DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Stroll

Knitted DROPS poncho with hood and vent, worked top down in ”Alaska”. Size: S -XXXL

DROPS 157-37
DROPS design: Pattern no x-405
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
600-750-900 g colour no 03, light grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SILVER ANTIQUE BUTTON NO 533: 1 piece for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new sts in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonhole when piece measures approx. 2 cm from cast-on edge.
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PONCHO:
Poncho and hood are worked separately and sewn tog at the end.
The poncho is worked top down. Work back and forth until vent mid front is done, then work in the round until vents in each side beg, then work front and back piece back and forth.
Cast on 92-102-112 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row in last ridge (= RS) inc 30-32-34 sts evenly = 122-134-146 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Then work as follows from mid front: 3 band sts in garter st, 8-10-12 sts in stocking st, insert 1st marker here, A.2 (= 13 sts), insert 2nd marker here, 13-15-17 sts in stocking st, insert 3rd marker here, A.2, insert 4th marker here, 22-26-30 sts in stocking st, insert 5th marker here, A.2, insert 6th marker here, 13-15-17 sts in stocking st, insert 7th marker here, A.2, insert 8th marker here, 8-10-12 sts in stocking st, 3 band sts in garter st.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc on each side of every repetition of A.2 – READ INCREASE TIP! NOTE: Inc differently on front and back piece and on side pieces:
Inc as follows before 1st and 5th marker and after 4th and 8th marker: Every other row 5-6-7 times, every 4th row/round 4-6-9 times and every 6th round 6-6-4 times.
Inc as follows before 3rd and 7th marker and after 2nd and 6th marker: Every other row 7-8-9 times, every 4th row/round 9-10-11 times and every 6th round 2-2-2 times. When inc are done, there are 254-286-314 sts on round. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11 cm in total, the vent mid front is done and work in the round as follows: Work until first repetition of A.2 (= beg of round), work the round in the round as before with pattern and inc until the 3 sts in garter st before vent mid front, then work 6 sts in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle – see explanation above, over the 3 sts in garter st on each side of vent. Continue like this until there are 2 ridges under vent.

Then continue with stocking st, inc and A.2 until piece measures 34-36-38 cm in total. Now work as follows from beg of round: * A.2, 21-24-27 sts in stocking st, 7 sts in garter st, 21-24-27 sts in stocking st *, A.2, stocking st until next A.2, repeat from *-*, A.2, work the rest of round in stocking st. Continue like this until there are 2 ridges on each side piece, AT THE SAME TIME on last round cast off the middle sts of the 7 sts in garter st in each side (= 6 sts in garter st remain), work until cast off st in the side = 252-284-312 sts on round. Then finish front and back piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
Turn piece and work as follows from WS: 3 sts in garter st, stocking st over the next 21-24-27 sts, A.2 as before, stocking st over the next 52-62-70 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-0-1 st, work A.2, 21-24-27 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st = 127-142-157 sts. When piece measures 41-43-45 cm, work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.1 until 4 sts remain, K 1 (= 1st st in A.1), 3 sts in garter st. Continue like this back and forth until piece measures 48-50-52 cm in total. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece. Adjust length according to front piece.

HOOD:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 92-102-112 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-1-0 sts evenly on last row = 100-103-112 sts. Then work as follows: 3 edge sts in garter st, A.1 (= 3 sts) until 4 sts remain, K 1, 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue like this until piece measures 30 cm. Work 1 ridge. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold hood and sew cast-off edge neatly tog st by st. Sew hood to poncho st by st. Sew the button on to left band 2 cm in from egde. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 01.09.2014
under ASSEMBLY:... Sew the button on to left band 2 cm in from edge. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Anne Helen Kaldestad wrote:

Forstår ikkje det med økningene. Skal det økes ved alle merker hver omgang? Kan du forklare nøyere?skjønte heller ikke det med 2. 4 og 6 omg

13.12.2023 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, Du tager ud på hver 2. omgang. Hvilken størrelse strikker du?

14.12.2023 - 08:23

country flag Tiphaine Lapierre wrote:

Bonjour, Lors du passage en circulaire, je ne comprends pas comment faire, au milieu du rang commencé en aller-retour, pour continuer en rond. Dois-je rebrousser chemin sur les mailles tricotées juste avant le placement du marqueur représentant le début du cercle ? Enfin y-a-t-il une importance à ce que je commence le circulaire sur l'endroit où l'envers du tricot ? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses !

