DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Love Is In The Air Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 160-2
DROPS design: Pattern no r-673
Yarn group B
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Size: S – M/L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
650-700-750-850-900 g colour no 06, light pink

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-750 g colour no 11, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, P 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm.
SIZE M/L: 15, 23, 31, 39, 48 and 57 cm.
SIZE XL: 16, 24, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm.
SIZE XXL: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 17, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 311-351-411-439-495 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, P 10-9-9-8-8, * A.1 (= 9 sts), P 7-6-6-5-5 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, insert 1 marker (= right front piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= back piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 10-9-9-8-8, 6 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work P sts K from WS and P from RS. Move the markers upwards when working. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 277-309-361-381-429 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 7 sts) over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm, dec as follows:
Work 6 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, * A.2, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, 6 band sts in garter st = 257-285-333-349-393 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue with P and pattern as before until piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm.
Then dec as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, * A.2, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, 6 band sts in garter st = 237-261-305-317-357 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Continue dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 3-4-4-5-5 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 157-189-221-253-285 sts. Work next row as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 4, * A.2, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 4, 6 band sts in garter st. When piece measures 30 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS. Repeat inc every 1½-2-2½-3½-3½ cm 9-7-6-5-5 more times = 197-221-249-277-309 sts.
When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52 cm, divide the piece as follows: Slip the first and last 52-58-65-72-80 sts on a stitch holder for front piece, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 93-105-119-133-149 sts (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
= 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, then 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-4-4-6-7 times and 1 st 1-3-5-8-9 times = 77-77-79-79-83 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73 cm, slip the middle 31-33-35-37-39 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 23-22-22-21-22 sts. On next row from neck, K the first 2 sts tog = 22-21-21-20-21 sts. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-58-65-72-80 sts. Now cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 44-44-45-45-47 sts. Continue to work in garter st, A.2 and P sts as before. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm, dec for neck as follows: On next row from RS slip the 14-15-16-17-18 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), then cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 22-21-21-20-21 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-105-105-112-112 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work as follows: * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 (= 9 sts) *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 84-91-91-96-96 sts on needle. Work A.2 over A.1 and P as before. When piece measures 3 cm, dec as follows: * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 78-84-84-88-88 sts. When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm, dec as follows: * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 72-77-77-80-80 sts. Repeat dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 2½-3-3-4-4 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 48-56-56-64-64 sts. Work next round as follows: * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). Piece now measures approx. 16 cm. When piece measures 18 cm, inc on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 2 sts inc), repeat inc every 2½-3-2-2-1½ cm 11-9-12-11-14 more times = 72-76-82-88-94 sts. P the inc sts. Work A.2 and P until piece measures 47-46-44-43-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1-4-7-10-14 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. NOTE: Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up 100-120 sts (incl sts on stitch holder for neck) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Ingela Gröning wrote:

Garnet räcker inte fattas till en hel ärm. Skall man verkligen lägga upp så många maskor till ärmen. ser inte så ut på mönstret. själva koftan är bra i storlek. nu fattas garn till andra ärmen och färgbadet finns ej kvar där jag köpt garnet. /Ingela

17.04.2015 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingela. Ja, du starter med 96-105-105-112-112 m - og i og med du strikker A.1 tager du ind. Herefter tager du ogsaa ind iflg mönstret (til 48-56-56-64-64 m) og efter 18 cm tager du ud igen. Men vi skal notere du har manglet garn til denne (hvis du kunne melde hvilken str du laver, ville det vaere bra) Tak.

22.04.2015 - 15:48

country flag Luisa wrote:

E per chi non sa utilizzare i ferri circolari?

16.04.2015 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Luisa. Il capo può essere lavorato anche in parti separate. Le m prima del primo segno sono il davanti destro; le m tra i due segni, sono il dietro; le m dopo il secondo segno, sono il dav sinistro. Aggiunga 1 m vivagno per le cuciture. Per la taglia S avrà: dav destro: 6 m bordo, 10 m rov, * A.1 (= 9m), 7 m rov * ripetuto altre 3 volte (= 80 m + 1 m vivagno); per il dietro 151 m + 2 m vivagno; per il dav sinistro 80 m + 1 m vivagno. Se alcuni passaggi non le sono chiari può scrivere qui o sul nostro forum. Buon lavoro!

16.04.2015 - 16:42

country flag Anne Hermann wrote:

Vil gerne strikke den fine trøje, men undrer mig over omkredsen. Der skal slås 351 m på til str. m/l og 21 m skal være 10cm. det betyder at trøjen bliver 167 cm i omkreds, kan det være rigtigt? Vh Anne

05.04.2015 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne. Jo, det stemmer. Den skal vaere vid for neden. Du starter med at strikke A.1 som gör at du efter mönstret har 309 m = strikkefastheden er 21 m per 10 cm, men mönstret vil traekke lidt sammen, saa kommer du ud paa ca 70 cm fladt maalt.

