DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Water Diamonds

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in "Brushed Alpaca Silk" and "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 161-13
DROPS design: Pattern no as-038
Yarn group A and C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-98-108-116-128-142 cm / 35½"-38½"-42½"-45 3/4"-50½"-55 3/4"
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''


Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-175-175-200-225-225 g color no 14, light gray green
And use:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color no 7120, light grayish green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. NOTE: Finish 3rd row in A.2 with YO, and beg 3rd row in A.4 with YO.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS.
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 edge st in garter st.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 77-83-91-99-107-115 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 16-19-23-27-31-35 sts in stockinette st, A.1A (= 3 sts), A.1B over the next 28 sts, A.1C (= 12 sts), 16-19-23-27-31-35 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
Continue the pattern like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec in each side every 8-8½-7-6-6½-6½ cm / 3"-3 1/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2½" - 5-5-6-7-7-6 more times = 65-71-77-83-91-101 sts. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22'' – adjust according to 10th or last row in A.1 insert 1 marker in each side (markers are needed for adjustment of pattern and for assembly). Bind off 4-4-6-7-10-13 sts for armholes at beg of the next 2 rows = 57-63-65-69-71-75 sts. When 24 rows have been worked from marker, continue in stockinette st over all sts – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7'' from marker (piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''), bind off the middle 13-13-13-15-15-15 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 21-24-25-26-27-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' from marker (piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'').

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 43-46-50-55-59-63 sts (includes 12-12-12-14-14-14 band sts and 1 edge st) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work as follows from RS: A.2 (= 12-12-12-14-14-14 band sts), 1 st in stockinette st, A.3 (= 15 sts), 14-17-21-24-28-32 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the pattern like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in the side. Repeat dec in the side every 8-8½-7-6-6½-6½ cm / 3"-3 1/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2½" 5-5-6-7-7-6 more times = 37-40-43-47-51-56 sts. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22'' – adjust according to back piece – insert a marker in the side (marker is needed for adjustment of pattern and for assembly). Bind off 4-4-6-7-10-13 sts for armhole at beg of next row from WS = 33-36-37-40-41-43 sts. When 24 rows have been worked from marker, continue in stockinette st over A.3. When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' from marker - adjust according to back piece and so that next row is from WS, bind off the first 21-24-25-26-27-29 sts (= shoulder), work the rest of row = 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts. Work in garter st over these sts for shawl collar - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows, beg from the neck (1st row = RS) as follows: * Work 1 ridge over all sts. On next row from RS K 8-8-8-10-10-10, turn and K back *, repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½" from bound off for shoulder (short side). Loosely bind off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work the same way as on right front piece but reversed - work A.4 (= 12-12-12-14-14-14 band sts) instead of A.2. Beg short rows on shawl collar from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 33-35-35-37-39-39 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 strand Alpaca (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 8-9-9-10-11-11 sts in stockinette st, A.3 (= 15 sts), 8-9-9-10-11-11 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the pattern like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc in each side every 7-7-5½-4½-4½-3 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 1/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1" 5-5-6-7-7-9 more times = 45-47-49-53-55-59 sts. When piece measures 50-50-49-48-46-44 cm / 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19"-18"-17 1/4", insert 1 marker in each side (these markers are needed for assembly). Bind off when piece measures approx. 53 cm / 21''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves in outer loops of edge sts (make sure that markers on sleeve meet markers on front and back piece). Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew band tog mid back for collar. Sew collar to neck line.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Houriha wrote:

Très jolie point

06.08.2023 - 19:47

country flag Gilda Obici wrote:

I vostri modelli sono stupendi, già utilizzati per le mie maglie, ma oggi devo fare una cucitura invisibile in un collo a scialle con delle trecce, quindi co punti a diritto e rovescio . Mi potete spiegare come fare le cuciture in questi passaggi di punti. Grazie Gilda Obici

17.05.2023 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Gilda, provi a vedere se questo video le può essere di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

18.05.2023 - 21:29

country flag Katharina Prüne wrote:

Guten Tag, Ich würde diese Jacke gern stricken. Die abgebildeten Farben gibt es nicht mehr. Welche Farben könnte ich kombinieren, um einen ähnlichen Farbton zu erreichen? LG Katharina Prüne

22.09.2021 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Prüne, am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen gerne die richtigen Farben - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail - empfehlen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.09.2021 - 08:35

country flag Vineeta Bhandari wrote:

Can you please send me the written instructions for this water diamond design jacket with lace pattern. It’s easier for me to follow the written instructions than the chart. Thank you.

