DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Escape

Crochet DROPS skirt with trebles, lace pattern, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 162-18
DROPS design: Pattern no e-232
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour no 18, off white

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size hook to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm, or A.1 = 5 cm in width, A.2 = 10 cm in width and A.3 = approx. 7 cm in width.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Loop (white) NO 523: 4 pieces in all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr from beg of row/round with 3 ch. Finish row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from previous row (when piece is worked back and forth) and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (when piece is worked in the round).
DO NOT replace first dc at beg of round but work 1 ch before dc at beg of round. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in same tr.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook = 1 st dec.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
----------------------------------------------------------

SKIRT:
Work back and forth, top down to after vent in the side, then work in the round.
Work 186-209-232-258-279-305 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran. Work first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3-5-7-5-5-3 ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 2-4-6-4-4-2 tr = 158-178-198-220-238-260 tr. Then work back and forth with 1 tr in every tr - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When 5 rows have been worked vertically, insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: First marker after 14-14-16-20-21-22 tr, then there should be 26-30-33-36-39-43 tr between every marker, there will be 14-14-17-20-22-23 tr after last marker at the end of row. On next row inc 1 tr before all markers – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row 6-6-7-8-9-10 more times - NOTE: Inc alternately before and after markers = 200-220-246-274-298-326 tr. AT THE SAME TIME when 12 rows in total have been worked vertically, end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, beg round in the side – READ CROCHET INFO! When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-26 cm, inc 28-32-30-26-38-22 st evenly on next round = 228-252-276-300-336-348 sts. Now work pattern as follows: Work from 1st round in A.1 (= 12 tr) 19-21-23-25-28-29 times in width. When A.X has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.X 1 more time before continuing with next round in diagram. Then work 1-2-2-1-2-3 rounds with 1 tr in every tr, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 36-36-36-36-24-36 sts evenly = 264-288-312-336-360-384 tr. Now work from 1st round in A.2 (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 repetitions), AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12 tr evenly in all sizes = 276-300-324-348-372-396 tr. Continue with A.1 (= 23-25-27-29-31-33 repetitions) 1 time vertically, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12-20-12-20-12-20 tr evenly = 288-320-336-368-384-416 tr. Now work A.3 (= 18-20-21-23-24-26 repetitions). When A.3 has been worked vertically, repeat A.Z 1-1-1-2-2-2 more times vertically. Now work as follows: 1 ch (= 1 dc), ** work * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 4 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr **, repeat from **-** the entire round, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 dc in first tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr, * work 2 dc in each of the next 2 tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 2 dc in last tr at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 dc in every dc and 3 dc in every ch-space.

BUTTON BAND:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with dc back and forth (on 1st row work 2 dc in every tr = 24 dc), cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button band.

EDGE:
Work an edge at top of waist on skirt as follows from RS: Fasten the strand with 1 sl st at the edge of button folding edge, 1 ch, * 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* along the entire edge of waist. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = tr in/around st
symbols = tr around ch-space
symbols = ch
symbols = dc in/around st
symbols = dc in ch-space
symbols = work 2 tr in same st as follows: 1 tr, but wait with last pull through (there are now 2 loops on hook), work 1 tr in same st. Pull last loop through all 3 loops on hook.
symbols = triple tr
symbols = 8 ch
symbols = Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = beg here = 1st round
symbols = round is explained in pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Summer Escape

@lindaslantliga, Finland

162-18 Summer Escape

Laurent, France

Summer Escape

Lisa, Greece

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 162-18

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Wil Van Balen wrote:

Zou ik dit patroon ook met Dropshot Parijs kunnen maken? En ik ben klein van stuk moet ik dan het bovenste gedeelte korter maken?

06.03.2018 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Wil, DROPS paris is dikker garen, en dus niet zo geschikt omdat de rok dan te zwaar wordt. Je kunt daarom het beste garen uit garengroep A kiezen. Om hem korter te maken kun je inderdaad een klein beetje van het bovengedeelte afhalen, maar je kunt bijvoorbeeld ook 1 herhaling van A.1 en of A.3 minder doen.

07.03.2018 - 20:22

country flag Sara wrote:

Me gusta mucho, muy bonita, es diferente a lo diario y nunca pasa de moda.

07.02.2018 - 03:26

country flag Cecilia Andersson wrote:

När det står att man ska öka två maskor före och efter markering ska man efter ökning virka ett varv utan ökning eller ska man öka.

08.08.2017 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Du ska öka på vartannat varv, så då virkar du alltid ett varv utan ökningar innan du ökar nästa gång.

