DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Riviera Maya

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern and fringes in ”Cotton Light” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 159-1
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-037
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 132-140-148 cm / 52''-55"-58"
Full length: 60-64-68 cm / 23½"-25 1/4"-26 3/4"

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
550-600-650 g color no 02, white

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
500-550-600 g colour no 01, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for edge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

EDGE STS:
Work the outermost 4 sts in each side in garter st but on every 6th row (always from RS) work holes as follows:
At beg of row: K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 tog, 1 YO.
At end of row: 1 YO, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 tog.
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PONCHO:
Worked in 2 parts that are sewn tog on the shoulders.

FRONT PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 139-147-155 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Light or "Belle". Work first row as follows from RS: 4 EDGE STS - see explanation above, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 5 sts remain on row, work 1st st in A.1 and finish with 4 EDGE STS. Continue the pattern like this - NOTE: On 7th row in A.1 K last st before edge sts. When A.1 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Insert 1 marker after the first 47-51-55 sts on needle and 1 marker after the next 45 sts (= 47-51-55 sts after last marker at the end of row).

ALL SIZES: Work next row as follows from RS: 4 edge sts as before, work A.2 over the next 12-16-20 sts, work A.4 (= 31 sts), 1st marker, A.6A (= 4 sts), work pattern according to diagram A.6B until 5 sts remain before 2nd marker, A.6C (= 5 sts), A.5 (= 31 sts), work A.3 over the next 12-16-20 sts and finish with 4 edge sts as before. Continue pattern like this. There will be lanes with lace pattern upwards on each side of markers and work borders with lace pattern between the 2 markers. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. Size S/M and L/XL: Continue to ALL SIZES.

Size XXL/XXXL: When A.6 has been worked one time vertically, work 3 ridges between markers (work the other sts as before), then work A.6 one more time between markers (continue the other sts as before).

ALL SIZES: When A.6 has been worked, work pattern according to diagram A.1 between the 2 markers mid front (continue the other sts as before) AT THE SAME TIME on next to last row in diagram (= RS) dec 4 sts evenly (= 41 sts between markers and 135-143-151 sts on row).
After A.1 work A.7 between the 2 markers as follows (continue the other sts as before): Work A.7A (= 5 sts), work A.7B until 6 sts remain before marker and finish with A.7C (= 6 sts).
When A.7 has been worked, work pattern according to diagram A.8 between the 2 markers (continue the other sts as before). AT THE SAME TIME on last row in diagram (= RS), inc 3 sts evenly (= 44 sts between markers and 138-146-154 sts in total on needle).
After A.8 work pattern according to diagram A.9 between the 2 markers. When entire A.9 has been worked (piece measures approx. 39-39-43 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-17"), there are 45 sts between markers. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 between markers (continue the other sts as before).
After A.1 work A.6 between markers as follows: A.6A (= 4 sts), work A.6B until 5 sts remain before marker and finish with A.6C (= 5 sts). SIZE S/M: Continue to ALL SIZES.

SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL: When A.6 has been worked one time vertically, work 3 ridges between markers (work the other sts as before), then work A.6 one more time between markers (continue the other sts as before).

ALL SIZES: After A.6 work 3 ridges between markers (work the other sts as before), then bind off the 45 sts between markers for neck and finish each part separately.
Continue pattern back and forth as before over the 47-51-55 sts on shoulder - NOTE: Continue the outermost 2 sts towards the neck in garter st. When 4 cm / 1½'' remain before piece measures 60-64-68 cm / 23½"-25 1/4"-26 3/4" (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Continue with pattern according to diagram A.1 before loosely binding off. Repeat in the other side.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. The poncho should be open in each side.

FRINGES:
Fasten fringes along the bottom edge of poncho both front and back. Fasten fringes in holes in A.1.
1 fringe = cut 6 lengths of 35 cm / 14'' each. Fold them double, pull the loops true the holes and pull the yarn ends true the loops. Fasten each fringe approx. 3 cm / 1'' apart. Then split the fringes in 2 and tie tog with next fringe. Continue like this with all fringes.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.04.2015
New diagram A.9 (top part of the diagram).

The close-up photo of the butterfly is incorrect. It will be replaced soon.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = Bobble: Work 5 sts in 1 st as follows: K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, work 4 rows in stocking st back and forth over the 5 sts, then dec as follows: Pass 2nd st on right needle over 1st st, then 3rd st over 1st st, then 4th st over 1st st and finally 5th st over 1st st = 1 st remains = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (116)

country flag Sabine wrote:

Nachdem A.6 zu Ende gestr. wurde, soll man in den 45 M zw. den Markieren A.1 stricken. Reihe 7 kommt in A.1 aber nicht hin, weil 1 M übrig bleibt (gerade Anz. M in A.1 gegen 45 M zw.den Markierern.....) - was tun??? Grüße von Sabine

08.05.2015 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Sie gehen genau wie am Anfang vor: Sie stricken am Ende, d.h. die letzte M vor dem Markierer - die "überzählige 45. M - wie die 1. M von A.1 und in der 7. R stricken Sie diese Masche einfach rechts.

