DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Late Summer Night's Dream

Knitted DROPS skirt in garter st with short rows in ”Delight”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 156-7
DROPS design: Pattern no de-129
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 02, plum/beige/heather
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 11, lilac/green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st and 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
ELASTIC: approx. 66-110 cm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

KNITTING TIP:
Yarn change should always be in same side of piece (i.e. up towards waist).

PATTERN:
ROW 1 (= RS): K with plum/beige/heather.
ROW 2 (= WS): K with plum/beige/heather.
ROW 3: K with lilac/green.
ROW 4: P with lilac/green.
ROW 5: K with plum/beige/heather.
ROW 6: K with plum/beige/heather.
Repeat rows 3 to 6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 tog inside 1 edge st at beg of every row from RS the entire piece.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc inside 1 edge st at the end of every row from RS the entire piece.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

SHORT ROWS:
Work short rows in stocking st with lilac/green. NOTE: Tighten yarn at every turn to avoid holes.
ROW 1 and remaining rows from RS are worked as follows: Work 1 st in stocking st, K 2 tog, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 YO, 1 st in stocking st, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work the first 90-94-102-108-116-124 sts, turn.
ROW 4: Work the first 75-78-81-86-92-103 sts, turn.
ROW 6: Work the first 60-62-60-64-69-82 sts, turn.
ROW 8: Work the first 45-46-40-42-46-61 sts, turn.
ROW 10: Work the first 30-30-20-21-23-40 sts, turn.
Size S, M and XXXL:
ROW 12: Work the first 15-15-20 sts, turn.
ROW 13: Work 1 st in stocking st, K 2 tog, stocking st until 1 st remains, 1 YO, 1 st in stocking st, turn.
ALL SIZES:
Work back over all 142-146-154-160-168-176 sts.
There are now 14-14-12-12-12-14 rows in stocking st.
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SKIRT:
Work back and forth in stocking st and garter st on circular needle. Dec in one side - READ DECREASE TIP, and inc in the other side - READ INCREASE TIP, on every row from RS the entire piece, to get diagonal ridges. READ KNITTING TIP!

Loosely cast on 142-146-154-160-168-176 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with plum/beige/heather. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows on 1st row (= RS): Work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above. When short rows are done, work PATTERN - see explanation above - over the next 34-30-26-26-26-30 rows. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue to work short rows and pattern alternately as explained above 6-7-8-9-10-10 times in total, but in size S, M, L and XXXL work over 30-26-30-26 rows 2nd, 4th and 6th time pattern is worked. NOTE: In size XXXL work over 26 rows 8th and 10th time pattern is worked. There are 3-4-5-9-10-5 repetitions with pattern over 34-30-26-26-26-30 rows, and 3-3-3-0-0-5 repetitions with pattern over 30-26-30-0-0-26 rows.
When all repetitions with short rows and pattern have been worked, skirt measures approx. 70-76-84-90-100-108 cm in waist (i.e. on the side where sts were dec on every row from RS). Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew cast-on edge and cast-off edge tog. Sew neatly tog st by st. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam. Fold edge in waist (i.e. the side with yarn change) 2 cm on WS and fasten. Leave a little opening to thread the elastic through. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (147)

country flag Annett wrote:

Hallo, nun habe ich die Wolle für den Rock gekauft und grübele schon lange und habe nun auch die deutschen Kommentare gelesen. Also die Anleitung passt nicht zu dem Modell dass oben abgebildet ist. Dort kann ich nicht so viele Reihen glatt erkennen. Die Anleitung passt eher zu dem unteren Rock (Galerie) der A-förmig ist. Wie strickt man nun den Rock der oben abgebildet ist? Kann mir eine Kundin weiterhelfen?

10.12.2023 - 16:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annett, die Anleitung stimmt schon, ich habe selber diesen Rock für mich gestrickt. Die gestrichte Linie in der Maßskizze ist der Anschlagsrand/Abkettenrand; dann wird man quer stricken, und dazu verkürzten Reihen um die richtige Form zu haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.12.2023 - 09:26

country flag Petra Meier wrote:

Hallo, wo kann ich denn noch delight kaufen? Es ist überall in den angegebenen online Shops nicht verfügbar. Ich brauche die Farben pflaume-beige-erika und flieder-grün, weil mir ein Rock von euch sehr gefällt. Danke! LG Petra

