DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 4.15 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.55CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Glory

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-1
DROPS design: Pattern no u-728
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-116-128-138 cm / 34 5/8''-37¾''-41''-45¾''-50 3/8''-54¼''
Full length: 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
850-900-1000-1100-1200-1350 g color no 65, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm /US 4 - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 522: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 4.15 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 70.55CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker/A.3 as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, P 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after marker/A.3 as follows: P 2 tog.

PATTERN 1:
See diagrams A.1-A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

PATTERN 2:
P 7-7-8-8-9-10, A.3, P 7-7-8-8-9-10.

PATTERN 3:
P 4-5-6-6-7-8, A.3, P 4-5-6-6-7-8.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 31, 39 and 47 cm / 12 1/4",15 1/4",18½"
SIZE M: 31, 39 and 47 cm / 12 1/4",15 1/4",18½"
SIZE L: 31, 39 and 47 cm / 12 1/4",15 1/4",18½"
SIZE XL: 32, 40 and 48 cm / 12½",15 3/4",19"
SIZE XXL: 32, 40 and 48 cm / 12½",15 3/4",19"
SIZE XXL: 32, 40 and 48 cm / 12½",15 3/4",19"
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 306-318-334-378-398-418 sts (includes 8 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 44 sts evenly = 350-362-378-422-442-462 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Then work from RS AT THE SAME TIME insert 2 markers and 0-0-0-4-4-4 strands in the piece as follows: Work 8 band sts in garter st, A.2, PATTERN 2 – see explanation above, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1st marker, P 8-9-9-9-9-9, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.1, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.2, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 8-9-9-9-9-9, insert 2nd marker, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, insert 1 strand in size XL-XXL-XXXL, P 0-0-0-8-9-10, A.5, pattern 2, A.4, P 14-16-16-16-16-16, A.5, pattern 2, A.1, 8 band sts in garter st. Move the markers and strands upwards when working. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work K over K sts between cables from WS, i.e. P sts seen from RS. Continue pattern like this. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

When piece measures 8-10-10-10-10-10 cm / 4'', dec as follows:
Dec in every section with 14-16-16-16-16-16 P sts by working as follows: P 2 tog, P 10-12-12-12-12-12, P 2 tog (= 10 sts dec in total). Repeat this dec every 5-4-4-4-4-4 cm / 2"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1½" 6-7-7-7-7-7 more times. NOTE: On last dec work the remaining 2 P tog.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-10-10-10-10-10 cm / 3"-4"-4"-4"-4"-4'', dec as follows:
Dec 1 st after 1st marker and 1 st before 2nd marker - see DECREASE TIP.
Repeat this dec every 6-4½-4½-4½-4½-4½ cm / 2 3/8"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" 5-6-6-6-6-6 more times.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'', dec as follows in pattern 2:
Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 (= 16 sts dec). Repeat this dec every 10-20-20-20-20-20 cm / 4"-8"-8"-8"-8" 2-1-1-1-1-1 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME in size XL-XXL-XXXL dec as follows at every strand:
Dec 1 st by working the 2 P sts closes to A.3 P tog (= 4 sts dec). Repeat this dec every 20 cm / 8'' 1 more time.

When all dec are done, there are 225-241-257-293-313-333 sts on needle. There are now 2 P st at markers in the sides and 1 P st between A.4 and A.5 and between A.1 and A.2 and 4-5-6-6-7-8 P sts on each side of A.3.

When piece measures 44 cm / 17 1/4", adjust so that next row is from RS, inc as follows: 8 band sts in garter st, A.2, PATTERN 3 – see explanation above, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 1 YO, P 2, 1 YO, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.1, P 1, A.2, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 1 YO, P 2, 1 YO, A.3 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, P 0-0-0-6-7-8, A.5, pattern 3, A.4, P 1, A.5, pattern 3, A.1, 8 band sts in garter st (= 4 sts inc). K YOs twisted on next row to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 6th-6th-6th-12th-10th-12th row 5-5-5-3-4-4 more times = 249-265-281-309-333-353 sts. Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS.