08.04.2023 - 15:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lapierre, tricotez à l'endroit sur l'endroit jusqu'au 1er A.2 (mais ne tricotez pas encore ces mailles), mettez un marqueur ici pour repérer le début des tours, puis tricotez comme avant: A.2 et jersey endroit en tricotant au point mousse les 6 mailles sous la fente d'encolure. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 12:20

country flag Ännä wrote:

I do wish you showed more pictures! I know I could do this, if I could see the whole garment, but the written directions just hurt my eyes. Brains. Soul ;) Oh please, use more photos!!!

23.08.2022 - 07:06

country flag Paula wrote:

"Autumn Stroll" by Drops design 157-37 . I have completed the first four "ridges" and have increased the 30 sts. I am now at the section where it tells me to "work as follows from mid-front. What I don't understand is what it means when it says "3 band sts in garter sts...what is the "3 band sts"? I'm thinking that if this is a button band, it is usually done with 5 sts. I'm not sure what this means. Thank you!

15.03.2022 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Paula, In this pattern the bands are narrow (3 stitches in width). Happy knitting!

16.03.2022 - 07:43

country flag Carmen wrote:

Ich verstehe folgenden Abschnitt nicht. Muss ich beide Zunahme gleichzeitig in 1 Reihe machen? Wie folgt vor der 1. und der 5. Markierung und nach der 4. und der 8.Markierung zunehmen: in jeder 2. Reihe 5-6-7 x, in jeder 4.R/Runde 4-6-9 x, und in jeder 6.Runde 6-6-4 x. Wie folgt vor der 3.und 7.Markierung und nach der 2.und 6.Markierung zunehmen: in jeder 2. Reihe 7-8-9 x, in jeder 4.R/Runde 9-10-11 x und in jeder 6.Runde 2-2-2 x. Werd noch völlig irre... 😣

20.12.2020 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, je nach der Größe werden Sie entweder 4 Maschen oder 8 Maschen zunehmen, die Zunahmen zwischen den Markierernt werden mit einem unregelmäßigen Rythmus gearbeitet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.12.2020 - 08:00

country flag Carmen wrote:

Moin, ich verstehe Anleitung für die Zunahmen nicht... Kann mir dabei jemand helfen? Liebe Grüße aus dem hohen Norden Carmen

16.11.2020 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carmen, die Zunahmen werden unterschiedlich beim Vorder- und Rückenteil und bei den Ärmeln, dh je nach der Größe nehmen Sie entweder 8 Maschen oder 4 Maschen pro Zunahmenrunde - nehmen Sie in Ihre Grösse und zwischen den Markierungen wie unter TIPP ZUR ZUNAHME erklärt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.11.2020 - 16:22

country flag ROUVIER wrote:

En reponse a votre mail c'est l'explication tout entière qui me gêne. La taille est S/M

27.04.2020 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rouvier, lisez attentivement les explications et commencez à tricoter en les suivant scrupuleusement, bien souvent quand on a les mailles sur les aiguilles, toutes les choses prennent leur sens. Si vous bloquez ensuite à un moment précis, n'hésitez pas à revenir ici. Bon tricot!

27.04.2020 - 13:29

country flag Marie-Michele ROUVIER wrote:

Bonjour. Pour assez a l'aise en tricot j'ai du mal a suivre vos explications concernant ce modèle. Pourriez-vous m'aider s'il vous plait? D'avance merci

26.04.2020 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rouvier, vous pouvez poser votre question ici si vous le souhaitez, pensez à bien préciser la taille tricotée et le passage précis que vous ne comprenez pas. Bon tricot!

27.04.2020 - 09:25

country flag Christine Weir wrote:

Hello .....I'm at the stage where ive done the increses....then the pattern says continue with stocking stitch,inc and A2until piece measures 34 cm....does that mean there are more inc ?..... thank you christine

12.11.2019 - 23:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Weir, you increase as explained, but when piece measures 11 cm (= all increases are not finished) you now work in the round as explained, then continue as before with the increases until all increases are done (= there are 254-286-314 sts) and until piece measures 34-36-38 cm. Happy knitting!

13.11.2019 - 09:11

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Hallo! Waarschijnlijk ligt het eraan dat ik een beginner ben maar ik begrijp echt niets van de meerderingen, zelfs niet met de extra uitleg bij de vragen van andere vragen. Ik begrijp dat je telkens voor en na elke herhaling van A2 moet meerderen maar begrijp de frequentie niet. Om de naald meerderen begrijp ik, maar dan staat er ook elke 4e naald en elke 6e naald, maar dat is dan toch niet aan de goede kant? Alleszins, ik begrijp er geen snars van. Sorry!

01.08.2019 - 09:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Stefanie,

De meerderingen doe je aan de goede kant en dan meerder je 4 naalden later of 6 naalden later weer; dat is wat er wordt bedoeld met elke 4e of 6e naald. Je meerdert inderdaad steeds naast A.2.

11.08.2019 - 16:15