DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lacey Days Jacket

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-28
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-041
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 02, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 18 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-8-8-9-9 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 0.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Applies when piece is worked back and forth.
On every tr row replace first tr with 3 ch. Replace first dtr on every row with dtr with 4 ch, finish row with 1 sl st in 4th ch. Replace first dc on every row with dc with 1 ch, finish row with 1 sl st in first ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in 1 tr. Do not inc over band.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 tr dec.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.12. A.12 shows how pattern beg when working in the round on sleeve.
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YOKE:
Worked top down, back and forth. Work 171-171-181-186-191-201 ch on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Light. Work next row as follows:
1 tr in 4th ch (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 136-136-144-148-152-160 tr.

READ CROCHET INFO! Insert 12 markers in the piece as follows: Work 21-21-23-24-25-27 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-5-3-3-4-2 tr evenly – READ INCREASE TIP, insert first marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 16 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 30-30-34-36-38-42 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-10-6-6-8-4 tr evenly, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 16 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 21-21-23-24-25-27 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-5-3-3-4-2 tr evenly = 140-156-156-160-168-168 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! On next row from RS, inc as follows: Inc 1 tr on each side of every marker (= 24 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 3-3-4-6-7-9 times in total, then inc before every marker (= 12 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 4-4-4-2-2-0 times in total = 260-276-300-328-360-384 tr. Piece measures approx. 17-17-19-19-21-21 cm. On next row work as follows: 41-44-48-53-59-63 tr (front piece), 8 ch (armhole), skip 54-56-60-64-68-72 tr from previous row (to be used for sleeve later), 70-76-84-94-106-114 tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-1-3-1-1-3 tr evenly (back piece), 8 ch (armhole), skip 54-56-60-64-68-72 tr from previous row (to be used for sleeve later) and 41-44-48-53-59-63 tr (front piece) = 169-181-199-217-241-259 tr/ch. Continue to work as follows: A.4 (= 6 tr band), A.1, A.2 24-26-29-32-36-39 times in total in width, A.3, finish with A.5 (= 6 tr band).

Work the first 7 row of A.z. On 8th row in A.z (= tr-row) inc 6 tr evenly – READ INCREASE TIP-2 = 175-187-205-223-247-265 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 25-27-30-33-37-40 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z 1-2-2-3-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.x over A.y. On 2nd row in A.x inc 12 tr evenly = 187-199-217-235-259-277 tr. Continue to work A.x as before but now work A.2 27-29-32-35-39-42 times in width. On last row in A.x inc 6 tr evenly = 193-205-223-241-265-283 tr. Then work A.z over A.x (now work A.2 28-30-33-36-40-43 times in width). On 8th row in A.z inc 12 tr evenly = 205-217-235-253-277-295 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 30-32-35-38-42-45 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z 1-2-2-3-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.x over A.y. On 2nd row in A.x inc 6 tr evenly = 211-223-241-259-283-301 tr. Continue to work A.x as before but now work A.2 31-33-36-39-43-46 times in width. On last row in A.x inc 10-14-12-10-18-16 tr evenly = 221-237-253-269-301-317 tr. Then work as follows: A.8 (= 6 tr band), A.6 (= 16 tr) 13-14-15-16-18-19 times in total, A.7 (= 1 tr), finish with A.9 (= 6 tr band). Fasten off when A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 65-69-71-75-77-77 cm.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round, top down - see diagram A.12 on how round beg and ends with 1 sl st in ch. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr). Then work with 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch. Then work with 1 tr in every tr over sleeve AT THE SAME TIME dec 1-3-1-5-3-1 tr evenly – READ DECREASE TIP, before working 1 tr in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 61-61-67-67-73-79 tr. Continue to work as follows: A.1, A.2 8-8-9-9-10-11 times in width, finish with A.3. On 8th round in A.z (= tr-round) dec 6 tr evenly = 55-55-61-61-67-73 tr. Continue to work A.z as before but now work A.2 7-7-8-8-9-10 times in width. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z. When A.y has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.x over A.y. On last round in A.x dec 6 tr evenly = 49-49-55-55-61-67 tr. Then work A.z over A.x. A.2 is now worked 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width. On 8th round dec 6 tr evenly = 43-43-49-49-55-61 tr. When A.z has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.y over A.z. Then work A.x over A.y. On last round in A.x dec 0-0-0-0-6-6 tr evenly = 43-43-49-49-49-55 tr. Then work the first 5 rounds of A.z. A.2 is now worked 5-5-6-6-6-7 times in width. Fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 44 cm in all sizes. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work 1 edge around the neck in ch-row on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Light, beg mid front from RS as follows: Work up 119-119-125-125-131-131 tr in ch-row. Then work A.11 1 time in total, then A.10 19-19-20-20-21-21 times in total in width. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten the buttons on left front piece, the top button approx. 1 cm from neck edge, fasten the remaining button approx. 8 cm apart. Button between 2 tr on right front piece.

Diagram

symbols = dc in st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = ch
symbols = tr around ch
symbols = 1 bobble with 4 dtr: Work 1 dtr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dtr in each of the next 3 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 5 sts on hook
symbols = dtr in st
symbols = first row/round is explained in pattern
symbols = 1 dc around ch
symbols = 2 tr in same st
symbols = Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = 7 tr in same ch/tr
symbols = sl st
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Terena Currey wrote:

In the yoke is says to do the increases every row on the RS. I’m new to crochet, so does this mean the increases are done in every 2 nd row or every row please?

