DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Lady Ascot

Crochet DROPS top with fan pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Cotton Viscose”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 162-26
DROPS design: Pattern no n-171
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 29, light grey green

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm, and 3 repetition of 3rd and 4th round in A.1 = width 9 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2.

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first tr on every row with tr with 3 ch, finish row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Beg every round with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in 1 tr.
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TOP:
Worked top down from mid back. Work 133-137-142-147-152-157 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Cotton Viscose and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in first ch from ch-ring, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* until 0-4-3-2-1-0 ch remain, 1 tr in each of the last 0-4-3-2-1-0 ch = 112-116-120-124-128-132 tr. Then work piece back and forth. Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in first ch on row - READ CROCHET INFO-1. Turn piece. Work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME inc 28 tr evenly (i.e. inc 1 tr after approx. every 4th tr) – READ INCREASE TIP = 140-144-148-152-156-160 tr. Insert 12 markers in the piece as follows: Work 17-18-19-20-21-22 tr (= half back piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-0-0-2-2-1 tr evenly, insert first marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 20 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 34-36-38-40-42-44 tr (= front piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-0-0-4-4-2 tr evenly, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 20 tr, insert next marker, * work 4 tr, insert next marker *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 17-18-19-20-21-22 tr (= half back piece) AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-0-0-2-2-1 tr evenly = 144-144-148-160-164-164 tr.

REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! On next row from RS, inc as follows: Inc 1 tr on each side of every marker (= 24 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 1-4-5-7-8-10 times in total, then inc before every marker (= 12 tr inc), repeat inc on every row from RS 9-6-6-4-4-3 times in total = 276-312-340-376-404-440 tr. Piece measures approx. 18-18-20-20-22-23 cm. Work next row as follows: 36-43-48-54-59-66 tr (= half back piece), work 12 ch (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), skip 66-70-74-80-84-88 tr from previous row (= sleeve), work 72-86-96-108-118-132 tr (= front piece), work 12 ch (insert a marker in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), skip 66-70-74-80-84-88 tr from previous row and work 36-43-48-54-59-66 tr (= half back piece) = 168-196-216-240-260-288 tr/ch (= 84-98-108-120-130-144 tr/ch on back piece and front piece). Insert 1 marker in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch under sleeve while AT THE SAME TIME inc 18-8-6-0-10-6 tr evenly = 186-204-222-240-270-294 tr. Work 1 row with 1 tr in every tr. Now work piece in the round without turning.

FAN PATTERN:
Work 1st-3rd round in A.1 31-34-37-40-45-49 times - READ CROCHET INFO-2. Then repeat 3rd round until piece measures approx. 29-31-31-33-31-31 cm. Now work 4th round until piece measures approx. 40-42-43-45-45-45 cm. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in 6th ch of the 12 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr). Then work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch, work 1 tr in tr-row where ch for sleeve were worked, 1 tr in the next 66-70-74-80-84-88 tr (= over sleeve) AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-4-0-2-6-2 tr evenly, work 1 tr in tr-row where ch for sleeve were worked, work 1 tr in each of the remaining 5 ch under sleeve = 80-88-88-96-104-104 tr. Then work A.2 10-11-11-12-13-13 times in total. Fasten off when A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc
symbols = tr in st
symbols = dtr in st
symbols = beg here
symbols = 3 tr around ch-space
symbols = 3 dtr around ch-space
symbols = 4 tr around ch-space
symbols = tr around ch-space
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 162-26

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Comments / Questions (108)

country flag Trine wrote:

Jeg hækler toppen i en str. small, men var forvirret over, at man skulle gentage rækken med 24 udtagninger 1 gang og samtidig ende med 276 masker (altså hækle 2 rækker m. 24 udtagninger). Kan så se på en tidligere kommentar, at man ikke skal GENTAGE den 1 gang, men kun lave den 1 gang TOTALT... Nu kan jeg så trævle 19 rækker op, fordi jeg er endt med 300 masker. Lidt forkert formulering :(

23.07.2023 - 22:43

country flag Melissa wrote:

Hello. I'm following the 2nd set of digits, so starting with 137 ch, decrease to 116 dc, inc to 144 dc. After putting in the stitch markers, I followed the increases of 24 dc as per pattern & had 312 st, BUT I hadn't yet done the rows of 12dc increases. The pattern says I should have 312 stitches after all of those but the maths don't work. What should the stitch count be after adding the rows of 12 dc increases?

13.06.2023 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Melissa, you have inserted a total of 12 markers, and you will first increase 4 times 1 dc on each side of each marker (= you increase 2 sts x 12 markers = 24 sts on every increase round) a total of 4 times (= 144+ (24 sts increased x 4 times) = 240 sts; then you will increase only 1 st before each marker (1 stitch at 12 markers = 12 sts increased ) a total of 6 times = 240 + (12 sts increased x 6 times) = 312 sts. Happy crocheting!

