The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter Blush |
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Knitted DROPS beret and shawl in garter st and stockinette st in ”Snow” or "Andes".
DROPS 156-49 |
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TIP FOR CHANGING YARN: When changing ball, divide the old strand in two the last 15 cm / 6" – cut one part off, do the same on the new thread. Place the first and last 15 cm / 6" over each other to get normal thickness of yarn and continue working - do this to avoid visible yarn change. GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st. I.e. work in back and front loop of st. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- BERET: Worked in the round on circular needle and double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 45 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Snow. Work in GARTER ST – see explanation above – until piece measures 6 cm / 2⅜". REMEMBER THE GAUGE! On next round inc 1 st in every st - see INCREASE TIP = 90 sts on needle. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 16 cm / 6¼", insert 5 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker at the beg of the round. Then insert 1 marker for every 18 sts = 5 markers. Then continue in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec every other round as follows: Dec 1 st on each side of every marker 8 times in total - see DECREASE TIP = 10 sts remain. Pull yarn through the remaining 10 sts, tighten tog and fasten. ----------------------------------------------------------- SHAWL: Worked back and forth on circular needle. READ TIP FOR CHANGING YARN! Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Work as follows: ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st) insert a marker in this st, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO and K 1 = 13 sts. ROW 2 (= WS): P 1, 1 YO, P until 1 st remains, 1 YO and P 1 = 2 sts inc. ROW 3: K 1, 1 YO, K until mid st, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 1 YO, K until 1 st remains, 1 YO and K 1 = 4 sts inc. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! ROW 4: P 1, 1 YO, P until 1 st remains, 1 YO and P 1 = 2 sts inc. ROW 5: K 1, 1 YO, K until mid st, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 1 YO, K until 1 st remains, 1 YO and K 1 = 4 sts inc. ROW 6: K 1, 1 YO, K until 1 st remains, 1 YO and K 1 = 2 sts inc. ROW 7: K 1, 1 YO, K until mid st, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 1 YO, K until 1 st remains, 1 YO and K 1 = 4 sts inc. Repeat rows 2 - 7 until piece measures approx. 45 cm = 17¾" over mid st – adjust so that last row is 7th row with K sts and inc. K 1 row from wrong side and bind off loosely on next row from right side. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (55)
Katt wrote:
In the shawl pattern...what does the (=mid st) mean? I'm confused...does this mean middle stitch? Please help!
26.02.2019 - 17:18DROPS Design answered:
Hi Katt, Yes mid-st is the middle stitch. Happy knitting!
27.02.2019 - 06:45Theroux wrote:
Je n'arrive pas a avoir la meme taille que vous, car pour 10 cm = 13 mailles donc pour 54 cm ce doit faire 70 mailles, vous avez du vous tromper ? j'ai du le refaire car 45 mailles cela me fait 35cm , merci de me dire si vous vous etes trompés?
03.01.2019 - 22:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Theroux, les explications de ce modèle sont justes, on monte moins de mailles que le tour de tête pour que le béret tienne bien en place. Toutefois, vous pouvez tout à fait ajuster à votre taille/à votre goût si vous le souhaitez. Bon tricot!
04.01.2019 - 12:26Anja wrote:
In der Anleitung für das Tuch steht, zum Schluss soll man nochmal 2 Reihen rechts stricken, sodass eine Krausrippe entsteht. Oben steht ein Krausrippe würde aus 1 Reihe rechts dann eine links gestrickte bestehen. Wie ist das jetzt bei dem Tuch, wie viele Reihen muss ich wie stricken? Danke und Liebe Grüße
15.12.2018 - 23:19DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anja, wenn man Krausrechts in Reihen strickt, strickt man 2 Reihen rechts für 1 Krausrippe. Am Ende vom Tuch enden Sie dann mit 1 Hinreihe rechts, dann 1 Rückreihe rechts und Maschen abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.12.2018 - 10:01Theresa wrote:
Hallo, wenn ich weniger cm in die Höhe stricke, ist er dann automatisch kleiner? Also ich möchte den für mein Kind stricken. Und ich kann mir im Moment das Verhältnis vorstellen. Liebe Grüße
06.04.2018 - 11:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Theresa, wenn Sie den Tuch weniger cm in der Höhe stricken, wird er kleiner in cm, beachten Sie nur, daß er in der Breite auch passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.04.2018 - 13:02Annelene Andersen wrote:
Jeg er rasende, sidder her med 20 cm garn tilbage, og der mangler at blive strikket 3 cm. Det er altså ikke iorden.
27.01.2018 - 22:59Ile wrote:
Buongiorno, è possibile lavorare la parte centrale dello scialle senza i "buchi" del gettato? Grazie
21.11.2017 - 12:32DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Ile. Gli aumenti sono necessari per la struttura stessa dello scialle. Per evitare il buco, può lavorare il gettato ritorto, oppure può cambiare tipo di aumento, p.es lavorando la maglia sia nel filo davanti che in quello dietro, oppure sollevando il filo della riga precedente. Le consigliamo di fare un piccolo campione di prova per verificare se il risultato la soddisfa. Buon lavoro!
22.11.2017 - 10:25Magda wrote:
Dobrý den, pleti baretu a není možné jasné jestli se myslí ve výši 16 cm od začátku baretu, včetně těch 6 cm nebo je to myšleno 16 cm od začátku licoveho zerzeje. Děkuji
09.05.2017 - 14:08DROPS Design answered:
Dobrý den, Magdo, myšlena je celková výše pleteniny, od počáteční, nahozené řady.
23.09.2017 - 14:15LAFON Marie-Claire wrote:
Je souhaite tricoter le béret, mais je ne comprend pas comment tricoter en rond avec 45 mailles sur les aiguilles circulaires. Faut-il commencer avec les aiguilles doubles pointes ? Merci.
24.02.2017 - 19:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lafon, vous pouvez commencer avec les aiguilles doubles pointes et changer pour l'aiguille circulaire quand vous aurez augmenté à 90 m. Bon tricot!
27.02.2017 - 08:54MARYKATE wrote:
I would very much appreciate, if you could clarify something on the beret pattern. What do you mean by "then continue in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec every other round". What confuses me is the "every other round" Thanking you in advance
09.01.2017 - 16:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marykate, this mean you will work 1 round with dec, 1 round without dec, and repeat these 2 rounds. Happy knitting!
10.01.2017 - 08:49Marykate Gavridou wrote:
Hello, I want to knit the beret but using DROPS ANDES. The needles for ANDES is 9mm instead of 6mm. Can you please let know what will be the pattern for ANDES(ie how many sts should I cast on in order to get the same result) Thanking you in advance Kind Regards
28.12.2016 - 18:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gavridou, this hat is worked either with Andes or with Eskimo with smaller needle, ie size 6 mm or the size required to get 13 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Make sure to check and keep your gauge. Happy knitting!
29.12.2016 - 15:35