When piece measures 58-59-60-61-62-63 cm / 22¾''-23¼''-23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8''-24¾'', divide the piece, finish front and back pieces separately as follows: Slip the first and last 66-70-74-81-87-92 sts on a stitch holder for front pieces, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 117-125-133-147-159-169 sts (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
Now bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 1-1-1-3-4-4 times and 1 st 1-1-1-4-4-5 times = 105-113-121-121-129-137 sts. Then dec on next row from RS as follows: Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 0-1-1-1-1-1 time = 105-105-113-113-121-129 sts. When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm / 28¾''-29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾'', dec 5 sts over A.1 and 5 sts over A.2 by working 2 and 2 sts K tog = 95-95-103-103-111-119 sts on needle. Then bind off the middle 25-25-27-27-29-31 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 35-35-38-38-41-44 sts remain on each shoulder. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½'', dec 3 sts over every A.4 and A.5 (= 9 sts dec) = 26-26-29-29-32-35 sts remain on needle. Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 66-70-74-81-87-92 sts. Now bind off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts 1-1-1-3-4-4 times and 1 st 1-1-1-4-4-5 times = 60-64-68-68-72-76 sts.
Then dec on next row from RS as follows: Dec 1 st before A.3 and 1 st after A.3 0-1-1-1-1-1 time = 60-60-64-64-68-72 sts on needle. When piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½'', dec 5 sts over A.2 by working 2 and 2 sts K tog and 3 sts over every A.4 and A.5 = 46-46-50-50-54-58 sts. Then bind off the first 26-26-29-29-32-35 sts for shoulder, work the rest of row = 20-20-21-21-22-23 sts. Then work shawl collar in garter st over the remaining sts, beg mid front (1st row = RS) as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 12-12-13-13-14-15 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm / 3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''-3½''-4''-4'' at the shortest. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Dec 5 sts over A.1 instead of A.2. Shawl collar beg from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 5 sts = 53-55-57-59-59-61 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work as follows: P 4-5-6-7-7-8, A.4, P 33, A.5, finish with P 4-5-6-7-7-8. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. On next round move A.4 and A.5 1 st towards the middle as follows: P 4-5-6-7-7-8, 1 YO, A.4, P 2 tog, P 29, P 2 tog, A.5, 1 YO, finish with P 4-5-6-7-7-8. P YO twisted on next round. Move A.4 and A.5 towards the middle 1 st every other round until 1 st remains between A.4 and A.5. Piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾''. Continue to work P and A.4/A.5 with 1 P st between until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-7/8"-7/"-3/4"-½" 9-10-12-13-16-17 more times = 73-77-83-87-93-97 sts. When piece measures 49-49-47-47-46-43 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-18½"-18"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: bind off 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-57-56-57-56-55 cm/22"-22½"-22"-22½"-22"-21½", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts over every cable. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 57-58-57-58-57-56 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-22½"-22 3/4"-22½"-22". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to left band.

SHAPING:
Moisten piece and place it on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to measurements. Leave to dry.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.09.2016
BODY When all dec are done, there are 225-241-257-293-313-333 sts on needle. There are now 2 P st at markers in the sides and 1 P st between A.4 and A.5 and between A.1 and A.2 and 4-5-6-6-7-8 P sts on each side of A.3.
Updated online: 19.01.2017
SLEEVE: ..bind off 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-57-56-57-56-55 cm/22"-22½"-22"-22½"-22"-21½", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts over every cable. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 57-58-57-58-57-56 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-22½"-22 3/4"-22½"-22". Make another sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2, psso the 2 K sts
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle
symbols = slip 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = this st has been bound off
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (296)

country flag Desiree De Koeijer wrote:

Sorry ,al eerder gevraagd om dit patroon als trui te breien zou t dan graag op de rondbreinaald rond willen breien , ipv heen en weer , moet ik dan nog met iets speciaals rekening houden ? mvg Desiree

22.01.2024 - 21:42

country flag Desiree De Koeijer wrote:

Sorry ,al eerder gevraagd om dit patroon als trui te breien zou t dan graag op de rondbreinaald rond willen breien , ipv heen en weer , moet ik dan nog met iets speciaals rekening houden ? mvg Desiree

22.01.2024 - 21:41

country flag Anita wrote:

In der Anleitung steht, dass der 1. Markierungsfaden VOR den 9 Maschen angelegt werden soll…. Im Abnahmetipp steht dass 2 Maschen VOR der Markierung links zusammen gestrickt werden müssen. Das würde ja bedeuten, dass ich im Diagramm A4 diese 2 Maschen abnehmen müsste. … was glaube ich, nicht richtig ist oder?