26.11.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Meier, am besten fragen Sie mal Ihr DROPS Händler, ob sie noch einige Knäuel haben, oder vielleicht können Sie beim DROPS Workshop mal fragen, ob einige Strickerinnen damit helfen können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.11.2023 - 09:45

country flag Ute Bächle wrote:

Ich möchte mir den Rock in Größe M stricken, die Länge des Rockes ist mir zu kurz.\r\nWie kann ich den Rock länger auf ca 50:cm stricken?\r\nKönnten Sie mir helfen. Liebe Grüße Ute

10.04.2023 - 07:58

country flag Bodil Lefstad wrote:

Når jeg skal velge størrelse på dette skjørtet, bør jeg velge etter målene (2 størrelser større enn jeg normalt bruker), eller vil dere si livvidden er elastisk?

07.04.2023 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bodil, Velg størrelsen din utfra målene på måleskisse. Disse tar i betraktning at mønsteret er elastisk. God fornøyelse!

11.04.2023 - 06:52

country flag Solveig Marie Olsen wrote:

Hej, Jeg kan ikke forstå, hvornår det er glatstrik og hvornår det er retstrik. Jeg er nået til 1. P, som skal være glatstrik ( men er jo retsiden, så vel bare ret) men p.2 + 4+ 6 osv er de vrang? (SÅ det bliver glatstrik over 10 pinde) Hilsen Solveig

10.03.2023 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Solveig. Du strikker først 2 pinner retstrikk, deretter starter du med forkortede pinnene, og disse strikkes i glattstrikk Når du har strikket de forkortede pinnene ferdig er det 14-14-12-12-12-14 pinner i glattstrikk. Deretter strikker du etter MØNSTER, som er forklart i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

13.03.2023 - 11:12

country flag Gabriela wrote:

Hi, I've bought 100g of Delight N.2 and just noticed that Delight N.11 is no longer available. What other options would you give me to do this skirt? :( Best wishes,

29.01.2023 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gabriela, you could try to substitute it with number 06 or number 14. You can check online how these colours are different to nº11, so that you can better choose which final result you want. Happy knitting!

29.01.2023 - 20:39

country flag Christine wrote:

I made this lovely skirt a while ago and I love it so am planning to knit another one. However, following the pattern it was really short, even with the right guage. I don't want to go up a size, just increase the length by about 3 inches. Am I on the right track to just add stitches to the cast on row or have I totally lost the plot?

19.07.2022 - 14:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, the numbers in this pattern have been calculated for a specific hip/length and even the short rows are carefully calculated. To change only the length, you would have to make many changes to the pattern, resulting in a completely different one. Happy knitting!

24.07.2022 - 17:47

country flag Amanda Lubit wrote:

Im not sure what I did wrong because Ive counted and recounted… but can I fix it by adding extra rounds of the shortrows- pattern combo to fix it?

28.06.2022 - 18:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lubit, it's a bit difficult to answer without seeing your work, bring it to your store or send them a picture or ask in a forum, eg in our DROPS Workshop, where other knitters might be able to help you. Happy knitting!

29.06.2022 - 09:23

country flag Amanda wrote:

I am halfway through the size small and the skirt is very long with short ends - the top is 27 cm and the bottom 38 cm. But I checked my gauge and it is right. Once it is finished and sewn together does this mean the waist opening will be 27x2 = 54 cm? Or is there an angle involved that I dont see yet that will make it bigger? Second question, can I add 1-2 additional rounds of short rows followed by patterns to make it wider? Or would that not work?

28.06.2022 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amanda, when the skirt is finished it should measure approx. 70 cm towards the waist, maybe you haven't worked all the repeats? you should work short rows and pattern a total of 6 times but with 30 rows in the pattern the 2nd, 4th and 6th time. Or maybe then your number of rows in the tension is not that right?

28.06.2022 - 11:34

country flag Nayarslimani wrote:

Salut a tous, j'adore ce genre de jupes,est ce qu il y'a quelqu'un qu peut expliquer depuis le début ,ou me donner une adresse youtube,merci d'avance, combien coute ces jupes?est ce qu il y'a quelqu'un qu peut me les tricotes et j'achète,

28.01.2022 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nayarslimani, vous pouvez réaliser ce modèle en suivant pas à pas les explications, ou bien contacter nos différents magasins DROPS, on pourra probablement vous conseiller quelqu'un qui pourra vous la tricoter.

31.01.2022 - 08:31