Ingela Gröning wrote:
Garnet räcker inte fattas till en hel ärm. Skall man verkligen lägga upp så många maskor till ärmen. ser inte så ut på mönstret. själva koftan är bra i storlek. nu fattas garn till andra ärmen och färgbadet finns ej kvar där jag köpt garnet. /Ingela
17.04.2015 - 12:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ingela. Ja, du starter med 96-105-105-112-112 m - og i og med du strikker A.1 tager du ind. Herefter tager du ogsaa ind iflg mönstret (til 48-56-56-64-64 m) og efter 18 cm tager du ud igen. Men vi skal notere du har manglet garn til denne (hvis du kunne melde hvilken str du laver, ville det vaere bra) Tak.
22.04.2015 - 15:48Luisa wrote:
E per chi non sa utilizzare i ferri circolari?
16.04.2015 - 14:40DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Luisa. Il capo può essere lavorato anche in parti separate. Le m prima del primo segno sono il davanti destro; le m tra i due segni, sono il dietro; le m dopo il secondo segno, sono il dav sinistro. Aggiunga 1 m vivagno per le cuciture. Per la taglia S avrà: dav destro: 6 m bordo, 10 m rov, * A.1 (= 9m), 7 m rov * ripetuto altre 3 volte (= 80 m + 1 m vivagno); per il dietro 151 m + 2 m vivagno; per il dav sinistro 80 m + 1 m vivagno. Se alcuni passaggi non le sono chiari può scrivere qui o sul nostro forum. Buon lavoro!
16.04.2015 - 16:42Anne Hermann wrote:
Vil gerne strikke den fine trøje, men undrer mig over omkredsen. Der skal slås 351 m på til str. m/l og 21 m skal være 10cm. det betyder at trøjen bliver 167 cm i omkreds, kan det være rigtigt? Vh Anne
05.04.2015 - 19:35DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne. Jo, det stemmer. Den skal vaere vid for neden. Du starter med at strikke A.1 som gör at du efter mönstret har 309 m = strikkefastheden er 21 m per 10 cm, men mönstret vil traekke lidt sammen, saa kommer du ud paa ca 70 cm fladt maalt.
23.04.2015 - 14:07Jelina Deuter wrote:
Vielen Dank für den schnellen Kommentar! Habe die Anleitung ganz gelesen und auch ein Stück gestrickt, aber nach A1 und 1xA2 schon mehr als 50g Wolle verbraucht und kann das Teil zwei Mal um mich wickeln. Selbst mit Abnahmen und Zusammziehen kommt das nicht hin..
25.03.2015 - 16:33DROPS Design answered:
Die Maschenzahlen passen aber mit den Maßen zusammen, wenn man die Maschenprobe einhält, unter Berücksichtigung dessen, dass sich das Teil noch leicht zusammenzieht durch das Muster. A.1 besteht ja nur aus 2 R, danach haben Sie ja schon viel weniger M auf der Nadel und das passt, wie gesagt, zu den cm-Angaben der Maßskizze. Haben Sie die Maschenprobe denn richtig gemessen? Am besten strickt man ein Stück von ca 15 x 15 cm (also etwa die anderthalbfache Anzahl M anschlagen wie für die M-Probe angegeben) und misst dann 10 x 10 cm in der Mitte ab.
26.03.2015 - 09:57Jelina Deuter wrote:
Hallo! Ich habe angefangen die Jacke mit Muskat-Garn zu stricken, die Maschenprobe hat gepasst. Aber mit 351 angeschlagenen Maschen ist das Rumpfteil riesig geworden, über 150cm lang. Nach meiner Berechnung bräuchte ich ca 180 Maschen für das Rumpfteil. Aber wie soll ich dann den Rest aufteilen? Ich würde mich wirklich sehr über schnelle Hilfe freuen, zumal das Garn jetzt hier herumliegt und auf seinen Einsatz wartet. Vielen Dank! Jelina Deuter
24.03.2015 - 20:44DROPS Design answered:
Sie dürfen nicht vergessen, dass sich das Muster einerseits etwas zusammenzieht (das können Sie in der Detailaufnahme des Musters sehen) und Sie andererseits Abnahmen arbeiten. Lesen Sie am besten die Anleitung vor dem Stricken einmal durch, dann sehen Sie, dass sich im Laufe des Strickens Abnahmen ergeben. An den Rändern soll die Jacke ja auch etwas "rüschig" fallen, schauen Sie auch mal in die Maße der Maßskizze. Wenn Sie am Anfang weniger M anschlagen, laufen Sie Gefahr, dass die Jacke hinterher zu eng wird. Sie können zum Test und Vergleich auch ein Probestück mit einigen Mustersätzen stricken, um zu sehen, wie dieses sich verhält.
25.03.2015 - 11:41Maria wrote:
Buongiorno. Avrei due domande: 1. Nella spiegazione del Davanti e Dietro, viene indicato: "Lavorare le m rov a dir sul rovescio del lavoro e a rov sul diritto del lavoro." A quali maglie vi riferite? A quelle tra le ripetizioni del diagramma? Cioè bisogna fare la maglia rasata a rovescio? 2. Le maglie gettate nella composizione del diagramma A.2 devono essere prese ritorte nel ferro successivo o no? Grazie e a presto.
