Lady Ascot

Crochet DROPS top with fan pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Cotton Viscose”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-26
DROPS design: Pattern no n-171
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm / 33''-36¼''-39 3/8''-43 3/8''-48''-52¾''
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 29, light gray green

DROPS Hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), and 3 repetition of 3rd and 4th round in A.1 = width 9 cm / 3½''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2.

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first dc on every row with dc with ch 3, finish row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Beg every round with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.
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TOP:
Worked top down from mid back. Work 133-137-142-147-152-157 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Viscose and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 1 dc in first ch from ch-ring, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* until 0-4-3-2-1-0 ch remain, 1 dc in each of the last 0-4-3-2-1-0 ch = 112-116-120-124-128-132 dc. Then work piece back and forth. Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in first ch on row - READ CROCHET INFO-1. Turn piece. Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 28 dc evenly (i.e. inc 1 dc after approx. every 4th dc) – READ INCREASE TIP = 140-144-148-152-156-160 dc. Insert 12 markers in the piece as follows: Work 17-18-19-20-21-22 dc (= half back piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-0-0-2-2-1 dc evenly, insert first marker, * work 4 dc, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 20 dc, insert next marker, * work 4 dc, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 34-36-38-40-42-44 dc (= front piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-0-0-4-4-2 dc evenly, insert next marker, * work 4 dc, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 20 dc, insert next marker, * work 4 dc, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 17-18-19-20-21-22 dc (= half back piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-0-0-2-2-1 dc evenly = 144-144-148-160-164-164 dc.

REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! On next row from RS, inc as follows: Inc 1 dc on each side of every marker (= 24 dc inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 1-4-5-7-8-10 times in total, then inc before every marker (= 12 dc inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 9-6-6-4-4-3 times in total = 276-312-340-376-404-440 dc. Piece measures approx. 18-18-20-20-22-23 cm / 7"-7"-8"-8"-8 3/4"-9". Work next row as follows: 36-43-48-54-59-66 dc (= half back piece), work 12 ch (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), skip 66-70-74-80-84-88 dc from previous row (= sleeve), work 72-86-96-108-118-132 dc (= front piece), work 12 ch (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), skip 66-70-74-80-84-88 dc from previous row and work 36-43-48-54-59-66 dc (= half back piece) = 168-196-216-240-260-288 dc/ch (= 84-98-108-120-130-144 dc/ch on back piece and front piece). Insert 1 marker in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch under sleeve while AT THE SAME TIME inc 18-8-6-0-10-6 dc evenly = 186-204-222-240-270-294 dc. Work 1 row with 1 dc in every dc. Now work piece in the round without turning.

FAN PATTERN:
Work 1st-3rd round in A.1 31-34-37-40-45-49 times - READ CROCHET INFO-2. Then repeat 3rd round until piece measures approx. 29-31-31-33-31-31 cm / 11½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-13"-12 1/4"-12 1/4". Now work 4th round until piece measures approx. 40-42-43-45-45-45 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-17"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4". Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in 6th ch of the 12 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next ch 6, work 1 dc in dc-row where ch for sleeve were worked, 1 dc in the next 66-70-74-80-84-88 dc (= over sleeve) AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-4-0-2-6-2 dc evenly, work 1 dc in dc-row where ch for sleeve were worked, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 5 ch under sleeve = 80-88-88-96-104-104 dc. Then work A.2 10-11-11-12-13-13 times in total. Fasten off when A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc
symbols = dc in st
symbols = tr in st
symbols = beg here
symbols = 3 dc around ch-space
symbols = 3 tr around ch-space
symbols = 4 dc around ch-space
symbols = dc around ch-space
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (108)

country flag Erin wrote:

Hello! I am working on this in XXL and I am confused on the marker placement portion. I have (23+4+4+20+4+4+46+4+4+23+4+4=144) with each + being a marker, but I need 164 stitches? Any clarification provided would be much appreciated. Thank you!

15.10.2020 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Erin, it looks like you have forgotten 20 one time after the 46+4+4, ie: 23+4+4+20 +4+4+ 46 + 4+4+20+4+4+23=164. Happy crocheting!

16.10.2020 - 08:54

country flag Cloudy wrote:

The garment on the model looks fitted coming in at the waist and flaring out towards the hem. Another reader said hers looks like a dress and so does mine. Very disappointed in this pattern.

09.10.2020 - 03:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cloudy, did you check and kept correct tension as explained in the pattern? remember to check your size with the measurement chart - read more about charts here. Happy crocheting!

