DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 13.00 RON /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 25.00 RON /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 127.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Frost

Crochet DROPS hat and neck warmer in ”Karisma” or ”Lima” and ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS 157-30
DROPS design: Pattern no u-747
Yarn group B and A
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HAT:
Size: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 – 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 72, light pearl grey
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 9010, light grey
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white

NECK WARMER:
Size: One-size
Measurements: Circumference at the bottom: 61 cm Circumference at the top: 57 cm Height: 26 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 72, light pearl grey
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50 g colour no 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100 g in colour no 9010, light grey
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50 g in colour no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 14 tr x 8.5 rounds with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 13.00 RON /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 25.00 RON /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 127.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch at beg of round.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

CROCHET TOG:
Work 2 tr into 1 tr: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, fasten off.
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HAT:
Work 69-72-74 ch on hook size 5 mm with 1 strand Karisma and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 1 dc in every ch = 69-72-74 dc.
ROUND 2-9: Work 1 dc in back loop of every dc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2-4-5 dc, * 2 tr in next dc, 1 tr in next dc, 2 tr in next dc, 1 tr in each of the next 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 13 times in total, 1 tr in each of the next 2-3-4 dc = 95-98-100 tr.
ROUND 11-13: Work 1 tr in every tr – REMEMBER CROCHET TENSION!
Insert 7 markers in the piece as follows: S/M: Alternately with 14 and 13 tr between every marker, M/L: 14 tr between every marker. L/XL: Alternately 14 and 15 tr like this: 5 times 14 tr and 2 times 15 tr.
Work 1 tr in every tr AT THE SAME TIME on every round work 2 tr tog on left side of all markers – read CROCHET TOG. Continue like this until 11-7-9 tr remain. Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through sts, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly.
Then work CROCHET EDGE - see explanation above - with 2 strands Kid-Silk around the opening.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked bottom up. Work 86 LOOSE ch on hook size 5 mm with 1 strand Karisma and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 1 tr in every ch = 86 tr.
ROUND 2-5: Work 1 tr in every tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 6: Work 1 tr in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts by working every 13th and 14th st tog the entire round - READ CROCHET TOG = 80 tr.
Then work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures approx. 26 cm vertically. Fasten off. Then work CROCHET EDGE - see explanation above - with 2 strands Kid-Silk around both openings.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Vanderschrick Christiane wrote:

Je souhaite tricoter ensemble un fil de Kid silk avec un fil de Karisma, quelle aiguilles (en mm) faut il utiliser ? Merci

02.01.2022 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vanderschrick, nous vous proposons ici de mélanger Lima et Kid-Silk (Lima appartient au même groupe de fils que Karisma), avec des aiguilles 5 - consultez les modèles indiqué et rappelez-vous d'adapter la taille des aiguilles à votre échantillon en fonction du modèle et/ou de la texture souhaitée. Bon tricot!

03.01.2022 - 13:03

country flag Eldy Johnston wrote:

I am knitting the 'Morning Frost' hat pattern and am having difficulty with the shape of the back. Would it be possible to see the side/back view of the pattern? It may help me with finishing the project. Would appreciate your help

18.06.2021 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eldy, unfortunately we don't have another pictures of this piece. What is ecaxtly you wantto know about the back? Happy Stitching!

19.06.2021 - 00:34

country flag Sharon wrote:

I'm confused about which stitch is the correct stitch to do the slip stitch at the end of the round. If I slip stitch into the third chain in the chain 3 that marked the beginning of the next round, do I dc the stitch right. before it? Also, I began the rounds with the chain 3 as described but ended up with way too many stitches. How do I keep the 86 stitches if I'm adding a chain 3 to every round? Please help. Thanks!

04.01.2021 - 04:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you cast on 86 chains, join with a slip stitch in the first chain to make a ring of chain, then crochet 3 chain to replace the first dc of the round and then 1 dc in each of the next 85 chains = there are 86 dc (including the first 3 chains that replace the first dc). Happy crocheting!

