DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Autumn Getaway

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan, hood and textured pattern, worked top down in "Alpaca" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-3
DROPS design: Pattern no z-676
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-106-112-128-138 cm / 34½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-44"-50½"-54 1/4"
Full length: 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm / 28"-29"-30½"-31½"-32 3/4"-33½"


Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 501, light gray
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-175-175-200-225 g color no 20, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm /US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 5-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN 1:
See diagrams A.1-A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

PATTERN 2:
Row 1: K from RS.
Row 2: P from WS.
Row 3: K from RS.
Row 4: K from WS.
Row 5: K from RS.
Row 6: P from WS.
Repeat rows 1-6.

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements must be done when holding the piece up on needle.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K/P 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K/P 2 tog.
NOTE: Adjust dec according to pattern 2 whether st is worked P or K.


RAGLAN:
Inc 1 st before 1st-3rd-5th-7th marker and 1 st after 2nd-4th-6th-8th marker.
Inc as follows from RS: Work until marker, 1 YO. P YO twisted on next row.
Inc as follows from WS: Work until marker, 1 YO. K YO twisted on next row.
NOTE: Adjust YO on sleeve according to pattern 2 whether st is worked twisted P or K.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 4, 14, 24, 34 and 42 cm / 1½",5½",9½",13½",16½"
SIZE M: 2, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm / 3/4",4",7½",11",14½",18"
SIZE L: 2, 11, 20, 30, 40 and 50 cm / 3/4",4½",8",11 3/4",15 3/4",19 3/4"
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm / 3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",19 3/4"
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 19, 28, 37, 46 and 55 cm / 3/4",4",7½",11",14½",18",21½"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 39, 49 and 59 cm / 3/4",4½",8",11½",15 1/4",19 1/4",23 1/4"
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle.

HOOD:
Cast on 98-98-106-106-114-114 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work next row as follows: Work 6 sts in garter st, PATTERN 2 – see explanation above, until 6 sts remain, AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker after 49-49-53-53-57-57 sts, finish with 6 sts in garter st. When piece measures 26-26-27-27-28-28 cm / 10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-10½"-11"-11", dec 1 st on each side of marker – see DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 8th row 3 more times = 90-90-98-98-106-106 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Work until piece measures 38-38-39-39-40-40 cm / 15"-15"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"– READ MEASURING TIP, adjust so that last row is from WS. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 6-6-10-6-10-10 sts evenly = 84-84-88-92-96-96 sts. Work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 8-16-20-36-44-56 sts evenly = 92-100-108-128-140-152 sts. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. On next row insert 8 markers in the piece as follows: Work 6 band sts in garter st, 10-12-14-18-21-24 sts in stockinette st (= left front piece), insert 1st marker, work 4 sts in stockinette st, insert 2nd marker, 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts pattern 2 (= left sleeve), insert 3rd marker, work 4 sts in stockinette st, insert 4th marker, 20-24-28-36-42-48 sts in stockinette st (= back piece), insert 5th marker, 4 sts in stockinette st, insert 6th marker, 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts pattern 2 (= right sleeve), insert 7th marker, 4 sts in stockinette st, insert 8th marker, 10-12-14-18-21-24 sts in stockinette st and finish with 6 band sts in garter st (= right front piece). Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work sleeves in pattern 2 until finished measurements. Then inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above, as follows: Inc on every row 2-4-6-4-6-8 times, then inc on every row from RS 18-18-18-20-20-20 times = 252-276-300-320-348-376 sts. Piece now measures approx. 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''.

