DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Shining Star

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-18
DROPS design: Pattern no me-069
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
550-650-700-750-800-900 g colour no 08, light beige

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 14 tr = width 10 cm, or to get A.2 = width 7.5 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Work 83-87-93-101-111-121 ch on hook size 5 mm with Merino Extra Fine.
Then work as follows from RS: Work A.1 – see explanation above, over the first 8 ch, NOTE: Replace 1st tr with 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO above, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch, A.3 over the next 5 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1, A.2, A.3, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch and A.3.
Then repeat A.z vertically until finished measurements.

NOTE: On 1st row in A.z (= from WS) work as follows: Work A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 tr, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), 1 dc in next st,
A.3, A.2, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 tr, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), 1 dc in next st, A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width and A.1. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

When piece measures approx. 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm, adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z - cut the yarn. Then work sleeves as follows: Work 29 loose ch, beg from WS and continue A.3, A.2 and A.1 and tr over back piece as before and finish with 31 loose ch, turn piece. Now work 1st row in A.1-A.3 over ch from RS, AT THE SAME TIME continue with pattern over back piece as before (i.e. work 4th row in A.z over these sts) as follows:

Work 1 tr in each of the first 6 ch, A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 2 times in width (i.e. work last A.2 over the last 5 ch, then work the rest of A.2 over A.1), work A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width as before, A.3, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 tr, A.1, A.2, A.3, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 tr, A.1, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, then work A.2 2 times in width (i.e. work the first A.2 over A.3 and the next 6 ch), A.3 over the next 5 ch and 1 tr in each of the last 6 ch. Continue this pattern until piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm - adjust to finish after a row from WS. Then finish each shoulder/sleeve separately as follows:

RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work 6 tr, A.1 1 time and A.2 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, A.3, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 tr. Turn and work pattern as before. Continue like this until piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm in total, adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z. Fasten off.

LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
Work the left shoulder/sleeve the same way but reversed, work A.1 instead of A.3 at beg of row.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Work 63-65-70-74-81-86 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 ch (= band), A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 over the next 12 ch, A.3 over the next 5 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4-6-9-13-6-11 ch, A.1 over the next 8 ch, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-24-24 ch, A.3 over the last 5 ch. Then repeat A.z vertically until finished measurements.

NOTE: On 1st row in A.z (= from WS) work as follows: Work A.3, A.2 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in width, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 tr),1 dc in next st, 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-7-11-4-9 tr, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), A.3, A.2, A.1, 3 ch (replace 1 tr), 1 dc in next st, 1 tr in each of the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 tr.

When piece measures approx. 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm, adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z. Cut the yarn. Then work 29 loose ch for sleeve and continue as on back piece. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z (i.e. last row is from RS) - cut the yarn. Then work shawl collar.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Work shawl collar back and forth, beg from RS as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 6-6-8-8-10-10 tr, 1 tr in first tr on A.1, * 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 tr in next tr, * 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 tr in last tr in A.3, 0-0-0-1-1-1 tr in next tr = 27-27-29-30-32-32 tr.
Then work short rows over band sts as follows:
ROW 1 (WS): 5 dc, 5 htr, 17-17-19-20-22-22 tr
ROW 2 (RS): Work 1 tr in each of the 27-27-29-30-32-32 sts.
Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures approx. 10 cm on the most narrow part – adjust to finish with 2nd row (RS).
Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Work according to diagram A.3 instead of A.1 at beg of row. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm, adjust to finish with 2nd row in A.z, work as before over front piece from WS, then work 31 loose ch for sleeve. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, adjust to finish with a whole repetition of A.z (i.e. last row is from RS), work shawl collar. NOTE: There is no need to cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Place front pieces on top of back piece and work the shoulders as follows: 1 dc through both layers, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* along the entire shoulder/sleeve and finish with 1 dc. Work the sides tog as follows: 1 dc, * 3 ch, 1 dc in ch-space on next row *, repeat from *-* along the entire side and finish with 1 dc. Work tog under sleeves as follows: * 1 dc in ch in next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc. Work collor tog mid back as follows: 1 dc *1 ch, 1 dc in st*, repeat from *-*. Sew the collor to the neck.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.09.2014
ASSEMBLY:...Work collor tog mid back as follows: 1 dc*1 ch, 1 dc in st*, repeat from *-*. Sew the collor to the neck.
Updated online: 22.01.2016
It is added: 1 dc in next st, two places under NOTE (under BACK PIECE + RIGHT FRONT PIECE).

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st in st
symbols = 1 sl st around ch-space
symbols = 1 tr around ch-space
symbols = 1 tr in st
symbols = work 1 tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next st but now pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook
symbols = work 1 tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next st, but wait the last pull through, work 1 tr in next st but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (199)

Zoe wrote:

Si eso es los que quiero saber. Las instrucciones no me dicen cuando tengo que meter los 13 puntos altos que dice el patron y despues al querer seguir las puntadas que siguen no encajan y se descompone el patron. Ojala' me explique' mejor ahora. Al seguir el patron no sigue como en el dibujo. Gracias

31.05.2018 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Zoe. Lo primero, cuando escribes una pregunta tienes que marcar la pestaña "pregunta", no "general". Los 13 puntos no están incluidos en el diagrama, se trabajan sobre los puntos de cadeneta entre los diagramas A.3 y A.1, pero están incluidos en el número total de puntos.

