DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 158-10
DROPS design: Pattern no z-684
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
600-650-750 g colour no 6309, medium petrol

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Beg every round/row with 3 ch that replace 1st tr and finish every round/row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round/row.

PATTERN GROUP:
Each pattern group consists of: 1 ch, 2 TR WORKED TOG - see explanation below, 2 ch, 2 tr worked tog and 1 ch.

TR WORKED TOG:
* Make 1 YO, insert hook in ch-space, get yarn, make a YO, pull through 2 of the sts on hook *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

CROCHET 3 TR TOG:
Work 3 tr into 1 tr at beg of row as follows: Work 2 ch (= replace 1 tr), work 1 tr, but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec at beg of row by working 1 sl st over the tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until 1 tr to be dec remains, turn piece.
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CIRCLE:
Work 5 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 1: Work 13 tr in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work * 2 tr in every tr*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 26 tr.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 tr in first tr, then 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 39 tr.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 tr in first tr, then 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 52 tr.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 tr in next tr, then 2 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 26 ch-spaces and 26 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 6: In first tr work PATTERN GROUP - see explanation above, * 1 tr in next tr, 1 pattern group in next tr *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr remains, 1 tr in last tr = 13 pattern groups with 1 tr between each.
Then work piece back and forth. Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in first st on row. Turn piece.
ROW 7 (= from WS): 2 tr in first tr, * 1 pattern group in next pattern group, 2 tr in next tr (= tr-group) *, repeat from *-* until 1 pattern group from previous row remains, 1 pattern group = 13 pattern groups with 13 tr-groups between each. Turn piece.
ROW 8: 1 pattern groups in first pattern group, * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next tr in tr-group, 1 pattern group in next pattern group *, repeat from *-* until 1 tr-group remains, 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next tr in tr-group = 13 groups with 3 tr between each. Turn piece.
ROW 9: 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next tr in tr-group, * 1 pattern group in pattern group, 2 tr in first tr of tr-group, 1 tr in each of the next tr *, repeat from *-* until 1 pattern group from previous row remains, 1 pattern group = 13 groups with 4 tr between each. Turn piece.
Then repeat 8th and 9th row until 6 rounds + 18-20-22 rows have been worked (= 19-21-23 tr between every pattern group) = 247-273-299 tr and 13 pattern group. Piece measures approx. 20-22-23 cm from centre and outwards.

Now work armholes as follows in the different sizes:

SIZE S/M:
ROW 25 (= from WS): Inc in every group with tr as before. Work 20 tr, 1 pattern group, 20 tr, work 50 loose ch (= right armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups. Then work tr-groups and pattern groups as before over the next 114 tr, work 50 loose ch (= left armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups, work as before the rest of row, finish with 1 sl st in first tr on row = 180 tr and 100 ch. Turn piece.
ROW 26: Continue with pattern and inc as before but work first ch-row (= left armhole) as follows: 10 tr, skip 1 ch, 11 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group, skip 1 ch, 11 tr, skip 1 ch, 10 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group and skip 1 ch. I next ch-row (= right armhole) work the same way but in opposite order, i.e. beg by skipping 1 ch, 1 pattern group and finish with tr = 273 tr.
ROW 27-50: Work pattern as before but now inc only on even numbered rows until 50 rows have been worked in total = 429 tr (33 tr in every tr-group). Piece measures approx. 42 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE L/XL:
ROW 27 (= from WS): Inc in every group with tr as before. Work 22 tr, 1 pattern group, 22 tr, work 54 loose ch (= right armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups. Then work pattern as before over the next 126 tr, work 54 loose ch (= left armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups, work as before the rest of row, finish with 1 sl st in first tr on row = 198 tr and 108 ch. Turn piece.
ROW 28: Continue with pattern and inc as before but work first ch-row (= left armhole) as follows: 11 tr, skip 1 ch, 12 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group, skip 1 ch, 12 tr, skip 1 ch, 11 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group and skip 1 ch. I second ch-row (= right armhole) work the same way but in opposite order, i.e. beg by skipping 1 ch, 1 pattern group and finish with tr = 299 tr.
ROW 29-52: Work pattern as before but now inc only on even numbered rows until 52 rows have been worked in total = 455 tr (35 tr in every tr-group). Piece measures approx. 43 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROW 29 (= from WS): Inc in every group with tr as before. Work 24 tr, 1 pattern group, 24 tr, work 58 loose ch (= right armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups. Then work pattern as before over the next 138 tr, work 58 loose ch (= left armhole), skip 2 tr-groups and 2 pattern groups, work as before the rest of row, finish with 1 sl st in first pattern group on row = 216 tr and 116 ch. Turn piece.
ROW 30: Continue with pattern and inc as before but work first ch-row (= left armhole) as follows: 12 tr, skip 1 ch, 13 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group, skip 1 ch, 13 tr, skip 1 ch, 12 tr, skip 1 ch, 1 pattern group and skip 1 ch. I second ch-row (= right armhole) work the same way but in opposite order, i.e. beg by skipping 1 ch, 1 pattern group and finish with tr = 325 tr.
ROW 31-54: Work pattern as before but now inc only on even numbered rows until 54 rows have been worked in total = 481 tr and 37 tr in every tr-group. Piece measures approx. 45 cm from centre and outwards.

