DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% vlna
od 57.00 Kč /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 114.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS 157-33
DROPS design: model č. ee-508
Skupina přízí: E nebo C + C
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Velikost: S/M – L/XL

Materiál: DROPS ESKMO firmy Garnstudio
100 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č.53, světlá šedá

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.7 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 12 ok x 16 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č.6 – na lemy.

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Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% vlna
od 57.00 Kč /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 114.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Platí do 12.04.2024

Návod

VZOR:
1. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 oko hladce, 1 oko obrace*, *-* opakujeme.
2. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: hladce.
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LEVÁ RUKAVICE:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.6 nahodíme přízí Snow 26-30 ok a pleteme pružným vzorem 1/1 (tj. střídáme 1 oko hladce, 1 obrace) do výše 5 cm. Pak převedeme pleteninu na ponožkové jehlice č.7 a pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 2 oka = 24-28 ok. Pokračujeme takto: 12-14 ok lícovým žerzejem, 12-14 ok vzorem – viz výše. Ve výši 9-10 cm upleteme v následující kruhové řadě otvor pro palec, takto: upleteme 7-8 ok, následujících 5-6 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici, upleteme zbytek kruhové řady = 19-22 ok. V následující kruhové řadě nahodíme za odloženými oky 5-6 ok nových = 24-28 ok. Pokračujeme do výše asi 19,5-20,5 cm. Pak ujímáme, takto:
1. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *4-5 ok hladce, následující 2 oka spleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 20-24 ok (= 4 ujmutá oka).
2. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA (a poté každá další sudá kruhová řada): hladce.
3. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *3-4 oka hladce, následující 2 oka spleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 16-20 ok.
5. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *2-3 oka hladce, následující 2 oka spleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 12-16 ok.
7. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1-2 oka hladce, následující 2 oka spleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 8-12 ok.
Pouze pro velikost L/XL: 9. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 oko hladce, následující 2 oka spleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 8 ok.
Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.
Díl je vysoký asi 24-26 cm.

PALEC:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách.
Odložených 5-6 ok vrátíme z pomocné jehlice zpět na ponožkové jehlice č.7. Z okraje za palcem nabereme 5-6 nových ok = na ponožkových jehlicích máme celkem 10-12 ok. Pokračujeme lícovým žerzejem v kruhových řadách, až je palec vysoký asi 6-7 cm (měřeno od místa, kde jsme odložená oka vrátili zpět na jehlice). V následující kruhové řadě splétáme každá 2 oka hladce = 5-6 ok. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.

PRAVÁ RUKAVICE:
Pleteme stejně jako levou rukavici, jen zrcadlově převrácenou, tj. v kruhové řadě upleteme nejprve 12-14 ok vzorem, pak 12-14 ok lícovým žerzejem. Otvor pro palec pak vyplétáme takto: 12-14 ok vzorem (začínáme 1 okem obrace), následujících 5-6 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici (= palec), 7-8 ok lícovým žerzejem.
Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ).

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS 157-33

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Komentáře / Otázky (9)

country flag Donna wrote:

What size/measurement is a SM and what size/measurement is a LXL how do I know what size mitten I need to make?

23.09.2021 - 20:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, the mittents measures approx. 24-26 cm vertically. Happy Knitting!

23.09.2021 - 21:18

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, pardonnez mon ignorance car je suis novice en tricot. Je suis bloquée au niveau des mailles glissées pour le pouce. Je ne comprends pas l'instruction "MONTER 5-6 mailles au dessus des mailles en attente". Faut-il augmenter des mailles et à quel endroit ? De même pour le façonnage du pouce, qu'entendez-vous par "RELEVER 5-6 mailles autour de l'ouverture" ? Là encore, doit-on faire des augmentations et si oui, à quel endroit précisément ? Merci par avance pour votre aide.

28.11.2018 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter un pouce - suivez bien vos explications (autrement dit, vous n'augmentez pas dans ce modèle), puis regardez bien comment on glisse les mailles en attente, comment on monte 1 maille (montez en bien 5 ou 6) et comment on termine la moufle, puis le pouce en relevant les mailles dans l'ouverture du pouce. Bon tricot!