28.11.2022 - 10:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, nein, Sie müssen hier die linke Maschen abnehmen, nicht die Maschen von den Diagrammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 11:24

country flag Anita wrote:

Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Was ist mit der Abnahme, es wäre lieb, wenn Sie mir diesbezüglich auch noch antworten und Helfen können 😊. Herzliche Grüße

28.11.2022 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, es wird wie unter ABNAHMETIPP:, abgenommen, dh bei der 1. Abnahme: 7 M li, 2 M li zs vor der Markierung / 2 M li zs, 7 M li nach der Markierung; bei der nächsten Abnahmen stricken Sie: 6 M li, 2 M li zs vor der Markierung / 2 M li zs, 6 M li nach der Markierung. Oder misverstehe ich Ihre Frage? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 10:34

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo, das erste mit den Maschen bei A3 habe ich gelöst. Was ich nicht verstehe ist die Abnahme bei 10 cm in Größe M. In dieser Größe sind die markierer bei den 9 Maschen angebracht und nicht vor oder nach A3. Ist das richtig? … und wenn ja müsste ich innerhalb der 9 Maschen abnehmen oder? Und wenn das nicht richtig ist, bin ich dankbar für eine Erklärung. Vielen Dank!!!

27.11.2022 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, ja genau, diese Abnahmen entstehen in den 9 linken Maschen nach A.3 und vor A.3 - siehe ABNAHMETIPP:, dh die linke Maschen nehmen Sie ab, nicht die Maschen von A.3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 10:12

country flag Anita wrote:

Hallo, ich habe Probleme bei A3. Wenn ich die Hinreihe gestrickt habe, habe ich 2 Maschen dicht beieinander. Wie wird das auf der Rückseite gestrickt? Von den 2 dicht beieinander liegenden Maschen die erste stricken, dann einen Umschlag und dann die zweite stricken, so dass ich wieder 3 Maschen habe? Das irritiert mich, weil es nicht so aussieht wie auf dem Bild. Oder mache ich etwas falsch? Vielen Dank für deine Hilfe 🌻😊

25.11.2022 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, ja genauso wird A.3 gestrickt. 1. Reihe (Hin-R): 1 M wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 2 M re, die abgehobene M über die 2 Rechts-M ziehen, 2. Reihe (Rück-R): 1 M li, 1 Umschlag, 1 M li; 3. Reihe: 3 M re, 4. Reihe: 4 M li. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 08:46

country flag Anna wrote:

Hallo, ich habe mir die Anleitung durchgelesen und denke, dass es grundsätzlich kein Problem sein dürfte. Dennoch muss ich etwas übersehen haben, weil ich die Zunahmen für den Schalkragen bis zur Schulterabnahme nicht finde. Wie komme ich von 8 M auf 21 (Größe L). Eigentlich müssten diese Zunahmen doch bei der Beschreibung des Vorderteils stehen. Ich muss sie in der umfangreichen Beschreibung überlesen haben.

19.09.2022 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, wenn alle Abnahmen gestrickt sind, sind es nur noch 50 Maschen übrig, dann ketten Sie die 29 Maschen für den Schulter = es sind 21 Maschen übrig (einsch. die 8 Blenden-Maschen), diese 21 Maschen stricken Sie jetzt kraus rechts miti verkürzten Reihen für den Schalkragen. Also nicht nur die 8 Blenden-Maschen werden krausrechts gestrickt aber alle die übrigen 21 Maschen vom Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.09.2022 - 09:41

country flag Berita wrote:

Welke maat heeft dit model. Dank

28.08.2022 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Berita,

Je kunt dit model in 6 maten breien, van S tot en met XXL. De reeks getallen die je steeds ziet correspondeert met de reeks maten. Dus het eerste getal geldt voor maat S, het tweede getal geldt voor maat M, enzovoorts.

31.08.2022 - 13:49

country flag Karen Bice wrote:

Before I start this, what is the A1, A2, A3 and the parts id the pattern they address? I thought they signified DIFFERENT patterns but I still haven't figured if they are the next steps,cables, or what.....would be more helpful if there was some type of explanation of what they were somewhere.

03.01.2022 - 00:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Karen, You will find the diagrams corresponding to each pattern at the bottom of the page. Happy knitting!

03.01.2022 - 07:40

country flag Desiree De Koeijer wrote:

Hallo zou ik dit ook als trui kunnen breien ? het voorpand net als achterpand ? en hoeveel materiaal heb ik dan nodig ? bvd Desiree

17.11.2021 - 23:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Desiree,

Ja, dat zou kunnen. Je hebt dan ongeveer dezelfde hoeveelheid materiaal nodig. Voor de zekerheid kun je een extra bol bestellen, als je de hals aan de voorkant ook hoger wilt maken.

23.11.2021 - 12:45