10.06.2018 - 10:36

Zoe wrote:

Favor de decirme si existe una instruccion para el patron 157-18? El que ensenan aqui no tiene los 13 puntos que dice mi patron. Como los meto para seguir las instrucciones del patron 157-18 ? Gracias.

25.05.2018 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Zoe. ¿Puedes especificar tu pregunta? ¿Te refieres al diagrama? ¿Los 13 puntos altos (para la talla) que están entre los A.3 y A.1?

29.05.2018 - 12:15

country flag Zoe wrote:

I'm trying to make this sweater but how do I finish the first row? It says to do Az and I only have 11 chains left?

25.05.2018 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Zoe, you work A.1, A.2 and A.3 as stated before in width and work A.z in height (= there are 4 rows in A.z in height). Happy crocheting!

25.05.2018 - 09:33

country flag Lyn Buttineau wrote:

Why are the number of chains different when starting the sleeve extentions, 29 on the first side and 31 on the second side? Does this make one sleeve shorter than the other?

10.05.2018 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Buttineau, you beg next round with 1 dc in each of the first 6 ch but the 3 turning ch (= 1st dc) are already worked, so that you will start row with 1 dc in the 4th chain from hook (= 2 dc), and 1 dc in each of the next 4 chains (= 4 dc) = there are now 6 dc at the beg of round, including the 3 turning chains. At the end of row, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 6 chains. Happy crocheting!

11.05.2018 - 08:00

country flag Carol wrote:

After row 2 do you still have to chain 3 before doing either 4 or 6 dc. In row 5 does the pattern stitch (graph) replace one of the dc at either end of the stitch sequence.

13.04.2018 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, the 3 ch in 2nd rown in diagram (= 1st row in A.z) will be worked only on this row ro replace 1st dc - see video. Happy crocheting!

16.04.2018 - 08:38

Pearl B. Spodick wrote:

If the instructions are available for left-handed crocheters, I'm very interested as a self-taught crocheter. Usually I just do the instructions and it comes out fine.

01.04.2018 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pearl, we are sorry, but we don't have instrucions for left handed crafters. Each of us knits/crochet differently, and that is especially true for left handed persons. Some works like the mirror image of right handed work, others use special movements and/or tricks to make it work for them. However, it does not matter as long as it comes out looking as it should. Happy Crocheting!

01.04.2018 - 18:55

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

This is such a lovely pattern. I hope to make it soon.

28.02.2018 - 16:49

country flag Jean wrote:

Can the pattern be written out instead of having to follow the graph.

27.02.2018 - 03:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jean, we are sorry, but most of our patterns comes in charts /diagrams. It is well worth to learn how to read charts, they are visually more helpful. Also, don't forget that you can always ask for help to make sense of the patterns in person in the store you bought your DROPS pattern from. Happy crafting!

27.02.2018 - 09:07

country flag Maida wrote:

Ich glaube Sie verstehen mich falsch. Im Video ist deutlich zu sehen dass nach der kleinsten Größe gearbeitet wird. in der allerersten Reihe werden nach A3 4 Stb gemacht und in der 2 Reihe (erste Reihe von A.z) werden 2 Stb gemacht. So wie es auch in der Anleitung steht. Aber in den nächsten Reihen sind es wieder 4 Stb und das ist eben in der Anleitung nirgends zu sehen.

16.02.2018 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maida, die Einteilung mit den 4 Stb zwischen den Musterrapporten bleibt die ganze Zeit gleich, nur in der 1. R von A.Z werden das erste und das letzte dieser 4 Stb durch jeweils 3 Lm ersetzt. In den nachfolgenden Reihen von A.Z sind es dann wieder 4 Stb, so wie es für die allererste Reihe beschrieben ist.

16.02.2018 - 21:39

country flag Maida wrote:

Nochmal ich. Tut mir Leid dass ich so viele Fragen habe. Mir kommt vor es fehlt ein Teil in der Anleitung. Und zwar immer die Stb zwischen den Diagrammen A1 bis A3. Im Video wird mit der kleinsten Größe gearbeitet: 1R. A1 - A3, 4 Stb, A1 - A3, ... 2R. A3 - A1, (laut schriftlicher Anleitung) 2 Stb in die mittleren Stb 3R. A1 - A3, (nur im Video zu sehen)1 Stb um den LM-Bogen, 2 Stb in die M, 1 Stb um den LM-Bogen 4R. A3 - A1,(nur im Video zu sehen) 4 Stb

15.02.2018 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maida, m Video wird es mit A.1 angefangen und A.3 enden (wie man die Diagramme häkelt) aber Sie müssen wie in der Anleitung häkeln, dh bei der 1. Reihe (= Rückreihe) von links nach rechts lesen, dh mit A.3 anfangen - und mit nur 2 Stb in der 1. Größe (4 Stb zwischen Diagramme werden in die 2. Größe gehäkelt). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

16.02.2018 - 09:31