DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lacey Days Jumper

Crochet DROPS jumper with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-27
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-040
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 02, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Applies when piece is worked back and forth.
Replace first tr on every row with tr with 3 ch, finish row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in 1 tr.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 tr dec.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. A.4 show how the pattern beg and ends when working in the round.
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YOKE:
Worked top down from mid back. Work 153-153-163-168-173-183 ch on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Light and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows:
3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in first ch from ch-ring, 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 124-124-132-136-140-148 tr. Then work piece back and forth. Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn piece.

READ CROCHET INFO! Insert 12 markers in the piece as follows: Work 15-15-17-18-19-21 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-5-3-3-4-2 tr evenly – READ INCREASE TIP, insert first marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 16 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 30-30-34-36-38-42 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-10-6-6-8-4 tr evenly, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 16 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 15-15-17-18-19-21 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-5-3-3-4-2 tr evenly = 128-144-144-148-156-156 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Turn piece. On next row from RS, inc as follows: Inc 1 tr on each side of every marker (= 24 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 3-3-4-6-7-9 times in total, then inc before every marker (= 12 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 4-4-4-2-2-0 times in total = 248-264-288-316-348-372 tr. Piece measures approx. 17-17-19-19-21-21 cm.

On next round work as follows: 35-38-42-47-53-57 tr (half back piece), 8 ch (armhole), skip 54-56-60-64-68-72 tr from previous row (to be used for sleeve later), 70-76-84-94-106-114 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-1-3-1-1-3 tr evenly (front piece), 8 ch (armhole), skip 54-56-60-64-68-72 tr from previous row (to be used for sleeve later) and 35-38-42-47-53-57 tr (half back piece) = 157-169-187-205-229-247 tr/ch. Now work piece in the round without turning. Continue to work as follows: A.1, A.2 24-26-29-32-36-39 times in total in width, finish with A.3. Work the first 7 rounds of A.z. On 8th round in A.z (= tr-round) inc 6 tr evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 163-175-193-211-235-253 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 25-27-30-33-37-40 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z 1-2-2-3-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.x over A.y. On 2nd round in A.x inc 12 tr evenly = 175-187-205-223-247-265 tr. Continue to work A.x as before but now work A.2 27-29-32-35-39-42 times in width. On last round in A.x inc 6 tr evenly = 181-193-211-229-253-271 tr. Then work A.z over A.x (now work A.2 28-30-33-36-40-43 times in width). On 8th round in A.z inc 12 tr evenly = 193-205-223-241-265-283 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 30-32-35-38-42-45 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z 1-2-2-3-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.x over A.y. On 2nd round in A.x inc 6 tr evenly = 199-211-229-247-271-289 tr. Continue to work A.x as before but now work A.2 31-33-36-39-43-46 times in width. On last round in A.x inc 9-13-11-9-17-15 tr evenly = 208-224-240-256-288-304 tr. Then work as follows: A.5 13-14-15-16-18-19 times in total (A.4 shows how round beg and ends). Fasten off when A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 65-69-71-75-77-77 cm.

SLEEVE:
Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr). Then work with 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch. Then work with 1 tr in every tr over sleeve AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-3-1-5-3-1 tr evenly – READ DECREASE TIP, before working 1 tr in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 61-61-67-67-73-79 tr. Continue to work as follows: A.1, A.2 8-8-9-9-10-11 times in width, finish with A.3. On 8th round in A.z (= tr-round) dec 6 tr evenly = 55-55-61-61-67-73 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 7-7-8-8-9-10 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z. When A.y has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.x over A.y. On last round in A.x dec 6 tr evenly = 49-49-55-55-61-67 tr. Then work A.z over A.x. A.2 is now worked 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width. On 8th round dec 6 tr evenly = 43-43-49-49-55-61 tr. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z. Then work A.x over A.y. On last round in A.x dec 0-0-0-0-6-6 tr evenly = 43-43-49-49-49-55 tr. Then work the first 5 rounds of A.z. A.2 is now worked 5-5-6-6-6-7 times in width. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 44 cm in all sizes. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round. Work 1 edge around the neck in ch-round on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Light, beg mid back from RS as follows: Work up 114-114-120-120-126-126 tr in ch-round. Then work A.6 19-19-20-20-21-21 times in width. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.03.2015
under SLEEVE:
..... When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z. When A.y has been worked 1 time vertically, work .....
Updated online: 03.06.2015
Correction: YOKE:..Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn piece.