ALL SIZES:
Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows from WS: Work 16-17-18 tr, insert 1st marker here, work 17-18-19 tr, * 1 pattern group, 33-35-37 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, insert 2nd marker here (1st-2nd marker = right front piece). Work 1 pattern group, 33-35-37 tr, 1 pattern group, 33-35-37 tr and 1 pattern group, insert 3rd marker here. * Work 33-35-37 tr, 1 pattern group *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, 17-18-19 tr, insert 4th marker. (3rd-4th marker = left front piece). Work the rest of row. Sts between 1st and 4th marker are up towards neck. Cut the yarn and fasten.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Now work right front piece between 1st and 2nd marker, beg from 2nd marker (i.e. from RS) = 149-158-167 tr and 4 pattern groups. Continue inc on every row in tr-groups as before BUT do not inc in tr-groups in each side of front piece - AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 tr at beg of every row by CROCHET 3 TR TOG - see explanation above. Continue to work until 12-14-16 rows have been worked over front piece. Cut the yarn and fasten.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work left front piece between 3rd and 4th marker the same way as right front piece, beg from 4th marker (i.e. from RS).

SLEEVES:
Work back and forth from armhole and down, work every row tog with 1 sl st at the end of row. Use hook size 3.5 mm and Alpaca. Beg by working 86-94-102 tr around the opening for sleeve, beg of row should be under sleeve. Then work 3 rows with 1 tr in every tr. Continue with 1 tr in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME dec in the different sizes as follows: READ DECREASE TIP!
SIZE S/M: Dec 1 st in each side of piece every other row 4 times and then every 3rd row 12 times (= 16 times in total) = 54 tr.
SIZE L/XL: Dec 1 st in each side of piece alternately every 3rd and 2nd row 18 times in total = 58 tr.
SIZE XXL/XXXL: Dec 1 st in each side of piece every other row 17 times and then every 3rd row 4 times (= 21 times in total) = 60 tr.
Then work pattern groups as follows:
ROW 1: 2 tr, 1 ch * work the next 2 tr tog, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr.
ROW 2: Work 2 tr, * in next ch work 1 pattern group, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 2 tr. Turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 2 tr, 1 pattern group in each of the next pattern groups until 2 tr remain, work 1 tr in each of these. Turn piece. Repeat 3rd row until piece measures approx. 61 cm in all sizes. Cut the yarn and fasten.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work 1 round with around the entire jacket as follows: * 1 pattern group, skip 2 tr/1 row *, repeat from *-* the entire round.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.04.2019
Correction - ALL SIZES:
Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows from WS: Work 16-17-18, insert 1st marker here, work 17-18-19 tr, * 1 pattern group, 33-35-37 tr *

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (295)

country flag Lynn wrote:

One more question- for the first pattern group on row 6, do I omit the ch1 at the start of the group instructions? I understand the ch3 will count as the first dc.

03.10.2018 - 00:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, start the round 6 with 3 ch then work 1 pattern group (= 1 ch, 2 dc tog, 2 ch, 2 dc tog, 1 ch), and at the end of the round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round -these 3 ch will not count as first st. Happy crocheting!

03.10.2018 - 07:58

country flag Lynn wrote:

I’m having trouble starting row 6- Do I ch 3 then make the pattern group?

02.10.2018 - 02:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, You start row 6 with a pattern group ( 1 ch, 2 TR WORKED TOG , 2 ch, 2 tr worked tog and 1 ch.). However, you have to replace the fisrt tr with 3 ch st. Happy Crafting!

02.10.2018 - 07:49

country flag Deborah wrote:

Sorry for the confusion with my last question - I have done the arm holes and have done row 50. Now following the all sizes part to put the markers in for th side pieces. I started working the pattern with 33 tr then pattern group then 16 tr before placing my marker. Is this correct? I have then worked 17 tr then pattern group, 33, group, 33, group, 33, group, 33 then placed 2nd marker. Looking how this is working, it is not even with The arm holes and remaining symmetrical. Thank you

07.08.2018 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deborah, thanks for these further explanations. first marker should be 16 tr before 2nd pattern group, then work 17 sts (1 pattern group, 33 sts) x 4 times and insert 2nd marker here. Work 1 pattern group, 33 sts, 1 pattern group, 33 sts, 1 pattern group, insert 3rd marker here, now work (33 sts, 1 pattern group) x 4 times, 17 tr and insert 4th marker. Continue now to the end of row as before. Both armholes should be symetrical. If you have the correct number of sts, it's a bit tricky to find out where/what is wrong, make sure your armholes are symetrical and have the correct number of sts for each front piece. Happy crocheting!