23.03.2015 - 08:16DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Maria. Per la prima domanda: si fa riferimento alle m tra i diagrammi, che vanno lavorate a maglia rasata rovescia. Per la seconda domanda: le m gettate nel diagramma, al ferro successivo, vanno lavorate a rovescio, in modo da formare i buchi. Buon lavoro!
23.03.2015 - 08:34Carina wrote:
Hej! Helt underbar kofta jag bara måste sticka MEN undrar om A 1 och A 2-mönstren stickas med varv 1 från avigsidan. Måste ju bli så eftersom jag börjar med 4 räta varv.
09.03.2015 - 21:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Diag visar alla v i mönstret sett från rätsidan. (det första av de 4 rätstickade varven tidigare är alltså också från rätsidan) Lycka till!
13.05.2015 - 14:56Carina wrote:
Är varv 1 i mönsterstickningen stickad från avigsidan o varv 2 från rätsidan? Alltså omvänt mot vad som är vanligt. Måste ju bli så om man börjar med 4 räta varv. Då blir ju första varvet från avigsidan.
09.03.2015 - 21:19DROPS Design answered:
Hej Diag visar alla v i mönstret sett från rätsidan. (det första av de 4 rätstickade varven tidigare är alltså också från rätsidan) Lycka till!
13.05.2015 - 14:57Cornelia Ramstig wrote:
Hej ! Jag tycker det ser ut som slätstickning mellan hålmönster men så är det inte på stickbeskrivningen. Är det slätstickning ? MVH Cornelia
05.03.2015 - 13:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Cornelia. Det er "omvendt" slätstickning. Du strikker vr paa retten mellem hulmönstret: Am stickas räta från avigsidan och aviga från rätsidan.
05.03.2015 - 13:57Monika Opočenská wrote:
Překrásný vzor, určitě ho zkusím. Jen času je málo :-) Obdivuji překladatelky, každý den přibývá několik překladů. Monika
05.03.2015 - 09:19DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Moniko, díky za milé komentáře! Tento model patří i k mým favoritům - jeho realizaci však prozatím odkládám na "jednou", neboť celý český "tým" tvoří jeden člověk a překlady mají samozřejmě absolutní přednost :-) Přeji Vám příjemné zaplétání a pochlubte se výsledkem! Hana
05.03.2015 - 18:36
Love Is In The Air Cardigan |
||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||
Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 160-2 |
||||||||||
GARTER ST (worked in the round): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, P 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm. SIZE M/L: 15, 23, 31, 39, 48 and 57 cm. SIZE XL: 16, 24, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm. SIZE XXL: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm. SIZE XXXL: 17, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 311-351-411-439-495 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, P 10-9-9-8-8, * A.1 (= 9 sts), P 7-6-6-5-5 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, insert 1 marker (= right front piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= back piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 10-9-9-8-8, 6 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work P sts K from WS and P from RS. Move the markers upwards when working. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 277-309-361-381-429 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 7 sts) over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm, dec as follows: Work 6 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, * A.2, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, 6 band sts in garter st = 257-285-333-349-393 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue with P and pattern as before until piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm. Then dec as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, * A.2, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, 6 band sts in garter st = 237-261-305-317-357 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Continue dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 3-4-4-5-5 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 157-189-221-253-285 sts. Work next row as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 4, * A.2, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 4, 6 band sts in garter st. When piece measures 30 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS. Repeat inc every 1½-2-2½-3½-3½ cm 9-7-6-5-5 more times = 197-221-249-277-309 sts. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52 cm, divide the piece as follows: Slip the first and last 52-58-65-72-80 sts on a stitch holder for front piece, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 93-105-119-133-149 sts (= back piece). BACK PIECE: = 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, then 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-4-4-6-7 times and 1 st 1-3-5-8-9 times = 77-77-79-79-83 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73 cm, slip the middle 31-33-35-37-39 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 23-22-22-21-22 sts. On next row from neck, K the first 2 sts tog = 22-21-21-20-21 sts. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = 52-58-65-72-80 sts. Now cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 44-44-45-45-47 sts. Continue to work in garter st, A.2 and P sts as before. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm, dec for neck as follows: On next row from RS slip the 14-15-16-17-18 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), then cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 22-21-21-20-21 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work as right but reversed. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-105-105-112-112 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work as follows: * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 (= 9 sts) *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 84-91-91-96-96 sts on needle. Work A.2 over A.1 and P as before. When piece measures 3 cm, dec as follows: * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 78-84-84-88-88 sts. When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm, dec as follows: * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 72-77-77-80-80 sts. Repeat dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 2½-3-3-4-4 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 48-56-56-64-64 sts. Work next round as follows: * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). Piece now measures approx. 16 cm. When piece measures 18 cm, inc on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 2 sts inc), repeat inc every 2½-3-2-2-1½ cm 11-9-12-11-14 more times = 72-76-82-88-94 sts. P the inc sts. Work A.2 and P until piece measures 47-46-44-43-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1-4-7-10-14 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. NOTE: Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. NECK EDGE: Pick up 100-120 sts (incl sts on stitch holder for neck) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. |
||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||
|
||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |