DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Call It Spring Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket in stocking st with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Muskat”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 159-5
DROPS design: Pattern no r-679
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 40, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Flower (red), NO 617: 8 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41 and 47 cm.
SIZE M: 6, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 42 and 49 cm.
SIZE L: 6, 12, 19, 25, 32, 38, 45 and 51 cm.
SIZE XL: 6, 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47 and 53 cm.
SIZE XXL: 6, 13, 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 7, 15, 22, 29, 36, 43, 50 and 57 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.

Cast on 221-235-249-277-305-333 sts (incl 5 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! Continue to work PATTERN as follows (= from RS): 5 band sts in garter st, A.1 (= 14 sts on 1st row) 15-16-17-19-21-23 times in width, 1 st in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st = 191-203-215-239-263-287 sts. NOTE: Work 5 band sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, insert a marker in each side as follows: Insert a marker after 50-53-56-62-68-74 sts in from each side of piece for front piece. There are now 91-97-103-115-127-139 sts for back piece. Then continue in stocking st inside band sts in garter st. When piece measures 7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-4-2½-2-2½ cm 6-5-3-5-6-5 more times = 163-179-199-215-235-263 sts. When piece measures 24 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 2 markers - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 1-1-1½-2-2-2 cm 7-6-5-4-6-6 more times = 195-207-223-235-263-291 sts. When piece measures 35-37-38-40-41-43 cm, cast off sts for armhole as follows on next row: Work the first 47-50-54-56-63-70 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the next 85-91-99-103-117-131 sts, cast off the next 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work the remaining 47-50-54-56-63-70 sts = 179-191-207-215-243-271 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 62-64-65-71-74-76 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Muskat. K 3 rows back and forth (1st row = WS). Work next row as follows: Cast off the first 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, K the next 54-56-57-61-64-66 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts evenly (inc by working 2 sts in 1 st), cast off the last 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts, cut the yarn = 60-62-62-66-68-70 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 299-315-331-347-379-411 sts. Work 1 row from WS. Now work pattern as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, A.2 (18-19-20-21-23-25 times) until 6 sts remain, 1 st in stocking st, 5 band sts in garter st. NOTE: See arrow in diagram A.2 and A.3 for correct size. When A.2 has been worked vertically, continue with A.3 over A.2 and A.4 over A.3. There are now 119-125-131-137-149-161 sts on needle. Work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME dec 7-5-3-1-5-9 sts evenly on 1st row from RS = 112-120-128-136-144-152 sts. Work 1 more ridge and loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Beg here in the different sizes.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Christine Barholt wrote:

Måske er det bare mig, men hvorfor er ærmegabet så lille. Den sidder helt oppe under armen.\r\nOvervejer at pille op og lave hele bærestykket om .\r\nRigtig ærgerligt, da den ikke skal ende i skabet. Er ellers vildt glad for den .

02.05.2023 - 12:41

country flag Maria Del Rocio Paradá Mortales wrote:

Estoy atorada a nivel del inicio de las mangas. Estoy haciendo la talla mediana. Monto los 64 puntos en otras agujas, hago tres vueltas en derecho reduzco 4 puntos al i inicio y final y las íntegro para hacer el canesú?

02.04.2023 - 03:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hola María, sí, montas 64 puntos, trabajas 3 filas de derecho de ida y vuelta. En la siguiente fila, cierras 4 pts al inicio y al final de la fila y aumentas 6 pts. Dejar una cenefa en espera y trabajar la otra cenefa. Después, colocar ambas cenefas en la misma aguja que las partes del cuerpo, para trabajar el canesú todo junto.

02.04.2023 - 22:18

country flag Serap wrote:

Hallo. Ik ben bezig met dit patroon te breien in maat M. Als ik de markeerders plaat na 53 st en voor 53 aan de 2 kanten dan heb ik 91 st voor de achterpand en niet 97 st. Met vriendelijke groeten, Serap

09.02.2023 - 11:12

country flag Carina wrote:

Gracias, entonces doy por confirmado que sí me sirven las mangas que he tejido en redondo, no?

09.07.2022 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carina, sí, siempre que hagas el ajuste indicado para la sisa.

09.07.2022 - 19:37

country flag Carina wrote:

Hola. He hecho las mangas más largas(3/4), pero las he hecho en redondo por inercia, tengo que deshacerlas y volverlas a hacer de ida y vuelta o me sirven estás que he hecho en redondo? Es que ahora no sé cómo ponerlas y que no se retuerza el cable, así es que no sé si es que no se pueden hacer en redondo cuando se trata de una chaqueta. Gracias

09.07.2022 - 02:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carina, para unir la manga solo tienes que cerrar 8-10 pts en el centro bajo la manga antes de unir las mangas con el canesú. La forma de la manga se hace con el canesú.

09.07.2022 - 18:45

country flag Carina wrote:

Hola. Para hacer una elevación de cuello qué modelo puedo seguir? Gracias por su respuesta.

06.05.2022 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carina, por ejemplo, podrías trabajar el 195-19. Este es un jersey de abajo arriba, hecho con el mismo grupo de lanas y con una elevación con un número de puntos similar al de este modelo.

08.05.2022 - 19:01

country flag AINA HELEN VANGEN wrote:

Ok. Det hadde vært bedre om det var som det var før , så slipper man å bla seg gjennom hele oppskrifta for å finne str. Jeg brukte Drops design alltid før, det gjør jeg ikke lenger pga dette.

24.05.2021 - 10:16

country flag Aina wrote:

Hvorfor står det ikke hvor store størrelsene er lenger?? Hvor stort er large f.eks

21.05.2021 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aina. Längst ner på oppskriften har du en måleskiss där du ser alla mål i cm i alla storlekar. Mvh DROPS Design

24.05.2021 - 08:10

country flag Antonella wrote:

Salve, sto eseguendo questo modello. Vorrei sapere da dove devo misurare l'altezza del lavoro, se partendo dal bordo a maglia legaccio sui lati o dalle punte del motivo A1 che producono il bordino ondulato alla base del capo. Tra queste due misure infatti ci sono circa 2 cm di differenza in altezza. Grazie in anticipo.

10.09.2018 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Antonella. Deve misurare lungo il bordo a maglia legaccio sui lati. Buon lavoro!

10.09.2018 - 19:40

country flag Barbara Zimmerman wrote:

Loving the pattern! Are your measurements for when to do buttonholes, measured from the bottom of the buttonhole band or the bottom of the points created by the slip/K2/psso? The points are a bit longer. Thanks for your help!

09.08.2017 - 03:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, thank you for your note and question. The placement for the buttonholes are measured from the bottom of the button-band (from the cast on edge). I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

09.08.2017 - 10:36