09.05.2015 - 14:17

country flag Christin wrote:

Hier meine zweite Frage: Und dann ist hier die 6. Rd, aber auch die 7. Rd als Hinrunde gekennzeichnet. Wenn ich jedoch die 6. Rd stricke, dann bin ich in der Rückrd und stricke links. Liebe Grüße Christin

27.04.2015 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Die beiden Reihen sind nicht als Hin-R gekennzeichnet, in allen Diagrammen folgen stets Hin- und Rück-R aufeinander. Es bedeutet, dass Sie in der 6. R (= Rück-R) linke M stricken müssen, damit sie auf der Vorderseite, die das Diagramm zeigt, rechts erscheinen. Das leere Kästchen steht für "1 M re in Hin-R, 1 M li in Rück-R" - da Sie sich bei der 6. R in einer Rück-R befinden, müssen diese M li gestrickt werden, dann erscheinen sie auf der Vorderseite als rechte M.

28.04.2015 - 23:24

country flag Christin wrote:

Hallo, leider versteh ich nicht ganz, was das zu bedeuten hat: "Die Diagramme zeigen alle Hin-und Rückrunden, wie sie auf der Vorderseite erscheinen." Ich bin erst bei Diagramm A1 und verstehe es eigentlich so, dass ich rechts in der Hinrunde, links in der Rückrunde stricke... Ist das korrekt? Mich irritiert daher das Wort "Vorderseite".

27.04.2015 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Sie müssen in der 1. R = Hin-R re str, in der Rück-R aber auch re str, damit die M auf der Vorderseite als linke M erscheint. "Vorderseite" bedeutet, dass man ja eine Sichtseite hat - die Vorderseite. Die Maschen sind alle so dargestellt, wie Sie auf der Sichtseite aussehen. Wenn eine Masche auf der Vorderseite links aussieht (wie in der 2. R), muss sie in der Rück-R aber rechts gestrickt werden, die Masche ist trotzdem im Diagramm so dargestellt wie eine linke Masche, weil sie auf der Vorderseite eine linke Masche ist. Alternativ könnten die Strickschriften ja auch die Maschen immer so zeigen, wie sie gestrickt werden müssen, um das auszuschließen, steht der Satz mit der Vorderseite als Hinweis dort.

28.04.2015 - 23:16

country flag Rebeca wrote:

Perdona, acabo de ver el fallo, el diagrama que yo tengo impreso no es el mismo que el que esta en la página. Gracias

22.04.2015 - 18:41

country flag Rebeca wrote:

Hola! Tengo un problema con el diagrama A9 Se supone que al final del diagrama tiene que quedar 45 puntos, pero a mi me quedan 43. Creo que el problema está en la fila 49 del diagrama. Por mucho que lo miro no se como hacerlo para que salgan 45 puntos. Por favor, podríais revisar el diagrama? Así saldré de dudas si soy yo o es el diagrama. Gracias!!!

22.04.2015 - 18:38

country flag Angela wrote:

Buongiorno ho letto nella confezione che i laterali si lasciano aperti e si cuciono solo le spalle , vorrei cucirlo lateralmente , il mio lavoro e misura s quanto spazio devo lasciare per le braccia

19.04.2015 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Angela, il poncho è abbastanza largo per comprendere le braccia, per cui può semplicemente cucire i lati se lo vuole chiuso; se invece lo vuole più aderente deve pensare ad fare delle diminuzioni in vita e per lo scalfo manica. Ci riscriva se ha altri dubbi. Buon lavoro!!

19.04.2015 - 17:29

country flag Angela wrote:

Tra i due segni il diagramma A8 non mi combacia avendo 41 maglie ,mi aiuti buonasera

17.04.2015 - 22:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Angela, deve lavorare il diagramma A.8 sulle 41 m tra i due segni, per cui lavorerà il diagramma in modo completo e poi lavorerà ancora 9 m seguendo il diagramma. Si ricordi di aumentare 3 m sull'ultimo f del diagramma, in modo da avere alla fine 44 m su cui lavorare il diagramma A.9. Buon lavoro!!

18.04.2015 - 21:49

country flag Angela wrote:

Aiuto, dopo avere iniziato e arrivata alla fine di A7-A8 non mi combacia il numero delle maglia non combacia,sono andata nelle correzioni ma ancora non le avete caricato.Come faccio adesso

17.04.2015 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Angela, le correzioni di questo modello non riguardano i diagrammi A.7-A.8, non ci sono correzioni disponibili in merito. Ci può segnalare di preciso qual è il suo problema?Buon lavoro!

17.04.2015 - 19:40

country flag Nina Kvenild wrote:

Skal akkurat begynne å strikke denne modellen og ser det har vært en del feil i mønsteret......kan jeg føle meg trygg på at alt stemmer og er rettet opp nå ?

16.04.2015 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nina. Mönstret er rettet (se under RETTELSER) og online versionen er altid up-to-date.

17.04.2015 - 11:10

country flag Helle Tanyimboh wrote:

Opskriften er helt fin, men det anbefalede garn, som jeg bestilte gennem jeres forhandler, er alt for tykt og derfor for tungt til opskriften. Denne poncho skulle gerne være let og luftig .... det blev den så ikke. Det er for mit vedkommende spildt arbejde, da jeg ikke vil bruge den :-(

13.04.2015 - 08:27