DROPS / 160 / 3

Maja by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-007
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL- XXXL
Materials: DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCLUAR NEEDLE SIZE (80 cm) 7 mm - or size needed to get 13 sts x 18 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white) NO 522 – 3 pieces in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures approx: 22,32 and 42 cm for all sizes. Make the buttonholes by K tog 4th and 5th st from RS and make a YO, K YO on next row.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Loosely cast on 177-193-209-225-241-257 sts (incl 8 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS). Then work according to diagram A.1 as follows: 8 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, repeat A.1 until 9 sts remain, work 1 st in stocking st and 8 band sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically = 137-149-161-173-185-197 sts. Now work according to diagram A.2 over A.1. When diagram has been worked 1 time in total vertically, work 2 ridges AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2 sts evenly on row = 139-151-163-175-187-199 sts. Now work according to diagram A.3 and A.4 as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, repeat A.3 until 11 sts remain, work A.4 and 8 band sts in garter st. Work diagram A.3 and A.4 2 times in total vertically. Work 2 ridges. Work according to diagram A.5-A.7 as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, A.5 over 4 sts, repeat A.6 until 13 sts remain, A.7 over 5 sts and 8 band sts in garter st. NOTE: Dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above - on right band. Work diagram 1 time vertically. Work 2 ridges - AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 2 sts evenly on row = 137-149-161-173-185-197 sts. Then work according to diagram A.2 as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, repeat A.2 until 9 sts remain, 1 st in stocking st and 8 band sts in garter st. Work diagram 3 times in total vertically. Work 2 ridges AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 4-10-4-10-4-10 sts evenly on row = 133-139-157-163-181-187 sts. Work according to A.3-A.4 as before- AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-52-53-55-57-60 cm, divide the piece as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, work according to diagram over 26-28-32-34-38-40 sts, cast off the next 6 sts, work according to diagram over 53-55-65-67-77-79 sts, cast off 6 sts and work according to diagram over 26-28-32-34-38-40 sts and 8 band sts in garter st. Then finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 53-55-65-67-77-79 sts. Continue with pattern as before and cast off for armholes in each side on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-4-4 times and 1 st 3-2-4-3-4-4 times = 47-47-53-53-53-55 sts – NOTE: Work sts that do not fit pattern when casting off in stocking st. When piece measures approx. 58-60-62-62-66-68 cm (adjust after 1 whole repetition vertically), K 4 rows. Then work A.5-A.7 1 time vertically. After A.5-A,7 work in stocking st until finished measurements. When piece measures 68-70-72-75-78-81 cm, cast off the middle 11-11-13-13-13-13 sts for neck. Then cast off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 17-17-19-19-19-20 sts remain on each shoulder. When piece measures 69-71-73-76-79-82 cm, work 1 ridge before casting off. Piece measures 70-72-74-77-80-83 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-36-40-42-46-48 sts. Work and cast off for armhole as on back piece. Work as back piece until piece measures appr 58-60-62-62-66-68 cm - adapt after a whole rep of diagram A.3-A.4 in hight. Knit 4 rows and AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 st evenly on first row. Knit diagram A.5-A.7 and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st for neck inside 8 band st, dec on every 4th row a total of 3-4-4-5-4-5 times - adapt pattern as you go. When A.5-A.7 is worked 1 time in hight knit in stock st until finished measurements. Make sure to work the same no of rows as on back piece = 25-25-27-27-27-28 st. When piece measures 69-71-73-76-79-82 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. On next row from WS cast off the first 17-17-19-19-19-20 sts towards the shoulder and work the rest of row. Then work in garter st over the 8 band sts with short rows, beg from RS as follows: * K 4 sts, turn piece and K back. K all sts, turn piece and K back. * Repeat from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm from shoulder (measured on the short side of band) and loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-36-40-42-46-50 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed - NOTE: Make sure that the pattern is the same on each side of mid front. When piece measures 69-71-73-76-79-82 cm, work 1 ridge over all sts. On next row from RS cast off the first 17-17-19-19-19-20 sts, work the rest of row and work short rows as follows, beg from WS: * K 4 sts, turn and work back, K all sts, turn and work back. * Repeat from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm from shoulder (measured on the short side of band) and loosely cast off.

SLEEVE:
Loosely cast on 26-26-29-29-32-32 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Air. Work 2 ridges (1st row = RS).
Then work A.3 as follows: 1 edge st, A.3 over 24-24-27-27-30-30 sts and 1 edge st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures approx. 17 cm, adjust after 1 whole repetition vertically. Work 2 ridges (1st row = RS). Then work A.5-A.7 as follows: 1 edge st, 2-2-0-0-2-2 sts in stocking st, A.5 over 4 sts, repeat A.6 2-2-3-3-3-3 times, A.7 over 5 sts, 1-1-0-0-1-1 st in stocking st and 1 edge st AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½
cm 10-11-11-13-13-14 times in total = 46-48-51-55-58-60 sts (work the inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern). When A.5-A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, work according to diagram A.2 4 times in total vertically. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. When piece measures 49-47-47-45-44-43 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) cast off for sleeve cap in each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-1-1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-6-5-6-7-8 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve seams. Sew on buttons. Sew band tog mid back and fasten the side of band to neck edge at the back.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO (loose)
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (66)

Isabelle 01.10.2019 - 10:07:

Bonjour Un grand merci pour vos modeles Les explications sont juste parfaites c est la premiere fois que je vois un site aussi complet .Encore merci

Annette 30.10.2018 - 08:45:

Veel patronen, waaronder dit vest, zijn voor een rondbreinaald. Hoe kan ik deze het best omzetten naar gewone breinaalden? Ik vind rondbreinaalden een verschrikking, maar wil wel graag dit vest maken.

DROPS Design 31.10.2018 kl. 14:45:

Dag Annette,

Dit patroon zou je inderdaad ook met rechte naalden kunnen breien. Kijk even goed hoe je uitkomt met het patroon in de zijnaden. In deze instructie vind je informatie over hoe je een patroon omzet om met rechte naalden te breien.

Katharina 16.02.2018 - 22:02:

Habe diese Jacke jetzt das zweite Mal gestrickt, nun in Farbe Natur. Der Schnitt ist perfekt, man muss nur darauf achten, dass die Ärmel nicht zu lang werden. Auch in hell ist sie sehr apart und wird meine Sommergarderobe sehr schick ergänzen - vielen Dank mal wieder!!!

Elaine 03.01.2018 - 14:27:

Hi, there! Lovely pattern. Working up beautifully. It looks like the sleeves are worked flat, even though the instruction indicates a circular needle. Am I reading that correctly? Farther along there is a sleeve seam which is mentioned separate from the armhole seam. Is there a reason why the sleeves aren't worked in circle?

DROPS Design 04.01.2018 kl. 13:17:

Dear Elaine, sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle to get enough room for all sts. Designer sometimes rather work sleeves back and forth so that pattern will match properly around. Happy knitting!

Desseaux 05.03.2017 - 21:47:

Bonsoir je suis en train de faire le modele maja by drops design drops 160-3 taille s je monte 177 mailles et apres les diminutions avec le diagramme a.1 je devrais me retrouve avec 137 mailles et non je me retrouve avec 150 mailles comment faire merci

DROPS Design 06.03.2017 kl. 10:12:

Bonjour Mme Desseaux, vous répétez 10 fois A.1 au total, soit 10 x 16 m au 1er rang de A.1: 8 m de bordure, 10 x A.1 (=10x16= 160 m), 1 m end, 8 m de bordure. Dans chaque A.1 vous allez diminuer 4 m, il reste 12 m au dernier rang de A.1: 8 m de bordure, 10 x A.1 (= 10x12=120), 1 m end, 8 m de bordure = 137 m. Bon tricot!

Corrie Septer 18.02.2017 - 11:54:

Hallo Moet ik nu wel of niet de 8 stk aan weerskanten bij het opzetten van de l optellen?

DROPS Design 21.02.2017 kl. 16:20:

Hoi Corrie. Er staat in het patroon: Zet losjes 177-193-209-225-241-257 st op (incl. 8 voorbies st aan elke kant) met rondbreinld 7 mm en Air. Inclusief betekent dat de voorbiesst zitten in het totaal antaal st. Je moet niet extra optellen.

Isabelle Thériault 14.02.2017 - 04:04:

Je crois qu'il y a une erreur dans le nombre de mailles pour les manches. Elles sont beaucoup trop étroites. Après avoir cousu les manches sur le chandail, je dois les enlever et les refaire avec au moins 42 m.

DROPS Design 14.02.2017 kl. 09:48:

Bonjour Mme Thériault, pensez à toujours bien conserver la même tension que pour votre échantillon pour avoir le résultat optimal. Bon tricot!

Anne Sherren 14.01.2017 - 23:34:

This is for DROPS 160-3 Jacket.i have just made my first button hole and have proceeded to work diagram 1 again but have ended up decreasing stitches from 175 to 135 can you explain?

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 09:40:

Dear Mrs Sherren, please make sure you were working diagrams as in chart, ie number of sts in each repeat should be constant. it can be a good idea to add a marker between each repeat so that you can always check your number of sts. Happy knitting!

Inge Nielsen 02.01.2017 - 14:07:

Hej, jeg har lavet en strikke prøve og er nu i tvivl om hvad jeg skal gøre. Jeg har på pinde nr 7 strikke 13 masker og 18 pinde. Mit resultat blev 11x 9 cm. Hvad gør jeg? Vælger en mindre pind, således at breden passer eller en større, således at højden passe? Venlig hilsen Inge.

DROPS Design 10.01.2017 kl. 14:10:

Hej Inge. Jeg ville nok pröve en mindre pind, saa i hvert fald bredden bliver god. Vask ogsaa pröven - den kan give lidt forskel (og en mere korrekt strikkefasthed). Det er altid nemmere at korrigere i höjden end at have end for smal eller for bred jakke.

Francine COLLET 18.11.2016 - 17:26:

Bonjour! Après avoir tricoté le diagramme A1, je me retrouve avec une quantité de mailles bien inférieure à 149 (comme indiqué dans les explications) Ne manque-t-il pas des jetés dans ce diagramme? Merci

DROPS Design 18.11.2016 kl. 17:39:

Bonjour Mme Collet, on tricote ainsi en taille M sur les 193 m: 8 m point mousse, 11 fois les 16 m de A.1, 1 m jersey et 8 m point mousse. Dans A.1, on va diminuer 4 m au total dans chacun des 11 répétitions, soit 44 diminutions au total, il reste alors: 193-44= 149 m. Bon tricot!

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