DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 160-25
DROPS design: Pattern no e-225
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
200-250-250-300 g color no 17, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 16" and 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BOLERO:
Work first a square in the round, then work out to each sleeve back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Cast on 12 sts with Safran and distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 (= 3 sts on each needle). Then insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker between 3rd and 4th st, 2nd marker between 6th and 7th st, 3rd marker between 9th and 10th st and 4th marker between 12th and 1st st. Then work according to A.1 – choose diagram for correct size (= 4 times). Sts with markers are corner sts, let the markers follow when working outwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically (see arrow for your size) each side will be worked seperatly = 63-67-71-75 sts along each side and 252-268-284-300 sts in total on needle. Then work only over the first 63-67-71-75 sts (= one side, sts between 4th and 1st marker), slip the other sides on stitch holders, work over sts between 2nd and 3rd marker later.
Now work piece back and forth. On next row from RS work as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, K 0-2-4-6, A.2 (= 61 sts), K 0-2-4-6, work 2 sts in last st on row = 65-69-73-77 sts. Then work as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 1-3-5-7 sts in stockinette st, A.2, 1-3-5-7 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements.

SIZE L/XL-XXL-XXXL:
On next row from RS inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 1 edge st– READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc on every row from RS 2-4-8 more times = 75-83-95 sts. Work inc sts in stockinette st.

ALL SIZES:
= 65-75-83-95 sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 27-32-36-42 sts in stockinette st, A.3 (= 9 sts), 27-32-36-42 sts in stockinette st, 1 edge st in garter st. Work A.3 2 times in total vertically. Work 0-6-0-4 rows in stockinette st. On next row from RS, dec 3-1-1-3 sts evenly = 62-74-82-92 sts. P 1 row from WS. Work A.4 – see diagram for correct size (= 12-12-10-10 sts) 5-6-8-9 times in width. Work A.4 2-2-3-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.5 (= 6 sts) 10-12-13-15 times, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 0-0-2-0 sts evenly = 62-74-80-92 sts. Bind off when A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically.

Work sts between 2nd and 3rd marker the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the side inside 1 edge st, 27 cm / 10½'' up from bottom of sleeve and up. Do same in the other side.

EDGE:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Beg at one sleeve seam and work with circular needle 3.5 mm with Safran from RS as follows: Pick up 20-25-28-30 sts inside 1 edge st in garter st, K the 63-67-71-75 sts from stitch holder, pick up 40-50-56-60 sts inside 1 edge st, K the 63-67-71-75 sts from stitch holder, pick up 20-25-28-30 sts = 206-234-254-270 sts. P 1 round - AT THE SAME TIME insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: P 40-47-52-56, insert 1st marker, P 23, insert 2nd marker, P 80-94-104-112, insert 3rd marker, P 23, insert 4th marker, work the rest of round (= P 40-47-52-56). When inc sts, do not inc sts between 1st and 2nd marker (marks the neck) and between 3rd and 4th marker (marks mid back on the back). K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 14-15-18-22 sts evenly = 220-249-272-292 sts. P 1 round. Then work A.6 (= 6 sts) AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 14-15-16-20 sts evenly = 234-264-288-312 sts. A.6 is now worked 39-44-48-52 times in width. Repeat A.6 1 time vertically AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 24-30-36-36 sts evenly = 258-294-324-348 sts. A.6 is now worked 43-49-54-58 times in the round. When A.6 is done, loosely bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (61)

country flag Kastner, Edeltraut wrote:

Hallo, ich komme wieder Mal nicht weiter. Die je 30 Maschen aufnehmen ist mir klar, da wo der Ärmel ist, aber wo soll ich die zusätzlichen 60 Maschen aufnehmen? Danke

22.01.2018 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kastner, diese 30 M werden an den Ärmel aufgefassen - die Naht der Ärmel ist nur 27 cm, diese Maschen werden an den 13 cm beideseitig der Armel aufgefassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.01.2018 - 10:43

country flag Eva-maria Janssen wrote:

Vielen Dank, für die Hilfe

14.09.2017 - 15:20

country flag Eva-maria Janssen wrote:

Erstmal lieben Dank für die Antwort, doch ich habe die Frage falsch formuliert. Meine Frage, Stricke ich A 2 mit den 75 Maschen vom 1. Markierer oder 150 Maschen ,vom 1.und 4. Markierer

13.09.2017 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Janssen, nach A.1 stricken Sie nur über die ersten 75 M (= zwischen 4. und 1. Markierer), bei der 1. Reihe in A.2 nehmen Sie 2 M zu = 77 M, dann nehmen Sie (in die letzte Größe) zu, bis Sie 95 M haben usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.09.2017 - 08:19

country flag Eva-maria Janssen wrote:

Ich brauche bei dem Bolero,, Kamelia,, Hilfe. Und zwar fange ich jetzt mit dem Muster A 2 an. Nun meine Frage: Muß ich das Muster A2 , 4 mal stricken, oder zwei mal?

12.09.2017 - 21:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Janssen, A.2 wird nur 1 mal in der Höhe gestrickt, siehe unter "ALLE GR.". Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.09.2017 - 08:38

country flag Keppler wrote:

Hallo! Jetzt weiß ich, was gemeint ist. Wenn man den Ärmel nicht(!) ganz zunäht, sondern nur die Schräge, bleibt eine Kante, aus der man Maschen aufnehmen kann! Vielleicht sollte man den weniger Geübten eine Chance geben, das auch zu verstehen!

24.09.2016 - 15:49

country flag Keppler wrote:

Hallo! Danke für das Video! Aber da ist keine Kante!!

22.09.2016 - 14:29

country flag Keppler wrote:

Hallo! Ich stricke jetzt seit über 30 Jahren auch anspruchsvolle Sachen aber aus der Anleitung : "20 Maschen innerhalb einer Randmasche auffassen..." Werde ich nicht schlau. Ich stricke gerade den Bolero " Kamelia". Könnten Sie mir wohl helfen?

19.09.2016 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keppler, im Video zeigen wir, wie man die Maschen an einer Seitenkante innherhalb 1 Randmasche auffassen, so müssen Sie an der Seitenkante der Ärmel machen.

19.09.2016 - 13:14

country flag Christina Ulltin wrote:

Tack för svar! Nu förstår jag!

28.05.2016 - 11:15

country flag Christina Ulltin wrote:

Kan man sticka denna i delight?

23.05.2016 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Ja det kan du göra (de tillhör samma garngrupp). Se bara till att få rätt stickfasthet samt att beräkna riktig garnmängd när du byter garn. Lycka till!

24.05.2016 - 09:36

country flag Christina Ulltin wrote:

På sidan 2 står det att det ska vara 69 maskor och sedan ökas 4 ggr i var sida ( storlek L/XL) Jag får det till 77 maskor men det står 83. Ska jag öka 4 ggr eller öka tills det blir 83? Har gjort den mindre storleken och den är jättefin!

23.05.2016 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. I storlek L/XL har du 69 m, sedan ökar du 1 m i varje sida en gång, detta upprepas 2 gånger till, dvs totalt 6 m ökade. 69+6=75 m, vilket är det antal m du ska ha. (Tänk på att strl L/XL i detta stycke är den första siffran.) Lycka till!

24.05.2016 - 09:34