07.08.2018 - 15:38

country flag Deborah wrote:

Hi, I am struggling with the placement markers for the s/m size. I started working the pattern with 33 tr then pattern group then 16 tr before placing my marker. Is this correct? I have then worked 17 tr then pattern group, 33, group, 33, group, 33, group, 33 then placed 2nd marker. Looking how this is working, it is not even with The arm holes and remaining symmetrical. Thank you

07.08.2018 - 08:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deborah, in size S/M you should have 19 tr between pattern groups on the row before crocheting the armholes, then you crochet as before (inc in tr group = 20 tr in each tr-group) and pattern groups as explained, skipping sts replaced by chains for both armholes. Both armholes should be symetrical. Happy crocheting!

07.08.2018 - 09:33

country flag Rosemarijn wrote:

Ik heb toer 26 gehaakt maar als ik het armsgat wegdenk dan zet het patroon zich in toer 27-50 niet precies voort zoals daarvoor, klopt dat? Als ik het werk op de goede kant bekijk dan klopt de ‘taartpunt’ in de nek nog. Aan weerszijden zijn 21 stokjes, over de 50 lossen komen opnieuw 21 stokjes (dus geen patroongroep er tussen). Dan aan weerzijden een patroongroep, 21 stokjes en weer een patroongroep. Dan stopt het armsgat en is er opnieuw een patroongroep, wat doe ik verkeerd?

04.08.2018 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rosemarijn, Je kunt het patroon met de stokjesgroepen, stokjes en meerderingen gewoon voortzetten over de 50 lossen, alsof er geen gat is. In plaats van in de steken van de vorige toer, haak je dan in de lossenlus. Omdat je heen en weer aan het haken bent begint het patroon bij het armsgat aan de ene kant bij een stokjesgroep en aan de andere kant bij een patroongroep.

06.08.2018 - 09:48

country flag Sonia wrote:

Bonjour, dans la toute dernière étape de la manche, dois-je tourner l'ouvrage entre le 1er et le deuxième rang ce n'est pas spécifié . Merci d'avance

05.07.2018 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, les manches se crochètent en allers et retours en joignant la fin de chaque rang avec 1 mc dans la 1ère m du début du tour, on va donc crocheter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers tout le temps pour conserver la même texture. Bon crochet!

06.07.2018 - 08:08

country flag Lenka wrote:

Prosím, nevím si rady s ř. 27 u vel. L/XL. Poté, co uháčkuji 54 řo, návod říká, abych vynechala 2 skupinky DS a 2 sekvence vzoru - myslí se tím vynechat následující sekvenci, sk. DS, další sekvenci a sk. DS? To by však znamenalo, že další háčkování pokračuje sekvencí, která bude jakoby ve vzduchu a až s další sk. DS se příze vrátí k původní řadě. Nemělo by se po 54 řo začínat sk. DS? Tedy vynechat sekv., sk. DS, sekv., sk. DS a 3. sekv.? Děkuji

29.06.2018 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Lenko, návod by měl být v pořádku - je to tak, jak píšete, ve 27. řadě (RUBOVÉ!) vynecháte sekvenci vzoru + 22 DS + sekvenci vzoru + 22 DS a háčkujete do původní řady dál jako před tím; začínáte sekvencí vzoru - ta by měla navazovat na předchozí sekvence, aby zůstal zachován "paprsek" vzoru. Hodně zdaru! Hana

29.07.2018 - 15:31

country flag Kat wrote:

I'm currently working on the L/XL and I'm having trouble figuring out the first arm hole row. exactly how many pattern groups and DC stitches am I skipping for the 54 chain? Also, which stitch am I starting the chain on ?

30.05.2018 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kat, on row 27 in size L/XL you skip for armhole: 1 pattern group, 22 dc, 1 pattern group and 22 dc , chain 54 and continue working as before (next will be a pattern group) over the next 126 dc then skip for 2nd armhole 2 dc group and 2 pattern group and crochet 54 chains then continue in pattern as before to the end of row. Happy crocheting!

31.05.2018 - 08:12

Jillian wrote:

Before I ask my question I wanted to tell you that I love your designs, they are amazing. Thank you for all the free patterns. My question is once you work the right and left front of the jacket they will be an opening at the neck so how do you join them . Thank you

18.05.2018 - 19:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gillian, thank you very much. There shouldn't be any opening, when the jacket is flat it should looks like the chart with measurements, ie the top of circle will shape the collar and each front piece is worked then separately for some more cm/inches. Happy crocheting!

22.05.2018 - 08:10

Miffy wrote:

Hi Please can you explain exactly how to work 86 stitches for the first row of armholes in s/m? I had assumed you would work into every single chain, plus the top/bottom of every stitch, but there are many more stitches and chains going around the opening. It also unclear how to deal with the ‘sides’ of the stitches that form the bottom and top of the armholes. Thanks.

12.05.2018 - 23:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miffy, crochet 43 sts along each side of the armholes, arrange the sts skipping sts evenly if necessary to have a nice edge. Happy crocheting!

14.05.2018 - 11:49