DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lavender Touch Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with broomstick lace in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-38
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-152
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
900-1000-1050-1200-1300-1450 g colour no 4311, grey/purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 14 tr x 8.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLE SIZE 20 mm – for pattern.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 tr by working 2 tr tog as follows:
Work 1 tr in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc by working 2 tr in 1 tr.

PATTERN 1:
Work 1 tr in back loop of every tr on every row from RS and front loop of every tr on every row from WS.

BROOMSTICK LACE:
ROW 1 (= WS):
Slip the first ch on needle size 20 mm, * pick up 1 st on hook size 5 mm through front loop of next st and slip st loosely on to needle size 20 mm *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Use 2 needles size 20 mm if needed. All sts on row are now loosely on needle size 20 mm.

ROW 2 (= RS):
* Insert hook through the first 5 sts on needle, work 1 sl st (this binds the 5 sts tog), slip sts off the needle and work 1 ch, 5 dc through the 5 sts, work 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain on needle, insert hook through the 5 sts on the needle, work 1 sl st (this binds the 5 sts tog), work 1 ch, slip sts off the needle and work 5 dc through the 5 sts.

ROW 3 (= WS): 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO above, 1 tr in front loop of every dc on previous row (i.e. do not work in ch and sl sts on previous row).

ROW 4 (= RS): 1 tr in back loop of every tr on previous row.

Repeat rows 1-4.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Work 203-212-235-250-277-296 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm with Nepal. Work next row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-3-0-3-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 167-175-194-206-229-245 tr (first 3 ch = 1 tr).
READ CROCHET INFO! Insert 1 marker after 48-50-56-59-66-70 tr in from each side (= 71-75-82-88-97-105 tr between markers on back piece). Then work PATTERN 1 - see explanation above. When 6 rows have been worked, work pattern 1 over the outermost 10 sts in each side of piece and tr through both loops of st over the remaining sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Work the outermost 10 sts in each side of piece in pattern 1 until finished measurements. When piece measures approx. 13 cm, dec 1 tr on each side of both markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 13-7-6-4-3½-2½cm 2-4-5-8-10-14 more times. After all dec 155-155-170-170-185-185 tr remain on row, i.e. there are now 45-45-50-50-55-55 tr on each front piece and 65-65-70-70-75-75 tr on back piece. Work tr until piece measures approx. 42-45-47-50-51-53 cm, adjust so that next row is from WS. Then work BROOMSTICK LACE – see explanation above, over all sts. When piece measures 51-54-56-59-60-62 cm, adjust so that next row is 4th row (= RS) in broomstick lace, finish each front piece and back piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work broomstick lace as before until 5 tr remain before marker = 40-40-45-45-50-50 tr (5 tr = armhole). Continue with broomstick lace as before over these sts. Work until piece measures 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm, adjust to finish with 3rd or 4th row in broomstick lace. The outermost 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts towards armhole = shoulder, these are no longer worked. Then work pattern 1 over the 20-20-23-23-26-26 sts towards mid front (= collar). Work 4 or 5 rows, adjust so that next row is from RS. Then work short rows from mid front as follows: 1 tr in each of the first 12-12-15-15-18-18 tr, * 1 htr in next tr, 1 dc in next tr and 1 sl st in next tr, turn piece with 1 ch. Skip sl st and work 1 sl st in dc, 1 dc in htr, 1 htr in first tr and tr the rest of row *. Turn and work 1 tr in each of the first 8-8-11-11-14-14 tr, then repeat on same row from *-* 1 more time. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Beg short rows from WS.

BACK PIECE:
Work broomstick lace as before over the middle 55-55-60-60-65-65 tr (5 tr in each side = armholes). When piece measures 69-72-75-78-81-83 cm, adjust so that next row is 3rd or 4th row in broomstick lace, work 1 row with tr over the outermost 20-20-22-22-24-24 tr in each side (the middle 15-15-16-16-17-17 tr = neck). Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog afterwards.
Work 44-44-44-50-50-50 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm with Nepal. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook. Continue with 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 35-35-35-40-40-40 tr. Then work pattern 1. When 6 rows have been worked like this (piece measures approx. 8 cm) and last row is from RS, work broomstick lace until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm, adjust so that next row is 3rd row in broomstick lace, inc 2 tr evenly on 3rd row in broomstick lace – read INCREASE TIP above. Then inc 3 tr evenly on next row = 40-40-40-45-45-45 tr. * Work 1 repetition of broomstick lace vertically. Work 1st-2nd row of broomstick lace, then inc 2 tr evenly on 3rd row in broomstick lace. Then inc 3 tr evenly on next row = 5 tr inc *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-2-3-3 more times vertically = 55-55-60-60-65-65 tr. Work broomstick lace until piece measures 55-56-55-56-56-57 cm vertically, adjust to finish with 3rd or 4th row. Fasten off. Work another sleeve the same way.