28.11.2018 - 12:37

country flag Robyn wrote:

Hi, I am working these mittens and there seems to be an error at the opening of the thumb gusset. You have marked: "When piece measures 9-10 cm / 3½"-4'', work an opening for thumb on next round as follows: Work 7-8 sts, slip the next 5-6 sts on a stitch holder, work the rest of round = 19-22 sts. On next round cast on 5-6 new sts behind sts on stitch holder = 24-28 sts." The cast on stitches need to be done in the row when you put the stitches on hold, not on the next round.

19.10.2018 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robyn, on this round, work the first 7-8 sts on round, then work the next 5-6 sts and slip these sts on a st holder or a thread, work round to end. On next round, work the first 7-8 sts, cast on 5-6 new sts and work to end of round. Happy knitting!

22.10.2018 - 07:50

country flag Lena wrote:

"Öffnung für den Daumen str: 7-8 M str, die nächsten 5-6 M auf eine Hilfsnadel legen, die Runde fertig str = 19-22 M. In der nächsten Rd über den stillgelegten M 5-6 neue M anschlagen" Korrektur: Die Runde wird nicht erst fertig gestrickt um dann in der nächsten Rd Maschen anzuschlagen, sondern es werden gleich 5-6 neue M angeschlagen.

01.05.2018 - 15:26

country flag Marianne wrote:

Hei, jeg står litt fast i denne oppskriften, og lurer på om jeg kan få litt hjelp? Jeg har kommet til der det står: "På neste omg legges det opp 5-6 m over m på tråden". Jeg skjønner ikke hva som menes med dette. Finnes det en video som viser dette? Jeg har strikket vott/tommel på en litt annen måte tidligere (Garnstudios Holiday touch-votter). Mvh. Marianne

03.10.2016 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne. Du har m fra tommel paa en traad, du starter da igen paa pinden og saetter nye m op hvor m paa traad sidder. Pröv at se videoen her:

04.10.2016 - 14:55

country flag Priscilla wrote:

Bedankt voor uw reactie! Het is mij bijna duidelijk. :) In het begin wel wat verwarring over die tricotsteek, bij een filmpje van jullie las ik dat bij rondbreien dit inhoudt dat alle naalden dan gewoon recht zijn. Ik heb nu een opzetje gemaakt en als ik het goed begrijp moet je de want na afloop binnenste buiten keren? Alvast bedankt!

25.02.2015 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Priscilla. Nee, je hoeft niet de want binnenstebuiten te keren.

26.02.2015 - 14:17

country flag Priscilla wrote:

Er staat dat je breinaalden zonder knop nodig hebt in twee verschillende maten. Bij het patroon staat het de wanten in het rond gebreid worden. Dat zou betekenen dat je dus 4 naalden zonder knop per maat nodig hebt. Ik kan dit nergens terug vinden in het patroon. Daarnaast moet ik 26 steken opzetten. Dat zou dus betekenen dat ik dat moet verdelen over 4 naalden. 26:4 kan je niet goed delen. Of wordt het anders bedoeld?

21.02.2015 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Priscilla. Je breit deze inderdaad in de rondte op 3 of 4 naalden (wat je het prettigst vind). Je verdeeld de st gelijkmatig over elke naald - het hoeft niet een gelijke aantal op elke naald te zijn. Brei je bijvoorbeeld over 4 naalden, dan kan je 6 op 3 van de naalden en 8 op de laatste zetten. Vergeet niet om de start van de naald te markeren (met een draad of stekenmarkeerder). Veel breiplezier.

23.02.2015 - 14:45

country flag Christiane wrote:

Ich bin beim rechten Handschuh und möchte die Daumenöffnung arbeiten. Wo wird dort mit 1 linken Masche begonnen?

20.02.2015 - 16:29

DROPS Design answered:

Sie beginnen die Rd beim rechten Handschuh ja im Muster, also mit 1 M re, 1 M li. Für den Daumen beginnen Sie die 12 bzw. 14 Muster-M nach der ersten Rechtsmasche zu zählen, d.h. anders ausgedrückt stricken Sie 13-15 M ab Rd-Beginn, legen die nächsten 5-6 M still und stricken 6-7 M glatt re. Die 1. Masche vor den stillgelegten Daumen-M ist damit eine Rechts-M, die 2. eine Links-M, beim linken Handschuh ist ja die 1. M nach den Daumen-M auch eine Rechts-M, die 2. eine Links-M.

21.02.2015 - 22:43

country flag Frisoline wrote:

Montrez vos mains !

06.06.2014 - 12:47