14.06.2023 - 07:32

country flag Pavla Matoušková wrote:

Začínám vějířovity vzor A1 a není jednoznačné jak háçkovat 1. řadu. Krátký sloupek jasný, 4 řetízková oka jasná. Nechápu kam se krátký sloupek dává. Do každéko třetího dlouhého sloupku? Nebo nejak jinak? Předem děkuji za vysvětlení Pavla Matoušková

02.02.2023 - 14:01

country flag Birgitte Skov Iversen wrote:

Ups kom til at skrive, at det var en kommentar, men det er et spørgsmål. I starten af opskriften står fl.g "DROPS HÆKLENÅL NR 3,5 – eller den nål du skal bruge for at få 22 st x 12 rækker på 10 x 10 cm, og 3 rapporter af 3. og 4.omg i A.1 på 9 cm i bredden2 Hvad betyder 3 rapporter af 3. og 4. omg. i A.1 på 9 cm. i bredden.

09.12.2022 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitte. Da skal du hekle 3. og 4. omg av diagram A.1 3 ganger og få det til å bli 9 cm i bredden. Altså A.1 omgang (3+4)+(3+4)+(3+4) = 9 cm i bredden. mvh DROPS Design

12.12.2022 - 13:59

country flag Birgitte Skov Iversen wrote:

I starten af opskriften står flg. "DROPS HÆKLENÅL NR 3,5 – eller den nål du skal bruge for at få 22 st x 12 rækker på 10 x 10 cm, og 3 rapporter af 3. og 4.omg i A.1 på 9 cm i bredden." Hvad betyder 3 rapporter af 3. og 4. omg. i A.1. på 9 cm. i bredden Hilsen Birgitte

09.12.2022 - 12:12

country flag Geetha wrote:

For round 3 , we put a DC in the previous stitch , " 3dc,2 chain,3dc" in the chain space 1 and again "3dc,2chain,3dc" in chain space 2 , then put a DC in each of the below DC stitch ( total 7) before we reach the next 2 chains and put the "3dc,2chain,3dc" in each chain space and continue ?

01.08.2022 - 10:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Geetha, on round 3 work: *1 dc in the dc from previous round, skip 3 dc, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc around the 2-chain-space, skip the next 3 dc*, repeat from *-*. So that you will work 3 dc+2ch+3 dc around the 2 chains from previous round. Happy crocheting!

01.08.2022 - 12:09

country flag Geetha wrote:

So as per A1 diagram , for round 2 , we put a DC in chain space 1 , " 3dc,2chain,2dc" in chain space 2 , then dc in chain space 3 , "3dc,2chain,3dc" in chain space 4 , skip the single crochet stitch below and continue as above in the next 4 chain space?

01.08.2022 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Geetha, A.1 will be worked as follows on 2nd row: *1 dc in first chain space, (3 dc+2ch+3 dc) in next ch-space*, and repeat from *-* all the round. Happy crocheting!

01.08.2022 - 12:08

country flag Geetha wrote:

Can you please explain the A1 diagram please ? The first round is a single crochet , 4 chains ,single crochet ( skipping 2 double crochet below ). The second round which chain space do we start the double crochet ? And the 3 DC ,chain 2 ,3 DC do all go into a single chain space ? Which chain space do we place them ? Similarly for round 3 which chain space do we need to place the stitches ?

30.07.2022 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Geetha, you work 1 double crochet in the first chain space and then, in the second one, work 3dc, chain 2, 3 dc in the next chain space (all in a single one). In round 3 and all the next ones you work double crochet groups inside each of the chain-2 spaces of the previous row. Happy crocheting!

31.07.2022 - 17:44

country flag Daniela wrote:

Buongiorno, chiedo scusa ma avevo inserito il messaggio precedente nella categoria sbagliata. Per questo motivo lo riscrivo di seguito:\r\nBuongiorno e grazie per questo modello così carino! Mi piacerebbe realizzarlo, ma con le maniche a 3/4, potreste darmi delle indicazioni su come fare le maniche più lunghe? Grazie

12.06.2022 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, per un'assistenza così personalizzata, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro! Per inserire il commento come domanda deve selezionare la categoria dal menù a tendina.

15.06.2022 - 19:44

country flag Daniela wrote:

Buongiorno e grazie per questo modello così carino! Mi piacerebbe realizzarlo, ma con le maniche a 3/4, potreste darmi delle indicazioni su come fare le maniche più lunghe? Grazie

10.06.2022 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Daniela, per un'assistenza così personalizzata, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

15.06.2022 - 19:43