Diagram

symbols = dc in st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = ch
symbols = tr around ch
symbols = 1 bobble with 4 dtr: Work 1 dtr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dtr in each of the next 3 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook
symbols = first row/round is explained in pattern
symbols = 1 dc around ch
symbols = 2 tr in same st
symbols = Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = 7 tr in same ch/tr
symbols = sl st
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (107)

country flag MOLINA wrote:

Bonjour, Serait-il possible de voir une photo du dos de cet ouvrage ? Cordialement Annick

10.03.2023 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Molina, nous n'avons pas de telle photo, et nous n'avons plus ce pull, mais comme indiqué précédemment, il n'y a pas de fente au dos, le dos va ressembler au devant. Bon crochet!

10.03.2023 - 13:33

country flag MOLINA wrote:

Bonjour, Si j'ai bien compris, il faut commencer à crocheter en aller-retour sur une chainette fermée en rond. Ensuite l'encolure sera crochetée en rond sur la chainette de départ. Cela veut-il dire qu'il y aura une fente dans le haut du dos ? Si oui est-il possible de ne pas faire cette fente ? Et comment ? Cordialement Annick

10.03.2023 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Molina, on crochète en rond dans la mesure où on va terminer chaque rang/tour par 1 maille coulée dans la 3ème ml du début du rang, mais on va tourner l'ouvrage pour crocheter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Il n'y a pas de fente dans le dos, tout est bien "fermé". Bon crochet!

10.03.2023 - 13:32

country flag Linda wrote:

Hi I am stuck on the Yoke! I have done 153 chains then dc in each next ch4, skip 1 ch to end 124dc what do i do next? Do I repeat more rows? or put the 12 markers after first row? And Inc 1 before each marker on every 15 dc. I don't know how many rows and when it says turn your work do you do 1 row finish with sl st 3 ch I then turn it around every row? Sorry I'm used to making bags and beanies so this is new and challenging to me. I love the jumper and want to make it. Thankyou

28.06.2022 - 05:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lina, once you get your 124 sts, work the next row inserting markers as explained, ie: crochet 1 dc over the next 1 dc increasing 1 st in S- 5 sts in M (= 16 (in S) -20 (in M) dc over 15 dc from previous round), insert a marker, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, insert a marker, etc.. Happy crocheting!

28.06.2022 - 08:33

country flag Suzanne Rini wrote:

Lacey Days Jumper What does tog mean in the following instruction: Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd chain from beg of row

01.06.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Suzanne, This means that you finish each row with a slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row. Happy crocheting!

02.06.2022 - 06:53

country flag Zofia wrote:

I'm kinda confused at the very begining, here: AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-5-3-3-4-2 dc evenly What does it mean? DC 1, inc, DC 5, inc, DC 3, inc, and so on? Or rather inc every 1, 5, 3, 4 or 2 stitches? Like DC 5,inc, db 5, inc?

21.04.2022 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Zofio, przerobić 15-15-17-18-19-21 sł, W TYM SAMYM CZASIE równomiernie dodać 1-5-3-3-4-2 sł > to znaczy że np. w rozmiarze S wykonując 15 pierwszych słupków, przerobisz 2 sł np. w 7-my słupek (=16 sł). W rozmiarze M wykonując 15 pierwszych słupków przerobisz 2 sł w np. 2-gi, 5-ty, 8-my, 11-ty i 14-ty sł (=20 sł). Powodzenia!

21.04.2022 - 10:38

country flag Sjoerdtje Hoekstra wrote:

Ik ben bezig met de trui 162- 27 . De pas is prima gegaan . Het patroon wat ik rond moet haken gaat fout . Hoe verder ik haak , Destelbergen schever loopt de midden achternaam . Ik vind dat lelijk . Wat kan ik daar aan doen ? Zodat de naad recht gaat lopen ? Vr groet Sjoerdtje Hoekstra .

