DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Peach Macaroon

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and raglan in ”Muskat”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 160-23
DROPS design: Pattern no r-668
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour no 10, peach

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for edge in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Round (light pink), NO 618: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.

BAND STS:
Work band (= 6 sts) as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 6.
ROW 2: K 6.
Repeat 1st-2nd row 5 times in total (= 5 ridges).
ROW 11 (= RS): * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, work reversed in the other side of piece, i.e.: 1 YO, K 2 twisted tog (= eyelet row).
ROW 12: K all sts, do not work YOs twisted; they should make holes.

RAGLAN:
Inc differently for raglan in the different sizes:
SIZE S-M:
Inc on every row from RS (= every other row) as follows:
Inc 1 sts each side of each marker (= 8 sts inc) as follows: 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1( = st with marker), K 1 twisted, 1 YO. Do not work YOs twisted on next row, they should make holes, repeat inc every other row 17-19 more times.
SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Inc on every row from RS (= every other row) as follows:
Inc 2 sts each side of each marker (= 16 sts inc in total) as follows: 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 twisted, K 1(= st with maker), K 1 twisted, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO (the first and last YO work P twisted on next row, it should not make a hole, P the 2 middle YO, they should make holes). Repeat inc on every row from RS 1-1-1-3 more times.
Then inc on every row from RS (= every other row) as follows:
Inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 8 sts inc in total) as follows: YO, K 1 twisted, K 1 (= st with maker), K 1 twisted, YO. Do not P YOs twisted on next row, they should make holes, repeat inc every other row 19-20-22-21 times in total.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
Picture deviate from pattern, there is no seam on sleeve in pattern.
----------------------------------------------------------

YOKE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Cast on 147-147-153-157-157-161 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Work 6 BAND STS - see explanation above, A.1 (= 2 sts) until 7 sts remain, K 1, finish with 6 band sts. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work the 6 band sts like this until finished measurements. On next row from RS, 6 band sts, A.2 (= 7 sts), K until 13 sts remain - AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-18-12-20-40-44 sts evenly, A.3 (= 7 sts), ending with 6 band sts = 161-165-165-177-197-205 sts. On next row (= from WS) insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: 6 band sts, A.3, P 15-16-17-20-25-28 sts (= front piece), P 1 and insert 1st marker in this st, P 28-28-26-26-26-24 (= sleeve), P 1 st and insert 2nd marker in this st, P 45-47-49-55-65-71 sts (= back piece), P 1 st and insert 3rd marker in this st, P 28-28-26-26-26-24 sts(= sleeve), P 1 and insert 4th marker in this st, P 15-16-17-20-25-28 sts (= front piece), A.2 and finish with 6 band sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! A.2-A.3 is worked like this until finished measurements.

Then work as follows (from RS) - AT THE SAME TIME inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above. Work 6 band sts, A.2, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 1st marker, work RAGLAN - see explanation above, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 2nd marker, work raglan, K 0-1-1-4-9-12, A.4 (= 43 sts), K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 3rd marker, work raglan, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 4th marker, work raglan, work in stocking st until 13 sts remain, A.3 (= 7 sts), finish with 6 band sts. Work the inc sts in stocking st until they can be worked in pattern as shown in A.4.

When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.5 (= 57 sts) over A.4.
After all inc are done there are 305-325-349-369-405-437 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm. Continue with pattern and stocking st as before AT THE SAME TIME work as follows on next row from RS: Work 6 band sts, A.2 as before, 33-36-40-44-51-57 sts in stocking st (= front piece), insert the next 66-70-74-76-80-84 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts under sleeve (insert marker in the middle of the new sts), work the next 81-87-95-103-117-129 sts (= back piece) as before, slip the next 66-70-74-76-80-84 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), 33-36-40-44-51-57 sts in stocking st (= front piece), A.3 as before, finish with 6 band sts = 185-197-213-233-261-285 sts remain on needle.

Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue with pattern and stocking st over the remaining sts. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each markers in the side (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2½-4-4-4-4-4 cm 5-3-3-3-3-3 more times = 161-181-197-217-245-269 sts. Work as before until piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm. When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stocking st over all sts. Then inc 1 st on each side of each markers in the sides (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 2 cm 8-7-7-7-7-7 more times = 197-213-229-249-277-301 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS), switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Then work as follows: 6 band sts, work A.6 (= 2 sts) until 7 sts remain, 1 st in stocking st and 6 band sts. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 72-76-80-84-88-92 sts - see KNITTING TIP.
Work in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve (= 2 sts dec), repeat dec every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm 12-13-14-15-17-18 more times = 46-48-50-52-52-54 sts. When piece measures 32-32-32-31-31-31 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), switch to double pointed needle size 3.5 mm. Work A.6. Cast off when A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves. Sew on buttons, button in eyelet row for band sts. Fasten the top button in neck on left band in first eyelet row, skip 2 eyelet rows, fasten the next button, then fasten the other button in every other eyelet row.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.03.2015
YOKE: One number missing in size L in explenation for raglan.
Updated online: 01.06.2015
Correction: Raglan and yoke has been rephrased.
Updated online: 12.10.2016
YOKE: P 28 (not 29) sts in size XXXL on front pieces
Updated online: 16.05.2022
Correction YOKE:...AT THE SAME TIME inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above. Work 6 band sts, A.2, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 st remains before 1st marker, work RAGLAN - see explanation above, K until 1-1-2-2-2-2 sts remain before 2nd marker, work raglan, K 0-1-1-4-9-12,...

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 160-23

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Mona Lien wrote:

Hei. Lurer på om det kan være feil i mønstret. Når man skal begynne på mønster A.4. står det at man skal strikke 11 m før ( str XXL) diagrammet. Tror ikke det er tatt høyde for at 1 maske i hver side blir brukt til raglan fellingen av de 65 på bakstykket. Mønstret kommer ikke midt på ryggen. 1 maske til raglan+ 11 rett+43 masker( mønster A.4) Da blir det 9 masker rett + 1 maske raglan igjen på andre siden. Og da kommer i mønstret midt på. Håper forklaringen min er forståelig.

24.02.2015 - 21:37

Anna Ivanova wrote:

Thank you! So much!

21.02.2015 - 19:29

Anna Ivanova wrote:

Hi there! It is me again! Do you probably have a tip for adding a new ball of yarn? This model is especially sensitive about this, as the 2 ends of the knitting piece are the front bands of the cardigan. So i cannot hide the ends there. Thanks for the help again!

19.02.2015 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ivana, you will find in our video library different videos showing hot to change a ball, like here for example, and also how to weave in ends. Happy knitting!

20.02.2015 - 09:01

Anna Ivanova wrote:

O, thank you so so much, i am so happy i don't have to start over :) Thank you for the great site and support!

18.02.2015 - 10:13

Anna Ivanova wrote:

Hello! I have started this and i was a bit confused on diagram A1. The holes are on row 6 from the diagram. This means If i want to make the holes on RS row, i have to start the diagram with WS row. In this way instead of K all rows, i have to P all rows until the holes row, which is not the first choice for garter stitch and is not specified. Does this make sense? Please help! Thank you!

18.02.2015 - 07:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ivanova, 1st row in A.1 is worked from RS and hole row is worked from WS, but pattern match perfectly, last row in A.1 is a WS row to continue then from RS. Happy knitting!

18.02.2015 - 09:42

country flag Corneillie Christine wrote:

Prachtig model !!! Zo lief ,om er onmiddellijk aan te willen beginnen . Hopelijk komt het patroon vlug uit !

16.02.2015 - 23:28

country flag Ada Bartoli wrote:

Quando arriva la spiegazione del modello? distinti saluti

16.02.2015 - 16:27

country flag Ann De Jonge wrote:

In 1 woord gezegd prachtig, hopelijk vlug beschrijving en patroon dat ik wol kan bestellen bij Drops.

11.02.2015 - 20:09

country flag Zuzana Gulašová wrote:

Nádherné

10.02.2015 - 01:23

country flag Anne wrote:

Nydelig jakke. Når kommer oppskriften?

08.02.2015 - 14:49