09.10.2020 - 08:08

country flag Moira wrote:

One more thing that’s confusing. It says in A1 to work 1st-3rd rounds 40 times (XL) size and then 3rd round until work measures 33cm. It looks like the 1st round is only done once like a set up row, is that correct? If it is and the 3rd is repeated then why are there two instructions, to repeat 40 times and to repeat until work measures 33cm? One would assume that 1st and 3rd rounds are repeated 40 times just by the way it’s written.i must admit these patterns are not easy to work out.

08.10.2020 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Moira, you repeat 40 times A.1 in the round in size XL (= the row with the arrow 1 to the row with the 3. on the right side) - then after these 3 rows have been worked, you repeat row 3 until piece measures 33 cm, then work row/repeat 4. in A.1 until piece measures 45 cm. Happy crocheting!

09.10.2020 - 07:39

country flag Moira wrote:

Hi there, the A1 diagram does not make any sense in your explanation to a previous knitter. According to your abbreviations, the first row is a sc, then skip 2 and 4 ch, but the next sc is not in any particular dc from the previous row, it is in the middle of two dc. I don’t understand that. Then row 2 (which doesn’t say it’s row 2) starts off with a dc in the chain space. Can you please clarify as your diagram and abbreviations are very confusing.

08.10.2020 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Moira, you repeat the diagram in widht, ie (1 sc in next dc, 4 chains, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 4 chains, skip 2 dc) and repeat from (to). Row 2 just starts wit 3 ch (see CROCHET INFO-1) ie crochet: 3 chains (= 1st dc), 3 dc+2ch+3dc in next ch-space, and repeat with 1 dc in next ch-space. If you like the first dc of 2nd row being in the middle of the first ch-space, you can crochet some sl st in the first ch-space. Happy crocheting!

09.10.2020 - 07:27

country flag Johanna wrote:

Erg mooi patroon! Ik heb een vraag over de markeerders. Ik ben nu bij de toer gekomen waar ik aan elke kant van de markeerders moet meerderen, maar wat moet ik met de markeerders doen wanneer ik naar de volgende toer ga? Moet ik ze laten zitten en dan op dezelfde hoogte in de volgende goede kant weer meerderen, of neem ik ze steeds mee naar de volgende toer? ( het is de eerste keer dat ik een ronde pas haak...😅) Alvast bedankt!

29.09.2020 - 01:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Johanna,

Je kunt de markeerders inderdaad laten zitten en meenemen in de hoogte, zodat je weet waar je de volgende keer moet meerderen.

21.10.2020 - 12:20

country flag Debbie Zaayman wrote:

I have started with this pattern and have started the first four rows of the fan pattern.\r\nCan i please give you my email address and then you can forward me your email address.\r\nI want to send you a picture so you can see if looks right before i continue.\r\nCurrently it looks like a dress and dont know if it is suppose to look like that.\r

24.08.2020 - 16:44

country flag Debbie Zaayman wrote:

Can you please clarify for me with regrds to the first fan patter row..... do i understand it correctly: A1 the first row, is it three trebles in one chain, two chains(skip 2 chains) three treble in next chain and one treble in next chain

16.08.2020 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zaayman, start A.1 with 1 double crochet (= UK Engish), then 4 chains, skip 2 stitches, then repeat (1 dc in next st, 4 chains, skip 2 sts) around. on 2nd row work 3 ch (at the beg of round only to replace 1st treble), then crochet around next ch-space: 3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr, and repeat (1 tr around next ch-space, 3tr +2 ch+3 tr around next ch-space). Happy crocheting!

17.08.2020 - 08:51

country flag Anna wrote:

Bei den Zunahmen vor und nach, bzw. dann nur noch vor dem Markier steht, dass diese in den Hinreihen gearbeitet werden. Ist hiermit tatsächlich nur jede zweite Reihe gemeint und die Rückreihen finden ohne Zunahmen statt?

20.07.2020 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, wenn Sie in jede Hinreihe zunehmen sollen, dann nehmen Sie in jeder 2. Reihe, dh nur bei den Hinreihen, bei den Rückreihen werden Sie nicht zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.07.2020 - 10:01

country flag Judy wrote:

This is my first attempt at making a top Would I be able to make the sleeves slightly longer?

10.06.2020 - 14:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judy, you can get help from a similar garment (worked top down, same tension) or contact the yarn where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

10.06.2020 - 15:13

country flag Patricia Noya wrote:

Beste Drops Design, ik ben er gelukkig uit gekomen, de top is klaar en het resultaat is prachtig. De waaier heb ik met een halve maat haaknaald kleiner gedaan. Nu met de volgende top bezig voor mezelf. Bedankt XX

05.06.2020 - 11:31