POCKET:
Work 32 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm with Nepal. Work next row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 tr (first 3 ch = 1 tr). Then work pattern 1 until piece measures 12 cm, adjust so that last row is from RS. Work 1st and 2nd row in broomstick lace (= 5 repetitions). Fasten off. Work another pocket the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back, edge to edge and then sew collar to neck line on back piece. Sew tog sleeves edge to edge. NOTE: Only sew in tr rows on sleeve. Sew sleeves in body. NOTE: Only sew sleeves to tr rows on body. Sew the pockets on to front piece. Sew on buttons evenly down on left band – top button should be 1 cm down from broomstick lace. Button through tr on right band.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Monica wrote:

I'm so excited I'll begin with right side I finished the body part...

11.05.2016 - 06:55

country flag Monica wrote:

I'm now on the broomstick lace pattern of the body. How am I getting all stitches on the hook? Tthere are 165 dc and the hook it's like 50 cms. Even if I have 2 hooks how do I work with them? M.

05.05.2016 - 06:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, you will need help of both straight needle size 20 mm and when transfering the loops on the needle, you can divide the number of loops by 2 and transfer them evenly on each of the both knitting needles. see also video below. Happy crocheting!

06.05.2016 - 08:47

country flag Monica wrote:

Thank you so much for your responses I'm advancing in my work an it looks correct and hope to continue doing well. I'll post a picture when it's done. Monica

28.04.2016 - 16:03

country flag Monica wrote:

What happens if I continue with pattern 1 all body? I like the pattern and how it looks

28.04.2016 - 04:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, you may continue in pattern 1 if you like to - on sleeves you will have to adjust the pattern for the inc. Happy crocheting!

28.04.2016 - 08:37

country flag Monica wrote:

I just started from the beginning. Did my swatch and chewed the gauge. It was 14 dc in 10 cms. But when I was working the pattern 1, in the body the Dc were now 16. I started the pocket to check it and in 10cms doing the pattern 1 I have 15 or 16 dc Why is not constant? And working Dc first row is skipped right? Thanks in advance

23.04.2016 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, make sure you keep same tension when working swatch (on a few sts) and when working on the body (much more sts) to keep the correct tension and finished measurements. On first row on body you will work with dc skipping ch evenly to make sure that the fundation chains will not be too tight, ie that the bottom edge of the jacket will not be tight, you start with a longer chain and crochet less dc. Happy crocheting!

25.04.2016 - 10:10

country flag Monica wrote:

It happens to become extremely wide like 2xxl so I decided to downsize 2 sizes to M size. I'll write how it comes. Thank you for your rapid response

20.04.2016 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, remember to check and keep correct tension to keep measurements shown in measurement chart for each size - read also here about sizing. Happy crocheting!

20.04.2016 - 16:13

country flag Monica wrote:

About the BODY: Work next row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 1-4-3-0-3-4 ch, * skip ch 1, ... the sequence before the asterisk how is it work. I 'm XL I'll start with 250 chains and in the 4 I start the DC and then 1 hd in " I do not understand " *skip.....

16.04.2016 - 06:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, in size XL, work this 1st row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 41 times = the entire row = you will get 206 dc + the 3 ch from beg of row. Happy crocheting!

19.04.2016 - 16:41

country flag Mari Korhonen wrote:

Mitat täsmää näytetilkussa, mutta helma vaikuttaa liian leveältä. Mikähän on oikea mitta helmalle m-koossa?

03.02.2015 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Koon M helman ympärys on 108 cm, eli takakappaleessa 54 cm.

06.02.2015 - 17:20

country flag Mari Korhonen wrote:

Seems to become too wide.

03.02.2015 - 18:57

country flag Marina Postorino wrote:

Semplice da realizzare e da indossare

10.06.2014 - 22:09