21.09.2021 - 08:08

country flag Jopie Wigmans wrote:

Ik wil graag het patroon Water dDiamonds breien maar een andere kleur Saliegroen nr.13 wat kan ik dan als tweede kleur er bij nemen graag ad vies. Groetjes Jopie Wigmans

16.08.2021 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jopie,

Hiervoor kun je het beste even het garen bekijken, zodat je zelf kan zien welke kleurcombinaties het beste bij elkaar passen. Het is uiteindelijk ook een kwestie van persoonlijke smaak :) Dus het zou mooi zijn als je bij een winkel in de buurt langs kan gaan. Saliegroen nr 21 van Brushed Alpaca Silk past naar mijn idee het beste bij zeemist 7323 van Alpaca.

17.08.2021 - 11:35

country flag Beate wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte gerne nur ein Garn verwenden, nur Drops Alpaka, Maschenprobe 10x10cm = 23M und 30R. Leider verstehe ich die Angabe hierzu nicht: ....... um folgende Maschenprobe zu erhalten: 10 x 10 cm = 14 M x 16 R glatt re mit 1 Faden von jeder Qualität (= 2-fädig gestr).....? Kann ich die Anleitung ohne das zweit Garn übernehmen oder muss die Maschenanzahl erweitert werden, z. B. um eine Kleidergrößen von L auf XL? Freue mich auf eine Rückmeldung. LG

29.01.2021 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Beate, wenn Sie mit DROPS Alpaca stricken möchten, dann sollen Sie mit 3 Fäden Alpaca stricken, um dieselbe Maschenprobe zu bekommen (= 1 Faden Brushed Alpaca Silk durch 2 Fäden Alpaca ersetzen). Wenn Sie mit nur 1 Faden Alpaca stricken möchten, dann ist die Maschenprobe komplett anders und die Anleitung solle dann komplett umgerechnet werden. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.01.2021 - 14:45

country flag Rene Gould wrote:

Where are just the written instructions for this winter diamond jacket I can't An don't enjoy chart work the pattern states it comes with both written instruction An chart instruction but can't find written instructions can you please help just want written instruction no definitely no charts thank you

10.12.2020 - 20:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rene, Most patterns use a certain amount of chart reading, unless the pattern is stocking stitch or rib for example, which do not need a chart. Happy crafting!

11.12.2020 - 07:02

country flag Celina wrote:

Hola espero me puedan ayudar, no sé si entendí bien lo de las vueltas cortas para el cuello, simplificando las instrucciones del patrón: debo tejer un surco en los 12 puntos del borde, después un surco en los 8 primeros puntos, y así repetir estos dos surcos hasta que la pieza mida 8 cm? Estoy en lo correcto? De antemano agradezco su respuesta, pues vivo en Mexico y compro sus lanas por Internet, por lo tanto no tengo una tienda física a la cual acudir para resolver mis dudas.

18.10.2019 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Celina. Si, es correcto. También tienes varios vídeos bajo el patrón sobre cómo trabajar las filas cortas.

27.10.2019 - 19:14

country flag Celina wrote:

Hola tengo una duda, ¿por qué es necesario ajustar a la 10a o última fila de A1?. Y no simplemente cerciorarme que, tanto la espalda como los delanteros coincidan en la misma vuelta de A1, respetando la altura de 52cm (talla M). Saludos!

06.10.2019 - 04:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Celina. En la décima fila se termina una repetición de medio rombo y en la última fila de A.1 una repetición del rombo completo. El modelo está confeccionado de esta manera, pero puedes trabajarlo como dices tú, aunque puede que el resultado no sea igual.

17.10.2019 - 19:59

country flag Sandrine Grekov wrote:

À 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm de hauteur totale – ajuster au 10e ou au dernier rang de A.1, placer 1 marqueur de chaque côté (les marqueurs sont utilisés pour ajuster le motif et lors de l'assemblage) 1) Qu'est-ce que je dois ajuster ? (Je tricote la taille M en aig 7 et à 52 cm j'arrive au 7ème rang du motif A1) 2) De chaque coté de quoi je dois placer les marqueurs ? Merci.

04.04.2019 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, si vous en êtes au 7ème rang, vous pouvez continuer pour que le rang suivant soit le 10ème (c'est ce qu'on entend par ajuster la longueur) ou bien pour une veste un peu plus courte, défaire jusqu'au dernier rang de A.1. Vous placez un marqueur de chaque côté de l'ouvrage= à droite et à gauche (= en début et en fin de rang). Bon tricot!

05.04.2019 - 09:48