08.08.2017 - 13:48

country flag Mona wrote:

Hallo...mein Rock ist fertig😆 juhuu.. Habt ihr vielleicht ein anderes Abschluss Muster für den Rock? Laut Anleitung soll man ja nach dem Muster A3 1lm..4lm.1fm um den Nächsten Luftmaschenbogen usw. Das finde ich irgendwie nicht optimal ich muss mit 4 Lm 7stb überspringen und dann wieder 4lm die 4stb. Dadurch zieht sich der Rock am unteren Saum sehr unschön zusammen. Oder verstehe ich die Anleitung wiedermal falsch😆? Danke für eure schnelle hilfe

22.07.2017 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mona, am Ende häkeln Sie so: 1 Lm (= 1 feste M), ** * 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen *, von *-* noch weitere 2 x wdh [= 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen, 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen, 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen], dann 4 Lm, 3 Stb überspringen, 1 fM in das nächste Stb **, von **-** bis Rd-Ende wdh, dh so wird es gehäkelt: *(4 Lm, 1 fM um den nächsten Lm-Bogen) x 3, dann 4 Lm, 3 Stb überspringen, 1 fM in das nächste Stb häkeln*, und von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

24.07.2017 - 09:35

country flag Uschi wrote:

Ich glaube ich habe einen fehler gefunden in der Anleitung. für größe M.... nach der ersten zunahme reihe sollen es 14 Maschen nach dem letzten Makierer sein, laut Anleitung. ich habe aber nur 13 maschen. und die abstände zwischen den Makierern stimmen auch. Also liegt wohl der Fehler in der Anteitung. Bin schon verzweifelt weil ich schon dachte ich wäre zu dumm um zählen :)

08.07.2017 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Uschi, Sie haben 178 Stb, dann werden die Markierer so eingesetzt: 14 M, dann 5 x 30 M = 178 - 14 - 150 = 14 M bleiben nach den letzten Markierer. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

10.07.2017 - 10:35

country flag Mona wrote:

Hallo. Zwischen den Zunahmen immer eine reihe/runde ohne Zunahmen drüber Häkeln? Zb. 1. Rd vor dem Makierer Zunehmen .... 2. Rd. Ohne Zunahme häkeln...3. Rd nach dem Makierer zunehme n usw. Danke fürs Antworten

03.07.2017 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mona, der Rock wird in Hin- und Rück-Reihen gehäkelt, bei den 6 Zunahmen vor/nach den Markierern, sollen Sie in jeder 2. Reihe zunehmen, so 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen vor jedem Markierer, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahme, 1 Reihe nach jedem Markierer, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahme und diese 4 Reihe wiederholen (siehe Größe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.07.2017 - 09:03

country flag Mona wrote:

Hallo....ich habe ein kleines Verständnis problem...nach der 5.reihe müssen 6 Makierer gesetzt werden, müssen sie wärend die 6. Reihe gehäkelt wird gesetzt werden oder ohne häkeln Makierer setzten? ... ab der Ersten Zunahme Reihe gleich je zwei Zunahme machen? ( vor und nach dem Makierer?) Oder erst ab der 2.Zunahme Reihe 2 Zunahmen?

01.07.2017 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mona, diese Riehe mit Markierern wird nicht gehäkelt, dann wird es so zugenommen: bei der 1. Zunahmereihe vor jedem Markierer zunehmen, bei der 2. Zunahmenreihe nach jedem Markierer zunehmen, und so wiederholen, dh bei der nächsten Zunahmenreihe vor jedem Markierer, dann bei der nächsten Zunahmenreihe nach jedem Markierer zunehmen, usw. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.07.2017 - 09:18

country flag Maria wrote:

Hei.. Har et spørsmål angående mønsteret A2 omgang nr.9... Skal det hekles 4 luftmasker eller 8 luftmasker når man kommer på slutten? Var litt vanskelig å forstå mønsteret på den omgangen

22.05.2017 - 08:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. I 9. omgang hekles det 4 lm på begynnelsen av rapporten og 4 lm på slutten av rapproten (= 8 lm), men du avslutter omgangen med 4 lm (se diagrammet).God fornøyelse videre på dette flotte skjørtet.

22.05.2017 - 11:45

country flag REBEYROL Monique wrote:

Je suis au 12 ième range et je dois arrêter la fente et continuer en rond, mais voilà, je suis bloquée à l'info crochet. Qui peut m'expliquer ? y a t-il une vidéo pour mieux comprendre ce passage ? MERCI de bien vouloir m'aider

24.03.2017 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rebeyrol, L'info crochet explique seulement comment procéder au début de rang/tour. Quand vous crochetez en rond, terminez le tour par 1 mc dans la 3ème ml du début du tour (les 3 ml qui remplacent la 1ère bride), cf aussi vidéo ci-dessous. Bon crochet!

27.03.2017 - 08:28

country flag Mariam Khan wrote:

Hei. I A3 så er det grupper med 4 staver oppover i midten. Jeg syns diagrammet viser veldig dårlig hvordan det skal bli gjort. Skal stavene bli heklet i maskene fra forrige rundes staver eller skal de hekles i en gruppe i luftmaske buen?

29.09.2016 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mariam. De förste 4 staver + 2 lm + 4 staver (rk 3) haekles om lm fra forrige omg. Naeste gruppe staver (rk 4) haekles om de 2 lm fra forrige omg. I rk 5 ligesaa. I rk 6 haekles först de 4 staver överst i de 3 lm, saa 4 lm og 1 fm nederst i de 3 lm, 3 lm, 1 fm nederst om de naeste 3 lm, 4 lm og 4 staver överst i de 3 lm. Osv.

04.10.2016 - 16:41