DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 161-36
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-300
Yarn group A
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Size: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g colour no 340, blue lagoon.
50 g for all sizes in colour no 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

PATTERN:
Diagrams A.1 to A.4. Work the entire pattern in stocking st.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 9 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 9 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 15-15-15 sts on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 66 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with blue lagoon. K 6 rounds, P 1 round (= folding edge) and K 6 rounds. Then work according to diagram A.1 over all sts (= 3 times in width) - AT THE SAME TIME on last round of A.1 adjust no of sts to 63-70-70. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.2 over all sts (= 9-10-10 times in width) - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 62-68-68 on last round in A.2. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, slip 31-37-37 sts on 1 stitch holder = 31 sts for heel.
Work A.4 over heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm, insert a marker, then decrease for heel - see HEEL DECREASE – continue pattern according to A.4.
After heel decrease, pick up 12-13-14 sts on each side of heel (pick up alternately off white and blue lagoon to fit A.4) and slip the 31-37-37 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-78-80 sts. Work the 31-37-37 sts on top of foot as follows: A.3A (= 3 sts), A.3B (= 25-31-31 sts), A.3C (= 3 sts), work sts under foot with A.4 (= 31 sts) - AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of A.3 (sts on top of foot). K the 2 sts before A.3A tog and K the 2 sts after diagram A.3C twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), repeat dec every other round a total of 6 times = 58-66-68 sts. Continue with pattern A.3 and A.4 until piece measures 17-18-21 cm from marker on heel (= 5-6-6 cm remain). Then work as follows: A.3A, A.3B over the next 25-31-31 sts, A.3C, A.4 over the next 27-29-31 sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of A.3A/A.3C. Dec as follows before diagram A.3A/C: K the last 2 sts tog. Dec as follows after diagram A.3A/C: Slip first st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat dec every other round a total of 6-9-9 times and then every round a total of 4-1-1 times = 18-26-28 sts remain on needle. On next round, K all sts tog 2 by 2 = 9-13-14 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Knit another sock the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold in the folding edge, and fasten with neat, invisible stitches

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.08.2015
Correction:...Continue with pattern A.3 and A.4 until piece measures 17-18-21 cm from marker on heel (= 5-6-6 cm remain). Then work as follows: A.3A, A.3B over the next 25-31-31 sts, A.3C, A.4 over the next 27-29-31 sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of A.3A/A.3C. Dec as follows before diagram A.3A/C: K the last 2 sts tog. Dec as follows after diagram A.3A/C: Slip first st as if to K, K 1, psso...

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = blue lagoon
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Anick Bossy wrote:

Bonjour, Au début de la chaussette: comment faire entrer 3 fois A1 ( 22 m) dans 70 m? Il y a certainement quelque chose que je ne comprends pas. Merci pour votre aide. Anick

08.08.2023 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bossy, au début de la chaussette, on monte 66 mailles dans les 3 tailles, et on tricote ainsi 3 fois les 22 mailles de A.1 (soit 66 mailles au total), puis au dernier tour de A.1, on va augmenter 4 mailles à intervalles réguliers pour obtenir 70 mailles dans les 2 grandes tailles. Bon tricot!

08.08.2023 - 09:24

country flag Anne wrote:

Savner en god teknik (video) til at skifte farve for hver maske på vrangpinden (striberne på hælen, når der strikkes frem og tilbage)

01.01.2021 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, jeg tror du kan bruge denne, men der ligger flere under selve opskriften: Fair Isle - 2 farver God fornøjelse!

07.01.2021 - 15:23

country flag Birgit wrote:

A3a + A3B + A3C en A4 is volgens mij 3+31+3+29 is 66. Dan minderen voor de teen 10 x 2 steken is 66-20 is 46 steken over, terwijl in beschrijving 26 steken over zijn. Hoe kan dit, wat te doen met de 20 extra steken??

05.11.2020 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Birgit,

Je mindert aan beide kanten van A.3A en aan beide kanten van A.3C in totaal 10 keer = 40 steken geminderd in totaal; aan elke kant 20 steken.

19.11.2020 - 11:25

country flag Anita Wangen wrote:

Når jeg strikker hælfellingen blir den ytterste av maskene så løse at det blir hull. Noe tips for å forhindre dette? Er det fordi en strikkker annenhver maske med to tråder?

05.01.2020 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anita, Du kan prøve å ta masken av pinnen, vri den, sette den tilbake på pinnen og strikke den etterpå, God fornøyelse!