23.04.2015 - 14:07

country flag Jelina Deuter wrote:

Vielen Dank für den schnellen Kommentar! Habe die Anleitung ganz gelesen und auch ein Stück gestrickt, aber nach A1 und 1xA2 schon mehr als 50g Wolle verbraucht und kann das Teil zwei Mal um mich wickeln. Selbst mit Abnahmen und Zusammziehen kommt das nicht hin..

25.03.2015 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Die Maschenzahlen passen aber mit den Maßen zusammen, wenn man die Maschenprobe einhält, unter Berücksichtigung dessen, dass sich das Teil noch leicht zusammenzieht durch das Muster. A.1 besteht ja nur aus 2 R, danach haben Sie ja schon viel weniger M auf der Nadel und das passt, wie gesagt, zu den cm-Angaben der Maßskizze. Haben Sie die Maschenprobe denn richtig gemessen? Am besten strickt man ein Stück von ca 15 x 15 cm (also etwa die anderthalbfache Anzahl M anschlagen wie für die M-Probe angegeben) und misst dann 10 x 10 cm in der Mitte ab.

26.03.2015 - 09:57

country flag Jelina Deuter wrote:

Hallo! Ich habe angefangen die Jacke mit Muskat-Garn zu stricken, die Maschenprobe hat gepasst. Aber mit 351 angeschlagenen Maschen ist das Rumpfteil riesig geworden, über 150cm lang. Nach meiner Berechnung bräuchte ich ca 180 Maschen für das Rumpfteil. Aber wie soll ich dann den Rest aufteilen? Ich würde mich wirklich sehr über schnelle Hilfe freuen, zumal das Garn jetzt hier herumliegt und auf seinen Einsatz wartet. Vielen Dank! Jelina Deuter

24.03.2015 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Sie dürfen nicht vergessen, dass sich das Muster einerseits etwas zusammenzieht (das können Sie in der Detailaufnahme des Musters sehen) und Sie andererseits Abnahmen arbeiten. Lesen Sie am besten die Anleitung vor dem Stricken einmal durch, dann sehen Sie, dass sich im Laufe des Strickens Abnahmen ergeben. An den Rändern soll die Jacke ja auch etwas "rüschig" fallen, schauen Sie auch mal in die Maße der Maßskizze. Wenn Sie am Anfang weniger M anschlagen, laufen Sie Gefahr, dass die Jacke hinterher zu eng wird. Sie können zum Test und Vergleich auch ein Probestück mit einigen Mustersätzen stricken, um zu sehen, wie dieses sich verhält.

25.03.2015 - 11:41

country flag Maria wrote:

Buongiorno. Avrei due domande: 1. Nella spiegazione del Davanti e Dietro, viene indicato: "Lavorare le m rov a dir sul rovescio del lavoro e a rov sul diritto del lavoro." A quali maglie vi riferite? A quelle tra le ripetizioni del diagramma? Cioè bisogna fare la maglia rasata a rovescio? 2. Le maglie gettate nella composizione del diagramma A.2 devono essere prese ritorte nel ferro successivo o no? Grazie e a presto.

23.03.2015 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria. Per la prima domanda: si fa riferimento alle m tra i diagrammi, che vanno lavorate a maglia rasata rovescia. Per la seconda domanda: le m gettate nel diagramma, al ferro successivo, vanno lavorate a rovescio, in modo da formare i buchi. Buon lavoro!

23.03.2015 - 08:34

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej! Helt underbar kofta jag bara måste sticka MEN undrar om A 1 och A 2-mönstren stickas med varv 1 från avigsidan. Måste ju bli så eftersom jag börjar med 4 räta varv.

09.03.2015 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Diag visar alla v i mönstret sett från rätsidan. (det första av de 4 rätstickade varven tidigare är alltså också från rätsidan) Lycka till!

13.05.2015 - 14:56

country flag Carina wrote:

Är varv 1 i mönsterstickningen stickad från avigsidan o varv 2 från rätsidan? Alltså omvänt mot vad som är vanligt. Måste ju bli så om man börjar med 4 räta varv. Då blir ju första varvet från avigsidan.

09.03.2015 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Diag visar alla v i mönstret sett från rätsidan. (det första av de 4 rätstickade varven tidigare är alltså också från rätsidan) Lycka till!

13.05.2015 - 14:57

country flag Cornelia Ramstig wrote:

Hej ! Jag tycker det ser ut som slätstickning mellan hålmönster men så är det inte på stickbeskrivningen. Är det slätstickning ? MVH Cornelia

05.03.2015 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Cornelia. Det er "omvendt" slätstickning. Du strikker vr paa retten mellem hulmönstret: Am stickas räta från avigsidan och aviga från rätsidan.

05.03.2015 - 13:57

country flag Monika Opočenská wrote:

Překrásný vzor, určitě ho zkusím. Jen času je málo :-) Obdivuji překladatelky, každý den přibývá několik překladů. Monika

05.03.2015 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Moniko, díky za milé komentáře! Tento model patří i k mým favoritům - jeho realizaci však prozatím odkládám na "jednou", neboť celý český "tým" tvoří jeden člověk a překlady mají samozřejmě absolutní přednost :-) Přeji Vám příjemné zaplétání a pochlubte se výsledkem! Hana

05.03.2015 - 18:36