23.10.2023 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Terena, The increases are worked every 2nd row, beginning the first increase from the right side. Happy crocheting!

24.10.2023 - 07:20

country flag Kirsten Merrild wrote:

Mangler stadig svar på mine spørgsmål til denne model, som jeg fortsat ikke kan få til at passe med mønster og masketal. Det er vel 5 uger siden, jeg skrev første gang, og arbejdet venter stadig, så jeg vil rigtig nok blive glad for at få et svar

20.10.2023 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristen. Se vårt forrige svar til deg. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2023 - 13:22

country flag Kirsten Merrild wrote:

Hvordan skal mønsteret laves? skal alle rækkerne laves efter hinanden? uanset hvordan jeg vender og drejer det, kan jeg ikke få masketallene til at passe i den største størrelses, og det fremgår ikke klart af forklaringen. Jeg indsendte samme spørgsmål for et par uger siden, men har ikke fået svar, håber at få det nu. ;)

15.10.2023 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kirsten. Beklager at du ikke har fått noe svar, men vi kan ikke se at du har sendt inn noen spørsmål tidligere (kun spørsmål fra 15.10.2023 - 18:44 og 20.10.2023 - 12:36). Når du skal starte å hekle etter diagrammene skal du ha 259 staver/luftmasker. Så hekler du videre slik: A.4 (over 6 staver) + A.1 (over 4 masker) + A.2 (over 6 masker x 39 = 234 masker) +A.3 (over 9 masker) + A.5 (over 6 masker). Skrevet med bare tall: 6+4+234+9+6= 259 masker, og det er det maskeantallet du startet med. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2023 - 13:20

country flag Irene Nohns wrote:

Mache die Größe S von 140 Stb auf 260 ich komme da nicht hin 3 x Arbeit dann 4 x Arbeit ich kann es nicht nachvollziehen

12.03.2021 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nohns, es wird zuerst 24 Stäbchen x 3 zugenommen, dann nur 12 Stäbchen x 4 = 140 + (24x3) + (12x4)= 260 Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.03.2021 - 08:05

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hallo, bin gerade beim Häkeln von A.z in der 4. Reihe, A.3. Müsste da nicht das Zeichen x (ganz rechts) statt dem kleinen T stehen? Also die feste Masche in die Masche und nicht um die Masche? Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße!

28.02.2021 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, diese feste Masche sollte um die Luftmaschenbogen von den vorrigen Runde gehäkelt werden (aber die können Sie auch in die mittlere Luftmasche häkeln, wenn Sie das so lieber haben). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

01.03.2021 - 09:25

country flag Kay Johnston wrote:

It this pattern available with written instructions rather than working from a chart?

26.06.2020 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Johnston, this pattern is only avalaible with diagrams - you will learn more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

29.06.2020 - 07:22

country flag Kay Johnston wrote:

It this pattern available in written instructions rather than working from a chart?

26.06.2020 - 19:44

country flag Yvonne Plath wrote:

Hallo, ich komme leider nicht weiter. Habe die Stäbchenreihen wie angegeben gehäkelt, komme laut Anleitung aber auf nur 11 Reihen. Nach 10 Reihen sollte die Gesamtlänge in L 19 cm betragen. Kommt natürlich nicht hin. Und laut Bild von der Jacke müssten es 19 Reihen Stäbchen sein. Von 19 Reihen finde ich aber in der Anleitung nichts. Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

14.05.2020 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Plath, es wird in der Größe L 4 Mal in jede 2. Reihe (24 Stb) dann 4 Mal in jede 2. Reihe (12 Stb) zugenommen = da sind schon 16 Reihen + die vom Anfang und die letzte Rückreihe sollten Sie die ca 19 cm bekommen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

14.05.2020 - 12:05

country flag Christel wrote:

Om dit vest in kinderafmetingen te maken voor 10 jaar ,hoe bereken ik dit ? Mvg Christel

23.02.2020 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Christel,

Dit patroon is er alleen voor volwassenen. Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen naar persoonlijke wensen aan te passen. Wellicht kun je een geschikt patroon vinden tussen de patronen voor kinderen.

23.02.2020 - 13:39

country flag Patrizia wrote:

CIAO NON RIESCO A VEDERE IL PARTICOLARE DALLA DOMANDA ANCHE SE MAGARI POTREI CAPIRE DALLE ISTRUZIONI E TROVARE LA SOLUZIONE AL MIO DUBBIO.........LE MANICHE SONO SENZA CUCITURA CIOE' PARTONO DALLO SPRONE ROTONDO?CHIEDO SCUSA E SPERO DI ESSERMI SPIEGATA STO CERCANDO UN MODELLO CHE ABBIA LA MANICA ATTACCATA MI POTETE AIUTARE ?GRAZIE IN ANTICIPO BUONA GIORNATA E BUON LAVORO

08.10.2019 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Sì, le maniche vengono lavorate dallo sprone verso il basso. Il cardigan è lavorato dall'alto verso il basso (quindi si parte dal collo). Buon lavoro!

08.10.2019 - 12:55