08.02.2022 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sjoerdtje,

Dit is helaas een eigenschap van in de rondte haken. Je zou ervoor kunnen kiezen om heen en weer te haken, dus dat je het werk bij elke toer keert, net zoals je dat op de pas gedaan hebt.

11.02.2022 - 14:28

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein kleines Problem mit Häkelschrift A.z. 2. Runde z.B. Waagerechte Striche sind Luftmaschen. Was sind die kleinen gebogenen Striche?

11.06.2021 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, diese kleinen gebogenen Striche stehen je für 1 Luftmasche, wie das 3. Symbol. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.06.2021 - 07:42

country flag Pia Østergaard wrote:

Skal til at hækle diagrammet, og der står først A.1, A2, totalt 32 omgange i bredden afslut med A3. Er tvivl om, om jeg skal starte med 3 luftmasker og derefter 4 stangmasker, og så 6 stangmasker og derefter igen A1 med 2 luftmasker osv., og så gentage disse 2 rapport - indtil de sidste 9 masker som skal være stangmasker i A.3. , og regner så med, at jeg skal hækle opad i diagrammet (A.z).

02.08.2020 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia. Du skal nå hekle rundt og etter diagram A.1 (som viser begynnelsen av omgangen), A.2 (som viser 1 rapport som skal hekles 32 ganger) og A.3 (som viser hvordan omgangen avsluttes). Diagram A.z, A.y og A.x viser hvordan A.1 og A.3 «hekles sammen». Når du starter 1. omgang hekler du 1 luftmaske (A.z), deretter A.1, A.2 (32 ganger), A.3 og så avslutter du med en kjedemaske i 1. luftmaske (A.z). På 2. omgang hekler du 3 luftmaske (A.z), deretter A.1, A.2 (32 ganger), A.3 og så avslutter du med en kjedemaske i 3. luftmaske (A.z). Hekleinfo som står i oppskriften gjelder bare når det hekles frem og tilbake. God Fornøyelse!

10.08.2020 - 13:21

country flag Sherry Haun wrote:

I love this pattern and am planning to make 2! Is there ease built in to the design? Also I plan to use Jojoland Tonic because that's what I have in my stash. No problem getting gauge.

23.07.2020 - 22:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sherry, Do check the schematic at the bottom of the pattern with all final measurements so you can see if it has enough positive ease for your taste. We do not recommend you to use another yarn. This pattern was created for our DROPS Cotton Light and it has specific charactheristics that produce the final result. You can always get this amazing yarn untill the end of July with a 40% discount. Happy Crocheting!

24.07.2020 - 11:36

country flag Betina Boye Christensen wrote:

Hvordan skal jeg sætte 12 mærker? Når jeg har hæklet det med at springe 1 luftmaske over, så ender jeg med at have 148 st når jeg hækler efter XXXL men hvis jeg hækler 21 st sætter et mærke derefter 4, 16, 4, 42, 4 , 16, 4, 21 det blir kun 132 st. Hva gør jeg forkert?

25.04.2020 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hækl 21 st tag 2 st ud jævnt fordelt, sæt første mærke, * hækl 4 st, sæt næste mærke *, gentag fra *-* 1 gang til, hækl 16 st, sæt næste mærke, * hækl 4 st, sæt næste mærke *, gentag fra *-* 1 gang til, hækl 42 st tag 4 st ud jævnt fordelt, sæt næste mærke, * hækl 4 st, sæt næste mærke *, gentag fra *-* 1 gang til, hækl 16 st, sæt næste mærke, * hækl 4 st, sæt næste mærke *, gentag fra *-* 1 gang til, hækl 21 st tag 2 st ud jævnt fordelt = 156 st det vil sige: 21+2+4+4+16+4+4+42+4+4+4+16+4+4+21+2=156 st

28.04.2020 - 13:40