Now work next row as follows: Work the first 40-44-48-52-57-62 sts, slip the next 52-56-60-62-66-70 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the next 68-76-84-92-102-112 sts, slip the next 52-56-60-62-66-70 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 40-44-48-52-57-62 sts. There are now 160-176-192-208-228-248 sts on body. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Then work as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2, 62-70-78-86-96-106 sts in stockinette st, A.1, A.2, 31-35-39-43-48-53 sts in stockinette st, finish with 6 band sts in garter st. P sts in A.1/A.2 are displaced 1 st towards mid front/mid back on every row. When there are 10 sts in stockinette st between P sts in each side of piece, beg 1 new repetition of A.1/A.2 vertically. When A.1/A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue to displace P sts on every row until 1st P st meets band in each side of piece. Then work A.3 over A.1 and A.4 over A.2, i.e. now displace P sts towards the side, P sts in 3 are displaced 1 st on every row. When A.3/A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue to displace P sts on every row until they meet in the side. AT THE SAME TIME beg a new repetition of A.3/A.4 every 8th row towards mid front and mid back 3 times in total. When piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11''-11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15'', inc as follows from RS: Work in garter st and stockinette st as before until first P st, 1 YO, work pattern A.3/A.4 as before to and with last P st, 1 YO, work in stockinette st over back piece until first P st, 1 YO, work pattern A.3/A.4 as before to and with last P st, 1 YO, work in stockinette st and finish with 6 sts in garter st (= 4 sts inc). P YO twisted. Repeat inc every 5 cm / 2'' 2 more times = 172-188-204-220-240-260 sts. When last P sts meet in the side, continue piece in stockinette st with 6 band sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-59 cm / 19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 ¼'', switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work 6 ridges. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Continue with pattern 2 AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row cast on 6 new sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts) = 58-62-66-68-72-76 sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 3-3-2½-2½-2½-2½-2 cm / 1"-1"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 10-11-12-12-13-15 more times = 36-38-40-42-44-44 sts. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work 6 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above! bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Place the hood double and sew it tog at the top. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.11.2022
BODY:... Then work A.3 over A.1 and A.4 over A.2, i.e. now displace P sts towards the side, P sts in are displaced 1 st on every row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Monika Irk wrote:

Welchen Konfektionsgrößen entsprechen die angegebenen Größen?

22.10.2014 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, wenn Sie dem Hinweis "siehe Maße im Diagramm" hinter den Größenangaben folgen, finden Sie in der Maßskizze die einzelnen Maße, die zu den verschiedenen Größen gehören. Anhand dessen, im Abgleich mit Ihren Körpermaßen, können Sie die passende Größe auswählen. Das Wichtigste ist das Brustmaß, damit das Kleidungsstück nicht zu eng wird.

23.10.2014 - 10:31

country flag Monica wrote:

Hvor stort er garnforbruket i garngr C?

22.10.2014 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Her ser du hvordan du regner garnforbruget ud: Omregn garnmengde fra en kvalitet til en annen. Ved garnbytte brukes like mange meter garn, men ulik garnmengde. Ved forbruk av ex 300 gr - regn slik: GARN-A: 50 gr = 170 m: 300 gr = 6 nøster ganger 170 m = 1020 meter GARN-B: 50 gr = 150 m: 1020 m delt på 150 m = 6,8 nøster som tilsvarer 7 nøster = 350 gr.

23.10.2014 - 09:20

country flag Barbara wrote:

Vorrei realizzare questo modello con l'uncinetto e senza bottoni però non so come fare e se è possibile farlo, mi potreste aiutare? Grazie

20.10.2014 - 13:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Barbara. Purtroppo questo modello non può essere adattato alla lavorazione all'uncinetto. Al seguente link può trovare alcuni modelli all'uncinetto tra cui eventualmente sceglierne uno di suo gradimento. Buon lavoro!

20.10.2014 - 22:05

country flag Jeanette Eskildsen wrote:

Den er så utrolig flot, jeg er allerede gået i gang - Det bliver helt sikkert en af mine ynglings trøjer :o)

15.09.2014 - 19:33

country flag Jeanette Eskildsen wrote:

Den er så utrolig flot, jeg er allerede gået i gang - Det bliver helt sikkert en af mine ynglings trøjer :o)

15.09.2014 - 19:33

country flag Oph_E_Lie wrote:

Il donne envie de se lover dedans lors des froides journées d'hiver

29.06.2014 - 14:23

country flag Christina Inhammar wrote:

En skön och mysig tröja med luva som man bara vill krypa in i och gosa sig

20.06.2014 - 15:00

Melanie wrote:

Superbe, j'ai vraiment hâte de pouvoir le réaliser!

20.06.2014 - 10:45

country flag Malin wrote:

Myskofta, när man vill återfå värmen! Vill göra den!

17.06.2014 - 21:47

country flag Dorota wrote:

JEDYNY W SWOIM RODZAJU

08.06.2014 - 23:34