DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 162-17
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-080
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width: 35 cm Length: 134 cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 1101, white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 tr x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 10 cm.
Categories:
Women Accessories Scarves Shawls
Keywords:
lace

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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STOLE:
Work 95 loose ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk.
Work ROW 1 as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in next ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 8 ch *, repeat from *-* = 83 tr (= 1st row A.1-A.3).
Then work pattern as follows: A.1 over the first 5 tr - READ CROCHET INFO, A.2 (= 24 tr) 3 times in width, A.3 over the next 6 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.X has been worked vertically, repeat A.X 1 more time vertically before continuing with A.Z (= 3 squares in total vertically). Then work from 4th row in A.1-A.3. When A.X has been worked, continue with A.Z (to get 2 squares vertically). When A.Z has been worked, continue with mesh pattern (i.e. 1 tr + 2 ch in every tr), and continue A.1 and A.3 in each side. When mesh pattern has been worked for 14 cm and piece measures 56 cm in total, work as follows: Work from 5th row in A.1-A.3 as before. Repeat A.X 2 times vertically (beg of 2nd repetition A.X = mid back), then continue with A.Z. When A.Z has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with mesh pattern for 14 cm. Now work from 5th row in A.1-A.3. When A.Z has been worked, continue from 4th row in A.1-A.3. Repeat A.X 2 times vertically, then continue until A.Z has been worked. Now work A.Y. When A.Y has been worked 1 time vertically, the stole is done. Piece measures approx. 134 cm.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = tr around st
symbols = 8 ch
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = tr at star belongs to A.1.
symbols = Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = Beg here = 1st row is explained in pattern
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Darlene wrote:

I want to widen this pattern to accommodate my my voluptuous size. I believe I counted 36 stitches per motifs. Is that right. Would that give me the right count to widen the stile? Thank you

21.08.2022 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Darlene, you should increase the number of repeats worked in A.2 (= 24 sts) - but note that you cast on more chains than you require sts on first row - the chain stitches are often too tight so that you need here more chains (95) than dc (US-English) on the first row (85 dc). Happy crocheting!

22.08.2022 - 09:58

country flag Hennie Van Koolwijk wrote:

Haak nu uit blad: Sandra Mode, stola model 23, blz 44, met garen BabyAlpaka Silk in grijsblauw. Op de foto staat een mooie strakke witte stola. Maar bij mij bobbelt hij erg. Hoe kan dit? Graag uw reactie. Met vriendelijke groeten, Hennie van Koolwijk

24.03.2019 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hennie,

Voor vragen over patronen uit Sandra mode kun je het beste bij hun terecht. Je zit nu op het forum van DROPS Design.

25.03.2019 - 08:47

country flag Joan B wrote:

The number of stitches to chain has a typo. It should be 85 stitches, not 95 stitches. Once I figured this out, the rest of the pattern is pretty easy.

04.01.2019 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joan B, there is no typo, you start with 95 chain, then on first row skip chains as explained so that you get 83 sts at the end of first row (so that the first row is not too tight you cast on more chains than you need sts). Happy crocheting!

07.01.2019 - 12:30

country flag Irene Anglada wrote:

Ho he llegit en castellà, anglès i francès. Impossible. El patró no es el que surt a la foto, passen de 95 a 83 punts a la primera passada. I amb tantes A1 2 etc impossible. He agafat un vídeo de Youtube x seguir el punt aranya i claríssim.

11.12.2018 - 15:36

country flag Ursula wrote:

Hej. Synes sjalet er smukt, men jeg har problemer med at læse diagrammet. I 8. række er der i midten af A.2 et symbol, som jeg ikke ved hvad er. Det er den linje, som går opad i en spids over tre masker. Hvad skal jeg hækle i de tre masker?

08.04.2018 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ursula. Det er et veldig pent sjal. Det tegnet betyr at du skal hekle 8 lm. Det står forklart i symbolforklaringen mellom "st om m" og "4 lm". God fornøyelse.

09.04.2018 - 11:41

country flag Anonym wrote:

Hei, når jeg hekler 95 lm og er ferdig med rad 1 får jeg ikke 83 st, men 82. Hva gjør jeg feil? Eller regnes 3 lm til å snu med som en st? 1.RAD: 1 st i 4.lm fra nålen, 1 st i neste lm, * hopp over 1 lm, 1 st i hver av de neste 8 lm *, gjenta *-* = 83 st

18.07.2017 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Heisann. Ja, det er slik du skriver. De siste 3 lm på oppleggsraden regnes som første stav = 83 staver. God Fornøyelse!

07.08.2017 - 11:31

country flag Brigitte Artner wrote:

Hej, mönstret stämmer inte. A1 längst till vänster fattas en stolpe hela vägen upp (jag vet inte hur mkt som fattas så jag vågar aldrig börja virka på detta). Möjligen är det en rad hela vägen upp som har missats. Jämför A1 vänster mot A3 höger så stämmer de inte. Det är inte lika på båda sidor.

08.07.2017 - 13:26

country flag Luisa Maria Ribas wrote:

Gosto muito dos modelos , fiz varios todos deram certos e ficaram lindos! Tenho uma duvida sobre a receita do modelo 162 17 Se vc pudesse me esclarecer ficaria grata. No inicio da receita diz*saltar 1pc,1pa em cada um dos 8pc seguintes Nao entendi estes 8pc Muito obrigada

09.11.2016 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Salta os pontos da correntinha de base (8 pontos corrente). Bom croché!

11.11.2016 - 11:04

Daiva wrote:

Hallo, was 8 Lm oder 4 Lm auf diesem Muster bedeutet? Danke schoen. Daiva

27.09.2015 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Es bedeutet, dass Sie bei den entsprechenden Symbolen 8 Luftmaschen bzw. 4 Luftmaschen häkeln.

03.10.2015 - 10:48

country flag Rachel wrote:

In the first row of the A.X section, in A.1 there is a symbol that looks like a slanted dc with a dot next to it. What does that mean? I don't see anything similar in the symbol key. Thanks!

31.03.2015 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rachel, the symbol has been edited to a star, as for the other one. Thank you. Happy crocheting!

24.04.2015 - 10:03