DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 156-55
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-162
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
To fit foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – for rib edge

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show the pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 twisted tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

SEED ST:
Row/round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure in the middle of cable in A.1/A.3.
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SLIPPER:
Worked back and forth from mid back.
Cast on 33-33-35 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal (let the yarn end be approx. 20 cm / 8"; used for assembly). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 4 sts evenly = 37-37-39 sts. Then work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3 (= 8 sts), 13-13-15 sts SEED ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 8 sts), finish with P 4. Continue the pattern like this, work P sts K from WS. Repeat A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 10½-11½-13 cm / 4¼''-4½"-5" – see MEASURING TIP above, work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3, 13-13-15 sts seed st, A.1, P 4, cast on 4 new sts, work the first 4 sts, round beg here = 41-41-43 sts. Now work piece in the round on double pointed needles. Work pattern as before but now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over the 4 P sts in each side of piece and the 4 new sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm / 6¾''-7½"-8¾". Now work in stockinette st over sts in A.a, or start stockinette st a bit earlier. Continue A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.3 but insert 1st marker between 1st and 2nd st and 2nd marker between 7th and 8th st in A.3, work seed st as before, work A.1 but insert 3rd marker between 1st and 2nd st and 4th marker between 7th and 8th st in A.1, K the remaining sts (= 14 sts on top of foot, 15-15-17 sts under foot and 6 sts in each side of piece).

Now dec for toe on next round as follows: Dec 1 st after 2nd marker and 1 st before 3rd marker under foot 0-0-1 time in total – READ DECREASE TIP above, work the remaining sts = 14 sts on top of foot and 15 sts under foot (= 41 sts in total). On next round, dec as follows: Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 dec in total). Repeat dec every round 6 times in total AT THE SAME TIME on last dec work cable sts in A.1 and A.3 as follows: K 2 twisted tog, K 2 tog. After all dec there are 13 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 20-22-25 cm / 8''-8¾"-9¾". Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold cast-on edge double (= mid back), use yarn end from beg to sew neatly tog mid back.

EDGE:
Work edge in the round on double pointed needles around the opening on slipper. Pick up 50-50-54 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Nepal. P 1 round. Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 60-60-64 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 12-13-14 cm / 4¾''-5"-5½". Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Fold the edge double.

Knit another slipper.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P/K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P/K 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (162)

country flag Judith wrote:

Where the pattern says "Work as follows from right side; p4, A3,, 13/13/15 moss st, A1, p4, then says cast o 4 new sts, work the 1st 4sts..........I'm not sure which way the 4 newly cast on stitches are worked. Is it P4, A3, 13/13/15moss (or seed ), A1, P4, then the new cast on 4 are either knit or purl?

16.10.2019 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judith, the 4 new stitches will be now the middle 4 stitches in A.2, after you have join in the round, purl the next 4 stitches (= the first 4 sts at the beg of previous row), then work A.3, moss st, A.1 as before, then over the next P4 + 4 new sts + next P4 = work A.2. Happy knitting!

17.10.2019 - 09:21

country flag Judith Jeffery wrote:

I'm about to try this pattern for the first time; I've been knitting for more than 40 years , but have never tried knitting from a diagram like this, and have never come across a pattern written as a solid paragraph, so....absolutely no disrespect intended.....but far from being easy, it looks one of the most difficult patterns I've ever come across! This is going to be a real test, will let you know how I get on!

13.10.2019 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Judith thank you for your note. In our experience diagrams are better, because you can see not only the actual stitch or row, but also how the stitches and rows above each otherrelate to each other, also they are universal, can be decipehered in almot any language. HERE is a DROPS lesson that might help you to use/ read diagrams more easily. Happy Knitting!

13.10.2019 - 13:49

country flag Ylva wrote:

Jeg holder på å strikke a. 2 diagrammet. Jeg ser at det ikke er noen forklaring til flettingen på linje 11,13,15 og 17. Det er bare forklaring på flettingen på a. 1, a. 3 og den nederste delen av a. 3. Hvordan strikker jeg den øverste delen?

30.09.2019 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ylva, Når du har strikket A.2 en gang, så fortsætter du med A.a over de midterste 12 masker. God fornøjelse!

02.10.2019 - 11:22

country flag Britt Fischer wrote:

Sticka 2 m vridna tills, 2 m räta tills Så står det i mönstret. Vad menar ni med 2 m vridna tills?

17.09.2019 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britt, Se hur du gör i vår video

How to decrease by knitting 2 stitches together (K2tog) from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

18.09.2019 - 10:03

country flag Jean Sweezie wrote:

I have always had trouble reading the Drops patterns because they are all written in one paragraph. However, I tried picking up the wording of the pattern and dropping it into a word file, and was able to increase the line height and put paragraphs where I wanted them, and this worked perfectly. Such an interesting pattern.

13.09.2019 - 15:58

country flag Dorothy Davis wrote:

Thank you for answering my question. I got another one for you, I am starting the A.2 & I am on the 3rd row. What does it mean when your doing the part with the cable needle P/K1. Do it mean p & k in the same stitch. Sorry if my country show something else before, I just noticed this. I am from Canada.

13.08.2019 - 23:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davis, when working the cables you will have to work the stitches on the side of the cable either P or K depending on the next row in diagram. The stitches on either side of the cable are purled and the stitches in the middle of the cables are worked in moss stitch, ie either K or P. Happy knitting!

14.08.2019 - 08:05

country flag Dorothy Davis wrote:

In the graph you make the 1st cable on the 5th row. Then you do 3 rows, so I go back to the beginning & do 4 more rows before I do another cable. So that would be 7 rows before another cable. Waiting to hear back from you before I continue on.

13.08.2019 - 03:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davis, you are right, there should be then 7 rows between each cable in A.1 and A.3. Happy knitting!

13.08.2019 - 08:25

country flag Rachel wrote:

These are lovely. Thank you.

11.08.2019 - 19:36

country flag Louise Ranger wrote:

J'aimerais avoir le patron en français svp, merci

30.07.2019 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonsoir Louise. Ici vous trouvez les explications en français . Bon tricot!

30.07.2019 - 19:16

country flag Loretta wrote:

What weight is this yarn? I have both fingering and DK weight yak wool, but your yarn converter doesn’t say how heavy this is. My DK weight is a 4-ply. Thanks!

18.06.2019 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Loretta, DROPS Nepal is aran/worsted - read more about this yarn here - please find your DROPS retailer here. Happy knitting!

19.06.2019 - 06:56