05.01.2021 - 10:13

country flag Delphine wrote:

Bonjour Merci pour ce super modèle qui donne envie pour cet hiver. Je ne comprends pas l'indication "1 fil Karisma + 1 fil Kid-Silk (= 2 fils)", alors qu'il faut 100g du premier fil et seulement 25g de l'autre... Comment avoir assez de laine pour crocheter l'ensemble du bonnet avec 2 fils ? ou uniquement pour la bordure ? Et aussi je n'ai jamais crocheté avec 2 fils en même temps sur le crochet? une vidéo qui montre cela ? Merci

13.12.2019 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Delphine, le métrage de ces 2 pelotes est différent: 100 m pour 50 g en Karisma et 210 m environ pour 25 g en Kid-Silk; il vous faudra donc 2 pelotes Karisma = 200 m environ et 1 seule de Kid-Silk = 210 m environ, soit le même métrage des 2 laines. Pour crocheter avec 2 laines ensemble, prenez un fil de chaque pelote et crochetez comme s'il n'y en avait qu'une seule. Bon crochet!

16.12.2019 - 09:45

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej. Hvis den største størrelse er lige lille nok, hvor mange masker kan jeg så lave den i?

15.01.2019 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, du kan evt vælge at hækle med ½ nummer større... God fornøjelse!

17.01.2019 - 08:32

country flag Mona Andersen wrote:

Hvilken af de foreslåede garntyper Karisma eller Lima er blødest mod huden?

30.03.2018 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona, de er faktisk lige bløde, men DROPS Karisma er superwashbehadlet og kan vaskes i maskine :)

04.04.2018 - 13:28

country flag Gadine wrote:

Bonjour, ma question a été posée par Rita en anglais mais je ne parviens pas à comprendre la réponse alors je la pose en français..... Je ne comprends pas l'histoire des marqueurs: au rang 14, on doit disposer les marqueurs tous les 13/14/15 brides selon la taille. Puis pour les tours suivants, doit-on continuer à utiliser un espace de 13/14/15 brides entre les marqueurs ou doit-on adapter? merci d'avance pour votre réponse, et encore merci pour ce site fabuleux ;)

22.02.2017 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gadine, laissez les marqueurs en place et diminuez tous les tours à gauche de chaque marqueur (= après chaque marqueur). À chaque nouveau tour, vous aurez 1 B en moins entre chaque marqueur. Bon crochet!

22.02.2017 - 17:38

country flag Hengelmann wrote:

Bonjour ... La chaînette de base avec le nombre de mailles indiquées est bien trop petite pour un tour de tête adulte et obtenir le même effet que sur la photo. je ne peux faire ce modèle et j'ai acheté tout le matériel pour rien Je suis très déçue

28.11.2016 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hengelmann, la chaînette de base est légèrement plus serrée pour que le bonnet puisse bien tenir sur la tête - pensez bien à vérifier et à conserver la bonne tension, soit 14 B = 10 cm. Bon crochet!

28.11.2016 - 15:24

country flag PILLET wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai monté ma chaînette. Lorsque je regarde si le tour n'est pas trop serré je ne peux pas le mettre pourtant mon tour de tete est de 53 cm. Si je mets 69 m sur ma chaînette qui est assez lâché. Ça ne passe pas. Dois je augmenter le nombre de maille? Merci

24.10.2015 - 22:09

PILLET answered:

Bonjour. J'ai réussi à faire une chaînette de bonne dimension. Mon message précédent n'est plus d'actualité. Merci

25.10.2015 - 14:24

country flag Suzanne Bosch wrote:

Ik heb een vraag. Na toer 13 heb ik 95 stk (maat s/m). Nu moet ik deze verdelen in 7 delen door tussen elke markeerder 14 stk. te plaatsen. Maar dit komt niet uit. Nadat ik 6 markeerders heb geplaatst hou ik 11 stk over en niet 14. Wat gaat er fout?

09.10.2015 - 00:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Susanne. Ik zie helaas een foutje in de vertaling. Je moet de markeerders plaatsen afwisselend met 13 en 14 stk. Ik heb het patroon aangepast.

09.10.2015 - 14:40