44 svp merci

03.05.2019 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villuis, pour choisir votre taille dans un premier temps, mesurez un pull similaire dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma (plus d'infos sur les tailles ici). La quantité nécessaire pour chaque laine est indiquée dans l'en-tête, au poids, découvrez comment calculer le nombre de pelotes ici. Bon tricot!

06.05.2019 - 08:20

country flag Anne-Line Gausdal wrote:

Hvorfor skal armene strikkes fram og tilbake? For meg virker det tungvint. Finnes denne oppskrifta med ermene rundstrikket?

29.04.2019 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Lise. Om du heller vil strikke ermene rundt er det ikke noe i veien for at du gjør det: fjern kantmaskene i rille, sett et merke på begynnelsen av omgangen og øk på hver side av dette merket. God fornøyelse

30.04.2019 - 07:17

country flag Christine FERREIRA wrote:

Magnifique pull que j'ai adoré réaliser... Mais au bout de 6 lavages, il commence à feutrer pourtant lavé à la main en eau froide avec shampooing laine sans frottements, essoré dans un drap de bain et séché à plat. Je suis très déçue, dommage. 😪 Je ne comprends pas pourquoi.

24.02.2019 - 13:21

country flag Zoe Davison wrote:

Do you have a video to show how to do the the higher back going back and forth on needles ? Could you please give me the link?

15.05.2017 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davison, the video shows how to work an elevation on back piece - but remember to follow the number of sts in your pattern. Happy knitting!

15.05.2017 - 13:28