06.01.2020 - 07:13

Gill Knight wrote:

I don't understand what it means in the pattern with 66 stitches when it says adjust stitches to 68 for the large size. How are we adjusting? Casting on more stitches?

03.08.2018 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gill, yes it means that in that certain row you should add (increase) or decrease enough stitches so you will have the number that is given. In your case that is decreasing two stitches in the round. Happy Knitting!

04.08.2018 - 23:38

Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, con quante maglie bisogna iniziare per le taglie 38-40? C'è solo un'indicazione (66m) ma mi sembra un po' strano che siano le stesse per tutte le taglie. Grazie mille :)

23.06.2016 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Si avviano 66 m per tutte le taglie. Il numero delle m cambia per le diverse taglie nel corso del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

23.06.2016 - 21:09

country flag Carmen Wirth wrote:

Hallo, ich habe mir heute Wolle für drei Paar Socken bestellt, weil sie mir und auch meinem Mann sehr gut gefallen. Ich studiere nun die Anleitung und stolpere sogleich über eine Formulierung: ,,in Norwegertechnik mit mehreren Wollknäuel arbeiten,, Bedeutet dies bei 5 Maschen einer Farbe jeweils einen neuen Knäuel zu nehmen oder kann ich über diese Strecke die zweite Farbe mitführen. Sind 4 oder 5 Maschen zuviel für einen Spannfaden hinter der Arbeit. Danke. MfG C.Wirth

07.02.2016 - 18:03

DROPS Design answered:

Sie führen die 2. Farbe stets mit, wenn in einer Rd mit 2 Farben gearbeitet wird. Sie können den Faden problemlos über ca. 4 Maschen mitführen, wenn es mehr Maschen sind, verschränken Sie den mitgeführten Faden einfach mit dem Arbeitsfaden, dann hängt er nicht durch und Sie verheddern sich beim Anziehen nicht darin. "Norwegertechnik" ist gleichbedeutend mit Fair-Isle, dazu finden Sie auch Videos im Kopf neben dem Foto.

09.02.2016 - 14:44

country flag Andrea wrote:

Vielen Dank. So ist es klar!!!

05.05.2015 - 12:00

country flag Andrea wrote:

Ich komme nichtweiter... nach der Ferse nehme habe ich 15 Maschen auf der Nadel, fasse seitliche jeweils wieder 12 Maschen auf und hole die 31 stillgelegten Machen wieder auf die Nadel zurück. Somit habe habe ich 70 Maschen. Das verstehe ich. Weiter die Maschen der Fußsole mit 31Maschen: 70 - 31 = 39 Aber A3a (3 Maschen ) + A3B (31Maschen ) + A3C (3 Maschen ) ergeben zusammen nur 37 Maschen. Das heißt es bleiben 2 Maschen übrig....... Wo ist mein Fehler......

04.05.2015 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Ich denke, der Hinweis, dass A.4 aus 31 M besteht, ist an der Stelle etwas irreführend - denn Sie müssen einfach über alle Fußsohlen-M A.4 stricken. Sie stricken die Runde insgesamt wie folgt: 31 M sind Fußrücken-M (diese M haben mit den M von A.4 nichts zu tun, es sind rein zufällig auch 31 M), der Rest, 39 M, sind die Fußsohlen-M. Die 31 Fußrücken-M stricken Sie in A.3A (3 M), A.3B (25 M - Sie müssen die richtige Größe beachten, die kleinste Größe, die Sie stricken, hat bei A.3B nur 25 M) und A.3C (3 M), alle 39 Fußsohlen-M stricken Sie in A.4. Dann sollte alles aufgehen.

04.05.2015 - 23:52

country flag Viktoria Heep wrote:

Hallo, leider stimmt das Strickmuster nicht mit den abgebildeten Socken im Abschluss überein. Zum Schluss soll 2 x A.4 gearbeitet werden, gem.Bild würde ich sagen es ist auf der Oberseite des Fußes eine Abwandlung von A.3B?

14.04.2015 - 00:06

DROPS Design answered:

Sie haben Recht, es sieht auf dem Foto so aus, als müsste wie folgt gestrickt werden: "A.3A, A.3B über die nächsten 25-31-31 M, A.3C, A.4 über die nächsten 27-29-31 M ...". Ich werde das an die Designerinnen weiterleiten. Sie können wie oben beschrieben weiterstricken, das Muster wird dann mit den Abnahmen natürlich rechts und links abgeschnitten, das sieht man ja auch auf dem Bild.

14.04.2015 - 14:41